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UK battery size

3K views 72 replies 13 participants last post by  BaD_81 
#1 ·
I put my SLK to sleep for the winter in December.
At the time I didn't disconnect the battery. So, when the cover came off on Thursday I was dismayed to find the battery discharged completly.

A voltmeter shows it as having a voltage of about 3v.
I do have a Noco battery tender and have tried unsuccessfully to revive the battery, leaving it connected for ~5 hours. The indicator does not rise above the 25% charge in that time. The tender does have a "repair" and "force" function on it, but I am now preparing myself for purchasing a new battery if using the repair function tomorrow does not get the thing back to life.

Currently it has a Yuasa battery installed, but I cannot for the life of me find the UK sizing to get a replacement. Any reference I've found on this forum seems to refer to a US sizing guide, which I cannot find the equivilent UK sizing.

Any help would be greatly appreciated :)


A pre-winter clean before it got covered.
 
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1
#2 ·
096

alternatives
 
#3 ·
Yes Len, 096 here in dear ol' Blighty :)

 
#5 · (Edited)
Because I am with same brand battery and I remember it was the largest AH one, that fit under the hood, plus feeling lazy to pop the bonnet up, the search gave this answer:
YBX5096 Yuasa Silver High Performance Car Battery 12V 80Ah HSB096
I do remember having the surprise of findings like, same seller have the same battery a bit cheaper ovet their ebay store with free delivery.
All of the above is my experience, no guarantees whatsoever are included!
😉
 
#6 ·
YBX5096 Yuasa Silver High Performance Car Battery 12V 80Ah HSB096
You are quite correct, 096 being the magic number in UK (y)
 
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#13 ·
My local factor has just started selling NAPA in place of Oldham (I used to buy Oldham and have fitted thousands over the years ........... with almost no issues ............

Since they have started selling NAPA :unsure: I now buy Varta or Bosch from another factors ;)
 
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#14 ·
I put my SLK to sleep for the winter in December.
At the time I didn't disconnect the battery. So, when the cover came off on Thursday I was dismayed to find the battery discharged completly.

A voltmeter shows it as having a voltage of about 3v.
I do have a Noco battery tender and have tried unsuccessfully to revive the battery, leaving it connected for ~5 hours. The indicator does not rise above the 25% charge in that time. The tender does have a "repair" and "force" function on it, but I am now preparing myself for purchasing a new battery if using the repair function tomorrow does not get the thing back to life.

Currently it has a Yuasa battery installed, but I cannot for the life of me find the UK sizing to get a replacement. Any reference I've found on this forum seems to refer to a US sizing guide, which I cannot find the equivilent UK sizing.

Any help would be greatly appreciated :)


A pre-winter clean before it got covered.
Hi, I found that my 230 eats batteries if left for any amount of time, something I found was a common comment on UK sites. So I leave mine on change when it's not in use (second car for hood-down days), and now it's no longer a problem. I've bought batteries from euro parts, and they supply lion batteries which fit the space and have plenty of power to turn the engine over. I understand from general comments its the alarm system that chews the battery, so maybe a decent windscreen solar charger may do a good job.
Hope this helps.
Geoff.
 
#15 ·
@Geoff Campbell .....................

Hi Geoff,

Really you need to diagnose exactly what is draining the Battery ;)

Common culprit is the Alarm Siren, don't faff with it, it's under the scuttle near the centre.

It has lasted 19 years on your car, just buy a replacement from MB Dealership Parts, bought one recently circa £110 IIRC ...............

Please do verify that is the culprit first by proper testing with a meter between disconnected Battery Earth Lead and Battery terminal. Should only see about 10 - 12 mA drain if all is good ;)
At that level of drain a good Battery can stand for ~ 4 weeks without being charged, and still starts the Car.

The PSE would be the next suspect if not the Siren, so yeah, proper diagnosis rather than just chucking expensive parts at it ;)

You don't want to do this lol ....



HTH :)
 
#18 ·
@Geoff Campbell .....................

Hi Geoff,

Really you need to diagnose exactly what is draining the Battery ;)

Common culprit is the Alarm Siren, don't faff with it, it's under the scuttle near the centre.

It has lasted 19 years on your car, just buy a replacement from MB Dealership Parts, bought one recently circa £110 IIRC ...............

Please do verify that is the culprit first by proper testing with a meter between disconnected Battery Earth Lead and Battery terminal. Should only see about 10 - 12 mA drain if all is good ;)
At that level of drain a good Battery can stand for ~ 4 weeks without being charged, and still starts the Car.

The PSE would be the next suspect if not the Siren, so yeah, proper diagnosis rather than just chucking expensive parts at it ;)

You don't want to do this lol ....



HTH :)
Cheers Dave. You may well be right about the alarm siren. I just tried to set the alarm off and the indicators were flashing but no sound from the siren so I need to have a look at this. Thanks for the suggestion. You say it's under the scuttle near the centre, can you be a bit more precise? Is it covered over ? 🤔
 
#17 ·
My Lion (171) just keeps on going (now it will stop) I used to be worried - all the advice on the site about how all the computers will throw gremlins at you if your battery is not in tip top condition - so I got myself one of those dashboard solar panels. My battery was always at 11.6 and I thought perhaps there's a drain of some sort. Nothing I did seemed to make much difference and the dash says my battery likes to sit at around 11.6 and when running takes 13.5 at idle and 14.1 when running.

Anyway, after a while I chilled the $@^ out and decided that my battery just is that way. Now I don't worry, I just get in the car and drive the bleeding thing. This winter I had one day when it didn't crank first time having been left for a couple of weeks so I took the battery out and charged it.

I recon these things are replaceable and have a life to them, this one is 2 and a half years old. If it gives up the ghost next winter then I'll feel happy. I mean 35 quid a year is not very pricy in SLK terms :)
 
#21 ·
As a side note,
Yes it is stupid but, OP's car is UK 1997, mine is '98 the Scorpio alarm of mine had the siren and battery pack (as a combo) next to the fan control module on "top" of my left front wheel. And it should be visible.
As I said just a side note.
 
#24 ·
@BaD_81 @Rofa

I'm sure you guys are aware that Geoff below is not OP and his car is 2003 meaning it will have the Siren where I said, unless it has had the Scorpion, but IIRC the facelift Cars never got that option from MB ;)



Just to confirm please see my comment above in this post, so because your car is 2003 it is almost certain it should have Siren as opposed to Horn type Alarm, unless as I said it has been messed with ;)
 
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#29 ·
Yep, that's what I was thinking. The outside drains on both sides were fully blocked and the centre one was letting water out but was full of **** as well the drain with the hopper on from the scuttle was clear. We have many trees around here and an Ash tree that sheds thousands of seeds each year and many have found their way through into the scuttle area. Just one more job. I'll look info making/fitting a grill over the fan opening if no one has an idea of what the original situation is. Cheers.
 
#30 ·
I'll look info making/fitting a grill over the fan opening if no one has an idea of what the original situation is. Cheers.
As @Rofa said, there is no original grill 🤷‍♂️

One more thing whilst you're in the vicinity that has raised it's head locally, is that the wiper arm pivots can dry out to the point that the wipers will slow down and eventually fail to move - extreme case is that the wiper motor will burn out as a result :( Easy preventative maintenance is to squirt some penetrating oil up into the pivot points whilst operating the wipers, keep your fingers out of the way whilst doing so ;)
 
#37 ·
0.1 Amp is a bit too much, but if we assume it is not delivered 100% charged and hope within few hours/starts it will be fully charged. As far as I am aware 0.040 Amp is the very max. Just take a look at it in a week time or so!
 
#40 · (Edited)
0.1 Amp is a bit too much,
Way too much, all the R170's I've ever tested have 10 - 13 mA (0.01 - 0.013 A) ;)

Interesting that you got a beep/chirp as well .. it's not standard for UK
Mercedes are now selling an updated Siren with IIRC W219 Part number ;)
I've done 3 recently on different MB's and all now chirp, but it is a quieter chirp, I also set them off to test and then it's loud ;)

Regards the HVAC, isn't the fresh Air / Recirc Flap supposed to close upon Key out.......... Certainly did on that W204 I had in a gazillion bits the other day ...............
 
#49 ·
3. Stay respectful. If you feel something negative towards a user/post, please try to state your case in a calm and respectable fashion. Replying to the post just to stir the pot and not offering anything of value is highly frowned upon.

Remember, we are not all MB trained technicians.

In my case, not even an untrained MB oik.
 
#53 ·
3. Stay respectful. If you feel something negative towards a user/post, please try to state your case in a calm and respectable fashion…..
as stated i was genuinely curious about clarifying the units
if i inadvertently screwed up then my apologies to the whole gang as its more of a family thing here than just a forum [emoji846]
 
#50 ·
:ROFLMAO:

What Geoff is trying to say is that he has 10 - 20 mA which is = to 0.01 A to 0.02 A

Those figures are perfectly fine for an R170 ;) A good battery will still start the car fine after 4 weeks + if left standing ;)
 
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#60 ·
...
so how’s y’all’s batteries doing these days? [emoji846]
I believe @Geoff Campbell is satisfied with the 20-40miliAmps after all the sweat and readings for the moment, but polite enough to not request "closure" of this otherwise "endless" fountain of knowledge! Wide and unexpected in computer science, applicable math, measuring of otherwise unneeded µ values, etc.
Geoff my 1998 230K somehow keeps the electronics "alive" if I use my key to unlock and open the trunk, after it is closed and locked (key, not remote) it still holds 80-100mAmps. So if once the remote is used (as per my experience) mechanical interventions do not reach that state of "rest" we all need to keep the batteries in healthy condition. Just on a good to know basis!
 
#62 · (Edited)
Whoa! Holy electrons Batman!
so it is 0 . 0 2 m A (on the mA scale)
that sure looks like 20uA … which is practically no draw
glad you posted the pic! [emoji39]

OK … now all the car wizzes can explain the 3 orders of magnitude drop from common draws

I will presume the probe tips have a well established contact (thru oxidation crud etc) and the reading is still practically nothing

However all that said a change to a different probe current port shows 0.2A (on the A scale) so back to the 200mA draw again ( more realistic? )

Something fishy with the multimeter internal impedance or reference??
 
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