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Discussion Starter #1
Been battling with this issue for a couple of months now and got nowhere...

Problems started after I replaced the batteries in the key (I only have 1 key sadly). Although the car had been stood for 3 weeks at that point so may be coincidental.

Car will start fine and run for around 3 seconds then cut out and die. I can start it again a further 2 times and each time it dies after about 3 seconds. subsequent attempts will not attempt to turn the engine over at all. I can hear the fuel pump prime but get nothing from starter. If I remove the 40amp fuse from K40 or disconnect battery, I get a further 3 attempts before lockout.
Battery is pretty new and in good condition - fully recharged off vehicle twice now.
Interestingly i found that if that battery is flat (been a lot of fiddling and testing) then the starter clicks but not enough juice to start - as you would expect.. but as it never gets to actually run i am not subject to the 3 attempts only issue?

had key apart and checked the immobilizer chip is secure and doesn't look damaged. tried all the key reset procedures i can find. keys remote open doors fine....

had the K40 out and given a through work over - it looks to be the original item as dated 03 same as car, but is in good as new condition. fully tested and all relays actuating freely etc. Given the nature of this i really don't think it is K40 related.

I do have a cheap obd2 sender and i am getting no error codes at all from that. Not the best i know but i just cant afford to fork out on an Icarsoft right now when I'm not sure it will help.

so, anyway I am thinking immobilizer or some sort of safety shut down on ECU (although i would expect an error code if that was the case).

Anyone got any bright ideas on what to check next?
 

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Administrator 2009 SLK 55 AMG/Founding member 2006
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Super Moderator UK SLK 55 AMG 2007
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SLKs need a battery in top condition.
Start by checking the battery condition.

A new, fully charged battery can go flat in just 3 weeks of standing.
Even more likely on a 17 yr old car if still on the original alarm battery too.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
battery is fine, and as i said it has been fully recharged off the car - twice now... this is some kind of cut out that is being forced from somewhere/something..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm in Suffolk, just north of Ipswich, agree it would be great if there was someone close by with an SDS! just cant afford one myself right now :(
 

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Registered 2002 SLK320
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I am thinking immobilizer or some sort of safety shut down on ECU (although i would expect an error code if that was the case).
Hi,

ME2.8 (which is the type of Engine ECU fitted to V6 R170) does exactly as your OP describes when there is a problem with "Drive Authorisation" (= Immobilizer) !!

Cheap Scanners will not go near this fault, you are being led up the garden path with "No Fault Codes" ;)

I'm nowhere near certain that iCS would get near a fault like this ;) SDS is really the only Machine to nail this and many other faults ;)

Your Car may or may not report "Start Error" on the Cluster depending if that is "Version Coded" to do so or not, some are, some aren't. Can be re "Version Coded" with SDS so it does.

Car needs to go on SDS and check out what is happening in "Theft Relevant" (= Immo Related) Modules, which in this Case are the DAS / RF Module, Key and the Engine ECU ............ Something is not sending the correct signal, and my guess is it is your Key if the problem immediately surfaced after you replaced the Batteries .............

When you say "checked the immobilizer chip" can you post a photo of which chip you are referring to with an arrow or pen pointing to it please ?

I have seen many of these drop out and become lost during Battery replacement, then the non start issue ;)

HTH,
 

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Registered 2002 SLK320
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Well yep, that is indeed the Immo Chip, don't suppose it's worth a try the other way around if that's even possible ?
 

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Super Moderator UK SLK 55 AMG 2007
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Merc Independent specialist charge from £40-£100 for this stuff.
Dealer circa £170.
Just check they are using the proper device.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Merc Independent specialist charge from £40-£100 for this stuff.
Dealer circa £170.
Just check they are using the proper device.
Unfortunately the car is immobile so got to pay a call out charge as well... gets expensive pretty damn quick :(
 

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Registered 2002 SLK320
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gets expensive pretty damn quick
Hi Dave,

This is exactly why it is best to buy your own SDS if you want to save a bucket full of money over a few repairs ;)

Good thing about SDS is if you decide to move away from MB's in the future it will likely sell for as much or a bit more because an actual Key genned and working plug and play system commands a premium ;)

HTH,
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hi Dave,

This is exactly why it is best to buy your own SDS if you want to save a bucket full of money over a few repairs ;)

Good thing about SDS is if you decide to move away from MB's in the future it will likely sell for as much or a bit more because an actual Key genned and working plug and play system commands a premium ;)

HTH,
Been looking on ebay but tbh it's quite confusing what's available and understanding what I would actually need for my r170 :(.. never mind the cost....
 

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Registered 1997 SLK230 Kompressor
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Been looking on ebay but th it's quite confusing what's available and understanding what I would actually need for my r170 :(.. never mind the cost....
I've had a look on eBay. Not much from eu suppliers at a sensible price at the moment, but see the following:
MB STAR C3 DAS 03/2013 Xentry Diagnostic Mercedes Smart + DELL D630 Laptop
The above is pretty near identical to what I recently bought from a UK seller and might be worth a punt. It is anyway basically what you are looking for and I paid about £400 for mine.

PS. I note the seller, zar-fashion in Germany, has it listed at a fixed price as well as at auction. The disadvantage of buying from them is possibly that although they appear to have a few auto related parts on sale, and no fashion items, they are probably not in a position to help you if you have issues. Just a thought, and I might be wrong.
 

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Registered 1998 SLK230
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33 Posts
Been battling with this issue for a couple of months now and got nowhere...

Problems started after I replaced the batteries in the key (I only have 1 key sadly). Although the car had been stood for 3 weeks at that point so may be coincidental.

Car will start fine and run for around 3 seconds then cut out and die. I can start it again a further 2 times and each time it dies after about 3 seconds. subsequent attempts will not attempt to turn the engine over at all. I can hear the fuel pump prime but get nothing from starter. If I remove the 40amp fuse from K40 or disconnect battery, I get a further 3 attempts before lockout.
Battery is pretty new and in good condition - fully recharged off vehicle twice now.
Interestingly i found that if that battery is flat (been a lot of fiddling and testing) then the starter clicks but not enough juice to start - as you would expect.. but as it never gets to actually run i am not subject to the 3 attempts only issue?

had key apart and checked the immobilizer chip is secure and doesn't look damaged. tried all the key reset procedures i can find. keys remote open doors fine....

had the K40 out and given a through work over - it looks to be the original item as dated 03 same as car, but is in good as new condition. fully tested and all relays actuating freely etc. Given the nature of this i really don't think it is K40 related.

I do have a cheap obd2 sender and i am getting no error codes at all from that. Not the best i know but i just cant afford to fork out on an Icarsoft right now when I'm not sure it will help.

so, anyway I am thinking immobilizer or some sort of safety shut down on ECU (although i would expect an error code if that was the case).

Anyone got any bright ideas on what to check next?
Hi, yeah been looking at your post now have you considered the ignition switch as I have just replaced mine as was going through a similar situation now I can honestly tell you that things that weren't working are now working strangely I was going through the motions of this type of issue and when I was trying to start the car there was no power to the starter motor hich had me going coz the thought of replacing that as well now I did this simple check pass a multi meter over the starter and was showing 12v trace back upto the ignition and wallar the bloody switch was weak and felt kinda nothing and here's how I found out after breaking down on an appointment the car stalled yeah I know an auto stalling after several attempts to start it nope so brought a coffee large and sat down and gave it some braincells time to figure out this problem and it was by chance it bloody well came too me in a dream state mind I had this issue many years ago on a motorcycle Zzr1100 kaswasaki it did the same thing ignition switch so after coffee I knew it would start as the switch has had time to cool down boom car started and the rest is history and here's the problem with these cars I had an 89 Ford escort convertible it never had lateral acceleration sensor or esp or anything to impede the sports ride so I think mercedes have gone ott with the safety issues taki g the fun out it oh well thats my take on things if it helps you good luck remember a multi meter and some reverse tracking always better to start from the engine to the dash that's my methodology... Tony slk98
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Spent some more time on this today. Still haven't found someone local with the correct diagnostic kit to come out and take a look. So started looking for an obvious issues with main components.
Have had the immobiliser out and inspected that and also the pickup ring around the keyhole. Had ECU out and looked as far as I can without trying to unglue it from the base plate. Had another go at the k40 and proved all 5 relays are connecting properly.
Obviously I dont have proper diagnostics so my checks are limited to inspecting the boards and looking for evidence of issues and a little bit of continuity testing to make sure the tracks all seem to connect properly. For k40 I was able to work out the circuit and apply a voltage to see the relays fire properly.

So I guess that's a wasted weekend :( going to put it all back together and carry on looking for someone with the right diagnostics :(
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Spent some more time on this today. Still haven't found someone local with the correct diagnostic kit to come out and take a look. So started looking for an obvious issues with main components.
Have had the immobiliser out and inspected that and also the pickup ring around the keyhole. Had ECU out and looked as far as I can without trying to unglue it from the base plate. Had another go at the k40 and proved all 5 relays are connecting properly.
Obviously I dont have proper diagnostics so my checks are limited to inspecting the boards and looking for evidence of issues and a little bit of continuity testing to make sure the tracks all seem to connect properly. For k40 I was able to work out the circuit and apply a voltage to see the relays fire properly.

So I guess that's a wasted weekend :( going to put it all back together and carry on looking for someone with the right diagnostics :(
Post re-assembly I have a 'possibly' new issue! still not starting but not giving me '3 tries' anymore either... and the milometer is flashing 'start error'.. it's possible it was flashing that before and i just didn't notice.. :(
 

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Registered 1998 SLK230
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I argree with you on that score, I know this may sound silly but have you changed the battery of the remote fob, this can lead to starting problems but I would carefully check the k40 board and the relays closely for any blackness around the points if ya see any signs of burning on any of the relays it's something a DIY can do but ya must be as thorough as possible what seems to be OK may not be its worth taking a closer look before digging into ya pocket and shelling out £150
The slk will test anyone's endurance on having a sorted motor mines been doing a similar issue so have I Invested in a OBD meter and the multiplug as some of the ports are round like on mine its next to the heatsheild and the battery lite round thingy on top that's my one so it will give me more scope to fix maybe more issues if any.... 😎Slk98
 

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Registered 1998 SLK230
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Ps sorry had only thought of this myself when power goes through the k40 units the board will get hot to a point where it melts the solder so it seems to be something else it was the solder that was failing German engineering in electronics wasn't as good as some other major companies was all I was hearing so yeah it's worth a real close look at the board and it's only a twenty minute job good old mercedes benz slk98😎
 
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