Mercedes SLK World banner
Cancel
Create thread New Garage Forums
Status
Not open for further replies.

Vario roof module busted?!

Jump to Latest
7.3K views 28 replies 9 participants last post by  jbanks15  
#1 ·
I can't get the roof down. It's absolutely dead! I don't even get the warning messages in the dash if the "lid" is open or even if the boot lid is open!

Doing a DAS read gives quite a lot of issues:
  • Specified-actual configuration of interior CAN bus: The specified configuration of control module VR does not correspond to the actual condition.
  • REAR SAM - Rear signal acquisition and actuation module: 9097 Control module N52 (Soft top control module) is not sending any data.
  • OCP - Overhead control panel: 90D2 CAN reception timeout: VR Vario roof. (Do not replace control module OCP. Continue troubleshooting in control unit VR).
  • UCP - Upper control panel: 9038 There is a discontinuity in the line to component S84 (Vario roof/ATA switch group) or the component is defective.
  • IC - Instrument cluster: 911C Fault in CAN communication with control unit Vario roof.
  • PTS - Parktronic system: 9053 No or incorrect CAN message from control unit N52 (Soft top control module).
  • PTS - Parktronic system: 9052 Fault in CAN communication with control unit N52 (Soft top control module).
  • C-AAC - Convenience automatic air conditioning / AAC - Automatic air conditioning / HEAT - Automatic heater: 96A5 Fault in CAN communication with control unit Vario roof.
The car have been in storage for six months and I've only taken it out every now and then to do work on it in the garage next door.

One of the first things I did was to take the boot appart (trunk partition, carpets etc - including that rear plastic panel where the switch for the roof/trunk partition) so that I could get to the chock absorbers top mount when I replaced them with YSRs.

I've been racking my brain about what I could have done (or not done!) to affect this, but in truth "all" I've done (other than retrofiting YSRs) is replace bushings in suspension arms and rear subframe, spark plugs, ignition coils and leads as well as replaced all oils in the car (except power steering, haven't gotten to that yet, and the roof hydralics).


Now, looking at that list above, the error is almost in all modules, so I started thinking about ANOTHER problem I'm having. The ABS/ESP isn't working.

The reason for that shows itself in DAS as:
  • ME-SFI 2.8 - Motor electronics 2.8: P20CC-008 'Rough road detection' signal (by comparing wheel speeds) : Speed signal from control module ESP implausible / Read out fault memory of control unit ESP. (P1999)
  • ESM - Electronic selector module: P1860 The right rear wheel rpm signal sent from the traction system via the CAN bus is implausible.
  • ESP - Electronic stability program: C1130 L6/4 (right rear speed sensor) : Line monitoring
  • ESP - Electronic stability program: C1707 Cruise control : Consequential fault . Process first of all all the other stored fault codes.
  • HRA - Headlamp range adjustment: 9062 The signal line from component A51 (Headlamp range adjustment rear axle sensor) has Short circuit to positive.
The reason for this I'm absolutely sure is because I didn't manage to get one of three connectors located just above the rear frame.
Image


Both those left ones ("bottom-left" two in the picture) goes to the right wheel and that left-most one is the one I couldn't put back in. It just refused after only a milimeter or two. Not sure why, could be the pins not going in the holes, but it all LOOKS fine! I'm going to try again as soon as the weather gets warmer, it's almost 100 miles to the garage where I used to work and have it stored over the winter so don't want to go there unless I have to..


However, because "things" leads to other "things" (as we can see from the cascade of errors all over the place!), COULD this be the cause of the VR issues as well? Although that wouldn't explain why DAS can't find the module.. Unless this connector I can't get back in causes .. "compound errors" on the CAN bus??

I'm struggling to understand (or accept!) why the VR module "just broke" like that.. But because there's been so much work going on over six months or so, I don't even know where to begin to unravel this.

I've (obviously :) ) tried to disconnect the battery for 30 minutes, cleared errors and checked ALL (!!) the fuses in the cabin. I have yet to check the fuses in the boot, but I'll do that tomorrow.


Any ideas would be much appreciated! Granted, a pre-used control module is only £85, but still, if anyone have any ideas..
 

Attachments

#2 ·
If only everyone could attach that PDF with every post, that'd solve so many issues..... that is great to have.

Right rear ABS sensor is either damaged or not plugged in.
You need new MAF.
ATA module unplugged or dead, may need replacement.
And yes, VR module completely dead, no comm. Exclamation point means no comm and C4 keeps timing out.

I don't recall where the VR module is located, but was the car stored inside or outside? You may have a little flooding issue.....
 
#3 ·
It's not the ABS sensor or MAF. I'm pretty sure anyway. The reason why I'm sure is, as I said, I haven't been able to connect that cable into the connector. I'm FAIRLY certain that's the one that goes to the sensor in the right wheel..

Two cables goes to the right wheel, one of them is for the brake pad wear sensor and the other goes "inside" the hub and one cable goes to the left wheel (brake pad wear sensor). It's that one that goes "inside" the hub on the right wheel that I didn't manage to connect to the connector above the rear subframe..

The car is completely dry and it's been stored indoors in a tempered "garage storage" space.
 
#4 ·
I'm only recommending what the car needs based on the current codes you have. ECU is posting P0171 and P0174. On a M113 that is classic symptom of a dirty or bad MAF. Also you have hard code for rear right ABS sensor. Again, that's what in your PDF.

Check the fuses in the rear, that is where the fuse powering the VR will be. If it is intact and you have power and ground at the connector, it is bad module.
 
#5 ·
One thing that I now come to think of is that they've put it on charge and battery booster directly on the battery. That I've read can cause a lot of problems.. Could this be the cause of all or most of this?
 
#18 ·
Regarding the siren, I managed to open it up (which was quite easy - other thread in the DIY section) but can't find the actual battery. I've asked around, but it's weekend so not expecting an answer for another few days :).

They're about £110, so if I can avoid getting a new one and only get a battery for a tenner, then even better :).

If I ever take it to "My Guy" for work, I'll ask him if he can remove the DTC memory sync issue, but I'm ignoring it for now. Thanx.
 
#20 ·
Response from SmartTOP already! That was quick!!
Do you have experience or know someone who does have experience with SMT soldering and has the equipment? I could send you instructions on what to try.

There is a overvoltage fuse in the module which turned out to be not really necessary, so you could remove that and try if that fixes the issue.

Stefan Wilhelmy
Software Development (Las Vegas)
Click to expand...
So as soon as I get the instructions, I'll try that.
 
#23 ·
Ok, might be fairly easy to fix! And cheap! I might just get under £5 :D. I need to replace (or remove completely - the instructions from them kind'a indicates that but waiting for confirmation) the diod "TP1" because it have a short, which lead to the fuse to blow.

I'm currently waiting for clarification on what part(s) to get, there's quite a few options :).
 
#24 ·
Turbo said:
~~ the diod "TP1" because it have a short, which lead to the fuse to blow.
I'm currently waiting for clarification on what part(s) to get, there's quite a few options :).
Click to expand...
Fingers crossed a few replacement components will fix the SmartTop (y)
I wonder if the over voltage fuse was to protect the ST, but should the ST be fused against how many Amp's it can draw from what ever R171 circuit it is tapped into..?

I wondering if the ST failure is a casualty of using a battery boaster on Your SLK..??? 🙁
 
#27 ·
Ok, so the new fuse replaced and TP1 removed as per instructions.
Image


It got better.. Now the windows works (via the fob), but still no go on the roof! This time I could look at the LEDs on ST and the red flashes every time. Even on lock/unlock and windows up/down (via fob).

So SOMETHING isn't quite right.. I've updated my ticket at ST with this new information and we'll see what they say.


PS. The advice on their FAQ pages is that if the red flashes, try another CAN cable. But I'm 99% certain I used the right one! And since the windows work, that should mean it's the right one, right?
 
#28 ·
Oh, oups! My bad! I must have mixed them up at some point, because ST support reitterated that because of the windows, it (ST) IS indeed working, but the LED blinking is because it’s connected to the wrong module/cable.

Checking another cable and now it’s working again..

Origami at its finest :)

Retag as ”Solved”?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.
Mercedes SLK World
posts
1.4M
members
88K
Since
2006
A forum community dedicated to Mercedes SLK owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about your R170/R171/R172 SLK, or AMG performance, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
New Member Introductions SLK R171 General Discussion SLK R170 General Discussion SLK R172 General Discussion General SLK/SLC Discussions