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The vehicle is 1998 SLK 230K.
Recent purchase and the problems began before I even get it to my place.
So if there is a description for a NON RUNNER...
I purchased the vehicle from a private seller, on the way to the petrol station I saw the speedometer is not moving the needle looks so dead!
On the M1, from Coventry to Leicester the car did not actually performed well. Shifting UP = no way! Pulled over switched S - W modes, nope, no difference.
The temperature went high enough so the symbol with the radiator came on (as did the fan).
Recovery truck, 1.5 hours and £113 later it was in front of my place.
As I tried to transfer the vehicle on my name and tax it before I start to Leicester, I figured out that the Log-Book is not the right one.
DVLA confirmed that(Older not the last one). And the one I got later showed 1 more owner than the ADD.
Contacted Citizen's Advice and so many other organizations but as there is no contract for the sale and I have no address of the seller, well dead-end.
Yesterday I got the MB to OBD II cable and the OBD II scanner connected to the specialized socket and it showed P0170, P0500 and P1747.
The cluster shows brake pads/disks warning but they need change. Nothing else, no engine light on, nothing.

SO the speedometer not moving could be because of the fault speed sensor.
I read this https://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-general-discussion/372609-transmission-top-not-working-p0500-p1747.html it explains much!
This one https://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-general-discussion/207969-p0500-fault.html is helping too!
https://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-general-discussion/534369-p0170-obdii-code.html Detailed and helpful!

The action plan I have is diagnose first, replace later.
I have ordered auto gearbox oil and filter. Nothing in the service records I have (how much of a real deal it is, is another question) and waiting for some tools to arrive. But correct plan for "attack" helps more than anything.

The questions are:
Is there a manual with wiring diagrams for the ECU/TCM and all the peripherals attached that I have missed?
Open circuit vs short circuit, shall it confirm is the sensor's good/bad?
MAF cleaner vs MAF bypass? If I unhook it and there is no reading should the error disappear? Or extra error will show up?
O2 sensor is it easy to diagnose - OHM meter or VOLT meter? Open circuit? Short circuit?
P1747, where to start it from? It's way too "wide" area to look for!
Is the OBDII connected with extra cabling good enough to CLEAR the active codes or I do need STAR?
If a reliable garage in Leicester is mentioned I will be glad to consult/visit it!
Well any suggestions are welcomed!

 

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I know you are looking to scan, but with this cars background I recommend a proper MB scan.

This can be done by an MB indy. Must be many in the Midlands with SLK experience.
SDS scans much deeper. Generic kit may give a clue of the general issue, but SDS should locate it.

Many of your fixes with be in these two sections

R170 diy
https://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-class-diy/


R170 TSBs
https://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-service-campaigns-tsb/
@Dave2302 can give some pointers with luck (looking for your SDS post, I really must tag it)
 

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Some background on SDS https://www.slkworld.com/das-star-coding/392489-what-das-star-reminder-you-all.html

In terms that I understand...
Generic gives you a hotel name.
Sds identifies the room number in the hotel.
/\ /\ /\

Absolutely this !!

Generic gets you to the Ball Park ....................

SDS takes you to your Row, then your Seat, and after that if needed it will take you to the Toilet and wipe your .............................. >:D

WIS and EPC will have the Wiring Diagrams, Part Numbers etc, and yep, that's on SDS too ;)

HTH, Cheers Dave
 

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Hi,

OK, I was a bit busy this morning, tea break now.

Your shifting issues will likely be down to the speed sensor fault ............... But which one, that generic code doesn't really help :(

As Myk has pointed out a Generic Code Reader will be not much use here ;)

There could be an ABS Wheel Sensor problem, is ABS / ESP light on on Dash ?? ........... Does it even come on when you first turn Ignition to on Position ??

It could be the Turbine Speed Sensor or Output Speed Sensor on the Conductor Plate inside Transmission.

I would hope that it got hot purely because it was revving high due to not shifting up through the Gears, (if your lucky).

Is Coolant Level OK ??

Did it blow Coolant out when / before it got hot ??

How hot did it get on Gauge ??

You may also have the "Oil Wicking into TCU issue" is the PRND Indicator on Dash changing as you move the Shifter with Engine Running, or is it just Blank / Black Blob ??
If it is this it will require the Pilot Plug on Transmission replacing, but that should be done anyways with a Trans Oil and Filter job, and definitely done if you need to change the Conductor Plate due to bad Speed Sensor.

Answer all the questions above, and we can get a better picture, and offer more help :wink:

I am simply mystified why you bought a Mercedes without a decent test drive, an at best iffy V5, and do not know the whereabouts of it's owner, I'm guessing this was a "Meet me in Tesco's Car Park" type sale :surprise:

I sincerely hope you didn't pay a lot for it, and it turns out to be an easy fix, which it may well do :wink:

Before you go spending a bunch I would suggest taking it to a decent Indie Garage for an MOT test, despite whatever MOT it may have currently !!

HTH, Cheers Dave
 

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Hi, ..............

A little more, re Lambda Sensor MAF etc ..................

Don't just change Lambda becase of a Fuel Trim Code, it could be an Air Leak or similar ;)

Guessing and playing Parts Darts is the expensive way to repair faults on any Car, especially an MB.

Un plugging components will just give you more Fault Codes, it does not prove much if anything for many and varied reasons.
With a MAF, if you can get A KNOWN GOOD ONE, then it's worth swapping it to prove a point, and good advice is to stay clear of 'el cheapo' Ebay parts on components as critical as these, at very least you should be buying OEM as a replacement, if not MB OE ;)

HTH, Cheers Dave
 

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Well there is always another way!

1 pdf file as attachment!

I was told that if a solution looks stupid but works it's not stupid!

Unfortunately i see it annoying!

Anyway it is attached!


Page 2

Thanks!
 

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@BaD_81 I took a screenie of your PDF and added it as a pic to your post. Attached PDF's are downloaded to a viewers cell/computer and then takes up space/has to be deleted. This pic can just be enlarged to be more easily read/seen :tu:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
@Avel Du
PC and Android powered mobile is what I am using.
However, when it comes to post I prefer the big screen and the keyboard, not the touch screen! @LeonardoDaBenz
The screenshot I saw is one page only and I can't read it on 55" 4K TV hooked as a display. It might be only me and I haven't tried mobile device!
 

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Like somebody once said:

You can please some of the people all of the time, you can please all of the people some of the time, but you can’t please all the people all of the time” (Poet John Lydgate as made famous by Abraham Lincoln).

My bad missing that 2nd page. Its added now. Folks can still download the (edited) pdf you added :tu:
 

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Hi @BaD_81 ,

OK, apologies, had a ton of grief this morning :(

Right, I got your PDF and read it :)

OK, I think with any luck this will not be too costly.................

The yellow ( ) light is telling you "Worn Brake Pads", which may be, or damaged or not replaced the "Wear Indicator Wires".

Red ( ) is either Handbrake on, or Brake Fluid Low, or the switches / wiring relating to them ;)

First thing can you try Gearshifting wise is to get some local garage, at least with "Snap -On" or "Launch", but preferably SDS if you can find one, to do a full code read or at least read your ABS and Trans ECU, Dash if they can access it, make a note of ALL Codes.

Now Clear all codes and go for a Drive, get them to re read it and see what has come back, then report it all here.

I have a feeling the lack of shifting may be either Oil in the TCU, lift up passenger floor Carpet folding it backwards, remove foam panel, remove 3 x plastic 10mm nuts and fold the Aluminium Footrest panel backwards the TCU is smallish black box, "EGS 51 or 52" ................. un plug it and see if the connectors are oily !!

If they are carefully remove plastic TCU cover, wash out cover and circuit board / connectors and wiring plugs with Brake Cleaner or proper Electrical Cleaner and blow dry, plug in and try again.

If no Oil and you get Transmission Codes for Speed Sensors, it will be a Conductor Plate Job.

If there is Oil change the Connector Plug on Trans, plus it's Oil and Filter, might be worth doing Conductor Plate even if no Speed Sensor issues while you're at it :wink:

Get back to us here with more info when you have it, you also need to buy the Dipstick tool as Trans has no Dipstick, check the Fluid Level, Idling in P, at normal running temp (80c) ;)

HTH, Cheers Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hey All,
@Dave2302,
The passenger side carpet.... suggestion is great! I haven't read better description!
Regarding the rest

Only 2 Pictures tonight :) I have the manuals in a small pouch!
And as the car is SORN and stays away of my place (no drive) I got the wheels OFF on the driver side only! It looks like this :

I mentioned i got part of my tools right? But the pictures are prior that!
SO I will take the wheels OFF again to see (measure, as I see it) if I need disks and pads (disks look close to their life span end!) or only pads. On the pic is clear the pads can handle one or 3 thousand miles more, but the passenger side is ENIGMA at the moment!
I did an attempt to clean the errors (and that is why I asked is it enough to have Torque pro and the MB - OBD II cable to clear them) but they are the same as you can see them before and after the attempt!

The more I dig, the more I realize the [email protected] pool is getting ONLY deeper! For example the worn-out disk sets (okay only the half I saw) with the original MB pollen filter (have the pic but will not try uploading it now) and the worn-out "cockpit" do suggest many more miles.
The theory that speed sensor send signal to another (was it a box or a board...) that on it's turn sends signal to the speedometer needle (and the main mileage counter) is buzzing in the back of my mind!
21 YO Vehicle with 59'000 on the clock, that was with shiny (mirror finished) disks when I viewed it and 2 days later in dry weather (Last week of July) so much surface rust spots kinda lead to mileage tampering (I know STAR will be the judge here) just at this very moment I need to find a place to move out, to deal with the car as it stays too long there...
Too many water melons under one arm!

I will check the local MOT garage in Friday or Saturday (depending on the viewings I can arrange) AND will update ASAP!

Thanks GUYS!
p.s.
The picture thing is total [email protected] only 2 images this time and blank page>>>>>
 

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... kinda lead to mileage tampering (I know STAR will be the judge here)
Look up it's MOT history to see what the mileages were at the time of the tests. All the way back to 2005 - HERE


I'm still an SDS novice so I may be wrong but from what I can gather:
SDS will tell you what the mileage readings were at the most recent 5 services.
SDS can also set the odo to whatever the operator fancies it to be in case of a *cluster change ..

.. which brings us neatly to:
*If the cluster has been changed, the replacement will hold the mileage from the vehicle that it was pulled from … now there's a thought :surprise:
 

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Hi @M4rCu5 ,

I don't think you can reset Mileage on SDS without having Cluster Virginised first, you can maybe move it 500km each way (not absolutely sure), never needed to actually try any of that ;)

SDS will give you the total Mileage (well km actually) covered by many MB vehicles with EIS because EIS also stores mileage, but not sure about R170 ;)

HTH, Cheers Dave
 
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