Jacking point rubber - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 07-13-2010
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Jacking point rubber

I was going to jack up the car to paint the brake calipers, but to save time i thought i would use my trolley jack.
Passenger side no problems but on the drivers side i found the back rubber jacking point just below the "normal" point was missing.
I have tried searching online but i don`t know the official name or part
number......anyone help with either please.

SLK R170 230K
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#2 Old 07-13-2010
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Several people here have made a wooden/plastic pad for their trolley jack. If you search the forum for "jack pad" you'll find some pics and dimensions.






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#3 Old 07-13-2010
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Yes thanks, i have looked at those.

But the fact still remains that one of my jack point plastic/rubber thingies is missing and i would like to get one which is why i asked for correct name and possibly a part number.

I have searched online but without these names/numbers its a pain.

I am sure there is a clever member out there who knows what i am trying to talk about
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#4 Old 07-14-2010
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Get a new one at Mercedes dealer. No one else will have them.
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#5 Old 07-14-2010
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I think the part number is in this article maybe someone who can read German could point out which parts you want ,Google seems to be having trouble translating it properly .
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#6 Old 10-16-2010
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Well, I thought it was part 160 in the attached diagram, A 002 997 79 86.

But it's not, because I just got one at the MB dealer and it's not the right part. I've been all over EPC & I can't find anything else that looks like that rubber part. I only have the left front on my car, the rest are all missing.

I guess next time I'll have to take the car to the dealer & let the parts guys figure it out. But yes, I think the plugs that are being removed in step 4 of that document is what we're looking for...
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File Type: pdf R170 Jacking Point Plug.pdf (215.4 KB, 201 views)

Last edited by atebit; 10-17-2010 at 12:29 AM.
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#7 Old 10-17-2010
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Think mebbe I found 'em on the benzworld forum:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170...ml#post4168775

A trip to EPC under the inscrutable category of "60 SHELL" leads to the more-scrutable sub-category of "EXPANSION PLUGS, GROMMETS" shows the part in the attached screen shot.

170-997-01-86 might be the droids we're looking for. Will give the dealer a call on Monday; my guess is these will have to be ordered, hopefully not from Germany...
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File Type: pdf R170 Jack Socket.pdf (215.6 KB, 91 views)
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#8 Old 10-17-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lkchris View Post
Get a new one at Mercedes dealer. No one else will have them.
170-997-01-86 parts.com has the plug for 2.99 plus shipping. i rarely if ever use the dealer for parts. anything they have is available online inc. amg engines
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#9 Old 10-18-2010
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Thanks guys.
I have just put in a parts enquiry using that part number.
I will let you know the outcome.
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#10 Old 10-20-2010
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OK, got the part from my local MB dealer. A total of Ł3.00, result !
Easy enough to fit.

Push into socket, push the locking pin up by hand and a final tap with a hammer secured it in place, simple.

The part number for my chassis was 170-997-02-86
Attached Images
File Type: jpg part.jpg (55.3 KB, 40 views)
File Type: jpg part hole.jpg (47.1 KB, 24 views)
File Type: jpg part fin.jpg (72.3 KB, 26 views)
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#11 Old 10-22-2010
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Got mine today. In my case, 170-997-01-86 was in fact the right part to match the one remaining on the car. The -01- part is flatter (looks like a TastyKake Kandy Kake to me) than the -02- part.

They both appear to have the same mounting tabs, so they might be interchangable. The -01- fits in the cup of my trolley jack nicely, but the -02- might provide a bit more distance between the jack & the body.
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#12 Old 10-24-2010
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OK, finally got around to putting these on today. In the case of the 170-997-01-86 part, the installation wasn't as straightforward as I thought it was going to be, but in the end its pretty easy.

My problem was I thought all I needed to to was take the puck, put it in the hole in the underside of the body & close the "plunger". But when I tried that, the plunger when in with practically no resistance & the puck fell right out.

After taking a closer look at the puck, I figured out that it came apart into (at least) 3 different pieces (see the attached photos). There is the outer rubber grommet, the plastic "puck" and the plunger. If you pull the plunger out of the puck, you can then weedle the grommet off of the puck. Once I did that, the procedure seemed clear.

1. Place the rubber grommet into the hole on the underside of the body & knead it into place so the grommet fits up into the indentation in the body panel. Pay particular attention that the top "threaded" part is well situated inside the ~1" diameter hole in the center of the indentation.

2. Place the puck inside of the rubber grommet & gently make sure it's well seated such that the "legs" on the top of the puck are inside the 1" diameter hole. Before I placed the puck in the grommet, I actually pushed in the legs so that they were nearly flush with the hole in the top of the puck to make sure they all ended up in the hole. I then gave the puck a couple of light taps with a rubber mallet to make sure it was centered & seated. At this point, the puck may still seem to be a little loose inside of the grommet, but that's OK at this point.

3. While holding the puck so it remains flush and centered in the grommet, insert the plunger in the puck to the point where you feel a lot of friction/resistance. This is when I knew I was on the right track; every other way I tried to attach the puck the plunger encountered practically no resistance at all. You probably won't be able to push the plunger all the way in at this point, if so that's good.

4. Use a rubber mallet to lightly tap the plunger into place. There is limited space under the car to do this, but once you get the plunger moving it only takes a few light taps to drive it all the way in.

5. Verify that the entire assembly is secured to the body. It should be recessed a bit into the indentation & be securely attached to the body at this point.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_0619.jpg (36.6 KB, 32 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0620.jpg (39.8 KB, 29 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0621.jpg (51.6 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0622.jpg (52.9 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0623.jpg (53.7 KB, 16 views)
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#13 Old 10-25-2010
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Isn`t that what i said, only mine was a shorter version
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#14 Old 10-25-2010
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I guess I missed the part in your post about having to take it all apart first.
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#15 Old 11-04-2010
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Thats because i did`nt take anything apart. Mine popped in as described.
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#16 Old 11-04-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chopperdude56 View Post
Thats because i did`nt take anything apart. Mine popped in as described.
'Zactly. If you have the -01- part, you'll probably need to take it apart to install. So the long answer to your original question is "no", my procedure is not the "same thing you said".
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#17 Old 02-20-2017
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Thank you! I would have never figured out to take it apart.
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#18 Old 11-07-2018
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At the risk of resurrecting an old thread, I can confirm that THESE EBAY PARTS fit very nicely thank you.

As atebit has stated, take the units apart first.

I found it easiest to push each piece home individually using my trolley jack with a bit of wood on it to keep things nicely protected.

Rubber, mushroom, centre expansion pin.

note. Put a Ł1 coin on my bit of wood prior to jacking the centre pin just to make sure that it went all the way home
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