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What fiber coverter is everyone using for the HK replacement? I got one with my px5 but I hsve a bigger fiber plug.


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@Guentha


What you currently have is the MOST 4 pin housing. What you need is the MOST 2 pin housing partnr A0015452030 and possibly the 2 pin plug itself, partnr A0025459040.
And some time and DIY capabilities to take the current one apart and manufacture the correct plug/housing.

See https://w220.ee/MOST
As said, forget the plug-n-play claims......>:D
 

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Thanks for the replay. turns out we can chalk it up to terrible/no instructions. with the adapter that's on my car has 2 fibers can be removed and slid into the provided adapter. however now I get crackling and popping from my amp. I can make it stop if I hold the fibers in just the right position. I have tried taping them into the adapter but its a no go. right now I am just dealing with it but will eventually just swap to sperate amps as I think the HK amp is setup supper Muddy sounding.

now for the next adventure. What is everybody using for canbus settings? right now everything works but my up and down arrow change track no matter what menu I am in. seemed fine at first but nothing is more annoying than changing the track 6 times while just checking what gear I am in or what my estimated remaining mileage is.v Plus my nave and audio menu don't work and I have seen a couple people here state that at least the audio menu did work.

I played around a little and found Mercedes 73 Smart not only breaks steering wheel controls but messes up my whole menu system on my dash. I get like 1 screen that says SD and my power seat won't move. swapped back to default and everything came back.
 

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Thanks for the replay. turns out we can chalk it up to terrible/no instructions. with the adapter that's on my car has 2 fibers can be removed and slid into the provided adapter. however now I get crackling and popping from my amp. I can make it stop if I hold the fibers in just the right position. I have tried taping them into the adapter but its a no go. right now I am just dealing with it but will eventually just swap to sperate amps as I think the HK amp is setup supper Muddy sounding.

now for the next adventure. What is everybody using for canbus settings? right now everything works but my up and down arrow change track no matter what menu I am in. seemed fine at first but nothing is more annoying than changing the track 6 times while just checking what gear I am in or what my estimated remaining mileage is.v Plus my nave and audio menu don't work and I have seen a couple people here state that at least the audio menu did work.

I played around a little and found Mercedes 73 Smart not only breaks steering wheel controls but messes up my whole menu system on my dash. I get like 1 screen that says SD and my power seat won't move. swapped back to default and everything came back.

I'm no expert in all this aftermarket stuff but isn't a "PX5" the designation for a SoC manufactured by Rockchip and used in numerous mobile devices running android?
So what exactly did you buy? Would help us a lot here. There are myriads of these Chines clones swarming around on the internet. All have their own little quirks.:grin:

Furthermore, I doubt if you can get the navi info of your android unit on the MFD. The Canbus adapter usually only receives CAN messages and translates this to some discrete signals the aftermarket unit understands. Info in the MFD is received through the interior CAN and I doubt the CANbus adapter outputs these CAN messages. Or does your new unit has a CANbus connector build in?
BTW sure you have HK? Had one in my previous and it sounded great. Check your datacard for option 810 Soundsystem.
 

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Curiosity question. I've been searching posts for a few days now and I see a lot of info about the H/K system and how hard it is to replace the head unit. I have the H/K system and want to upgrade the HU. Why is everyone going through the trouble when you can upgrade (replace) the whole system with a new and better functioning Nav/Blue Tooth etc unit and add an amp? It seems like it would be MUCH easier and even cheaper. What am I missing?
 

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Curiosity question. I've been searching posts for a few days now and I see a lot of info about the H/K system and how hard it is to replace the head unit. I have the H/K system and want to upgrade the HU. Why is everyone going through the trouble when you can upgrade (replace) the whole system with a new and better functioning Nav/Blue Tooth etc unit and add an amp? It seems like it would be MUCH easier and even cheaper. What am I missing?
You're missing nothing. But I don't know if throwing out the H/K amp and replacing it by another is cheaper than adding a MOST converter. But certainly easier. In that you're absolutely right.
Depending on the quality of the amp in the new HU it may not even be necessary. Just rewire the speakers.
 

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You're missing nothing. But I don't know if throwing out the H/K amp and replacing it by another is cheaper than adding a MOST converter. But certainly easier. In that you're absolutely right.
Depending on the quality of the amp in the new HU it may not even be necessary. Just rewire the speakers.
Thanks a lot Pete. That's what I figured. I'll look into the MOST converter first. I'm not that versed in the system yet. I just know that as soon as I drove mine I wanted a nicer, better optioned HU... I don't need it to win at a low rider show lol, but I do want it to sound good obviously.
 

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You're missing nothing. But I don't know if throwing out the H/K amp and replacing it by another is cheaper than adding a MOST converter. But certainly easier. In that you're absolutely right.
Depending on the quality of the amp in the new HU it may not even be necessary. Just rewire the speakers.

But by doing that you loose the steering wheel buttons for the HU and you will see some "strange things" in the instument cluster display. Right?
 

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But by doing that you loose the steering wheel buttons for the HU and you will see some "strange things" in the instument cluster display. Right?

If you replace the OEM setup with an aftermarket one you will lose (at least part of) the info in the MFD anyway. Info for the MFD is received by the instrument cluster through the interior CAN. Messages are posted by the OEM components that have a CAN connection. Almost every aftermarket HU does not has a CAN connection but needs a CAN adapter for steering wheel buttons to work. Only thing this adapter does is translate the CAN messages from the steering wheel to something the aftermarket HU understands. Afaik none of these adapters put CAN messages out. The H/K/amp/AGW plays no role in this. (Or at least hardly any role). You'll encounter the same problems if you retain the (H/K) amp/AGW.

As always, replace OEM by non-OEM and you gain some and you lose some. Whether that's acceptable depends on what you value most. Seamless integration or state of the art tech. Your choice.
 

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I ordered a Seicane HU today!

IN a few weeks I will receive my Seicane Android 9.0 HU. I also ordered a reverse cam, but I don't know wich cable is the + from the reverse light. Is it a specific color?
I have a 2004, model 200.
 

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IN a few weeks I will receive my Seicane Android 9.0 HU. I also ordered a reverse cam, but I don't know wich cable is the + from the reverse light. Is it a specific color?

I have a 2004, model 200.
You shouldn't need positive from the reverse light. That unit will read from the can bus and provide reverse came automaticly. It will even provide steering wheel geometry if you turn it on in the factory settings. You will need to modify the wiring harness a bit if you have the Harmon Carson setup but it's easy. Jist cut the bulky plastic end off and connect power, ground, and can bus and you should be running. Then hook up you speakers or amp and plug in your camera.

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You shouldn't need positive from the reverse light. That unit will read from the can bus and provide reverse came automaticly. It will even provide steering wheel geometry if you turn it on in the factory settings. You will need to modify the wiring harness a bit if you have the Harmon Carson setup but it's easy. Jist cut the bulky plastic end off and connect power, ground, and can bus and you should be running. Then hook up you speakers or amp and plug in your camera.

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Tanks, but I orderverwerving a wireless cam so I have to hoog iT up on the reverse light. I found the cables that go to the lights, but They are taped together and i don’t know which cable to use.
 

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Tanks, but I orderverwerving a wireless cam so I have to hoog iT up on the reverse light. I found the cables that go to the lights, but They are taped together and i don’t know which cable to use.
Thanks, I ordered a wireless cam. AutoCorrect makes a mess of my text😒
 

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I looked at wireless camera (admittadly not WIFI) and decided too much hassle, and not worth the expense. I figured the cheap chinese wireless cameras would be rubbish, so went dependable cable >:D



Only the head Unit needs to see reverse signal, not the camera. Camera can be wired permantly on. Head unit switches to reverse camera display when it sees reverse signal, which is generated on the CANBUS.


If you use wireless camera, you still need to get power up to the boot lid (Trunk!) (though there might be power on the boot lock wiring)


One other problem is the boot lid is not connected to chassis ground :surprise: I found this out after wondering why my camera would not work!


Had to splice into a number plate light ground


Getting cable to head unit is not too difficult, just a bit time consuming :laugh:
Only wiring needed was one cable from head unit to boot lid, and an earth at bood lid. My RCA cable had aditional power conductor so took power from head unit supply.
 

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Reversing light?
Though, I don't know if that creates a bulb error warning in canbus.

Yes, but that is not on the boot lid!


So you need to feed an aditional wire through hinges to the rear light, which is also not easy to access!


There may be an ignition 12V supply on the boot lid lock switch mechanism, which means no wiring down boot hinge if using a wireless system.


Would need wiring diagram checking.


If not, then no real gain in using wireless camera, as just as difficult wiring a feed from SAM or rear lights to boot lid, as feeding through to head unit!
 
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