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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Folks,
I just got my steering damper replaced! Was an easy fix for 5-10 minutes! I must say that the steering improved, since my old one... well I must say it was simply a connecting pipe rather than a "shock absorber" =)) I didn't even have to squeeze it. As soon as I turned it over after I took it off it just slided open =) I'll upload a video on youtube an post a link here.
Ok, here's how to do it:
Tools needed:
1) Rag
2) Gloves
3) 2 16mm sockets or 2 5/8' sockets or wrenches


Steering damper is right in front of the transmission:

Here's the passenger's side bolt:

To unscrew the driver's side you'll need to make a use of 2 wrenches. One for holding the upper nut and the other one for unscrewing the lower bolt:


Just take a new steering damper and screw the bolts back in:


See =) Easy job!
 

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Nice post - thanks.

Do you think your old damper was the original? How many miles on it?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Nice post - thanks.

Do you think your old damper was the original? How many miles on it?
Thanks Sokoloff!
Yes, my old damper was original, It said made iin Germany with the part number, etc. And it was soooo bad! Literally I didn't even have to squeeze it... I think it was there since factory... How long does these thing last? Or is it just a problem with our SLKs?!
Also can I please ask you to look at my other post?!
http://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-general-discussion/33862-drag-link-questions-does-affect-alignment.html
I'm afraid if my drag link is bad then I will damage the steering damper and then have to replace it again =(
 

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I don't know the mileage on your SLK, but if it's approaching 100K, then it is very reasonable that it's time to replace it. My car is the same year as yours, but I'm only at 26K miles, so I suspect I have a ways to go before mine needs done. It's also not unreasonable to think that your front end needs some attention too, both the joints and any rubber up there like mounts, etc.
 

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Registered 2006 SLK350 sold/now 2018 SL400
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Mine was completely shot at 100k. Replacing it really improved the tramlining I was experiencing.
 

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sLk 320 started leaking

I went to 32 point inspection, the mechanic showed me that the steering damper is leaking. It look like it is kind of dust and wet. anyways, time to change with Stabilus damper.

Are there any torque settings for these screws?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I went to 32 point inspection, the mechanic showed me that the steering damper is leaking. It look like it is kind of dust and wet. anyways, time to change with Stabilus damper.

Are there any torque settings for these screws?
Everything in MB has its torque specs. Can't tell you what these are for the steering damper. You may follow my advice. Usually I try to clean up a bolt and the area it attaches to, then take a sharpie (I use black or silver ones) and mark the position on the bolt and the surface so when you tighten it the lines are aligned =) Might put a scratch mark since the oils and fluids tend to remove the sharpie =)
Some people also use blue loctite on the bolts. I never do. It's up to you!
 

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Everything in MB has its torque specs. Can't tell you what these are for the steering damper. You may follow my advice. Usually I try to clean up a bolt and the area it attaches to, then take a sharpie (I use black or silver ones) and mark the position on the bolt and the surface so when you tighten it the lines are aligned =) Might put a scratch mark since the oils and fluids tend to remove the sharpie =)
Some people also use blue loctite on the bolts. I never do. It's up to you!
I have done marking on my oil filter cap so I don't have to use torque wrench. Thanks for the tip and I always put blue loctite on bolts.
 

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If you don't use a torque wrench, you are assuming that the bolts were torqued correctly the first time. Maybe they were - maybe they weren't. Also using any kind of anti-sieze or Loctite will slightly distort the torque value. All Mercedes torques are dry torques and there really is little need for applying anything to the bolts.
 

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If you don't use a torque wrench, you are assuming that the bolts were torqued correctly the first time. Maybe they were - maybe they weren't. Also using any kind of anti-sieze or Loctite will slightly distort the torque value. All Mercedes torques are dry torques and there really is little need for applying anything to the bolts.
Now I leaned something new here. I was told by mechanics to apply blue loctite on bolts when tightening but you are right, the torque value will change. Anyways I will use dry bolt with the torque spec I got from cross fire manual. Hopefully these are same for SLK320.

Steering Damper Bracket Nut and Bolt 40 N.m 29 Ft.Lbs 348 In.Lbs
Steering Damper to Drag Link Nut and Bolt 40 N.m 29 Ft.Lbs 348 In.Lbs
 

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I get the whole torque issue but I worked in a garage as a kid and have done a lot of my own work on various cars over the years including GM, Volvo and for the last 27 yr. MB cars.
The one question I ask myself have I ever had a well tightened bolt back off? I used to swap my winters for summers twice a year and never once used a torque wrench and never had a wheel come loose. I used to check a few weeks after I put them on and never found any movement so how important is it really?
I just had the fronts off the Slick and painted calipers. The wheels are well tightened and I won't be losing sleep over not torquing them.


If you don't use a torque wrench, you are assuming that the bolts were torqued correctly the first time. Maybe they were - maybe they weren't. Also using any kind of anti-sieze or Loctite will slightly distort the torque value. All Mercedes torques are dry torques and there really is little need for applying anything to the bolts.
 

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some bolts need specific torque settings as they are designed with stretch increasing the clamping force (head bolts for example)these bolts should always be renewed if they are slackened off
 
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