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Discussion Starter #1
I've got a bad PSE pump so my locks, etc... aren't working. I've already pulled it and tried to clean it but have had no success.

I've looked on ebay and in junkyards via car-part.com and have found a few, but they're VERY expensive, usually around $350-$500.

I recently found one on ebay that looks nice and is cheap, but it's for a clk 430 or clk 320. It looks like the plug connectors are the same, but it looks like it has one additional vacuum line.(see pictures below)

My question is: Does anyone know if it will work to put the clk vacuum pump in my slk? I figured I could cap off the one line that I won't be using and still maintain the pressure.

Anyone ever tried this and had success?

Thanks,

Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, thanks...That's the extra vacuum line I was talking about that I would just cap/seal so it didn't ruin the vacuum/suction.

Wondering if anyone has tried it or knows of any mechanical/electronic reason why it wouldn't work.
 

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Premium Member 2004 SLK200K
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Have you tried getting in touch with people breaking Slks , rather than specifically selling the pump , you may find a good deal ?
 

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Premium Member 2014 SLK55 AMG
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Did this get resolved? Did you try it?
 

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My main concern would be that the CAN bus address may not match.
Purely for nuisance value, it would not surprise me if this is varied
Though it could be pin selectable; lots of pins on the black and white connectors.

And if you did buy it, and it didn't work, you can use components from the "new" one to repair the "old" one. (The pump is almost certain to be the same, even if the electronics differ.)

Interested in your research.
Anon
 

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Joining the investigation

Hah!
I've just been given one of these (210-800-10-48) by someone who bought it to use on an SLK, but found it didn't work.
It apparently does work on a CLK (W210) but not on the SLK (R170).
I shall confirm the pump action, and if the outlets can be isolated to avoid the need for external blockages, and then get back to the check to install on the R170.

Pity is that the 210 model is quite common, so I can't organise a swap for the 170 model.

Next thing is to chase the pin-outs for the PSE side. (The ATA side appears to be missing from my car, but I've not investigated behind the side housing, where wires disappear)

BTW, PSE = Pneumatic Services Environment, and ATA = Anti Theft Alarm

I'm still hoping that the CAN bus address is pin-selectable, and "just" needs adjusting to allow the 210 to work on the 170, but I suspect many others have investigated this.
Mind you, if it can be done by a careful repair within the unit, there is a profit to be made there!
 

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Other threads for 210 PSE in R170

There is another thread here where apparently a 210 PSE is listed as the replacement for an R170, and teh other owner has it working.
I'm awaiting more information from the other thread owner.
Watch that space!
 

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Further investigation (to be updated)

OK, I've done more research on the pin-outs of the white connector of the 210 PSE compared with the 170 PSE, and they pins for the CAN bus do not even match, let alone all the pin-switches, etc.

Hence this will not be an integrated solution.

Your initial post indicated the board is ruined. If/when you decide to scrap it off, Woolly (UK) or stinger608 (USA) would appreciate the chance to work on it and get it going again.

However, I have done a mod of the 210 PSE that allows it to run my central locking; I am in the final stage of making it work on the remote, and hope to get it complete this evening.
It may not have all the bells and whistles of the PSE (you could run your old one for that) but it does lock and unlock the car, which for me is *the* major function.
 

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Premium Member 2014 SLK55 AMG
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I have an slk 320 pse. The circuit board and general condition is excellent.

I swapped it out of my car, the interior light and console central locking 'lock' functions do not work but everything else does, alarm, remote central locking tc etc. I had intended to repair the unit but frankly at the moment i don't have time.

Open to offers!

Hmm, you're Stateside, probably not an option!
 

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I have an slk 320 pse. The circuit board and general condition is excellent.

I swapped it out of my car, the interior light and console central locking 'lock' functions do not work but everything else does, alarm, remote central locking tc etc. I had intended to repair the unit but frankly at the moment i don't have time.

Open to offers!

Hmm, you're Stateside, probably not an option!

I am be interested, and being in sunny Somerset (UK) not quite so far away.
And with the grief I'm having with cascaded faults, getting the central locking working remotely would be a pleasure!
I'll PM you.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I really appreciate all of the thoughts and help on this. I'd love to hear what your mod was for this as well. Right now, when I push the lock and unlock button on my key, the lights will flash, but no locking. When I push the lock button on the center console I also have no locking.

I just need a way to lock my car. I was originally using the key in the door, but now my key and door locks are wearing down and the key doesn't want to go in the door lock easily, so now I can't even manually lock it with the key.

I just have to leave my car unlocked all the time...I'd love any help. I'm trying to find somebody locally that maybe I can send my circuit board to for repair...we'll see...
 

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Premium Member 2014 SLK55 AMG
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Does the vacuum pump run when you trigger the key?
 

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Once the normal communication have failed...

My knowledge is based on the basis that I have never had a PSE in my car.

So, I realised that the PSE is instructed to open/close by a message over the CAN bus, from the CCM/SKF.
The CCM gets a discrete signal from the radio module, and can therefore use this signal to drive alternative mechanisms.
The CCM also gets the signals from the internal central locking switch, so could have these patched in to the same alternative mechanism.

I have used these signals to drive isolation relays that then power the motor relay in my replacement PSE, which can then drive the locks. Replacement PSE needed a couple of modifications; more later.

I have run the PSE directly off these wires for a while (couple of weeks) and they worked OK. I then connected to both the lock and unlock signals, and the lock worked well, but the unlock did not work. (Lock also seemed not to lock the boot)

Realised that the unlock signal was because of a broken wire, and eventually (today) replaced that wire and got the unlock to start working.

So now both remote lock and unlock work; the bug is that the signals were expected to run whilst the fob button is pressed, but it only runs for about 0.5 seconds, which is barely enough to get the pump running, let alone compress the system (including the boot lock). So currently I have to multi-tap to get all the locks driven.

So, ongoing, but as yet incomplete, but going in the right direction.

But this is for a system that is thoroughly broken, so abandoning the possibility of repair to the PSE is not an issue for me.
 

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I just need a way to lock my car. I was originally using the key in the door, but now my key and door locks are wearing down and the key doesn't want to go in the door lock easily, so now I can't even manually lock it with the key.

I just have to leave my car unlocked all the time...I'd love any help. I'm trying to find somebody locally that maybe I can send my circuit board to for repair...we'll see...
Time to get a "valet" key cut.
This will not have the electronics needed to run the engine (all in the fob) but will allow you to use the keyholes to lock the driver's door and boot.
Also check the tumblers in the locks are properly lubricated; I used to use 3-in-1 graphite, which has a beneficial residue, but this has become rarer.
You might have to go in and strip the tumblers; not a job for the faint-hearted, but not hard, just fiddly. If you do, work in a high-sided tray one a large clear area, so if any spring does go ping, you can find it.

You may also find it useful to know there are ten tumblers (five from each side) so if you prepare a sheet of paper you can put the pits into the right place for reassembly.
HTH,
Anon
 

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Administrator 2009 SLK 55 AMG/Founding Member 2006
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who? :D remember this thread started in 2012 and last entry was last year :D
use quote button when you can :D
Tolak? he was on in April last :D
 

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Quick resume of the findings for the W210 PSE to fit to R170.
The can-bus connectors are in different pins of the connector, so the W210 unit is not plug compatible. I never connected these, to see if the canbus address is the same, once the wiring limitations are overcome.
The W210 also has an extra pneumatic outlet; thus can be blanked externally, or the internal solenoid disconnected so the three "always on" outlets are used for the R170, and the solenoid never allows the "optional" outlet to run.

For the UK pre-facelift R170, the ATA was replaced by a Scorpion Thatcham approved alarm (apparent by the light/button to left of instruments and dongle slot on non-moving side of centre consol inside glovebox) so some wiring will not be connected

We may also find out if the can-bus address for the PSE is the same for a W210 as for R170, but since the pre-facelift R170 uses a dedicated sub-bus for the PSE to MFK (?), there is no need for this to follow any conventions that were developed later.

I found the discrete wires (one to open, one to close) coming out of the radio/key security module, and patched these to relays that drove the motor for the vacuum and pump to unlock/lock the doors, etc. The duration of the pulse out of the security module was too short to drive the motor in one pulse; I never got to extend that pulse so the locking always worked on one key-press.

So it is possible to work relays into the existing wiring to drive a vacuum pump from another vehicle PSE, to provide locking and unlocking functions, but to get the complete Alarm and dome light function is unlikely. (See the other threads mentioned and cross-linked from this thread for more information)

Do let us know if you manage to advance this story.
 

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That's some interesting info Tolak. I've been sleuthing through the internet and ebay and it seems that the pump that got fried on my slk with part number 1708000848 seems to be identical to the w210 pump part number 2108001248. As far as I can tell they are identical (even the connectors) it also has three air outs, which leads me to believe that the only difference is the gray adapter that redirects the air to the pneumatic tubes. I understand that the chances of the internal components are slim however if the pump is from the clk convertible it is likely that it performs the same functions and could be modified to work with the slk. This might be a long shot, but I don't think it's unreasonable to believe that the only difference in the part is the adapter.
 
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