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Hey all,

I love my 1999 SLK230, but have been having some issues with the tranny. When I first start it up and put it in reverse to back out of my garage, it lurches real fast and the brakes don't work very well. I'll throw it in park and then take my foot off the brake and it will give a final hard lunge.

When I go to drive it, it will go to high RPMs before shifting out of any gear. Once I get it warmed up and out of my subdivision, it shifts just fine.

I've seen mixed things about transmission fluid in terms of changing it. Should I look into getting it flushed? The MAF sensor was changed about 2 years ago.

Thanks for any help.
 

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I am noticing the same thing with my 99'. Reverse is fine. The problem I have is with the high RPMs and jerk shifting in early gears. Once warmed up no troubles at all. Would be interested to see some thoughts?

This morning it did it when I was pulling out on to a busy highway. It was also raining. Check engine light flashed twice and then stopped. What does that mean?
 

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I am noticing the same thing with my 99'. Reverse is fine. The problem I have is with the high RPMs and jerk shifting in early gears. Once warmed up no troubles at all. Would be interested to see some thoughts?

This morning it did it when I was pulling out on to a busy highway. It was also raining. Check engine light flashed twice and then stopped. What does that mean?
Taking to shift longer in the mornings is normal for transmission. The reason is that the ECU wants to warm up your tranny fluid a bit faster hence it keeps it a little longer at higher rpms when shifting (especially from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd). Once it warms up it becomes smoother. Now another thing is that if it really shifts hard then probably it's time to look at the tranny fluid? I had mine changed last year and I must say it made a big difference. It still holds the gear a little longer while cold but I can tell the difference the interval has decreased and it shifts smoother. It also takes less time for the tranny to warm up. Perhaps over the time the fluid becomes contaminated. Also after I changed my engine and tranny mounts I almost don't feel how it shifts that's how smooth it is now!:tu:
 

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Sounds like I should take mine in for a routing tranny flush then. I'll call the previous owners to see if they did one recently, but I severely doubt it. I'll post the results once I get it done.
 

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Sounds like I should take mine in for a routing tranny flush then. I'll call the previous owners to see if they did one recently, but I severely doubt it. I'll post the results once I get it done.
Since yours is a pre-facelift you should have a plug for torque converter that contains about 3 liters of trans fluid even if you drain it from the pan. This plug makes changing fluid easier than on post-facelifts as far as I understood. The only thing is that you need to position this plug so you can access it from the bottom, unscrew it and drain the fluid =) I can't find this post but it's somewhere. You need to play with the wrench and a pulley to position it.
Check this thread:
http://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-class-diy/24494-transmission-fluid-change.html
 

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How much should I expect to pay a shop charging $90 per hour to change the fluid and put in a new filter? It is definitely acting strange in the mornings. Part of the problem is that I immediately turn onto a 55MPH street so its not really getting the opportunity to "warm" up. Today again I was turning onto the highway and the check engine warning light flashed four times and then went out. I always thought check engine lights stayed on when they found trouble?

Should I also see if I have a dirty MAF sensor Or is that irrelevant?
 

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How much should I expect to pay a shop charging $90 per hour to change the fluid and put in a new filter? It is definitely acting strange in the mornings. Part of the problem is that I immediately turn onto a 55MPH street so its not really getting the opportunity to "warm" up. Today again I was turning onto the highway and the check engine warning light flashed four times and then went out. I always thought check engine lights stayed on when they found trouble?

Should I also see if I have a dirty MAF sensor Or is that irrelevant?
When you start your car in the morning, just sit & let the engine etc. warm up for 3-4 minutes.
 
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