Front centre caliper bolt - SLK 55AMG ? - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 08-18-2018
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Front centre caliper bolt - SLK 55AMG ?

Hi there,

Before I start this job - does anyone know what way the centre bolt is removed from the front calipers? I understand the pins are punched out but that centre one is confusing me. Is it screwed in?

The one in the blue box in the picture below.

Cheers
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#2 Old 08-18-2018
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Screw in.
30Nm
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#3 Old 08-18-2018
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Originally Posted by Cbaileyuk View Post
Hi there,

Before I start this job - does anyone know what way the centre bolt is removed from the front calipers? I understand the pins are punched out but that centre one is confusing me. Is it screwed in?

The one in the blue box in the picture below.

Cheers
From your 'performance pack' thread, I mentioned:

The big centre bolt on the caliper frequently seizes solid on these systems (mine has), in which case you will have to remove the caliper itself to fit the pads.

Not even judicious application of heat would get mine to budge.
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#4 Old 08-18-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i860 View Post
Screw in.
30Nm
Is it screwed from the front or back?
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#5 Old 08-18-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terminal View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cbaileyuk View Post
Hi there,

Before I start this job - does anyone know what way the centre bolt is removed from the front calipers? I understand the pins are punched out but that centre one is confusing me. Is it screwed in?

The one in the blue box in the picture below.

Cheers
From your 'performance pack' thread, I mentioned:

The big centre bolt on the caliper frequently seizes solid on these systems (mine has), in which case you will have to remove the caliper itself to fit the pads.

Not even judicious application of heat would get mine to budge.
Yes I do recall that.
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#6 Old 08-18-2018
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Hi All
Its a plain bolt type thing , But with no outside threads only two areas of location into the main body of the caliper, with a bolt screwed into one end , its can be very tight to remove once you have the inner bolt removed , Your need a drift less than the diameter of the internal thread size , Please do not use the loosen bolt take the bolt out & fine a round bar so you do not f*** up the threads. I have used a 6 nail before as its softer than this bolt .give the locations a good clean up & some copper grease

Cheers

Andy

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#7 Old 08-18-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeroZero View Post
Hi All
It’s a plain bolt type thing , But with no outside threads only two areas of location into the main body of the caliper, with a bolt screwed into one end , it’s can be very tight to remove once you have the inner bolt removed , Your need a drift less than the diameter of the internal thread size , Please do not use the loosen bolt take the bolt out & fine a round bar so you do not f*** up the threads. I have used a 6” nail before as its softer than this bolt .give the locations a good clean up & some copper grease

Cheers

Andy

I'm sorry I'm a little inexperienced. I don't understand what you have typed. Could you explain it in idiot speak 🙂
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#8 Old 08-18-2018
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I think I understand as I am undoing now. You mean dont loosen the securing bolt then use that to drift the peg out. I think that's what you mean 🙂 wish me luck
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#9 Old 08-18-2018
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I worked it out. It was tough but with clever use of a punch and Dremel I got the passenger side done. Going to do the driver's side tomorrow. Many hours of work but it's all cleaned up and copper greased now. Will be fine in the future, even if that isn't me 🙂
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#10 Old 08-18-2018
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A short pin punch and ball pein hammer of at least 1lb.
Pre soak the cross bolt before you start with plus gas or similar.
Hit it hard. Not lots of little taps, hard....
You are restricted for swing room.

Cheers Russ


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#11 Old 08-18-2018
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You can see some pin punches in the picture.
The bolt halfway out
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File Type: jpg Image-2-01.jpg (59.8 KB, 9 views)

Cheers Russ


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#12 Old 08-19-2018
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Just done the driver's side...I knew how to attack the centre pin on that one so that wasn't too bad but to make things fun, the inner pad was completely fused into the caliper. That took about 3 hours to get out with plusgas and various hitting implements. Both sides took me about 8 hours 😞

All copper greased now so will be much easier in the future. Probably the ****test brake job I have done. Thats old cars for you
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#13 Old 08-19-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cbaileyuk View Post


the inner pad was completely fused into the caliper.

scary to think you were driving a 55 with brakes in such poor condition


brake calipers, especially on cars not used regularily, need routine maintenance


I remove and re-fit pads every year, in prep for MOT, to keep them in 100% condition and see if any problems developing.



Now time to overhaull the rears?
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#14 Old 08-19-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G0RSQ View Post
scary to think you were driving a 55 with brakes in such poor condition

brake calipers, especially on cars not used regularily, need routine maintenance

I remove and re-fit pads every year, in prep for MOT, to keep them in 100% condition and see if any problems developing.

Now time to overhaull the rears?
He just got the car 3 wk ago so is now checking everything over since he bought it.

It was probably the OTHER owner who was driving it in that sad state


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#15 Old 08-19-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeonardoDaBenz View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by G0RSQ View Post
scary to think you were driving a 55 with brakes in such poor condition<img src="https://www.slkworld.com/images/SLKWorld_2014/smilies/tango_face_surprise.png" border="0" alt="" title="EEK! Surprise!" class="inlineimg" />

brake calipers, especially on cars not used regularily, need routine maintenance

I remove and re-fit pads every year, in prep for MOT, to keep them in 100% condition and see if any problems developing.

Now time to overhaull the rears?
He just got the car 3 wk ago so is now checking everything over since he bought it.

It was probably the OTHER owner who was driving it in that sad state <img src="https://www.slkworld.com/images/SLKWorld_2014/smilies/tango_face_sad.png" border="0" alt="" title="Frown" class="inlineimg" />
Absolutely correct, thanks for that. I am trying to sort everything out on it. And correct, rears are next. The braking was so woolly, it's excellent now and that's without the rears done. They are next on the list. I'm doing all chassis corrosion as well. Grinding all surface rust and protecting. This week will also be a transmission fluid change. People treat these cars like normal cars and that's bad.

I think the front brakes have taken 8 hours to sort out. That would be a 1000+ job at Mercedes. We're all good now though and I love the car. I also have a lotus and this is more fun. New found respect for Mercedes.
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#16 Old 08-20-2018
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The brake adventure continues &#x1f61e;

Just thought I would attempt one of the rears. Got the pins out no problems, thought I had retracted the pistons, pulled the old pads. Everything going well.

Compared the new pads with the old, exactly the same shape so right pads. Could I fit the new thicker pads in? Could I heck. It's as if the new pads are slightly too thick. When I look into the caliper, the pistons are not flush and stick out a couple of mm. I tried to get them so go flush on either side but they won't so what seem like an only option is a take a little of the meat off the pad. I don't want to do that though.

Should the pistons go flush on the rears? These are close but not flush. So I've coppergreased it all and put the old pads back in.

The adventures continue &#x1f61e;
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#17 Old 08-20-2018
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The rear pistons should go completely flush and retract. At least every other car Ive had that I did brakes on they have.
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#18 Old 08-20-2018
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I'm inclined to agree but this rear passenger side caliper (only chose that one because I had easy access in my garage) the pistons on both inner and outer sit proud by about 2mm. I am used to this sometimes but I wasn't sure if it was a trait of AMG rear calipers. I will have a look at the other side tomorrow and see what that is like over there.

Hand brake is off and I've even loosened the bleed nipple and watched it pump a little fluid out as I press on the piston.

Quite a journey this is
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#19 Old 08-20-2018
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I'm wondering if I've bought the wrong rear pads.

I see they is a 14.8 mm thick pad and a 16.5 mm thick one. I have the 16.5 ones. The 14.8 would definitely work. I wonder if that is my problem. Hmmmmm
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#20 Old 08-21-2018
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I'm going to buy the 14.8mm pads tonight and I'll report back if that was the issue. Hopefully I can save another person falling into the same trap and save them some time.

The reason I didn't buy these other ones first was because they have two little 'add on' bits on the the top, either side which the current old pads did not have....but I have watched a youtube of rear replacements and the mechanic took the old pads out (which looked like my old pads) and replaced them with new pads which also had these upper additions on - so clearly they can be used.

I've added pictures of the two types of pads with their spec sheets if it helps someone. I currently have the pads with no 'doodahs' on the top - they don't fit (too wide) and I am going to try the ones with 'doodahs' on the top, which from the spec sheet you'll notice are thinner. They are taller though so this plan may be entirely futile! I need to try though
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