This is my first post, and I'm hoping someone can shed light on my problem. I have a newly purchased R171 2011 SLK300. For several weeks the Vario roof has been raising and lowering as it should. Today I tried raising it, and all appeared normal until the trunk lid lowered. Then the motor sound continued longer than normal, and then stopped. Neither the front nor vent windows ever raised. The trunk cannot be opened (although it can if I put the top back down, which appears to work ok). And the dash indicated that roof raising was in progress. The main windows can be raised and lowered with the window switches. My Icarsoft i980 scanner yielded code 9923: "S69/3(Vario roof "locked" limit switch (right rotary tumbler): The component does not operate or has a cable break" Thanks.
Vario roof Code 9923: roof won't finish closing
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My guess: the wiring for S69/3, which flexes with the boot lid opening, has broken. Cut away the sheath around the harness at the left hinge and inspect the wires carefully (blue/yellow and brown wires especially). Since you can open the roof, perhaps you could remove the headliner and inspect this switch too.
I tested the switch: was able to get an ohmmeter on the blue and yellow wires coming from it. The circuit closed when I manually pressed the switch lever numerous times, so I think the switch itself is ok. I tried following the switch wires which are in a gray cover. They don't attach to the left boot cover arm, but rather to the right roof arm. As best I can see, the cover appears undamaged, but difficult to see clearly, and it disappears into the area behind the passenger seat. If I knew where it emerges, at a module or whatever, I could test the switch and wire run together to determine if the problem is in that run or at a module. Meanwhile, can't drive with the top up. Anyone shed more light on the problem? Thanks!
Before I cut into that, a couple of questions. As you can see by attached photos, the wires for my switch, which is on the passenger side, blue and yellow in a gray sheath, run down the right side arm for the top (actually the side pillar for the rear window, and disappear toward the front of the car. Are you saying they then make their way to the driver's side, and go up the trunk arm into the trunk lid? Is there a module in that lid, perhaps behind the black plastic panel containing the emergency trunk release button, that would control the hydraulic pump and the trunk latch and tell the dash the cycle is complete? If so, might the switch wires be easier to access and test there, instead of cutting into the sheath on the trunk arm. Sorry for the length of this post, but I want to make sure I understand, and that your 55 AMG is set up the same as my car. Thanks!
Attachments
Oh - my bad, yes, the wire for S69/3 traverses the hinges on the side of the roof, not the boot lid. There is an intermediate connector atop the right rear wheel well for these two wires (it's hidden behind the trunk liner). The brown leads to the ground connection nearby, while the Blue/Yellow leads to connector 2 pin 19 on the roof module (which is in the passenger compartment).
If you have your right trunk liner out, you should check the wiring from the intermediate connector to the switch when it is failing.
What you need is some sort of high end scanner that can view the live data of all switches.
You're going to need one anyway if you're going to go the diy route and fixing your car. SDS preferred... Though there are other tools, but they don't come close to SDS.
You're going to need one anyway if you're going to go the diy route and fixing your car. SDS preferred... Though there are other tools, but they don't come close to SDS.
Sorry our last posts crossed in mid-air. There is no sense in cutting into the sheath on the boot lid hinge to diagnose S69/3 (although your abundance of orange wire-ties there leads me to wonder if there has been trouble there before).
You have two choices now: access the roof module and ohm out S69/3 from there; or access the intermediate connector on the right rear wheel well and ohm out S69/3 from there. I would choose the latter because I can remove the trunk liners with my eyes closed now.
There is no difference in this wiring among the various models.
You have two choices now: access the roof module and ohm out S69/3 from there; or access the intermediate connector on the right rear wheel well and ohm out S69/3 from there. I would choose the latter because I can remove the trunk liners with my eyes closed now.
There is no difference in this wiring among the various models.
I'm not seeing a way into that right rear wheel cover from the trunk when the top is down. The cover is blocked by the roof arms. You said there's another module to access behind the passenger seat. Does that involve removing the plastic fitted over the roll bars, and the console and storage compartment to remove the felt? Or is it accessed from the trunk (perhaps by someone with a smaller head than mine to fit under the luggage compartment cover? Top being down limits access, and with top up but not "locked", the trunk won't open.
But then the trunk won't unlock. Because unlock happens AFTER the top is locked in place. I see no way in.
Are you saying put the top fully forward but leave the trunk lid up? Maybe that would leave enough maneuvering room to get the cover off over the wheel well in the trunk.
Are you saying put the top fully forward but leave the trunk lid up? Maybe that would leave enough maneuvering room to get the cover off over the wheel well in the trunk.
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