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Registered 2002 SLK200
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10 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks, this a continuation of an old issue. due to work commitments I have not able to progress this until now.
Car wont start , not cranking , not drawing current not a battery issue. when you turn the ignition on fuel pump starts, turn the key it doesn't crank. The gear selection display is a solid dark block so it is not displaying what gear its in. The gear stick interlock is also on and has to be manually disengaged. Im thinking this is kind of pointing to a selector module issue.
The k40 board looks new however I have gone over a couple of joints.
Its going to be difficult to get it stands so could someone tell me what colour the starter solenoid wire is . I want to make sure the starter is engaging and turning so I can eliminate it as a secondary issue.

I've read elsewhere its a thick purple wire however there isn't a thick purple wire coming from any of the k40 connectors
There is a thick purple connector on a two pin plug on the inside front of the plastic box containing the modules.

If anyone knows the solenoid wire colour and what board or connector it comes off i'd be very grateful.

Cheers
Steve (Mold UK)
 

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Registered 2002 SLK200
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10 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Update I managed to find a wiring diagram and it is indeed the purple wire. The engine will start energising the solenoid . Still doesn't show what gear its in but it will move forward and backwards. I assume if I try to drive it, it will be in limp mode. Its not been running for a year so at least I'm getting somewhere. ( and i'm able to get it out of the drive if I decide to scrap it !!!!! )
 

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Premium Member 2002 R170 SLK V8 5.0
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3,169 Posts
Hi,

Yes, Starter is Purple as you say, it is not powered from the K40 but from the Engine ECU which signals the Pulse Module, which is in the opposite equipment Box to the K40 and Engine ECU, you need to remove the top part of that box, (not the Lid the next piece under the Lid), to see Pulse Module ;)

Obviously, as I'm sure you have guessed it is nothing to do with the Theft Relevant System, (Immobiliser).

I don't have the Diagram for early 4 Cylinder cars but below is the V6 one which I believe is a very similar system ....



I have had this fault on Automatics and it could well be Shifter, a Micro Switch inside the Gearbox on Conductor Plate, or the oil wicking into TCU Problem, especially as you have no Gear Display ...............

SDS would really be the daddy here as it will see all the bits of Data in all the systems and get you straight to the faulty part, none of the other Diagnostic stuff will do that ;)

HTH,
 

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Registered 2002 SLK200
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10 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Dave , Thanks very much for the diagram, took it for a run up the road stuck in 2nd gear not surprisingly. No speedo or rev counter . i'm pretty sure a wheel speed sensor wouldn't effect the gear display ( might inhibit starter motor though). I might check the TCU and all the wheel sensors. If the SDS will pinpoint the problem it might be worth me putting it on a trailer and dragging it to a merc garage.
Thanks for the reply

Steve
 

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Premium Member 2002 R170 SLK V8 5.0
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3,169 Posts
Wheel speed Sensor will not inhibit start or gear Display, TCU or Shifter can and does with certain faults ;)

Make certain before you take the car to any Garage that you will get a print out from SDS of Codes plus any tests they may do, if they say it won't print move on to the next garage. Also, you want an initial test print out, clear everything, road test then a second read and print out to see what has come back. That is what you are paying for, expect to pay 1 to 2 hrs time, what you don't want is a cheap grease monkey reads codes and gives his opinion without any print out, they are very often wrong.

Try and find a good indie that comes well recommended. Avoid main dealers unless very well recommended.

If you then post up the SDS print out I can likely tell you what is wrong.
 

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Super Moderator UK 2002 SLK320 Blue
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3,192 Posts
If it is oil wicking up into the TCU, you can see that for yourself by pulling down the carpet in the passenger footwell, taking out the white polystyrene piece, undoing the three nuts around the metal plate and pulling it towards you from the top. The TCU is mounted on this plate. As you can see from the photo here, this was my footplate when I looked at mine. You can see the oil on the plate here.

581770

Let us know if you find any as that will help you with your diagnosis.
 
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Premium Member 2002 R170 SLK V8 5.0
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3,169 Posts
/\ /\ /\ Exactly this :)

As I said earlier, the oil wicking issue is a common cause of this problem ;)
 
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Registered 2002 SLK200
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10 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Dave , checked the TCU today, clean as a whistle, all the connectors look ok, I also took the ecu out cleaned the connectors both on the loom and the module. This fault with the gear display just showing a solid block was originally intermittent. sometimes it would work for a short time. Any fuses had been check several times but today I thought id check again. I took all the fuses out of the main box cleaned them and put them back. This is when I noticed Fuse 7 was blown. (5a soft top control indicator, electronic transmission control.) I replaced it and it blew again as soon as the ignition was on. Though I was getting somewhere is so disconnected the two TCU plugs put another fuse in and it still blew. That's were I'm up to. I've ran out of 5amp fuses now so will get some more tomorrow. Any help in disconnecting items to isolate the culprit would be very welcome.

Cheers


Steve
 

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Super Moderator UK 2002 SLK320 Blue
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3,192 Posts
you need to know what fuse 7 does. I'll see what I can find early tomorrow.
 

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Super Moderator UK 2002 SLK320 Blue
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3,192 Posts
According to my info, I'm looking at Fusebox F1 and fuse 7 feeds two devices:

Y66/1 - Reversing and parking lock locking solenoid
S84 - Vario roof switch

581826
 
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Premium Member 2002 R170 SLK V8 5.0
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3,169 Posts
@savcom beat me to it, unplug the VR Switch see if the Fuse still blows, if it does then it is a Shifter problem ;)

Thankfully on R170 it is not part of the Immobiliser as it is on some other MB Cars, so you can just get a good used one and fit it ;)
 

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Premium Member 2002 R170 SLK V8 5.0
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3,169 Posts
:ROFLMAO: (y)
 
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Registered 2002 SLK200
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10 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Evening Gents,
I disconnected the VR switch in the centre console and the fuse still blew with the ignition on ( think you both knew that would be the case ;)) Disconnecting N10-3 module fuse doesn't blew ,but then you are removing all loading. I took the cover of the N10-3 , it was fine no ingress of anything and no sign of any component stressing.
At Ieast I know there isn't a wire shorting between the module and fuse box. I will disconnect the gear shifter module tomorrow and hopefully the fuse wont blow. If it doesn't i'll dismantle it and inspect the board.
fingers crossed

Again, thanks for your help.

Steve
 

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Registered 2002 SLK200
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10 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Gents,
Whilst perusing the internet in work this morning I came across an issue that somebody had on an W210 E240 on the MB forum. I must have read loads of post hundreds of times but its the first time i've come across this one.

His car would go in gear ( solid block on display like mine ) he eventually tracked it down to the ecu cooling fan.

some of the text pasted here.

P.S. Reading on some other MB forums it seems that there might be a small fan/blower underneath ECU box on the side which fails and gives similar symptoms possibly part no 2105450595.Anybody heard of this?

wow...following tips from US mb forums , I disconnected the wire for the fan(clips in on the corner by big 40 A fuse) ,replaced the fuse that burnt out again,and now everything works,car cranks,starts,gearlever,moves,ABS ESR lights are out...I am going now to test drive for a few miles...

15 miles and 10 restarts later,everything is ok,shows P or gears on display,starts,shifts,drives,no abs/esp/asr lights or warnings or malfunction messages..In hindsight,I probably did not to change the whole fuse box(FUSE RELAY BOX A0005400072),just disconnect the fan and change blown 10A fuse.All I have to figure out now is how to replace or repair that fan/blower underneath ECU box..

Link to original post here



Anyway my ECU fan looked good free spinning, I disconnected it and replaced Fuse 7. Turned ignition on fuse didn't blow. !!!!!!! Connected it back up fuse still didn't bloody blow. fan doesn't run when its connected but fuse is still intact and roof switch light on.
It is still not showing the gear in display so I am no further forward.. When I hit the roof switch the front windows come down then I can hear the front roof switches click then it stops . Its been sitting outside the house for a year so i'm hoping its just stiff. I'd like the roof working so I know the N10-3 isn't duff and contributing to the original fault.

I'm still going to remove the gear selector at the weekend to examine it for damage.
 
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