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I am getting a lot of noise out of my supercharger when I put my foot in it at highway speeds. The first step is for me to check the oil level, and am thinking I will drain it completely while I am at it, and add fresh oil. I have found the OEM oil is Nye Synthetic Oil 605, but am not finding it, nor do I feel it is necessary to stick with OEM. I would like feedback from anyone that has replaced the oil in their supercharger, and what they used, as well as where it can be purchased.
Thanks
 

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There are a couple of threads on the forum DYI with pictures and the type of oil(s) you can use. Search engine is awesome!
I found the answer to the oil problem, and it sure wasn't the dealer. $80 plus tax thru them. The same oil is used by GM for the same M45 Eaton supercharger for less than $10 from NAPA. Again the dealer "rip off" is in play.
What I am not able to find, is a detailed video or pictures step by step to access the fill plug for the supercharger. I have the air box off, but their is still the enclosure for "what I surmise" the throttle body housing. More than likely this will not solve the noise issue, but I wanted to try it before taking it to a mechanic. If anyone knows of a link for what I am looking for, it would sure help.
 

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I found the answer to the oil problem, and it sure wasn't the dealer. $80 plus tax thru them. The same oil is used by GM for the same M45 Eaton supercharger for less than $10 from NAPA. Again the dealer "rip off" is in play.
What I am not able to find, is a detailed video or pictures step by step to access the fill plug for the supercharger. I have the air box off, but their is still the enclosure for "what I surmise" the throttle body housing. More than likely this will not solve the noise issue, but I wanted to try it before taking it to a mechanic. If anyone knows of a link for what I am looking for, it would sure help.
http://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-class-diy/200897-supercharger-oil-change.html#/forumsite/20461/topics/200897?page=1
 

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I saw that tech article also, but it is not like my set up. I had to remove both the air box and the throttle body, but still am not sure if I am looking at the fill hole. If I am, the catalytic converter seems to be an obstacle as well. I am posting what I am seeing and would appreciate any feedback.
Thanks
I don't normally spend much time in the R170 area but I have access to the WIS so I should be able to find what you need. I just need to know your chassis number 170/447 or 170/449? Then I need to confirm the engine 111.943 or 973? Hopefully, I can get you going in the right direction.
 

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I don't normally spend much time in the R170 area but I have access to the WIS so I should be able to find what you need. I just need to know your chassis number 170/447 or 170/449? Then I need to confirm the engine 111.943 or 973? Hopefully, I can get you going in the right direction.
Thanks for the response, but I had gone so far, that I only needed to pull four bolts, and an air intake, and it came out.
What I found was there is only one port, it is a torx screw below and offset from the pulley. I saw it from the front when I removed the belt, but thought it would make a mess if I took the screw out and the old oil spilled out on the idler pulley and the serpentine belt.
Once I pulled the supercharger, and I took out the torx screw, I was all prepared to catch the "stinky" oil everyone was talking about. No oil spilled out at all since I had it standing with the rear of the SC facing down, so I slowly tilted it forward, with a towel in front of the hole, until it was level like it would be in the car.....still no oil. I slowly inverted it until it was completely face down, and finally...... a drop of oil, that was it. It was for all intents and purposes dry. I filled it, spun the pulley a few times, removed the torx screw again, and topped it off to the beginning of the threads and sealed it up. The pulley does not wobble, or have a feeling of grinding, so I hope it is OK. If not, I know how to pull it in the future.
The pictures show the engine compartment with everything out, and the picture of the components removed in the order they come out from right to left in the picture. I leaned a lot about the air and supercharging system in the process, now hopefully it all goes back together smoothly.
 

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Thanks for the response, but I had gone so far, that I only needed to pull four bolts, and an air intake, and it came out.
What I found was there is only one port, it is a torx screw below and offset from the pulley. I saw it from the front when I removed the belt, but thought it would make a mess if I took the screw out and the old oil spilled out on the idler pulley and the serpentine belt.
Once I pulled the supercharger, and I took out the torx screw, I was all prepared to catch the "stinky" oil everyone was talking about. No oil spilled out at all since I had it standing with the rear of the SC facing down, so I slowly tilted it forward, with a towel in front of the hole, until it was level like it would be in the car.....still no oil. I slowly inverted it until it was completely face down, and finally...... a drop of oil, that was it. It was for all intents and purposes dry. I filled it, spun the pulley a few times, removed the torx screw again, and topped it off to the beginning of the threads and sealed it up. The pulley does not wobble, or have a feeling of grinding, so I hope it is OK. If not, I know how to pull it in the future.
The pictures show the engine compartment with everything out, and the picture of the components removed in the order they come out from right to left in the picture. I leaned a lot about the air and supercharging system in the process, now hopefully it all goes back together smoothly.
Glad you got it figured out. Hopefully there is minimal damage from the low oil level. Good luck.
 

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Check out my post in the DIY http://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-class-diy/306290-post-facelift-slk-230-supercharger-oil-change.html

I believe it is better than the Pelican/Peach Parts writeup, especially for the post facelift vehicles. Do not forget to put your belt back on when finished and before starting!
I believe it is better than the Pelican/Peach Parts writeup, especially for the post facelift vehicles. Do not forget to put your belt back on when finished and before starting![/quote]
Thanks for the referral, I got frustrated waiting, so I just started pulling parts. Your SC is exactly like mine, and ours are not like the one that Pelican parts refers to when talking about an R170 Kompressor SC removal.
I did find that the plastic threaded cap on the pulley shaft was broken, so I backed it out, but don't have any idea where to get another one. Is it any more than a thread protector, or is it as I have seen described a "breather" plug, to let excess gas to "burp" from the SC when it gets hot? I took a picture of the piece that I pulled out, but it is supposed to have a flat head also, which was brittle and in pieces.
 

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I believe it is better than the Pelican/Peach Parts writeup, especially for the post facelift vehicles. Do not forget to put your belt back on when finished and before starting!
Thanks for the referral, I got frustrated waiting, so I just started pulling parts. Your SC is exactly like mine, and ours are not like the one that Pelican parts refers to when talking about an R170 Kompressor SC removal.
I did find that the plastic threaded cap on the pulley shaft was broken, so I backed it out, but don't have any idea where to get another one. Is it any more than a thread protector, or is it as I have seen described a "breather" plug, to let excess gas to "burp" from the SC when it gets hot? I took a picture of the piece that I pulled out, but it is supposed to have a flat head also, which was brittle and in pieces.[/QUOTE]

Do you have a picture of where it came from?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here is the pulley shaft with the part partially unscrewed, then the shaft threads, and then the plastic part remaining. The final picture is a longer shot for point of reference. I have called Eaton, and their tech department will not help the end consumer. They will only give advice to distributors, and the told me to check on line sources. Great customer service..........
 

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OK, I just stuck a plastic ribbed plug cap in the pulley shaft, and put it all back together. I can't take the care out on the hwy yet, because I pulled the front bumper and spoiler to have the chips taken out and fresh paint.
I did start the engine, warmed it up, and revved it up as much as dared to. It was as smooth as silk, and after talking to a supercharger tech, found out that if the oil had blown through the needle bearings my air exhaust housing coming out of the SC would have an oil coating. All was dry, I don't know where all the oil went, but the fact that I don't have any of the noise I noticed before seems to be good. Will know more out on the hwy. I learned a lot about the car tear off the front end and pulling the supercharger at the same time. Especially on an older vehicle, I think it is important to know as much as you can about how to get into more than the gas tank. I am not a mechanic by any means, but you can take pics with your phone as you go along, make notes, put parts in a container labeled and in general just grow a pair and go for it.
 
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