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Discussion Starter #1
I've installed my volt stabilizer to help me check for battery health and to determine when it's time to change my car battery. It is also advertised to increase horsepower, increase bass sound of the stereo and audio quality, brighter headlights, increase battery life, improve engine response and increase torque, stabilized idling, improved fuel mileage. Initially I only installed this part for its voltage display, but after installing it I noticed some of the changes it claimed, the stereo sound got a bit louder and cleaner, throttle response was a bit better ( but it may be because of the reset I did a few weeks back), one noticeable difference was that whenever I turned the aircon on, the rpm at idle doesn't fluctuate anymore. Before installing this unit, the rpm at idle would fluctuate a bit whenever i turned on the airconditioner.

I didn't notice the horsepower increase, but import tuner claimed that this unit may increase horsepower based on dyno runs they made.

http://www.importtuner.com/tech/impp_1010_voltage_stabilizers_can_increase_power_and_torque_fact_fiction/viewall.html

the feedback from my friends that have been using it was that it really did improve battery life.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Interesting...
Exactly the same thing I said when it was offered to me... I really bought it for the volt indicator cause I already got stuck 2 times already in parking lots outside because I forgot to check my battery voltage at home using my big battery checker ( which I have to get out of storage and un box it and then box it again and put back to storage) or go to a battery shop to have my battery checked. This piece will be convenient for me, just pop the hood then check if the voltage went down, then change the battery to a new one. I won't be stuck outside again anymore because the battery died on me.
 

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Hmmm... That's interesting... :)
Still can't get how it helps to obtain better gas mileage or Hp increase.
But if it can help me with the following it might be useful:
I've noticed when I operate my power windows the voltage drops down as long as I hold the button. Even the lights on the dashboard dim a little bit. Also, when my emergency parking lights are on with the engine running I can hear idle fluctuating and lights on the dashboard dim too. And idle drops a little bit when I turn the a/c on. I think it's normal for every car so not paying attention to it since the voltage drop is minimal. It's more of an irritating thing when I park and turn my blinkers on and see my voltage fluctuating...
Can you experiment with that and see if voltage stays steady when you perform these procedures?! If it helps I might get one to get rid of annoying drop :)


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Hmmm, I also doubt the fuel mileage thing, but I guess there's some hp increase because the car is electronically controlled, it may make electronic signals efficient same as what the sprintbooster is claiming, but if there is, 1 hp increase or 1.5 torque increase ( as found by dyno runs of import tuner) wouldn't be noticeable.

Here's my observation, with the led indicator I can see the voltage output when the engine is on. The max voltage I get is 13.7, when I turn on the airconditioner it drops momentarily to 13.6 or 13.5, same with the operation of the windows, it only drops to 13.5 or 13.4 then goes back up again. This is also same with the radio. I didn't notice the interior lights, or dashboards lights dimming, cause last night I was testing the lights, and it does seem that the lights were brighter (or it may be psychological) but it may be that I have fairly new battery ( less than 1 year) how old is your battery Jayson? It may be signs that you need a new battery. Just a reminder, if you're gonna get this part you must have a new or almost new battery installed so you'll know your lowest voltage for the new battery, then if the lowest voltage would go down by 1 value, you need to have the battery replaced. My lowest value when the engine is turned off is 12.5 if goes below 12 I need to replace my battery.
 

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Interesting....

I'd like to see more comments/experience from others that have done this, not necessarily on an SLK but other vehicles as well.
 

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I've installed my volt stabilizer to help me check for battery health and to determine when it's time to change my car battery. It is also advertised to increase horsepower, increase bass sound of the stereo and audio quality, brighter headlights, increase battery life, improve engine response and increase torque, stabilized idling, improved fuel mileage. Initially I only installed this part for its voltage display, but after installing it I noticed some of the changes it claimed, the stereo sound got a bit louder and cleaner, throttle response was a bit better ( but it may be because of the reset I did a few weeks back), one noticeable difference was that whenever I turned the aircon on, the rpm at idle doesn't fluctuate anymore. Before installing this unit, the rpm at idle would fluctuate a bit whenever i turned on the airconditioner.

I didn't notice the horsepower increase, but import tuner claimed that this unit may increase horsepower based on dyno runs they made.

http://www.importtuner.com/tech/impp_1010_voltage_stabilizers_can_increase_power_and_torque_fact_fiction/viewall.html

the feedback from my friends that have been using it was that it really did improve battery life.
Will it also prevent brake dust and wash/wax the car?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Interesting....

I'd like to see more comments/experience from others that have done this, not necessarily on an SLK but other vehicles as well.
Check my link above on import tuner, also check out mbworld forums, I think some of the guys there put this unit on an r171, or somewhat a similar unit called a surge suppressor. We also tested this on a mitsubishi evo a few years back and it did see some improvements the cause maybe because of the grounding wires it came with it. I'm not really sure if it will really show changes in the slk, because the slk is grounded beautifully, but the evo isn't. I have to set up the ground cables and maybe it will show significant differences. If you want ill post other forums on this topic, but bear in mind, almost all products has those skeptics running about. All I can say is try it first then bash the product if you dont like it, if you haven't tried it then don't say anything about it. It's like a car, how can you say a car isn't good to drive when you haven't driven it yet, or seen its features if you haven't owned one or driven one. Just saying.
 

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Check my link above on import tuner, also check out mbworld forums, I think some of the guys there put this unit on an r171, or somewhat a similar unit called a surge suppressor. We also tested this on a mitsubishi evo a few years back and it did see some improvements the cause maybe because of the grounding wires it came with it. I'm not really sure if it will really show changes in the slk, because the slk is grounded beautifully, but the evo isn't. I have to set up the ground cables and maybe it will show significant differences. If you want ill post other forums on this topic, but bear in mind, almost all products has those skeptics running about. All I can say is try it first then bash the product if you dont like it, if you haven't tried it then don't say anything about it. It's like a car, how can you say a car isn't good to drive when you haven't driven it yet, or seen its features if you haven't owned one or driven one. Just saying.
I agree. Just trying to see if there are more opinions/comments from those in the know (like electrical engineers, etc).
 

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Hmmm, I also doubt the fuel mileage thing, but I guess there's some hp increase because the car is electronically controlled, it may make electronic signals efficient same as what the sprintbooster is claiming, but if there is, 1 hp increase or 1.5 torque increase ( as found by dyno runs of import tuner) wouldn't be noticeable.

Here's my observation, with the led indicator I can see the voltage output when the engine is on. The max voltage I get is 13.7, when I turn on the airconditioner it drops momentarily to 13.6 or 13.5, same with the operation of the windows, it only drops to 13.5 or 13.4 then goes back up again. This is also same with the radio. I didn't notice the interior lights, or dashboards lights dimming, cause last night I was testing the lights, and it does seem that the lights were brighter (or it may be psychological) but it may be that I have fairly new battery ( less than 1 year) how old is your battery Jayson? It may be signs that you need a new battery. Just a reminder, if you're gonna get this part you must have a new or almost new battery installed so you'll know your lowest voltage for the new battery, then if the lowest voltage would go down by 1 value, you need to have the battery replaced. My lowest value when the engine is turned off is 12.5 if goes below 12 I need to replace my battery.
Great thanks for your response! I see the voltage stays pretty steady. My battery is almost a year old. Don't have any problems with it. Just a regular voltage drop when you use electronic equipment. Keep us updated =) :Beer:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I agree. Just trying to see if there are more opinions/comments from those in the know (like electrical engineers, etc).
I had my dad check it out for me, my dad has electrical background after working for a major radio station here in my country. He wanted to open it up but I said no need because you can see through the case. He found that the unit worked as a surge suppressor, it uses the condensers as storage for the electrical charge it needs to pick up the slack of the alternator when you turn on electrical units in your car. He explained to me that in normal car operation the alternator already serves as the voltage regulator/ surge suppressor of the whole car, but when you turn on other electrical components such as aircon, power windows/seats/mirrors, and stereo units with high electrical requirements the alternator lacks the necessary voltage so it gets the voltage needed from the battery itself, thus it drains the battery, now this unit helps the battery to compensate for the needed charge by releasing the electrical charge it stored in its condensers, while maintaining the voltage, this prevents voltage spikes that can damage electrical systems, such as aircon stereo, etc. basically he said it works in the same way automatic voltage regulators do for desktop computers and refrigerators. He also said it is not required that you have it in your car cause you already have an alternator, but it serves as a precaution to prevent further damage when your alternator fails, it also extends the life of the alternator and battery. But it still depends on the condition and quality of the parts. All in all after showing him what it can do, when it is removed and then installed he told me to buy one for his car. But he said he wouldn't buy it, he'll install it if I buy it for him hahaha :biglaugh:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Jay thank you.. that piece of information is perfect. It sounds like a must have for me. I'll be looking into it.

Thanks again
You're welcome, if you finally get one, please post some of your experiences. Ill be glad to know that what I noticed isn't psychological :)
 

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Jayson described the exact same scenario of what mine does as well when using the power windows or even raising/lowering the roof. Thanks for the write up. After I purchase and get it installed, I will follow up.
 

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Chicky, he has "Raizin" model.
Jay, I've been researching about it and there are tons of them on Ebay. However, prices range from as low as $17 to $60
Some of them say "Univesal", JDM, QQU. Also they come in different colors: Blue, Red, Purple, Green.
I also came up with this site only.
http://www.pivotracing.com/product/VS-1
Just don't want to end up with "fake". I read some last for about 4 months and then die, and hopefully don't blow up =)
 

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I had my dad check it out for me, my dad has electrical background after working for a major radio station here in my country. He wanted to open it up but I said no need because you can see through the case. He found that the unit worked as a surge suppressor, it uses the condensers as storage for the electrical charge it needs to pick up the slack of the alternator when you turn on electrical units in your car. He explained to me that in normal car operation the alternator already serves as the voltage regulator/ surge suppressor of the whole car, but when you turn on other electrical components such as aircon, power windows/seats/mirrors, and stereo units with high electrical requirements the alternator lacks the necessary voltage so it gets the voltage needed from the battery itself, thus it drains the battery, now this unit helps the battery to compensate for the needed charge by releasing the electrical charge it stored in its condensers, while maintaining the voltage, this prevents voltage spikes that can damage electrical systems, such as aircon stereo, etc. basically he said it works in the same way automatic voltage regulators do for desktop computers and refrigerators. He also said it is not required that you have it in your car cause you already have an alternator, but it serves as a precaution to prevent further damage when your alternator fails, it also extends the life of the alternator and battery. But it still depends on the condition and quality of the parts. All in all after showing him what it can do, when it is removed and then installed he told me to buy one for his car. But he said he wouldn't buy it, he'll install it if I buy it for him hahaha :biglaugh:
Condenser? I'm not familiar with any electrical storage component called a condenser. Do you mean capacitor? If so, any capacitor that would fit into the device you posted a photo of would not be able to store enough energy to do anything noticeable for a car's electrical system under heavy loads. Anything that small would have maybe 1,000 uF of capacitance. In contrast a stereo amplifier may use more than 100,000 uF of capacitance distributed amongst several electrolytic capacitors the size of a can of V8 juice along with a 10+ lb hunk of iron and copper known as a toroidal power transformer that may have an output of 1+ KvA. That sort of energy storage may give you a very brief but meaningful storage capacity. But it's entirely impractical in a car. Hence the alternator.

And a capacitor alone won't do much for surge suppression. That's a job for thyristors. But those are only useful for clamping excessive voltage peaks very quickly and very briefly and they are self-sacrificing meaning every time they absorb an abnormal burst of energy they are degraded until they are no longer effective. Hence you need to replace a surge suppressor after a major voltage spike.

But we're talking lightning strikes on power lines here. Something not intended by designers of consumer products and totally out of their control. A car in contrast is not connected to a mains line subject to lightning strikes and will seldom be subject to extreme voltage or current spikes. A car is a pretty well controlled environment and they are seldom subject to lightning strikes.

If you want this thing as a volt meter, OK enjoy. As for the rest of the claims, there is absolutely zero science behind any of that.

This thing falls into the Tornado camp for me. Remember these http://tornadoair.com/
 

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Yup, its the pivot raizin model, its the model with 4 capacitors only. Raizin has 4 models, the first version is the blue one, which was introduced in 2003, it doesn't have the led display but has 4 condensers/capacitors, the red one is specially made for spark plugs which is called raizin spark, the yellow one is called raizin sound which is for the sound system. And the latest version is the purple one, called mega raizin with 5 condensers/capacitors.

Raizin is the popular one in Japan and in Asia. So being a popular item it was subject to fake or copy models made in parts of south east Asia. I bought mine from a local Japanese tuner shop I frequently visited when I was modding my Honda, until I sold it with all the mods included :( the shop owner sold me a unit described by her as a class A copy, (she didn't use the word fake) so I bought it. The reason I bought it was because the genuine one was 200 dollars that shipped straight from Japan. It's hard to find a genuine one here. So having my "fake" raizin on hand I went first to my Japanese tuner friends and showed them the unit. They told me it doesn't matter whether its a fake or not, the fake one performs the same as the genuine one, they even showed me proof, they hooked up what I have to another car then observed it, then hooked up a genuine one to the same car. Same results. Aircon did not affect the idle.. Etc... Most of the guys there are using the fake ones, some of them say it lasted for 3 years already up to now, while others say it only lasted them for a year, but they were still gonna buy the fake one, instead of paying 200 dollars. But no one told me it lasted only for 4 months. So I was convinced to hook it up to the car, because I already had it, I didnt want to return it because i have a very good relationship with the store and i get a huge discount always, but i didn't know at the time I bought it that there were really fake ones. So there I believe I have the fake one but it works. Don't worry I'll update you guys if it will die out. Oh it won't blow up, it uses .5 Ma only, and they told me they never heard of it blowing up.
 
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