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[Research project] ECU modifications without remap

608 Views 17 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  zeWaardt
Good evening!

I’ve started a little research project. I want to make my SLK faster, just like how I make every car I own a bit faster :D

One important part of this, is ECU remapping. Tossing on a pulley to spin the supercharger faster and installing a more beefy intercooler is one thing, but you’ll be lacking fueling especially at the top of the rev range.

Unfortunately for me, there are no tuners in my area that want to work on a car this old. Also, any future modifications I make will mean going back to the tuner and paying a nice bill.

This is geared specifically towards the facelift SLK230. On the pre-facelift it was possible to replace the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail to help out with fueling. The post-facelift has the fuel regulator built into the fuel pump assembly. It’s still possible to modify this, but it’s a bit harder.

Having experience with ECU programming myself, I decided to look at things I can do myself. Now this will be a very slowly updating topic, but I thought I’d let you ride with me and see where things go. I’d love to mess with this car a bit more and see how far I can get.


I have previously built an Arduino based throttle body injection ECU for my old-timer Skoda. It worked using a DIY crankshaft position sensor and trigger wheel and a throttle body from a 1998 Opel Astra 1.6.

I used 5v sensors so I could easily read them using my Arduino, used a H-bridge to control the idle air motor in the throttle body and used a MOSFET to trigger the fuel injector.

It then ran using a pre-programmed map, no o2 sensor. Basically an electronic carburettor. I implemented some very basic idle learning, but the rest of the map was trail and error from modifying an existing map for a similar engine.



Now back to the Mercedes. Unfortunately getting the required stuff to remap the stock ECU myself costs a real pretty penny. I’m looking at piggyback solutions. Either through a piggyback ECU, or an Arduino based system I can develop myself.

These are the goals I’m looking to achieve:

  • Alter injector duty cycle when under boost to fix the leaning out that occurs when installing a bigger pulley
  • Keep the Mercedes ECU in full control during cruising, as the engine is running mostly atmospheric or under very light boost during these scenarios.
  • Alter ignition timing for a 98 octane tune.
  • Possibly, obtain control of the recirculation flap to stop the ECU from pulling boost.

There are different ways I can achieve this, but there are also hurdles.
The Mercedes ECU is pretty picky and pretty smart. If it detects anything is off, it will immediately throw a code and possibly throw the car into limp mode.


Let’s first look at fueling.

A common way to try to get a car to inject more fuel, is by modifying the MAF signal to the ECU. This won’t work on the Mercedes. When installing a pulley, the car is already aware of the extra air that is flowing, but due to it reverting back to a simpler base map under WOT and full boost it’s not really taking these values into account that much.

A second issue is boost cut. Above a certain voltage from the MAF sensor, the ECU will go into limp mode as it considers it an overboost situation. Therefor modifying MAF signal going into the ECU is not really viable.


Another method, and the method I want to try is modifying the injector duty cycle. When the car is going WOT and above a certain RPM, I’d like to capture the injector pulse signals coming from the ECU and post-process them. Let’s say the ECU is saying the injectors should open for 5ms every x amount of milliseconds. I want to read this signal, and apply a correction factor to it. So let’s say, I’ll add 0.5ms to it.

The actual signal going to the injectors will be 5.5ms. The ECU will be none the wiser any of this is happening. The only important bit here is only apply the correction factor during WOT and full boost, but keep the Mercedes ECU in full control during any other part of the drive.

This should hopefully keep it from registering it and adjusting the fuel trims if my theory that the car isn’t looking much at the O2 sensors during WOT is correct.


How am I going to do all of this? I’m not sure. I was thinking of using an Arduino to sniff the signal and either have it pass it through unmodified (during cruising) or pass it through with the correction factor during WOT.

Another option is to use an off-the-shelf piggyback ECU that is capable of driving the injectors. Either solution will enable me to build a new map that gets applied on top of the Mercedes stock ECU map.

One thing I don’t know yet, is whether the Mercedes is using batch fire or sequential injection when at WOT. (whether it fires all injectors at once, or controls them individually).

Many cars revert to batch fire under high load. Does anyone maybe know how the Mercedes ECU does that? If not, I’ll hook up a scope to the injectors some day.


As for timing, I have not looked into how I might achieve that.


That’s it for now, there are no doubt people smarter than me on this forum so drop your thoughts if you have any!

If in the end I can make this work, I’d like to share all the information about it so anyone can replicate it themselves.
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That's a lot of work when you could buy the tools to access the ECU, though I admire the ambition, I have only recently dived into modifying my pre facelift. You can fit the fuel rail from the pre facelift onto the post facelift, with some modifications, and then just have a new for. Here's a write up that helped me decently.

I found it in a forum on Benz world I'm pretty sure.

Other than that I'm pretty sure even with the facelift you can use ktag and Kess to just modify the ECU yourself, if you have the ability to setup a completely separate system you should be able to handle it. I'm not too knowledgeable myself though.

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The reason I'm going with a DIY solution is because getting the required equipment and software to modify maps yourself is quite expensive.

As far as I can tell, both K-TAG and KESS v2 can only read and write files. Most devices require you to either send the file for tuning, or buy obscenely expensive software to modify the map yourself. I find that information on this is hard to find, often very secretive about how it actually works and it seems that most tools use proprietary files.

Alientech's software to modify the files it reads costs €2200 on the cheapest website I can find.


As for simply swapping the fuel rail, installing the pump assembly from a pre-facelift model and using an in-line fuel pressure regulator also works, but this solves just one of the things: fueling.

I also want to be able to control timing, and ideally the recirculation flap.


Since I'm really not a fan of all the closed-source, secretive hardware and software most companies seem to sell I want to develop an open-source option that is cheap and easy to use for anyone.
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The reason I'm going with a DIY solution is because getting the required equipment and software to modify maps yourself is quite expensive.

As far as I can tell, both K-TAG and KESS v2 can only read and write files. Most devices require you to either send the file for tuning, or buy obscenely expensive software to modify the map yourself. I find that information on this is hard to find, often very secretive about how it actually works and it seems that most tools use proprietary files.

Alientech's software to modify the files it reads costs €2200 on the cheapest website I can find.


As for simply swapping the fuel rail, installing the pump assembly from a pre-facelift model and using an in-line fuel pressure regulator also works, but this solves just one of the things: fueling.

I also want to be able to control timing, and ideally the recirculation flap.


Since I'm really not a fan of all the closed-source, secretive hardware and software most companies seem to sell I want to develop an open-source option that is cheap and easy to use for anyone.
You can get a bundle with ktag and Kess together with software for 180. A c3 das setup is another 180 and comes with software. As far as I know it's not secretive at all and there's a member here who knows all about it once you get the tools.
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You can get a bundle with ktag and Kess together with software for 180. A c3 das setup is another 180 and comes with software. As far as I know it's not secretive at all and there's a member here who knows all about it once you get the tools.
@Dave2302 is the expert on it as far as I know.
I’d love to learn more about it then!
Continuing with my own plan, I’ve purchased a cheap DET 3 ECU.

It’s gonna run alongside the OEM ECU in a sort of hybrid mode. The ECU seems capable of everything I need it to do.

This ECU will enable me to gain both control of fueling and ignition timing. I’ve also ordered an overdrive pulley for the kompressor, let’s see what kind of power gains I can make on the cheap.

If my project ends up working out, I will share all the files so fellow users can recreate it.

If all turns out to be a massive failure, I’ll simply install the DET 3 in my rally Skoda :)
That would be a bit more reliable than the current Arduino based EFI I have.
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So it will be a piggy back arrangement like are available for some cars to hook up with the original ECU. Interesting.
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So it will be a piggy back arrangement like are available for some cars to hook up with the original ECU. Interesting.
The plan is to have them work side-by-side and have the original ECU do most of the work while the piggyback controls fueling and small ignition timing modifications.

The DET 3 has since arrived, the wiring looms I ordered should arrive soon and then I’ll start hooking everything up.

I’m no stranger to mapping fuel and VE tables from scratch so if it comes to that it’ll be fine, but I hope to reverse engineer the OEM ECU’s tables through scoping the signals.

If the looms come in today, I’m gonna attempt to get the car started on the DET 3.
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So here's where I'm at:

Got the DET 3 partially wired in. Have most of the sensors hooked up and calibrated. Ran out of time to get the injectors wired, but reading the signals is going well so far.
I'm gonna make the injector wiring loom tomorrow and fire the car up on the DET 3.

Right now all signals are shared between both ECUs, eventually I will have the crank signal pass through the DET 3 so I can modify it go gain control over timing.
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I've had a little slowdown as I had some trouble getting reliable information from the MAP sensor. I've now figured that out and calculated a VE table. I ran out of time to actually hook up the injectors. Hopefully I can do that tomorrow, but I'm a little short on time.
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So I started doing some testing to make sure all my sensor input was reliable before switching fuel control to the DET 3, however I quickly ran into an issue.

Something is going wrong with the crankshaft position sensor signal.
I am sharing the VR crankshaft position sensor with the DET 3. However, as soon as I connect either side of the VR sensor to the DET 3 the car instantly goes into what seems to be limp mode.

No troublecodes are set, the car seems to run fine, but the kompressor bypass valve opens and the car makes no boost.

I THINK this might be caused by excessive interference in the wiring, but I'm not sure. I'll have to do some poking around.
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I think I’ve found a solution to the issue. It looks like the problem is a desync between the signal and the ground of the crankshaft position sensor. The engine will still run just fine as the signal can still be used for the OEM ECU to do all it’s math, but since the high side and the ground are desynced it causes the ECU to conclude there is a fault with the sensor so it decides to play it safe.

The OEM ECU sees both signals, but I was only sniffing the high-side signal with the DET 3. This probably causes the high-side signal to get slightly affected. The OEM ECU sees this change and treats it as a faulty sensor.

I’m gonna try passing the signal through the DET 3 instead of simply sniffing it. This would be the end-goal anyway, as this is what will allow timing control. The DET 3 will get the high-side signal of the crankshaft position sensor, and will generate an all new signal (both high side and low side) for the OEM ECU that is perfectly in sync. This way the OEM ECU should be none the wiser the signal is not coming from the original sensor, but coming from the DET 3 instead.

Contacting another Mercedes guy also running a piggyback ECU (although a different one), he had great success with doing it this way. While my unit is more advanced and has standalone ECU capabilities, his piggyback-only solution gave him some control over timing and sensor values allowing him to trick the car into advancing the timing and injecting more fuel.


I‘m gonna try this as soon a I have time. I hope this way the OEM ECU will not jump into limp mode.
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I’ve attempted wiring in the DET 3 as in this guide:


But I cannot prevent the car from setting a crankshaft position sensor circuit fault. Doing anything with the crankshaft signal at all throws the car into limp mode, or it starts disregarding the sensor’s info which causes very poor starting, unstable idle and limp mode.

Does anyone have information on what I would need to remap the actual OEM ECU myself? That might be the way to go after all.

I’m still gonna continue trying with this DET 3, but if it doesn’t work out I‘m gonna toss it into my Skoda.

The car is splendid fast as is with the larger pulley, but I’m concerned about two things:

  • Lean mixture
  • The fact that the ECU pulls the timing an eye watering 3.5 degrees when intake air temperature reaches 35 degrees celcius. This seriously hurts the car’s performance in our warm weather and is totally uncalled for; this is way too conservative.
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I know nothing but could there be another sensor which signal has to operate in conjunction with the crankshaft sensor?
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I've talked to some other people and they are saying it's very likely the ECU has tamper protection on the crankshaft signal, thus as soon as anything is changed about it it trips into limp mode.

What I've done now, is tapped off the camshaft signal to get an RPM reading. It isn't as accurate as a crank signal and not really ideal as this only provides one single trigger per crankshaft revolution, but I have been able to use this to test. Now that I have the car running with full boost I've logged some data again and built a new VE table.

In theory, this should allow me to control the fuel injectors albeit not with great timing accuracy.

Unfortunately this kills any possibilities of controlling spark using the DET 3. Unless I can figure out how to edit the OEM ECU (I'm gonna be honest here, having only had experience with aftermarket ECUs this is out of my skill range for now) the best possible solution would be to get a proper standalone ECU, attach a second trigger wheel and crank sensor onto the engine and use that to completely take over spark and ignition control from the OEM ECU.

The standalone would then control fuel and spark completely independently, while the OEM ECU and wiring stays completely intact and the OEM ECU keeps controlling boost. The outputs from the OEM ECU to the ignition coils and fuel injectors will just be dead. This will provide another challenge as to trick the original ECU into thinking there are still fuel injectors and ignition coils connected, but this should not be too hard.

I think the DET 3 is eventually gonna end up in my Skoda, which used to be a carburetted car with zero sensors so nothing that is capable of complaining.
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Someone here was playing with a stand alone ECU to do sort of what you said but it was a while ago and I forget anything that would help in a search. Other than the words stand alone, aftermarket, ECU.
Someone here was playing with a stand alone ECU to do sort of what you said but it was a while ago and I forget anything that would help in a search. Other than the words stand alone, aftermarket, ECU.
I think you mean this topic:


Yeah I did use some info from this topic. He completely replaced the original ECU though, so in his case while the car does move but a lot doesn't work.
Ideally I'd like to leave the original ECU in place to handle the more complex things and the gauge cluster while having another unit do fueling and ignition timing.

Did also get some info from someone running a piggyback on a pre-facelift SLK, but it looks like the facelift model SLK has a much more picky ECU that may have tamper protection.

I did hook up the fuel injectors to my DET 3 while using the cam signal as a crank trigger. The battery was fairly weak so I didn't have the time to set up cranking behaviour, but I did get a few puffs out of it and it almost started.

I'm afraid the cam signal is not in time enough to allow the engine to run properly. If it starts and the RPM rises it might run somewhat decent as port injection is quite tolerant to improperly timed injection (that's how cars with batch fire injection run anyway), but with only a single crank trigger per two engine revolutions it might just not be able to time the injections right during cranking.

Perhaps with a charged battery and some time to configure cranking behaviour I might get the car to run but I'm not sure if it's worth proceeding with this. One solution to make the DET 3 work is attaching a second trigger wheel and sensor to the engine, but this will still only allow me to control fueling as the DET 3 is not capable of driving ignition without help from the original ECU.

It's a shame the original VR signal from the crank seems unusable, if that was usable I would be all set and have a running car right now. That's literally the only thing stopping me from running the DET 3 on this car.
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