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Drain points - locations and tips on cleaning

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161K views 88 replies 37 participants last post by  jbanks15  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hello guys,

I am quite new here since I have only had my 230komp for about 3 weeks, but I have already benefitted a lot from all the great posts and advice here (both prior to and after the purchase of my car). Thanks a bunch fella's!!

While washing the marvel the other day I noticed that the drain plugs were clogged. I logged on here and sure enough, it seems to be a rather common issue. However, during my search for solutions I did not come across a post that summed up the drain locations and tips on cleaning each of them. I should mention though that I had great use of the post on how to clean the "rear window drain" with compressed air and a tube - that was the worst of them all.

Anyway, this post is an attempt to summarize the drain points on the 170 and share my experiences on cleaning them. I will focus only on the tubed drains which are designed to drain water to the ground (as opposed to alle the hollow rubber seals on these cars. I am hoping that others will chime in with additional info/tips/experiences to the benefit of all.



I found 8 drains on my car:
  1. Driver side front windscreen
  2. Passenger side front windscreen
  3. Center front windscreen
  4. Driver side rear window
  5. Passenger side rear window
  6. Driver side luggage compartment
  7. Passenger side luggage compartment
  8. Fuel cap drain
I used a plastic wire with a spring tip that electricians use for tracing in-wall electrical wire routes (I have no idea what this is called in English:confused:) and a piece of 5mm rubber tube for cleaning of drains nos. 1-7. Could not make this work for drain no 8 but was finally successful cleaning this drain with pressurized air.


Ad 1: The position of drain 1 is below the plastic cover for the wiper arrangement which is attached to the bottow part of the windscreen all the way to the drivers side. It is not necessary to remove the cover to clean the drain which can be accessed at the end of the cover at the driver side (where all the leaves and other crud is washed over the edge of the cover and into the drain 🇹🇩) but it will help to undo a couple of the screws that fixes the cover to the firewall to remove whatever is caught at the top of this drain. This drain is routed in a very windy way around the fuse box and through the inside liner of the engine compartment towards the front fender. The lower part of this drain (which is where the real blockage is probably located) can be accessed through the hole for the side indicator light. The indicator assembly is easily removed by sliding it towards the front of the car and then pulling out the rear end of the assembly. The rubber hose of the drain is now visible through the hole. If you have anything larger than slim fingers, you'll need a pair of small pliers or similar to grab the hose and extend the lower end of it out through the hole. The hose is only long enough to just reach out through the hole and you can easily clean the crud out.

Ad 2: If you found drain no 1 - you'll have no trouble finding no 2. It is all the way to the passenger side and easier to clean as it is more straightly routed. Same procedure as for no 1 getting access through the indicator light hole.

Ad 3: Drain no 3 on my car has no tube connected and drains directly onto the gearbox. This was not clogged on my car but would supposedly be the easiest to access and clean simply by working with your fingers through the drain hole from below.

Ad 4: This drain is located just between the rear window and the trunk lid and has a grille cover mounted over the opening. This drain hose is routed towards the rear of the car between the black plastic liner of the luggage compartment and the rear fender and ends at the lower rear inside of the bumper on the driver side. Yeah, I know it is a lousy explanation and I did not have my camera handy when I did this job (and even if I did I would not have wanted to put my hands on it :)). You can locate and follow the drain hose through the hole behind the first aid kit and see where it exits into the bumper - with this in mind you should be able to locate the end opening of the drain hose by getting under the car with a flash light. This is the most difficult of all the drains to clean - but also the most important (along with no 5). I made good use of the flex plastic wire and blowing through the rubber hose intermittently. In retrospect I think I would fill up the drain hose by pouring water into it and then get under the car and massage the end of the drain hose with a screwdriver or similar to get the crud out that way. Either way I believe that it will take a good amount of time and dizzyness (if you like me do not have a compressor - hmmm isn't there one in the trunk for the tyre repair kit...? Doh!). Just hang in there, it is such a relief when the big splash of muddy water is all over the floor.

Ad 5: Pretty much like no 4 just on opposite side of course. This hose can be tracked through the hole where the hydraulic pump is located (remove the lid which is located just opposite the first aid kit in the passenger side of the trunk).

Ad 6: This drain point is easily noticeable from under the car with its cylindrical outlet with a rubber seal in it. It can be seen from the top side through the "broom" seals along the trunk lid arm arrangement. This drain is intended for draining the inside of the trunk and you will hopefully thus hopefully never need it but it should d... well not be clogged in case you do!

Ad 7: Same as 6 - just opposite side.

Ad 8: Located below the fuel cap and is routed alongside drain tubn no. 5 described above, which means that it is very difficult to get to. I could not clean this with the fishing tape. I eventually blew the crud out (carefully) with pressurized air from a "gun". I wrapped some paper tissue around the air tube to make a seal between the air tube and the drain pipe - worked like a charm. I guess this method would be effective for all the other drains too...


I hope that the above can be of some help to someone. It is a very easy claning job to do and it will do your car a lot of good to be able to get rid of the rain or washing water in stead of accumulating pools at the front and getting into the trunk and its electric modules at the back.

Have fun!

Raindog

[EDIT - Myk}
For underneath windscreen cowl see >>LINK<< thanks @Rïn
 

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#30 ·
ok, that makes cleaning of the front drains a little more tricky. I needed a battery connector removal tool to get my wiper arms off.

Alternatively, I belive that you can reach the drain tube from below if you loosen the wheel arch liner (correct term??). This requires removal of the wheel though.

The passenger side front drain is actually much more straight than the drivers side (LHD) and you could possible clear it with a good thick wire from above.

Good luck.

Raindog
 
#31 ·
Hi Raindog

Hi mate,

Sorry for the delay.
Things are better, the passenger carpet is wet but not any where near as bad as before. I had a look at things today and it looks as if the water seems to be running down the passenger side windscreen plastic trim.....if you know what I mean. The plastic trim that covers the winscreen from top to bottom, if you know what I mean. Not sure really where the leak is comeing from, any way things are much better so thanks again for your help.

Haha, ok I have a new question. When I drive with a heavy right foot the gearbox seems to have a problem with the kick down. It hangs on to the gears or it will jump into a neautral, losses drive and engine just revs......any ideas? Is the auto box gubbed or hopefully could it be something simple.
Cheers again

Craig:)
 
#32 ·
Hi Craig,

You should check if the hollow path of the rubber seal from the top of the passenger side windscreen down to near the side mirror is clear and unclogged. Take the roof off for unhindered access.

I suggest that you make a new post for the transmission issue - I'm of no help on that topic... driving a manual R)

Raindog
 
#33 ·
Wet carpet

Hi Raindog,

Thanks mate, I will have a go this weekend. Is it hollow all the way down, i tried a metal cout hanger straightened out but didn't seem to go down very far the last time. I didn't want to push to hard, will try again.

Thanks again

Craig:tu:
 
#35 · (Edited by Moderator)
Wasn't this once a sticky??

We had a massive rain storm last night... and of course it coincided with me finally having to take my SLK out of the garage and leave it outside for the night... So before I pulled it out I checked all the drains. Everything was flowing great except for the passenger side front drain. Leaves had gone into that cavern area and were completely blocking it... I used a really narrow vacuum attachment to suck most of them out so it had some flow. It's still draining kind of slow on that one drain, so I am going to have to spend some more time at it on the weekend.

This thread was very helpful!
 
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#36 ·
Wasn't this once a sticky??

We had a massive rain storm last night...and of course it co-incided with me finally having to take my SLK out of the garage and leave it outside for the night...So before I pulled it out I checked all the drains. Everything was flowing great except for the passenger side front drain. Leaves had gone into that cavern area and were completely blocking it....I used a really narrow vaccuum attachment to suck most of them out so it had some flow. It's still draining kind of slow on that one drain, so I am going to have to spend some more time at it on the weekend.

This thread was very helpful!
It was. Its now in the DIY section.
 
#39 ·
Did you pull out the entire indicator assembly so that it hangs by its wire like in my picture in my original post?

If indeed you cannot get to the drain tube through the indicator hole you may have to remove the wiper arms and the plastic shield below the windshield. If however, you have access to a lift, it may be easier to get to the drain from the wheel arch (requires removal of wheel and a few screws that hold the wheel arch liner.

Good luck

Raindog
 
#40 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hi folks!
I'd like to share a couple pictures of today's cleaning. I cleaned my drains last year but I think I did it the wrong way. Let me share some good tips and tricks =)

At first I used compressed air from my 20 gallon air compressor. I took a piece of clear silicone tube (which came from the fluid transfer pump I used for my rear differential. You can get one from Ace Hardware store or probably any automotive store will do. Not sure about the diameter but it should fit the hole in the drain point :D) and inserted it into the back drain point on the top.

You can see this clear tube on the amazon picture. Plews 55001 Lubrimatic Fluid Quart Pump, Fits Standard Quart Bottles : Amazon.com : Automotive

Then blew compressed air and the accumulated dirt started coming out from the same point on top =)))) not from the bottom :confused:. So I traced the drain line. It goes into the inside of the car along rear fender and ends on the outside right underneath the outside of the bumper.
Can be seen here:





Sorry, there was no way to take a good shot of this place. Tried to bend but that's the best I could do. You need to jiggle wiggle with your fingers to feel the end rubber piece. Then I inserted my air compressor gun nozzle into the bottom of this drain line. 90 PSI pressure and look what came out:


Nasty, isn't it? So I blew it out and then inserted the clear silicone tube from the top and hold the other end against my garden hose handle which looks like a gun with a thin tip. And pressed the trigger to allow water under pressure.

Melnor Adjustable Rear-Trigger Nozzle 470-640 - The Home Depot
It definitely cleared the drain point =)

To clear the front ones I used compressed air from the top and the same water-pressure method. Now they are super clean :rb

And now the reasons why it gets clogged. Over the time small pieces of leaves and blooming flowers get into it and get stuck at the very bottom due to "ingenious" MB engineering. The drain line is pretty straight but it makes a "T-shaped" curve right at the bottom and the end piece comes out to be "smashed" rather than just coming in a nice round pattern. Think about it as if you squeeze the rubber tube with your fingers and that makes your water shoot further. So leaves don't have enough space to squeeze their way through an already squeezed tube and form a "bottleneck".

P.S. I don't suggest putting any kind of wire into these drain points as some people do.
First reason is that it doesn't clear the drain but rather tucks all the junk into the bottom, and makes draining even worse. The wire does reach the bottom up to the point where this rubber end makes a T-shaped connection but doesn't go beyond that due to flexibility issues.
Second, you can damage the rubber drain (cut it accidentally) and all this water will go right into your rear fender area, where the hydraulic pump is located. Not too good, isn't it? And it will require a lot of labor and disassembly to replace that rubber line. Definitely not worth it, believe me!

So get a friend with some air compressor and an $8 garden hose gun-type tip and clean them thoroughly and properly! R)
 
#42 · (Edited by Moderator)
to clear the front drains simply remove the plastic wheel arch liners the drivers side (uk) also has the washer bottle that needs to be removed one 10mm bolt and it slides forward these blocked drains will be the cause of wet carpets in 90% of cases
Oh, here's where the water is coming out =))) I was looking and looking and couldn't understand. Although All of the water seemed to come out I think I still need to take a closer look in case some "hidden" junk is still there" =D

Thanks for sharing it with us! :rb
 
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#43 · (Edited by Moderator)
Hi all,

I have a simular problem with drain number 2.
My fingers are thick and iam everything BUT technical :)

I did manage to remove the side indicator and found the rubber tube which i could take with a screwdriver.

But I have nothing like some sort of wire to clean it. Also when I remove the screws from the plastic thing where the wipers are (underneath the window), I still cant get into the hole with my hands. I did notice some wires in it and my wipers are in front of it. I am a bit too scared if I remove those things, I cant place it back :/

Anyone have any suggestions how i could solve it with basic materials and tools? :)

My passenger side is not only very wet, but when i drive, liters of water are coming out :(

Hope to hear something.

Robbert
 
#44 ·
Robbert

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#45 ·
You might need to remove the plastic cover right below the windshield. Check this thread. It's not that hard. You just need a torx screwdriver bit set. Just don't pull too hard on it since it got some wires and electronic stuff attached to it.
You can see 3 screws removed o this picture. There are 3 on the other side too. Oh, did I mention - you need to remove windshield wipers first =)
Image
 
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#46 ·
Thanks for the quick reaction.

I did manage to remove the 6 screws and only 1 wiper.
On 1 wiper i removed the screw and its stuck. I tried to turn/twist/pull, but it wont move a bit.
Cause of this wiper, iam not able to get to the drain corner.
Any suggestions how to remove a wiper when its stuck?
I dont want to pull too hard.
 
#47 · (Edited by Moderator)
slk r170 rear drain holes

Great post by the way, but I am still unable to find the exits of the drains both sides, all I can see is the ends of two tubes, one either side, which when probed, seem to go through into the wells either side of the boot (trunk).

I find the info on here a bit confusing, some posts say the drain hoes are in front of the rear tyres, some say behind, some say at the side of the rear bumper (fender ), does anyone have a photo or drawing of the rear drain holes for a 1998 slk 230 (R170 model ), many thanks. Brian.
 
#49 · (Edited by Moderator)
Great post by the way, but i am still unable to find the exits of the drains both sides, all i can see is the ends of two tubes , one either side, which when probed ,seem to go through into the wells either side of the boot( trunk ).
I find the info on here a bit confusing, some posts say the drain hoes are in front of the rear tyres, some say behind, some say at the side of the rear bumper (fender ), does anyone have a photo or drawing of the rear drain holes for a 1998 slk 230 (R170 model ), many thanks.Brian.
Hers a link with a few pics etc http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170-slk-class/1300402-rear-drain-problem.html

Also, have a look through the other links in my signature.
 
#53 · (Edited by Moderator)
i am currently experiencing the problems that are discussed in this thread and i was wondering if anybody thought about using some liquid plummer? Draino perhaps?
I don't think that using liquid plummer is a good idea. You don't want to damage your rubber lines because then it will be a PITA to replace them when they start leaking inside your car :deal
Besides if they are clogged, they're clogged with deposited leaves and dirt and I don't think liquid plumber like Drano will dissolve this type of dirt... I'd recommend you using compressed air first and then garden hose.

For the back drainage locations I used compressed air from the top and then also from the bottom. This blew out ***t load of dirt from them! ;) You might want to do some contortionist moves but better clean it once and the right way 🍺
 
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#55 ·
My helpful side (I believe I've posted this earlier) says: go to Home Depot or similar and get some small diameter tubing (often used as drain for dehumidifiers, air conditioners etc) and some adapters. I would try to just force it down the drain and force out the debris...alternatively hook it up to compressed air or water to force out the blockage.

The only other alternative is to raise the car and feed wire/tubing back up the drain to dislodge the debris...
 
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