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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So a couple months ago I pirchased my SLK non running and a inoperable top, since then I have her running and have fixed many of the issues and now finally getting around to troubleshooting the top. I have been reading many of the post on the forums but have a question if the side panel pieces in the rear deck are suppose to look as they do in the picture below? They seem to be a little out of place and angled inward but maybe that's normal.

The symptoms I have is the top switch rapidly flashes when trying to put the top down and nothing happens. If pressing the switch forward I can hear the pump in the trunk and the front windows go up followed by door locking sounds.

 

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Founding Member 2006
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Yes they are supposed to look like that from within the read window view from inside
come to lunch tomorrow and see how ours look :D
 

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Founding Member 2006
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108,942 Posts

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Founding Member 2006
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a pic from inside. others on our site

 

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I am always nice. see our lunch meet thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i give up...anyone locally with Star diag or the experience with these tops want to earn a little $$$ this weekend and help me out? I'm in the Trinity area near New Port Richey.

I checked the switches and they appear to be fine.

Thanks
 

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So a couple months ago I pirchased my SLK non running and a inoperable top, since then I have her running and have fixed many of the issues and now finally getting around to troubleshooting the top. I have been reading many of the post on the forums but have a question if the side panel pieces in the rear deck are suppose to look as they do in the picture below? They seem to be a little out of place and angled inward but maybe that's normal.

The symptoms I have is the top switch rapidly flashes when trying to put the top down and nothing happens. If pressing the switch forward I can hear the pump in the trunk and the front windows go up followed by door locking sounds.


I get the quick flashing light and nothing happens when I forget to pull the curtain into the correct position in the boot (trunk) so may be worth checking the limit switches there as a starter.

Regards Stuart.
 

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i give up...anyone locally with Star diag or the experience with these tops want to earn a little $$$ this weekend and help me out? I'm in the Trinity area near New Port Richey.

I checked the switches and they appear to be fine.

Thanks
pm ichris93 and el_toro_33809 :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok, well I finally got around to printing out the wiring diagram for the top and spent the past 3 hours tracing all the ground signals through the switchs and inputs into N10-3 but found no issues. BTW if anyone is looking for an easy way to tap into a wire to measure I highly suggest Posi-taps (see picture) these little things are awesome, its basically a terminal that screws in a little needle and can be removed when finished.

I did put the top down manually to see if anything was abnormal and did come across 2 issues.

(1) the left and right trunk lid locks are not locking and I did not have to pull the cord the free the top. The switchs S69/7 and S69/8 register an open and closed state and function properly but the locking mechanism is doing nothing.

(2) Found some type of sprocket or gear down in the bottom of the drivers side wheel well near the actuating arm. Have no idea where this goes or what it does.

Obviously something is not right and hoping someone can guide me in the right direction given my 2 new findings.



 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok, pretty sure I have found the culprit. The Hydraulic fluid was way below the recommended fill line so I removed the headliner and found hydraulic fluid saturated on the backing And dripping from the cylinder. Decided to fill the fluid and give it a try and when doing so this cylinder was spraying out the fluid. Looks like I will be ordering a rebuild kit.

any recommendations on the rebuild kits? Seen them on Fleabay and wondering if they come from anyone on the forums.

 

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Ok, pretty sure I have found the culprit. The Hydraulic fluid was way below the recommended fill line so I removed the headliner and found hydraulic fluid saturated on the backing And dripping from the cylinder. Decided to fill the fluid and give it a try and when doing so this cylinder was spraying out the fluid. Looks like I will be ordering a rebuild kit.

any recommendations on the rebuild kits? Seen them on Fleabay and wondering if they come from anyone on the forums.

We've had success with a couple of seal kits on eBay. Like $10-20 for seals.
 

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Ok, pretty sure I have found the culprit. The Hydraulic fluid was way below the recommended fill line so I removed the headliner and found hydraulic fluid saturated on the backing And dripping from the cylinder. Decided to fill the fluid and give it a try and when doing so this cylinder was spraying out the fluid. Looks like I will be ordering a rebuild kit.

any recommendations on the rebuild kits? Seen them on Fleabay and wondering if they come from anyone on the forums.


Looks like you got to the root of your issue.

Here is where I got mine:

97 04 Mercedes SLK 230 Hydraulic Cylinder Repair Kit Hardtop Convertible R170 | eBay

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Pretty easy to check, just use a multimeter and measure the continuity of the switch opened and closed. I used the posi-tap terminals on each wire and followed the ground signal in and out. I did the same for all the switches.

how can you tell if that privacy curtain microswitch is not working and how can you fix it? is that the luggage curtain located inside of the trunk?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
This was the condition of all 5 cylinders. Well not exactly..at least the 4 that I opened tonight. The trunk cylinders are a bioch and I only got the 1 open but pretty sure the last one is going to look like **** also.

 
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