Could someone post up the part number for this pump?

 

Trixter,

I had a similar problem with the sec.pump.
In my case there was a wire damaged which caused a short-circuit.
Btw the sec pump only runs for a few seconds when the engine is cold.
Therefor the light didnt pop up in the shop after the restart; engine still warm...

Remove front engine cover and see if the 1" rubber tube is connected/leaking.
Remove the second cover and check the wiring-loom at the valvecover bolts.
Unplug all the connectors you can find at the front of the engine and clean
Now open the engine fusebox and check the 5(?)Amp fuse.

Hope this helps....
Happy hunting!

Ben

 

Thanks for the info Ben, I won't get a chance to check it till the weekend, I hope its a simple fix.

 

010 0001405185 AIR PUMP 001


http://www.neoriginal.ru/cat/mb/part_CCODE_1_1_63F_272_963_/14_105_171_456_963

(lets see how long it takes the moddrtr to delete this post)


Ben.

 

Hi all,

i have the same - CEL and error code P0410.

I replaced the MAF today as ... well as guessing and have had issues with these on past Mercs.

My car is a 2005 done 32k it feels all ok to drive, where is the actual secondary air part located?

any help would be great

 

99% sure the secondary air pump is only used on cold starts to get the cat's up to temperature -

 

ah ok,

do you know where it is located?

 

If you remove the front part of the engine cover, the pump is right in front of you, top front of the engine. I did a check on mine today and couldnt see anything visibly wrong at the pump ( bad connections, burst hoses etc ) and i didnt have any dead fuses. I ran a diagnostic again and cleared the CEL, we'll see how long it stays out this time.

 

Thanks - will check my hoses tomorrow.

I checked my fuses all seemed ok too, do you know which is the relay as might swap that too.

 

The Air Pump relay is N10/1kO -- Relay "O" in the Left-side SAM.

 

I've got the same problem after putting the damn "Premium" arco gas in my SLK (It seems like there is no connection between 2 things but that's the only thing I can thing of, my car was working fine before that). I had to changed the secondary air pump and relay at mercedes dealer (I bought the parts online and have them changed for me). It's about $120 for labor and 450 for the air pump, i don't remember the price of the relay.
GOOD LUCK.

IMPORTEC.COM
Item Number Description Price 000 140 51 85 Air Pump $411.20 Sub-Total: $411.20 Shipping Cost $14.85 Total: $426.05

 

am thinking new airpump..

Just out of interest.... what is relay M for? as its the same part no as O and thought i could swap as part of the elimination process?

 

HI all,

ok ive been looking under the bonnet and can hear what sounds like air escaping - ive checked the hoses i can see...

as you look into the engine bay the noise appears to be coming from the right hand side of the car, but i cant see anything split or loose - sounds like it maybe below the actual engine..

are there air intake pipes on this side of the car|? or is it the aircon on that side?

 

here is a pic of where i mean.

 

Relay M is "Circuit 15R Relay", which powers lots of interior components, including the restraint system.

 

I had my car at the garage yesterday, but he had gremlins in his diagnostic equipment so it will be back in next week sometime.Ill keep you posted with the outcome.

 

did you get any further with your garage?

im pretty sure mine is a air pipe leak as i can hear what sounds like air getting out.......

I cant see anything from looking into the engine bay so may need to go under the car

dont suppose anyone has a image of the air intake pipe diagram do they...

 

did you get any further with your garage?

Im waiting till he gets his MUX back from being repaired...so should get it in next week

 

I'm writing this post about my experience to hopefully save everyone an expensive and unnecessary repair to their SLK 350 and probably other MB models. The secondary air pump has nothing to do with how the car performs and it made me mad that I had to spend a chunk of change on this just so I could get my inspection sticker.

The check engine light came on on my 2006 SLK 350 around 43K miles. I went to Autozone to pull the codes and found the P0410 Secondary air pump codewas the culprit. I went to the dealer and they wanted $200 just to look at it (Park Place Mercedes) after I told them I already knew what the problem was.

I started searching and found similar issues. I wanted to find out what caused it. I bypassed the fuse and found the air pump was pulling almost 100amps, wow!! I pulled the pump, opened it up and found it was fried. There was black dust all over the cover and I even found pieces of copper windings. The cause IMO, burnt contacts on the relay "O". While I was diagnosing the problem, I popped the cap off the relay and I could see the contacts were burnt.I checked with Park Place Mercedes parts department and they wanted $850 for a new pump and $38 for the relay :td: . Went online and got the pump for half of that and the relay for $6.

I installed the new pump and when I tested it I was surprised to find the pump was pulling +-40amps while it was injecting air (first 30sec from a cold start) and about 22amps when I ran it while the valves were closed and it wasn't able to push air (direct connect from the battery, the pump blades stall and uses less power). I immediately thought there was something wrong and that the Amperage was way to high and it would burn up the pump motor again (I couldn't find any specs on the motor of how much current it should draw). I was worried there may be another bad connection, so I made a harness directly from the battery and found the pump actually pulls about +-40amps at 14.1V (that voltage is when the alternator is charging after a start). Personally I find this current draw way to much for the relay, harness, connectors and pump. To me it's just a matter of time before one of the components/connections fail again.

To save everyone $$$, my advise is to change the relay every year or two and check the contacts regularly. A $6 relay could save you about $500 in repairs if you do it yourself and about $1500 from a dealer.

While doing research on this I found other causes for P0410. If the relay and pump motor are fine, but the pump isn't pushing air, check the small blue check valve on the vacuum lines and that the exhaust valves are actually opening in the first 30sec after a cold start. Also check all connectors, the neg wire off the pump and the fuse and it's contacts. The way this system was designed, it's going to fail sooner or later. Check/replace the relay often and save some $.

 

I installed the new pump and when I tested it I was surprised to find the pump was pulling +-40amps while it was injecting air (+-first 30sec from a cold start) and about 22amps when I ran it while the valves were closed and it wasn't able to push air (direct connect from the battery, the pump cavitates and should use less power). I thought there was something wrong and that the Amperage was way to high and it would burn up the pump motor again (I couldn't find any specs on the motor of how much current it should draw). I thought it may be a bad connection somewhere, so I mad a harness directly from the battery and found the pump actually pulls about +-40amps at 14.1V when the alternator is charging after a start. Personally I find this current draw way to much for the relay, harness, connectors and pump. To me it's just a matter of time before one of the components/connections fail again.

Can you tell me what fuse supplies power to the secondary air pump? The reason I ask is that I had thought it was fuse number 53 in the engine compartment but that is only a 25 amp fuse. Also, as best I can tell there is only one fuse larger than 40 amps in the car and that is fuse number 59 which is dedicated to the ABS system. So I’m not sure how the systems can be drawing 40 amps through fuses which are max rated at 40 amps and would generally be designed/expected to see less than 70% of their rated value. Thanks.

Bob

 

Spoke,

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Thanks for the info Spoke...as it turns out, my CEL went out of its own accord a couple of days after i took it to the garage (he couldnt repair it at the time because hix MUX was playing up) and touch wood....it hasnt come back on.

 

Spoke,
You may be onto something here. Just out of abject curiosity I removed and opened my relay. There is a small but indisputable burn inside the plastic cover! The adjacent area is highlighted.

Question: how did you measure the current draw?

High Res photos here

 

Spoke,
You may be onto something here. Just out of abject curiosity I removed and opened my relay. There is a small but indisputable burn inside the plastic cover! The adjacent area is highlighted.

Question: how did you measure the current draw?

High Res photos here

efair and others replace the relay asap. It's not worth the expensive repair of replacing the pump for a $6 relay.


The stock relay is defective in my opinion. The problem with the stock relay is the core of the coil sticks out to far and stops the spring contact to fully close once the contacts get slightly worn from arcing(does not pull the contacts together hard enough). I think you guys are right, the relay contacts get so hot from a weak contact that they may of got stuck and and the pump ran continuously and burnt itself out. My relay contacts were shot! You'll see the replacement relay is a different brand from the stock TYCO and the core doesn't stick out as far. The contacts on the new relay would have to burn away completely before the core stops them from closing. MB obviously knows about the problem otherwise they wouldn't of changed relay brands, but they would never tell us would they?


I used my FLUKE 337 to measure the current. It's a very useful tool. It measures up to 1000A DC. I used the harness wire (brown/white I think) from the connector next to the relay to measure the current in the circuit. I also made a 8AWG harness directly from the battery to the pump and got the same 40A draw so I assumed the harness did not have any shorts or bad connections. I'm hoping someone with a ammeter capable of measuring +50A could measure the current and confirm it. If you have a shunt type ammeter you could connect it where the 40A fuse goes. You have to measure the current within the first 30-40sec from a cold start so everything has to be in place or you'll have to wait for the engine to cool down again for the valves to open. While i had it connected to the battery harness and the exhaust valves closed (the pump blades stall) and the current dropped to around 22A.

Gotcha - not sure which would be easiest to get to. FYI, WIS says 35amp nominal load, so I can see 40amps at startup and the relay is rated at 50 amps sustained.

On the earlier comment - I'm not sure I understand how a bad relay could cause anything to draw "more" current. I do understand how a bad or fused relay could cause the motor to constantly run and burn out the pump motor.

It looks like to me the ECU monitor throws a warning if the pump does not come on, or if the pump does not go off. This is a supposition based on the troubleshooting notes, not anything explicitly stated...

UK-C200, could you send me the link of the specs for the pump. I couldn't find them. At 12.7V the current is around 35-36A so it sounds correct. If you bump that up to 14.1V charging voltage (I had one of my other FLUKE's measuring the voltage) the current moves up to around 40A when the valves are open and it's pumping hard. Those numbers line up when I calculate it using the circuits resistance (another FLUKE lol). Only problem is the circuit is working near its limit at 14.1V. When I ran the direct harness from the battery and the valves close and the pump blades stall, the current dropped to around 22A. About the bad relay= more current, I agree and I think I meant to say if there was a short in the circuit/harness=more current. It was late I was trying to rule out the possibility of a short in the harness without taking it apart.

Looks like the answer is different relays for these two. As best I can tell the relay for the SLK350 is part number 002 542 26 19 and SLK55 part number I have is 002 542 65 19.

Bob

The SLK55 may have a different pump, and the current draw may be totally different? If it's the same pump the current draw is directly related to how the much air it's pushing (or how hard it's working).

Anyway, I'm thinking of restricting the pumps airflow to reduce the current in the circuit to around 30A. The pumps motor doesn't get much cooling from airflow other than from the mounting plate so I don't see a problem other than the emissions system throwing another code? Any thoughts?

 

Actually, that looks pretty normal - when you close a relay with 40a of load, you are going to have some arcing. To measure the load, you need an amp meter rated at > 40 amps (sorry, I've seen to many fried in the past to "assUme!") and a place to connect it in series to the circuit you want to measure.

On the bench, I use a relay socket / plug pair, where you plug the relay plug into the circuit, the relay into the socket, and the ammeter inbetween the two...

 

I'm wondering if he did it in situ or not, at the relay, or at the pump.

 

Gotcha - not sure which would be easiest to get to. FYI, WIS says 35amp nominal load, so I can see 40amps at startup and the relay is rated at 50 amps sustained.

On the earlier comment - I'm not sure I understand how a bad relay could cause anything to draw "more" current. I do understand how a bad or fused relay could cause the motor to constantly run and burn out the pump motor.

It looks like to me the ECU monitor throws a warning if the pump does not come on, or if the pump does not go off. This is a supposition based on the troubleshooting notes, not anything explicitly stated...

 

Is this limited to the 350 or is it the same relay across all engine types.

 

Looks like the answer is different relays for these two. As best I can tell the relay for the SLK350 is part number 002 542 26 19 and SLK55 part number I have is 002 542 65 19.

Bob

 

Who is the manufacturer of the replacement relay?

 

"Hella", It has a black cover. MB #0025422619. Do a search for that number and you will find it online for $6.64 or maybe less. While I was waiting for it to arrive, I bought a relay at NAPA (no markings on it) with the same pins and current rating. The number doesn't cross-reference on NAPA's computer system, but when I looked through their book I found it.

FYI - another thread about the relay issue C32 Smog Pump - Issue - MBWorld.org Forums

also check SERVICE CAMPAIGN 2006030011