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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,
My Name is Dan and I own a 2008, SLK280. I would like to thank this community for helping me with information’s on repair. I appreciate your help.
I recently had a problem with my Vario roof. Roof was not opening and hydraulic oil was coming out of front of roof. Thanks to this community I was able to find the thread about the ring and replaced it.
Now the roof does not operate. When I push the roof switch nothing happens, no noise, nothing. Please I need your help!!
While changing the ring in Hydraulic cylinder I made a mistake of not releasing the pressure and I had the top open in half way position for 2 days.
I did release the pressure later and could close the roof manually, but the windows are down, Trunk won’t close and there is no noise when I push the roof switch.
I checked the fuses, they are OK. I disconnected the battery for one hour and try to reset the system that did not work. I ran the car and charge the battery for 30 min and that did not work either.
Please look at some Pics I included.
1- Does the roof switch should light up similar to mirror switch when I start the car?
2- Is there any sensor that must be reset?
 

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Administrator 2009 SLK 55 AMG/Founding member 2006
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94,124 Posts
Welcome to SLKWorld.com: The #1 Mercedes-Benz SLK Forum from Florida!

owner's and maintenance manuals great R171 info:

later year owner's/maintenance/comand manuals, top right in the link below:
Bill's Den: Documents

Lube those seals:
http://www.slkworld.com/general-discussion/20937-spring-here~gummi-pflege-lube-your-seals-lithium-grease-your-joints-hinges.html#post226839

your brochure:
http://www.slkworld.com/general-discussion/167265-mercedes-brochure-archive.html#post1511249

mods you should do:
smarttop

http://www.slkworld.com/general-discussion/121481-what-smarttop-all-members-keep-talking-about.html

clear or tinted side markers
shorty antenna
led license plate bulbs
led parking lights
carbon fiber on the C pillars http://www.slkworld.com/general-modifications-r171/50849-ive-taken-cf-plunge.html
carbon fiber center caps
oem windscreen or lighted/etched windscreen

See my mod albums for more ideas

FREE GIFT! Post your vin in the Vehicle Datacard Request section to get a free datacard (options on your car). If looking for a car, get the options before you buy!

http://www.slkworld.com/vehicle-data-card/67706-free-how-get-free-datacard.html


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Registered 2004 SLK 200K
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10,745 Posts
Welcome from Madrid...

Check out this thread and read, with special attention to the details, the attached thumbnail/pdf en post #11 .

http://www.slkworld.com/slk-r171-class-diy/226721-close-vario-roof-r171-manually.html

It's quite possible that you need to use a fair bit of force to close the trunk and also raise&reset the rear windows with STAR/DAS diagnosis...

In answer to your question about the light on the switch, no, that's for engaging the towing feature of the alarm.
 

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I was having a similar problem. Another member here suggested that I make some jumpers and install them in the connectors to the micro-switches.
I did that for the two trunk/boot lid switches on each side. I could then get the pump to operate. (I had replaced the roof latch cylinder and the two trunk/boot cylinders.)
It did take a little while to get everything going like it should as the system needed to refill and purge the air. I had to refill the pump 3 times to do this.
After I got the system to completely operate through one cycle on its own, I found that I had to bend the arm of both switches for the trunk up a little or they would not close the switch. Once I did that I could remove the jumpers, reconnect to the micro-switches and all is well.
I had tried not only pushing down hard on the trunk corners but I had sat my 230+ lb body on the corners in an attempt to get the switches to contact. That did not work.
Using the jumpers allowed me to find what switches were not operating as they should.
It doesn't take much of a wire to make a jumper. I used about a half inch of left over speaker wire for each one. Bent it into a U shape and stuck them in the connectors.
 

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Premium Member 2008 SLK350
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290 Posts
Hi Dan, resetting the errors should get it all going again. The only way to get the boot down, is to decompress or remove the 2 cylinders at the rear.
 

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Premium Member 2008 SLK350
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290 Posts
You need to have either a ODB2 reader which can reset the errors, or the DAS/STAR which most dealers have
 

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Premium Member 2005 SLK55 AMG
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11,254 Posts
Hi Dan, and welcome to SLKWorld.com from the UK Midlands - Thanks for joining us and posting an intro! :)

I can't add anything to the suggestions that have already been made above... I hope you manage to resolve the roof issue soon.
 

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Super Moderator CA 2012 SLK55 AMG w/P30
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11,920 Posts
Welcome from Canada Dan :grin:

___________________
Len
 

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Super Moderator UK SLK 55 AMG 2007
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25,437 Posts
Hi Dan,

Welcome from Wirral, England.

It's probably best to post a separate thread for questions as not all members read intros.
That said, you've been given some good places to start.

You're in a good place for regional meets/local info:
U.S. California - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

Good luck with your fix.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thank you everyone!

I have 2 questions about the site:

Since this is a intro section where do I post a tread?
also is there a place where I can search by zip code and find Ind. shops near me?

Best regards,
Dan
 

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Administrator 2009 SLK 55 AMG/Founding member 2006
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94,124 Posts
At hockey game :D
You have a r171
Post new questions in the r171 general discussion section
Don't post the one in your intro
 

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Administrator 2009 SLK 55 AMG/Founding member 2006
Joined
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94,124 Posts
Google
Mechanics file
Car talk
 

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Premium Member 2009 SLK 55 AMG
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11,306 Posts
Welcome from the Sacramento Valley SLK Enthusiasts!
 

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Hi dedgar,

What switch did you have to jump?
Is that to close the trunk? and what do you mean by making a jumper?

Thanks
There are two micro-switches for the trunk lid. They let the system know if the trunk lid is fully closed or not. One on either side of the trunk behind the lining on the sides.
The micro-switch for the roof locking/unlocking the also in the trunk behind the lining on the right side forward of the trunk closed switch.
The system must know that the trunk lid is closed to either start opening the roof or to start closing the roof. If the system does not have closed trunk lid indications, nothing will happen except you most likely will get a rapid flashing red led in the actuating switch in the center console.
The jumper is just a piece of wire. You disconnect the wiring connector from the micro-switch and stuff the wire in the two wiring holes on the connector. That makes the system think that the trunk lid is fully closed because it thinks the micro-switches are closed.
If you decide to go this route you will figure out what size wire you need when you remove any of the micro-switch electrical connectors and look at the two holes. I just used some speaker wire.
I had to use the jumpers because the switches were out of adjustment and the system didn't know the trunk lid was fully closed. Once I determined that was the problem the fix was easy. Just bend the metal arm up a bit and retest without the jumper and the connector reattached to the switch.
This was after I got the roof to actuate and go through a full cycle with the jumpers in place.
Closed to open and open to closed. That way the hydraulics had pressure holding the lid fully closed.
 
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