So I've been looking for a 171 2005 SLK 55 AMG and finally purchased one the other day. Over the past month or so I've seen no less than 8 different cars and travelled some ridiculous miles in the process. I've also been utterly demoralised in the process to the point where I wasn't going to bother looking and coming to a conclusion that I'm way to OCD to own a 12 year old car.. Patience is a virtue however and persistence is key.
Anyway, thought I would share some knowledge of the things I check for when looking at these cars, comprehensively.
I'll pre warn the guide / checks is not only a long read but they take on average 50-60 minutes for me to do, so may take much longer to someone not used to checking over cars. I'll also pre warn that most sellers will wonder what on earth's going on. They'll get a bit twitchy but these are not cheap cars and can be expensive to fix so it's worth spending the time to give them a decent check over, especially if buying privately. You can only buy once, so buy right.
I also admit, as much as I've tried to cover everything there will invariably be lots of things I've missed out - not to mention plenty of typos and poor grammar.. and things others may/may not agree with. If people want to add to this please feel free to share things you have picked up when looking for/ living with the 171. I've in no way researched this as a topic as such, it's purely from memory over my 12 years working for Mercedes / 16 years in the trade and last month or so of picking up things whilst checking them over.
Hope this helps some folks out.
Chris
Pre checks, before viewing:
Contact seller directly and have a chat, you can also re ask these questions when viewing, to get more specific answers & dig deeper, more specifically catch them out. This is mainly bias towards private sellers as dealers will tell you everything you want to hear & more to get you in so don't spend too long on the phone to them as they're experts at BS, better off just getting down there and looking yourself.
ALWAYS ask to make sure the engine cold before arrival, as in left over night cold, not for a few hours prior to you turning up - feel the engine to be sure it is stone cold!
(IF DEALER ) Ask generally about specification of the car, overall condition, additional options, how long it's been on forecourt, how they acquired it, former keepers, what prep/repairs they've done, any known faults, service history, ask about warranty and additional warranty with the car.
(If PRIVATE) why they're selling, how long they've owned it, how regular it's used, any recent repairs/servicing, any major bills during their ownership, former keepers, how long until next service if everything works electrically, paint/wheel condition (ask them to be OCD), ask if they've been on any trips in the car and try and basically gauge the feeling of the seller, get them to open up. The guy I purchased my car off I talked to for almost an hour before I travelled a 6 hour round trip for. You can soon tell someone that is genuine and selling to someone who is trying to hide things, dodge questions etc. You want an honest seller.
I'll just add a note here, Pistonheads PhoneSAFE service - if calling from a mobile charge up ÂŁ1.04 per MINUTE! Ask me how I know!
(THINGS TO CHECK PRIOR )
HPI - Is it clear? (Only do this if you're serious about purchasing, it's ÂŁ20 a check) I put it here as it's important but I've done it when I've decided I actually want to purchase. If dealer, they should supply but check date and ask to see a physical copy.
Check MOT database, look to see if MOT's have been regular & annually. If advisories have been issued, have they been re-issued the following year or not? When does current MOT expire? Use this to gauge if prev owner has maintained car at no expensive or Not, if advisories keep reoccuring.
Get insurance quote, It can vary year to year - car to car - day to day - always worth checking.
Tax - again can vary year to year, specifically pre 3/06 cars being cheaper tax.
En route:
Call the dealer/seller tell them you're coming. More importantly re illiterate and tell them not to start the car or move it. You want the engine to be stone cold.
Arrival - Checks:
Service history - get the book and ask for any other accompanying documents/receipts. Run through the service book, checking the dates firstly - should be a date ~roughly~ annually since -1 year of registration to current date. Then run back through the book and check additional extras due and if they've been done when they're were supposed to be.
Oil & Filter - Annually/ maybe more if low mileage and Assyst specified
BF & Combi/Pollen filter: Every 2 years
Plugs: 50k / 5 year
Coolant: 15 years
Gearbox Fluid & filter: 37,500/40K
If invoices are present, see if they match-up with service book/stamps. Also more recently if the car has had a vehicle health check (VHC) along with the service at a dealer, they will quote for the work. If the work has been identified check the invoice to see if it's been carried out. If not, ask to see if there is another receipt for the work. If private, ask why they didn't have it done. If it's a dealer, just make a mental note of what the work was and the severity of it not being completed when identified. Check other invoices for any major repair work and all small receipts for tyres, MOT etc gives a good idea that it's been looked after. Ideally again you want to build a picture of the car and if it's been maintained regardless of expense.
Do they have all the owners manual and case, also should be sat nav disc case, soft microfiber cloth for dashboard and Locking wheel nut + case.
Interior/First engine start:
Bolsters for wear / rips (common)
No warning lights/error messages on cluster.
Check both keys work unlock/lock car
Leather condition, for tears, creases, marks, damage etc.
Carpets, behind seats and foot wells for general condition - stains/marks MOST IMPORTANTLY DAMPNESS! Ensure dry. Don't be afraid to push down hard on the carpet.
As above - for the boot. Check the back and sides of the boot, reach in and feel if wet. Empty out the false floor, spare wheel, and polystyrene tool holder. Pull it out until you can see metal floor, check for water. You won't see many completely dry ones, but you don't want it to be swimming in there. Whilst here check all tools are present, you should have a small bag of fuses, towing eye, compressor, jack, wrench, plastic bag to put wheel in & white cotton gloves etc. Check the tools and compressor ends for corrosion, a sign it may have leaked in the past.
Ensure locking key is present, check sat nav DVD (eject from nav unit in boot). Check version is it up to date? May also have a wind deflector here.
Check dashboard, door cards, console for marking/stains. Check the outer edge of the doorcards as these can be very susceptible to damage.
Fun bit: Checking literally every single button in the car. BUT FIRST! Ignition on, check oil level on dash board. Then open bonnet and start the car. Listen attentively, it helps if you've heard a few. You will always hear the secondary air pump, sounds like a hairdryer for a minute or so, then it'll shut off and the engine should just purr. Naturally this engine has a slight 'whine' that is always there. They also aren't the smoothest engines in the world by standard of a V8, they do idle ever so slightly 'off' - a tiny amount.
Back to the fun bit: With engine running check: windows, up & down - should be smooth and no noises when operating no clicking or roughness. Interior fan, all speeds (sometimes they sound like a bit of card is stuck in a fan, occasionally leaves and **** can get in the fan and make a fast ticking sound). Check all air outlets, top, feet, face, mixed. Check AC works and is icey cold. Check rear demister, heated seats (both) and airscarf if applicable. Leave heaters on for a few minutes and feel the rear screen and seats (bottom and back rest to see if warm). Check parktronic if applicable, get someone to walk around the car closely. Check COMAND, push MAP button, should show map screen if disc /nav is working. Turn up volume and shut doors, turn up bass on setting, listen to rattle etc, push all buttons, make sure they're not sticky. Check mirrors move all ways and fold in/out without any noises. Select reverse, handbrake off, foot on brake and see if passenger mirror dips on reverse and repositions when back in park 30 secs or so later. Check BOTH seats move all the way to each stop up down side to side etc and all memory functions work. Check steering column adjustment to each stop. Check ALL lights, specifically xenons look at the bulbs out the car, should be similar colour of white, check 3rd brake light and # plate lights as sometimes wiring in boot can break, check glovebox door - should open slowly, not drop. Check cd changer, push all the buttons, should be heard to be operating and moving to select positions. Check to see if iPod or AUX fitted to side of glovebox. Check to see if pre wiring fitted in car, is puck fitted? Expensive to buy! Check centre console opens both ways and upper console closes/opens ok. Check handbrake travel, should be roughly <5 clicks to stop, check headlamp washers and front washer/wiper, check cup holder and lower coin holder - both should eject slowly. Push steering wheel buttons, shouldn't be sticky, ensure volume control and menu functions work. Check outside temp is right, check when service is due next. Check mirrors and vanity lights work. On entry/exit to the car when the door is open, the seat & steering column (for 05 only) should move to exit positions. On 55+ onwards just the steering column will move, I have also noted a difference in the menu functions for these two different functions. Check mirrors fold on locking - if not, check the setting is selected in the cluster. Presence of bolts for space saver wheel and CORRECT lock nut for vehicle
Anyway, thought I would share some knowledge of the things I check for when looking at these cars, comprehensively.
I'll pre warn the guide / checks is not only a long read but they take on average 50-60 minutes for me to do, so may take much longer to someone not used to checking over cars. I'll also pre warn that most sellers will wonder what on earth's going on. They'll get a bit twitchy but these are not cheap cars and can be expensive to fix so it's worth spending the time to give them a decent check over, especially if buying privately. You can only buy once, so buy right.
I also admit, as much as I've tried to cover everything there will invariably be lots of things I've missed out - not to mention plenty of typos and poor grammar.. and things others may/may not agree with. If people want to add to this please feel free to share things you have picked up when looking for/ living with the 171. I've in no way researched this as a topic as such, it's purely from memory over my 12 years working for Mercedes / 16 years in the trade and last month or so of picking up things whilst checking them over.
Hope this helps some folks out.
Chris
Pre checks, before viewing:
Contact seller directly and have a chat, you can also re ask these questions when viewing, to get more specific answers & dig deeper, more specifically catch them out. This is mainly bias towards private sellers as dealers will tell you everything you want to hear & more to get you in so don't spend too long on the phone to them as they're experts at BS, better off just getting down there and looking yourself.
ALWAYS ask to make sure the engine cold before arrival, as in left over night cold, not for a few hours prior to you turning up - feel the engine to be sure it is stone cold!
(IF DEALER ) Ask generally about specification of the car, overall condition, additional options, how long it's been on forecourt, how they acquired it, former keepers, what prep/repairs they've done, any known faults, service history, ask about warranty and additional warranty with the car.
(If PRIVATE) why they're selling, how long they've owned it, how regular it's used, any recent repairs/servicing, any major bills during their ownership, former keepers, how long until next service if everything works electrically, paint/wheel condition (ask them to be OCD), ask if they've been on any trips in the car and try and basically gauge the feeling of the seller, get them to open up. The guy I purchased my car off I talked to for almost an hour before I travelled a 6 hour round trip for. You can soon tell someone that is genuine and selling to someone who is trying to hide things, dodge questions etc. You want an honest seller.
I'll just add a note here, Pistonheads PhoneSAFE service - if calling from a mobile charge up ÂŁ1.04 per MINUTE! Ask me how I know!
(THINGS TO CHECK PRIOR )
HPI - Is it clear? (Only do this if you're serious about purchasing, it's ÂŁ20 a check) I put it here as it's important but I've done it when I've decided I actually want to purchase. If dealer, they should supply but check date and ask to see a physical copy.
Check MOT database, look to see if MOT's have been regular & annually. If advisories have been issued, have they been re-issued the following year or not? When does current MOT expire? Use this to gauge if prev owner has maintained car at no expensive or Not, if advisories keep reoccuring.
Get insurance quote, It can vary year to year - car to car - day to day - always worth checking.
Tax - again can vary year to year, specifically pre 3/06 cars being cheaper tax.
En route:
Call the dealer/seller tell them you're coming. More importantly re illiterate and tell them not to start the car or move it. You want the engine to be stone cold.
Arrival - Checks:
Service history - get the book and ask for any other accompanying documents/receipts. Run through the service book, checking the dates firstly - should be a date ~roughly~ annually since -1 year of registration to current date. Then run back through the book and check additional extras due and if they've been done when they're were supposed to be.
Oil & Filter - Annually/ maybe more if low mileage and Assyst specified
BF & Combi/Pollen filter: Every 2 years
Plugs: 50k / 5 year
Coolant: 15 years
Gearbox Fluid & filter: 37,500/40K
If invoices are present, see if they match-up with service book/stamps. Also more recently if the car has had a vehicle health check (VHC) along with the service at a dealer, they will quote for the work. If the work has been identified check the invoice to see if it's been carried out. If not, ask to see if there is another receipt for the work. If private, ask why they didn't have it done. If it's a dealer, just make a mental note of what the work was and the severity of it not being completed when identified. Check other invoices for any major repair work and all small receipts for tyres, MOT etc gives a good idea that it's been looked after. Ideally again you want to build a picture of the car and if it's been maintained regardless of expense.
Do they have all the owners manual and case, also should be sat nav disc case, soft microfiber cloth for dashboard and Locking wheel nut + case.
Interior/First engine start:
Bolsters for wear / rips (common)
No warning lights/error messages on cluster.
Check both keys work unlock/lock car
Leather condition, for tears, creases, marks, damage etc.
Carpets, behind seats and foot wells for general condition - stains/marks MOST IMPORTANTLY DAMPNESS! Ensure dry. Don't be afraid to push down hard on the carpet.
As above - for the boot. Check the back and sides of the boot, reach in and feel if wet. Empty out the false floor, spare wheel, and polystyrene tool holder. Pull it out until you can see metal floor, check for water. You won't see many completely dry ones, but you don't want it to be swimming in there. Whilst here check all tools are present, you should have a small bag of fuses, towing eye, compressor, jack, wrench, plastic bag to put wheel in & white cotton gloves etc. Check the tools and compressor ends for corrosion, a sign it may have leaked in the past.
Ensure locking key is present, check sat nav DVD (eject from nav unit in boot). Check version is it up to date? May also have a wind deflector here.
Check dashboard, door cards, console for marking/stains. Check the outer edge of the doorcards as these can be very susceptible to damage.
Fun bit: Checking literally every single button in the car. BUT FIRST! Ignition on, check oil level on dash board. Then open bonnet and start the car. Listen attentively, it helps if you've heard a few. You will always hear the secondary air pump, sounds like a hairdryer for a minute or so, then it'll shut off and the engine should just purr. Naturally this engine has a slight 'whine' that is always there. They also aren't the smoothest engines in the world by standard of a V8, they do idle ever so slightly 'off' - a tiny amount.
Back to the fun bit: With engine running check: windows, up & down - should be smooth and no noises when operating no clicking or roughness. Interior fan, all speeds (sometimes they sound like a bit of card is stuck in a fan, occasionally leaves and **** can get in the fan and make a fast ticking sound). Check all air outlets, top, feet, face, mixed. Check AC works and is icey cold. Check rear demister, heated seats (both) and airscarf if applicable. Leave heaters on for a few minutes and feel the rear screen and seats (bottom and back rest to see if warm). Check parktronic if applicable, get someone to walk around the car closely. Check COMAND, push MAP button, should show map screen if disc /nav is working. Turn up volume and shut doors, turn up bass on setting, listen to rattle etc, push all buttons, make sure they're not sticky. Check mirrors move all ways and fold in/out without any noises. Select reverse, handbrake off, foot on brake and see if passenger mirror dips on reverse and repositions when back in park 30 secs or so later. Check BOTH seats move all the way to each stop up down side to side etc and all memory functions work. Check steering column adjustment to each stop. Check ALL lights, specifically xenons look at the bulbs out the car, should be similar colour of white, check 3rd brake light and # plate lights as sometimes wiring in boot can break, check glovebox door - should open slowly, not drop. Check cd changer, push all the buttons, should be heard to be operating and moving to select positions. Check to see if iPod or AUX fitted to side of glovebox. Check to see if pre wiring fitted in car, is puck fitted? Expensive to buy! Check centre console opens both ways and upper console closes/opens ok. Check handbrake travel, should be roughly <5 clicks to stop, check headlamp washers and front washer/wiper, check cup holder and lower coin holder - both should eject slowly. Push steering wheel buttons, shouldn't be sticky, ensure volume control and menu functions work. Check outside temp is right, check when service is due next. Check mirrors and vanity lights work. On entry/exit to the car when the door is open, the seat & steering column (for 05 only) should move to exit positions. On 55+ onwards just the steering column will move, I have also noted a difference in the menu functions for these two different functions. Check mirrors fold on locking - if not, check the setting is selected in the cluster. Presence of bolts for space saver wheel and CORRECT lock nut for vehicle