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Hi, I`ve read a few time in these forums that rusty wheel nuts are a problem, does anyone know of an aftermarket wheel nut that is made of stainless steel.
That would surely be the answer rather that my first fix of painting them.
 

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DAS/STAR Premium Member 2005 SLK 55 AMG
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4,024 Posts
I've painted mine a couple of times, and the rust comes back..

I'm trialing a wheel with the nuts sanded back to bare metal and covered with clear coat to see how that goes ..
 

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Administrator 2009 SLK 55 AMG/Founding Member 2006
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see my album :D



$20 from Amazon

 

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The ones on Ebay have poor feedback with many negative complaints about the quality. On such an important part for the car use only factory lug bolts not cheap aftermarket bolts. You can fit covers over the lugs but these can be a problem when it comes to taking them off. Anway I suggest that you use a copper grease product on the threads to stop rust and also on those stainless steel covers. I also would not use stainlesss steel bolts on a wheel.
 

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Premium member 2001 SLK320
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801 Posts
just dont go hog-wild with the auto-lard

The ones on Ebay have poor feedback with many negative complaints about the quality. On such an important part for the car use only factory lug bolts not cheap aftermarket bolts. You can fit covers over the lugs but these can be a problem when it comes to taking them off. Anway I suggest that you use a copper grease product on the threads to stop rust and also on those stainless steel covers. I also would not use stainlesss steel bolts on a wheel.
A little dab on the thread at end that goes into the hub first is enough. On no account grease the rounded shoulder of the bolt, or the rounded seat in the wheel. That's where they grip each other, and greasing there could lead to you losing more than a wheel.....:surprise:
 

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Premium Member 2008 SLK350
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2,463 Posts
********DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES EVER, EVER USE STAINLESS WHEEL LUGS. NEVER!*********

Stainless does not have the properties required to deliver the tensile strength that wheel lugs require.
True that.
On the head of the bolt is usualy a marking that denominates the strength of the bolt. For metric bolts it is in the form xx.y, xx gives the tensile strenght of the bolt and y the yield strenght. You need at least 10.9 or even better 12.9 class bolts meaning you can fasten with the required torque of 110 Nm.
Like Hal said stainless steel bolts don't even come close, meaning you could overstress them. If you're lucky they break while fastening them, if you're unlucky while you're cruising........
 

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Premium Member 2006 SLK 280-sold
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3,552 Posts
Like has been said, Stainless steel is made to prevent rust, but the things that you give up in gaining that property are machinability and strength. Thus we have to "fool Mother Nature" to achieve our ends. It is altogether possible that someone has solved this problem (Clad bolt heads, high tensile stainless, etc.) but I am not aware of it. I just have ugly rusty bolts because I haven't taken the time to use one of the solutions described above.
 
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Registered 2014 SLK250
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For heavens sake, I spelt it out pretty clearly above - DO NOT USE STAINLESS STEEL. Whatever grade it is! I sincerely hope no one does make them, but in this day of fakes and cons, I bet someone does - to appeal to the bling market.
 

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For heavens sake, I spelt it out pretty clearly above - DO NOT USE STAINLESS STEEL. Whatever grade it is! I sincerely hope no one does make them, but in this day of fakes and cons, I bet someone does - to appeal to the bling market.
I have used Marine grade bolts/nuts all over both my motorcycles. One of which is a Drag bike. Never had a problem AT ALL & i doubt very much a car can put the same stresses on the part like my bikes can!
 

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Premium Member 2008 SLK350
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I have used Marine grade bolts/nuts all over both my motorcycles. One of which is a Drag bike. Never had a problem AT ALL & i doubt very much a car can put the same stresses on the part like my bikes can!
You're comparing apples and oranges. Unless you've completely modified the rear suspension of your Suzuki's they have a double-sided suspension. The way the wheel is attached to the bike is completely different from the way a wheel is attached to a car. They are both round but that's where the comparison ends.
For a car clamping force is essential to safely mount a wheel. Like it has been said before, to achieve enough clamping force a bolt has to have e minimum yield and tension strenght. Stainless steel bolts just don't have that. Afaik the only difference between marin grade and ordinary grade is the resistance to corrosion. Like Hal said, DO NOT USE STAINLESS STEEL.
If not for your own good then for that of your fellow road users.
 

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Both bikes have been heavily modified, Inc 6" over swingarm. The stress factor of the bolts is nearly as good as stock.
I do get what you are saying, but there are Marine grades up to the job.

But as said, i doubt anyone actually makes them?
 

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Registered 2014 SLK250
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In actual fact, 'marine grade' stainless steel, despite how it might sound is weaker than industrial stainless due to the increased amount of nickel in the alloy. But hey-ho, if you are happy using stainless where there are sheer forces, then go for it!
 

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Premium Member 2008 SLK350
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2,463 Posts
Both bikes have been heavily modified, Inc 6" over swingarm. The stress factor of the bolts is nearly as good as stock.
I do get what you are saying, but there are Marine grades up to the job.

But as said, i doubt anyone actually makes them?
I respectfully disagree with you on the bolt issue, but the bikes look great!!
As you already guessed mine's more of the classic English style. Meriden look Triumph from Hinckley. Complete stock. 0:)
 

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