Serial communication link malfunction, sorry thats out of my league.

 

Ok, so after a bit more testing, I think I have the problem isolated.

It only happens when I start the car with a power drain active. That is, the heater at full speed, Smart Top already moving or other electric device pulling energy from the battery.

I had already pulled the code off google to find it is the Serial Communication error, or Link malfunction....but the range of fixes I read were ideas from "replace x fuse" to "replace battery" to "reflash ECU" and even something about an "infamous wiring harness issue".

I cleared the check engine codes and it doesn't pop back on unless I start the car with other stuff on. i turned off the master switch for the SmartTop and the RemoteStart....even though I think the only one of the two that could possibly be causing my issue is the SmartTop. The reason I think this is because I have seen a post or two linking this problem towards the car's CAN bus....and since SmartTop links in there, maybe mine is shorting out or something.

Gonna drive for a few more days and see if the Check engine light comes back on.

 

If I were you, I'd open the hood, let the car go to sleep - about 15 minutes with doors closed, key out, etc, and then check the voltage of the battery, and then the current draw. You should have a very "sleep" draw - like less than 500ma.

If you have a higher draw, I'd start pulling fuses till you figure out what circuit it's on.

Other option is to run to a dealer or Indy who has SDS, and have them see what's up - they should be able to tell you exactly what device is throwing the error. I **think** P0600 is CAN-C, but I'm not at home, and don't have WIS to go play with..

 

danieleik,

I was wondering if you ever solved your problem. I think I havea similar issues as I describe below. I was wondering if you could give some operating experience based on your issue. thanks

Instrument panel randomly shut off W209 CLK500 Conv

2005 CLK 500 Convertible with 115k miles.

One of my light bulbs (the one that stays lit at night after turning of the car) burned out and I replaced it with a similar looking bulb before going to work.

On my way to work as I’m driving all of a sudden my instrument cluster shut off (the outside temperature and odometer still displayed but was not updating the miles driven). Also my radio shut off but I was able to turn it back on. I also heard the fan (believe it’s the radiator fan) working really hard since there was a lot of noise coming from the engine. I shut of the car and restarted and everything was back to normal.

On the way back from work the same thing happened but the car did not start right away. The key would not want to turn as if there wasn’t any electrical power at all. It eventually started on the 3rd or 4th try.

I came home and removed the light bulb I installed. The next day (day 2) the car worked without and problems.

Today (day 3) I took the light bulb from the good headlight and placed it in the burned out headlight and it worked. I also took the spare light bulb that I had previously tried to install to see if it would work one more time but it did not and I took it out. On my way to work the same thing happened as on the day 1, but this time it happened 2 times and when I arrived at work and restarted the car the check engine light came one.

I must also mention that for a while my info center on the instrument cluster has been displaying that I have several malfunctions associated with lights being either out or working when they are not supposed. I visually inspect it they all work fine, but it keeps telling me side markers lights are out or that the backup light is on when in actuality the side marker lights are on and the reverse light is not on.

 

rigal53,

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Rigal-

I think I have my problem isolated to an issue with power draw through the CANBUS. I'm almost positive that SmartTop is the issue, probably because of an error in installation on my part. I plan on tearing everything apart soon to re-check my installation.

It sounds like our problems are very similar. They both are probably caused by too much power being pulled at some point in the car, and some sort of "Breaker" being toggled. It's obviously not a fuse blowing, or the problem would persist.

Sorry if my info doesn't help much. GL with your Headlight issue.

 

I have a problem with the radiator fan staying on, can anyone advise.SLK 230 R170. If its the radiator thermostat, where is it located.
Thanks.

 

Welcome from New Hampshire, how old is the battery? also do a search for the K40 board its a known issue with the pre facelift models.

 

Stephen,


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