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*Registered
1999 SLK200K
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8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
After consulting most SLK Facebook groups as well as mbslk.de, I haven't gotten any further with my issue. After reading through many threads on here, however, and realizing how detailed the solutions are, this board might just be the deus ex machina.

Symptoms:
-> Fob does not lock anything when car is unlocked
-> Fob however DOES slowly unlock the front doors, not the bootlid and fuel lid though
(Indicators work as intended)
-> When pressing the fob, the pump can be heard, but is super weak (after measuring, I found out it draws 5V only)
-> When pressing the fob, whatever button, the dome lights glim (drawing about 1V)
-> Lock/unlock button in the centre console doesn't do anything at all
-> Car does not lock whilst driving
-> Switching on the dome light switches off the boot light
-> Dome light switch in centre position turns the dome light on permanently
-> Sometimes (I haven't found a pattern for this) the boot lights go flashing with the PSE clicking in the same rhythm -> is this the alarm going off? I can cancel this by pressing the fob or starting the car
-> Alarm does not work at all

I've tried:
-> cleaning the PSE - looks good as new
-> removing the infamous white connector and soldering wires onto the PCB to bypass potential faulty pins - was probably not necessary, looked perfect underneath
-> sucking and blowing on the yellow tubes to check for air leaks - everything works
-> checking fuses - none are blown
-> removing the pump from the PSE PCB and checking its function - works as intended with a 12V adapter
-> soldering wires onto the PCB to bypass every sketchy-looking connection I could find - still the same

Before spending 300-400€ on another PSE from eBay, I'd like to try and find the cuprit.

What else is there to check?

Thankful for any tips.

All the best

Patrick
 

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Founding Member 2006
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114,399 Posts
did you replace batteries in fob? or did i miss that?
 

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Founding Member 2006
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114,399 Posts

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*Registered
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893 Posts
Some info if possible:
sucking and blowing on the yellow tubes to check for air leaks - everything works - it is working like a solid on the moment lock/unlock or slow?
Is it working for each lock?

Said the PSE works on the bench but not in the car rings a bell - parasitic current draw. Missing ground.
Also with external power supply, what is the consumption there?

Before ALL is the PSE the accurate one for your car? PSE - Central locking isn't working at all we have seen some troubles there!

Rule number 1 of Fight club, do you have the POWER?
Like battery is capable of providing the needed (lets say 12 amps) or not?
If the capacity of the battery is at the bottom specs...you might chase the wind!

As a general rule recharge your battery over night!
With the freshly charged battery (if you have new battery or proven good one parallel connection will do the job too) try the inside of the car locking/unlocking (currently doing nothing is not good, but probably Dave can help there), if not try the fob!
As you mentioned there are 2 locks that do not move, have you tried swapping the hoses from slowly operational lets say left door to the non-operational fuel filler cap?
Dropping voltage means too much of a LOAD, do you have extra alarm components tied to the PSE circuit? If you do, can you remove that and try the power consumption test again!

As it looks, you are not giving up easily, so arm yourself with wirings (we have them here) and check 3 things, the power supply of the pump on the cables - disconnect the PSE and multi-meter the supplied power. Operate the remote to see if the power supply still drops, I guess there will be a error code stored for not operational/too long time in relation to locks.
With pump detached (check the wirings) you should have open circuit to ground or +12V but measuring for resistance will help with answering the question if extra consumers are "on the branch". Or internal control module failure.
Check the wirings, PSE attached to the car pneumatic lines supply the external power and confirm if the locks operate or not!

And probably not last coding for the PSE if not original (visible on SDS as Dave will advise) in case you have that info!
 

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Founding Member 2006
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114,399 Posts

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*Premium Member
2001 SLK200K/2001 SLK320
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3,704 Posts
-> Lock/unlock button in the centre console doesn't do anything at all
-> Car does not lock whilst driving


These are related, the anti-car-jacking feature can be turned on or off by pressing and holding the console lock/unlock button for >5secs or via SDS. Sounds like it has been turned off at some point and now cant be turned back on again via the now non-functioning button
 

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**Premium Member '02 R170 SLK V8 5.0 & '00 SLK320
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8,685 Posts
My money is on PSE, I see it like this .............

If you don't have a spare PSE then you should, because you will need it one day ;)

Therefore it won't be wasted money to buy one and try it, but just be aware that there are many folks on auction sites that are selling their old ones that have faults, so in this instance I would always prefer to buy one from a trusted breakers ;) ............

Oh, btw, there is more than 1 part number / type, so check that you have the correct p/n for your cars VIN, use WIS / EPC

HTH ;)
 

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*Registered
1999 SLK200K
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8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank you all! This is some really useful advice, and the wiring blueprints make everything a lot easier.

So I did the following:
Charged car battery over night
Checked continuity between ground and both door switches -> no resistance
Checked continuity between door switches and wire ends in boot (what used to be the white connector) -> no resistance
Checked voltage between ground and circuit 30 -> 12.5V as it should
Checked voltage between PSE pin 14 and circuit 30 -> 8.8V with left door closed, 0V with left door open
Checked voltage between PSE pin 16 and circuit 30 -> 7.5V with right door closed, 0V with right door open
This basically concludes that the circuitry inside PSE itself is messed up, if I'm getting that right.

Said the PSE works on the bench but not in the car rings a bell - parasitic current draw. Missing ground.
Also with external power supply, what is the consumption there?
My bad, I did not mean that I checked the entire PSE on the bench, I removed the pump unit (the bulky thing with the silicone domes connected to the PCB via black and white wires) and ran it with a 12V adapter. I wanted to make sure that the pump itself wasn't mechanically dead.
I'll try and switch around the hoses to see if anything changes. But as far as I can tell, even when I remove all the hoses, there's only a very weak draft from the first two "holes" and almost no draft coming from the third "hole" on top of the PSE - the latter of which is the one responsible for boot and fuel lid.
As for SDS, I'm completely new to that. Might need some looking into if I plan on keeping my R170 around. :)

Oh, btw, there is more than 1 part number / type, so check that you have the correct p/n for your cars VIN, use WIS / EPC
Sadly, my EPC stopped working with my last Windows update. Is there anywhere I can check which PSE part number matches my VIN?
 

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Part and vin can be cross checked here:
Mercedes FG 170 > Mercedes EPC Online > nemigaparts.com working accurate in most of my searches, however posting your vin, would help with the data-card if not done yet.
I have recently found this 16.54 GB folder on MEGA not tested, no idea if working or time waste, noting but a saved link from unknown source, explore on your own responsibility!
 

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**Premium Member '02 R170 SLK V8 5.0 & '00 SLK320
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8,685 Posts
As for SDS, I'm completely new to that. Might need some looking into if I plan on keeping my R170 around. :)
The thing is this regarding SDS ....

1) If you buy SDS as per the bazillion posts I've made on the subject, it is not wasted money, an awful lot of owners will buy another MB, perhaps later SLK, or a different MB vehicle such as C Class, E Class etc etc if / when they sell the current one, the SDS will work with any Mercedes ;)

2) If you decide never again I don't want another MB, you can sell a complete and working system normally for what you paid for it, often you can make a bit on it as prices rise and if you can demonstrate it to a prospective purchaser ;)

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Sadly, my EPC stopped working with my last Windows update.
SDS will have EPC / WIS / ASRA and much much more. You should only run these Dealer Level programs on a laptop that is dedicated to just that software, and never allow it to update.
Only use internet if using "Team Viewer".

This is why I have 17 different Laptops in my workshop for all the popular Vehicle marques Software, together with the various Multiplexers and Leads sets required, most of which run Win 7 Pro ;)

HTH (y)
 

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*Registered
1999 SLK200K
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8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
For the time being, does anyone have access to EPC and could quickly check which PSE is the right one for my car? Maybe the previous owner got his hands on a wrong replacement part. :)

My VIN: WDB1704451F152134
My current PSE: A1708000448

Thanks in advance!
 

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Founding Member 2006
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114,399 Posts
Let me check
 

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Founding Member 2006
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114,399 Posts
A 170 800 08 48
PUMP
Replaces: A 170 800 06 48
Replaces: A 170 800 04 48
Replaces: A 170 800 03 48
Replaces: A 170 800 02 48
Replaces: A 170 800 01 48
 

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Founding Member 2006
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114,399 Posts
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