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Discussion starter · #22 ·
Well, through the processing of "messing around till you get something you're happy about" I managed to momentarily get my SLK running quite smoothly on my DET 3 using the cam signal as a crank trigger.

All the way till I stupidly killed the MAP sensor while I was repositioning some wires and forgot to turn off the ignition causing the wiring to still be live. Dumb dumb dumb...

Getting a new MAP sensor one of these days, hope it's just the sensor.

Funnily enough, just like when the MAF sensor is unplugged, the engine runs absolutely 100% fine. Just a check engine light. I wonder how this ECU actually works, because you can seemingly unplug almost every sensor without the car going into limp mode.

Seems as long as the crankshaft position sensor and camshaft position sensor are plugged in, the engine runs fine and even goes into closed loop.

Black magic ECU, or this ECU has been modified in the past and I don't know about it.
 
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Discussion starter · #23 ·
I got a new MAP sensor fitted (definitely not a pain in the ass to replace) and gave it another try.

Looks like my initial VE table was pretty good. Car starts and idles great, runs halfway decent when driving. Definitely some lean and rich spots in the table but the car runs and drives.
I'm not sure if I'm gonna put the effort into perfecting this table as I'm unlikely to use the DET 3 in this car anyway, but perhaps I can do it because this VE table will probably still come in handy.

At least fun to be driving the car on a partial standalone ECU for the first time!

The original ECU set

drumrolls

15 trouble codes. Not plugging in the injectors really makes the ECU hate you :LOL:
If I decide to get another ECU for this, I'll probably buy some china **** injectors just so the original ECU has something to play with. They don't do anything, but it's like player 2 with the controller unplugged thinking he's doing a kick-ass job.
 
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Discussion starter · #25 ·
When I get another ECU or learn how to remap the original ECU, I will.

With this one, I can‘t control timing. There’s not much power to be gained from fueling alone.
 
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Discussion starter · #27 ·
It’s a shame information about this ECU seems so sparse.

The easiest way to proceed for me seems to be installing a complete separate standalone ECU… which is not easy at all.

Yeah well, wiring it up and getting the car to start and idle is not that difficult but I don’t entirely feel like doing all Mercedes’ hard work of setting up the engine software all over again, especially all the supercharger related stuff.

I have still not been able to find anyone that wants to remap my ECU, one tuner straight up told me to not even bother with this ECU.

We’ve had people on this forum flash ECUs, but perhaps those were pre-facelift models. They seem much easier to work with. Googling this ECU model number just brings up a bunch of confused people in threads trying to figure out how to remap it.

I’ve asked around in a bunch of tuning communities and noone seems to know anything about this ECU. Pulling the .bin file from it is not that difficult, but actually making sense of the .bin file is the tricky part.
 
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Discussion starter · #28 · (Edited)
Alright, time to get going again. I'm fitting a Speeduino ECU to my SLK.

As I mentioned before, when I get things working I'll release all the documentation and tuning files for free for anyone to use. I'm currently still in the process of figuring out how different things on the engine work, and how I'm gonna implement things.

Total estimated project cost:
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This estimate is assuming I replace the parts I can't make work with off-the-shelf, Speeduino compatible ones. If I can make the OEM bypass valve work, this will cut €100 of the total cost. If I run into issues I haven't discovered yet at this moment, the price might increase. I'll keep the sheet updated.


I've figured a bunch of things out already, but there are a few things I'm still working on before I can install and connect the Speeduino:

1. Ignition system. The Speeduino unit I got only outputs 5v logic level triggers. While the original coil-on-plug coils also use a logic level trigger, they use a 12v trigger instead. Unfortunately most cars use a 5v trigger so that's kinda what these things have been designed around. Still figuring out if I can somehow drive these with a 5v trigger, otherwise I'm swapping out the ignition system with something I know for sure will be compatible with the Speeduino. Might not be a bad idea either way; I'm not sure how well these coils still function as they're probably as old as the car. I feel like I'm losing spark here and there sometimes. I'm thinking of installing an off-the-shelf aftermarket coil pack that is designed to work with Megasquirt and Speeduino. Anyone else who has done this before, I'd love to know what ECU you used and how you got spark to work, or whether I'm completely wrong and these coils work just fine with a 5v signal.

2. Supercharger bypass valve. I'd ideally like to reuse the original valve, but I haven't yet figured out how it is actually controlled. I'll need to find out how I control the valve. It seems to take two motor control signals, as seen here:

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However I'm not very electronics smart and don't entirely understand what this means. I have a spare valve that I removed from the car because it was defective, but I think it will still function well enough to get me to test and try how I can control the valve. If all else fails, I'll probably just install a vacuum operated valve but it would be nice to keep the electronic valve so I can control precisely when and how much boost the engine is getting.

3. Variable valve timing. To be honest, I have no clue what kind of VVT this engine has. A simple on-off? Something variable? More research required.
Update: Found some documents saying it's a simple on-off solenoid. Frequency is still unknown, so will have to try and see what works.


This is how far I got so far in the planning phase:

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It's not entirely complete yet, but it's got a bunch of things covered already.

My previous experience has learnt me this:

  • The OEM ECU will keep operating the throttle no matter what. You can disconnect literally every single sensor and output, but as long as the throttle pedal and the throttle body are connected the OEM ECU will actuate the throttle valve
  • Supplying a VR signal to the OEM ECU is pointless: As soon as you sniff the signal in any way it will disregard the signal. The ECU can use either the cam signal or the crank signal to drive the tachometer on the gauge cluster. Fun fact: The car can run without the crankshaft position sensor somehow. Guess it uses the camshaft position signal to drive the engine? It runs very poorly at low rpms and will stall out on an idle, but if you keep the RPMs up you can drive the car just fine without the crank sensor.

So some research will have to continue before I can start fitting everything to the car, but I'm quite far along already. I will be using a wideband oxygen sensor to tune the car.

I've "sniffed" the original ignition timing table from the OEM ECU by running a logging tool and got a table to start with. The rest will have to be done from scratch, but most tuning software has base table calculators so you can get a rough table that will make the car at least run.

If anyone has any input or any questions, feel free to ask because there's an almost 100% chance I missed something which will come to bite me later. I'm no pro, just figuring things out along the way in the hopes to get this car running well on a standalone ECU. This engine is way more advanced than anything I've ever worked on before, my previous experience is converting engines from carburettor and mechanical ignition to fuel injection and electronic ignition, which means you start entirely from scratch and can design things however you want. In this case, I have to make some things compatible with each other which ironically makes starting completely from scratch easier for me.
 

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Discussion starter · #29 ·
GOT A BREAKTHROUGH!

So the facelift model uses a bypass valve with a 6 pi connector.
Information is much more widely available on the pre-facelift model.

I found out that the pre-facelift model uses a bypass valve with a 3 pin connector that takes a simple PWM signal.

That’s easy!

I’ll just have to acquire a pre-facelift bypass valve as I can easily control that using the Speeduino. I’ll have to check if I can mount it directly or whether I need to do some hose/adapter shenanigans, but I’m gonna try this before I try to make a mechanical blow-off valve work.

Funnily enough, you often have to ask the wreckers for a throttle body as they commonly misidentify the part as a throttle body. Had that when I had to replace my broken valve :)
 
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Discussion starter · #31 ·
Hehe, I think the basic concept is gonna be the same on the R171, but I think the smarter computer systems on that car is gonna make at an even bigger pain in the behind.

This already feels a bit like a fight between man and machine, trying to prevent the factory systems from getting a mental meltdown and having the car act mostly like a stock one except for improved engine performance.

I’m trying to keep cruise control, traction control and stability control functional and have the only anomaly on the dashboard a check engine light from the OEM ECU having no clue what in the name of Karl Benz is going on.
 
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Discussion starter · #32 ·
I've updated the diagram in post 28 with the most recent changes. This might not be a permanent, but I'm gonna use an NGK smart coil that takes easy peasy 5v low level signals from the Speeduino to spark the plugs. Later on I'll probably find a suitable coil-on-plug solution to declutter the engine bay, but this'll get the prototype moving.

Now that I know that a 45hz 12v PWM signal is all is needed to command a pre-facelift bypass valve, this will be my initial plan. I may or may not switch to a mechanical blow-off valve later if either I can't get this to work, or for coolness factor. I like mechanical things. Shoot me :)

I figured out the VVT in this engine is a simple on-off signal. I don't know the frequency of it, but this can be found through trial-and-error.

I feel like I got all the most important bits now to get the engine to start. Now comes the annoyance of wiring everything in without causing the car to explode creating a crater larger the Tsar bomb.
 
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Discussion starter · #33 ·
So I've gotten most parts of the wiring loom, a (supposedly) suitable ignition coil, a bypass valve.

Now waiting on the actual ECU itself. It's still stuck in customs, hope that doesn't take weeks. Can't wait to get started!
 
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Discussion starter · #34 ·
Woo yeah! Everything has come in today!

Since I don't have a pigtail for the pre-facelift bypass valve, this is my solution for the time being:
Image


I'll epoxy-fill it so the wires stay in place while I look for a proper connector.


So first order of business was trying to install the wideband oxygen sensor. Without that, tuning is essentially impossible.
So here sits the O2 sensor:

Image


That's pretty tight! Even after removing that heatshield there is barely any space. While I do have an O2 sensor socket, this traditional socket isn't gonna work here...

Image



A quick Google search told me that you need a special tool for this. Because why would you design a car in a way that it can be serviced with existing tools? I truly despise it when they go out of their way to design something in such a way that it can only be taken apart using special tools. The original tool for this costs over a €100.

All they would have had to do is rotate the sensor 90 degrees and you would be able to use a normal socket on it.... Like how the rear O2 sensor is.

This all comes back to my experience with German cars in general, and my favourite joke (or complaint) about German cars:

Two German engineers come together.

"Hans, that looks fantastic. Great job!........ Hold up wait, you made a terrible mistake."
"Huh, what is it?"

"You accidentally made this easy to service, we gotta redesign it so it is near impossible to service and everyone who works on this will want to jump of a bridge!"
I tried using a closed-end wrench slipped over the sensor's cable and then over the sensor, but it's STUCK. Like, STUCK stuck.

Fortunately I found a clone of this tool on Amazon for a much more realistic €20 and ordered that, but I'm not positive that this is gonna get the sensor out without breaking things.
This is a rather big annoyance, but one that was to be expected. O2 sensors are simply always a pain in the behind.

The tool will likely drop in my mailbox tomorrow, that should allow me to put a big breaker bar on it. Let's see if putting some pressure on it with that breaker bar and smacking it with a hammer helps it come loose.... Or I launch the entire exhaust system into low orbit, that's also a possibility.
 
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Discussion starter · #36 ·
Welp, gave it another go...

The tool was virtually useless. Due to the weird angle you have to work at, you end up pulling the socket sideways upon applying any real torque. I bet it works great if the sensor hasn't been in there for two decades.

So, the sensor stripped. Well scheiße.

First off, bravo Mercedes for making this stupidly complicated. I'd like to say a lot of bad words but that is generally not welcome on most forums and online servers 😅.



So, that thing is REAL stuck in there. It's always one thing completely blocking you from progressing. I need to figure out a way to get that thing out of there, otherwise I'd be better off drilling another hole in the exhaust to put the wideband sensor there while letting the original one chill where it sits.

I think I'm gonna end up taking the entire exhaust off, as there is no space to get an angle grinder in there to grind the sensor off.

Frustrating for sure!
 
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Discussion starter · #37 ·
I’ve come up with what I’m gonna do.

I’m afraid that the bolts that hold the exhaust to the manifold will snap if I try to take the exhaust off which will instantly render the car undrivable (well, at least according to my local laws :ROFLMAO:), so I’m gonna drill a second hole in the exhaust and add a second bung so I can have both sensors installed simultaneously. With the car on jacks I’m pretty sure I’ll have enough space to maneuver my welder underneath the car.

This has the added benefit of keeping the OEM ECU happy with it’s OEM O2 sensor, which will help for my future attempt of trying to make the OEM ECU not realize it’s not actually in control of the engine and hopefully prevent check engine lights from being thrown.

I’m trying the “player 2 with controller unplugged” approach, where the OEM ECU thinks it’s doing a banger job running the engine while actually not being in control at all, keeping the OEM ECU’s emissions monitors alive and making it easier to pass smog inspection. While the OEM ECU is highly skeptical of any sensor values and will throw codes if any sensor value is even slightly off, it does not seem to check at all what’s happening on it’s outputs.

This has been what has made it possible for people to put mechanical bypass valves on this engine. With the pre-facelift ECU, it will get all pissy if you do this without doing it in a specific way but the facelift ECU just cares about the sensor values making sense. It will keep happily running the engine even in the most dire conditions. Injectors unplugged, ignition wires unplugged, all sensors unplugged except for either the crank sensor or the cam sensor, and it will continue to attempt running the engine. It will even run the engine without the crank sensor as long as the cam sensor is in place and vice versa. It’ll run like ****, but it’ll run :ROFLMAO:

Otherwise I’d have to revert the car to stock for the inspection, solely for the fact that the ECU won’t give it the green light for emissions. The way I’m installing the Speeduino makes this an easy process (just unplug the Speeduino and plug the OEM injector and ignition cables back in) as I’m making a shared system where both ECUs read from the same sensors.
 
Thanks for the explanation, this would apply to R171's too I guess, it makes sense from a engine reliability aspect. All the talk about the impossibility of running an aftermarket ECU in conjunction with the stock ECU may be questionable then. I'd like to do that with mine rather than get a tune although I'm told that this can be done remotely What's required my end for that I do not know.

It's good to see someone on this forum doing something other than embellishments, not a popular thing to say but 😃
 
Discussion starter · #39 · (Edited)
Thanks for the explanation, this would apply to R171's too I guess, it makes sense from a engine reliability aspect. All the talk about the impossibility of running an aftermarket ECU in conjunction with the stock ECU may be questionable then. I'd like to do that with mine rather than get a tune although I'm told that this can be done remotely What's required my end for that I do not know.
The only thing that I should really clarify is that no cooperation between both ECUs is happening: The standalone ECU is fully in control of the engine and the OEM ECU kind of just exists. You could remove it entirely and the engine will still run, but you'll lose a bunch of functions such as the gauge cluster, cruise control, transmission control. That's really the only reason why we're still keeping it. We don't need it for the engine to run, rather we need it for the rest of the car to keep functioning 😜

I should also clarify, with "OEM ECU" I mean the original Mercedes-Benz ECU.

I haven't really completed anything yet, but this is essentially how it all works:

You will need a standalone ECU. I chose to use a Speeduino, but you may use a Megasquirt or whichever ECU you prefer.
You will then disconnect most outputs from the original ECU. This meaning, the injectors, the ignition system, the supercharger bypass valve and the variable valve timing solenoid.

The Speeduino will control these, and thus actually be responsible for running the engine.

The throttle body will remain connected to the original ECU. This is a safety precaution as the original ECU has many failsafes to prevent a runaway condition. This will also keep cruise control functional, and in theory (this is what I'm gonna test) also should keep the traction control and ESP alive. From my own experimentation the throttle body control of the OEM ECU will keep working under all and any circumstances, as long as the OEM ECU has power and is physically connected to the throttle body.


All the engine's original sensors will both connect to the original ECU and the Speeduino ECU. This means that both will be getting identical data.

Now you will have to tune the Speeduino ECU from scratch, you essentially have a blank slate to start with. You will need to tune the engine so it runs similarly to stock under low load and cruising conditions. The emissions monitors of the original ECU will work normally as long as all the values the original ECU sees from the sensors are within it's tolerance. This shouldn't be difficult to achieve as you would normally tune for a 14.7 to 1 air/fuel ratio under low load conditions. Since the OEM ECU uses a narrowband O2 sensor, it isn't actually able to measure the air/fuel ratio under high load, as under these high loads the air/fuel ratio will fall outside of the window the O2 sensor can measure. A narrowband sensor can only measure between approximately 14 to 1 and 15 to 1 ratios as it's solely intended to maintain 14.7 when cruising. When you step on it, the ECU will command an air/fuel ratio that is somewhere around 12 to 1, however it has no way of checking that this is actually what occurs, so it simply does not use the oxygen sensor, goes into open loop (meaning it won't be checking any emissions either) and run the engine based on some calculations it makes.

The Siemens ECU used in the facelift model is quite tolerant to changes in boost pressure, it mostly ignores it however. This is why the engine will end up running lean when installing an oversized crankshaft pulley; it simply does not have a fuel map for the increased boost pressure.


You will tune the Speeduino ECU using a wideband oxygen sensor to run safe air/fuel mixtures across the board, and do any tuning that you like to make the engine faster such as increased timing. Since it's you yourself that's tuning the Speeduino unit, you'll have to make sure you tune it safely. The original ECU can't do anything about it if you run for example too much timing advance and get severe detonation. This means that yes, you can blow up your engine if you do not know how to tune the engine. You will require the skill to tune the engine!

I aim to make fuel and ve tables available to significantly reduce the amount of skill required to make a nicely running engine, however you'll still need to know some basics so you don't blow up your engine!

As long as you tune the Speeduino ECU so that the values emitted by the sensor make sense to the original ECU, it will not complain. Since the original ECU can't actually see what the ignition timing is or what the pulse signals to the injectors are, it can't interfere with them or complain about them. It can only look at the "results": aka the O2 sensor, the MAP sensor etc.



What is important to understand is that the original Mercedes ECU is only in control of the throttle. Apart from that, it can't do anything since it's connections to the injectors, ignition system and supercharger bypass valve have been severed. It's on you to tune the ECU so that it runs the engine well enough to keep the stock ECU happy.

You will need to fool the original ECU a bit, you'll have to connect something to it's outputs. It will detect if the injector cables are unplugged (open circuit codes), so you could connect them to dummy injectors (cheap China units) or suitable resistors. The same thing goes for the ignition system, the variable valve timing solenoid if you choose to control it yourself, and the supercharger bypass valve. For the bypass valve, you could just have the original valve hang around somewhere in the engine bay with the connector connected. It'll be all flappity flapping while not connected to anything.

This is what I mean with "player 2 with controller unplugged" strategy. Just put dummy controls on the original ECU so it thinks it's actually commanding fuel injectors etc.

If you get all of this right, in theory the original ECU will not realise anything is off and throw no codes.


This is what I'll be working on, for now it's all theory and we'll see in the near future whether that theory works in practice. I also aim to produce base maps usable for anyone to start tuning their facelift R170 SLK230 however this basic theory can be applied to any car in existence.

If your car is simpler than a Mercedes, you'll likely not need to bother with this at all. Just yank the original ECU out and run only the standalone. Unfortunately we drive complex cars, so we have to be a little more considerate.

This theory will work for any car you wish to maintain the original ECU, for example if you want to retain OBD2 emissions monitoring.
 
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Great explanation, it's all understandable and all makes sense. As you likely know for some cars, particularly Japanese, an extra ECU called a piggy back can be fitted while retaining the original ECU. Not sure how tuning is done but I assume that only the piggy back is relevant. I guess that if emulators were available they could be used instead of the idle original injectors et al.

The only problem that could arise is with the auto transmission not getting all the necessary inputs from the engine?
 
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