Efair: thanks, the emergency key got me into the trunk. Now I'm trying to get out the trunk liner over the right wheel well. I tried closing my eyes like you do, but that didn't help. 😀 I've removed a number of plastic retainer pins and screws, but the plastic trim piece across the back of the trunk is holding the liner and seems to not want to come out. Any tips? Thanks!
Vario roof Code 9923: roof won't finish closing
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it's an intermediate connector youre seeking, right? Not a module? I suggest you go ahead and remove the liners, it's a rite of passage in these cars. irritating the first time or two, but after that, easy. Just know that you do have to manhandle the carpeting there, and it takes a lot of finger strength.
Sure enough. I finally spotted that intermediate connector by sticking my phone back there and snapping a picture. Then I got the liner out and tested the blue and brown wires: the connection is open, even though the roof is up and SEEMS to be locked in place. I already tested the switch at the headliner and it's ok. So I guess it has to be either 1) the wire run between the switch and the intermediate connector has a break, 2) the roof is not really locked, or 3) the thing on the locking claw that pushes on the switch when locked is bent or somehow missing the switch lever. I guess I'm making progress, since I suppose I've ruled out a problem from the intermediate connector onward. No other error codes are showing up, so presumably there's not a problem with a module sending a lock command to the claw hydraulic piston, and I've just had that piston, which had been leaking but operable, rebuilt. That does make me think, though, is there some hangup with that piston, although the roof worked ok maybe 20 times since the rebuild. Thanks for all your help so far!
I thought you said you verified the switch was working correctly earlier... I'm 99% sure you're looking at a wire break between the intermediate connector and the switch, in the "flex area". Easy to prove with a simple resistance test.
Yes, the switch was tested and is fine. I'm questioning whether the actuator from the lock claw is actually depressing the switch (either bent or not being actuated by the hydraulic piston. But the wire run is the most likely culprit. Resistance test is the next step. Thanks!
Well, I've done a resistance test on the wires running from switch to intermediate connector. They are good. Also tested switch to intermediate connector, and the connection opens and closes properly when the switch lever is hand activated. So I focused on the locking mechanism. I took the enclosed photos with the headliner loose and the roof both up and down. When up, and should be locked in place, what I believe is the "hammer" does not touch and depress the switch arm. When the top is open, it looks like the distance between hammer and switch arm is even larger, but the switch arm is not depressed in either case. I'm guessing the hydraulic piston is not actuating the arms to the locking claws. Don't know much about hydraulic pistons, and not sure how to test this. I did note a motor runs longer than normal before the cycle stops, maybe the hydraulic pump. Any ideas? Thanks.
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Follow-up: I just discovered there's a hex fitting at the rotation point of the arms working the claws. I activated the roof up switch, and as soon as the roof met the windshield, I turned the hex key. The claws locked, the cycle completed, all windows went up and the trunk unlocked!! So at least until I can get the piston fixed, I can get the roof up and stay dry!
So turning the hex counter-clockwise caused further travel of the rotaries, and caused the switch to close fully and the process to complete... interesting. That's an unusual symptom.
Is there any indication of fluid loss at this cylinder?
Replacing the piston and its lines is a reasonable next step, although I might try lubricating the rotaries and claw first.
Was it necessary to open the relief valve before turning the hex?
Is there any indication of fluid loss at this cylinder?
Replacing the piston and its lines is a reasonable next step, although I might try lubricating the rotaries and claw first.
Was it necessary to open the relief valve before turning the hex?
When I bought the car about a month ago, it had a fluid leak there, and I had a local BMW / MB mechanic rebuild the cylinder and refill the pump reservoir. Worked fine for weeks, maybe 15 up/down travels. No leaks since. I did get it to lock on its own once this morning, then fail several times. I'll try lubricating. At least with the hex key making it lock, it's not the end of the world. And I didn't have to open the relief valve. So it's easy enough to do without getting out of the driver's seat. Thanks!
Yes it is. Frankly, I'm pretty happy with the situation. I'll probably review it with the mechanic that rebuilt the piston, but compared with the difficulty of securing the top of all the other convertibles I've owned over the years, locking the top with the hex key is a non-issue. Thanks!
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