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Discussion Starter #1
Hi and happy new year to everyone.

I am totaly new here, i live in the Med. so please forgive if you see my syntaxis lacks cohesion or my typing is grammaticaly incorrect.

Well i have the instict this place can realy help. This is why i joined after carefully reading the answers mainly to the posts of those of you in trouble.

My case? A 2002 R170 Ten days now i was driving on slipery terrain... my ESP yellow triangle light was going on and off. Few moments later it disapeared and the ESP warning light showed for first time since i bought the car. Even Mercedes could not reset it.
It comes on every single time i start the engine. Since then i have lost the car' s behavour which used to swing the rear part when accilerating on curves.

I have fit new tyres recently, same specs with those when purchased new.
Plus i replaced the battery with one of higher capacity but same amp/hour rating to that fitted by factory. A friend sent me to a store where usualy sell batteries for watercrafts. I was tempted by the 25percet higher yield as stated on the sticker but this was a year before.

The top also refuses to open 3 out of 5 times...I have read posts of you with similar or close to mine trouble. Hope someone can help.

Regards to all of you !

CNC44
 

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Welcome to the forum.

Sorry I can't help you on either issue but someone here should be able to help you. There are a lot of knowledgeable members here.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
1234

Thanks WhyBe for taking the time to read my long post here. And this is what it counts most not the solution to the problem itself.

Besides i ain't gonna touch anything in the car unless i have a clear picture of what is going on.
I am about to check all wheel sensors first ro see if they keep signaling to the cars controler.
What do you think of this.
I've never touched an SLK this way but as i know from other cars two types of sensors exist. Magnetic proximity detectors which are realy very long life and trouble free devices and infrared systems.
But at the moment have no idea which one SLK uses.
I am going to find out shortly.

I dont think is time yet for Mercedes to use more complex systems like shaft encoders to sense the wheels.

Most likely they've employed cheaper sensors(magnetic) Those colect steel and iron chips as well. Need cleaning once in a while.

See if anyone can help me with this. I am not touching anything yet.


Cheers....CNC44
 

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I can't supply a full answer, but I do know that on later model SLKs a failure of the ESP system will also cause the cruise control to fail to function. So my first check on the ESP problem would be to try the cruise control and see if it works. By my experience, if it does not, you problem is an ESP failure, probably due to a bad sensor.

The problems with the roof seem almost like a separate problem. There are sensors that are located where the protective "shade" is hooked in the trunk when pulled out, and there are sensors in the front lip of the top where it joins the top of the windshield frame. If any of these sensors are stuck or malfunctioning, the top won't work. I fixed an R 170 top problem once by squirting some WD 40 at the sensor on the right side of where the trunk shade hooks.
 
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It could be a brake pedal sensor gone wrong, that happens all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanx guys !
I think it'd be a good idea to take seriously both answers here!
And hey DansSLK ! You are not talking about those that sence the pads' thickness whenever they get close to their wear limit, are you? Cause those i am replacing myself everytime i put the new pads on. And their mission looks pretty simple to me. They are tiny carbon inserts about 3mm in dia and whenever padwear allows them to tuch and rub on the brake disk surface, that same moment they supply the ground terminal to the brake warning light on the istrument cluster. If their use relates to some additional issue that i disregard could you please be more specific?

Thank you ..regards to all !
 
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No i'm talking about the brake pedal sensor that tells the ESP when the brakes are applied
 

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Discussion Starter #9
...and do you have any idea where are these located?
It sounds like a limit switch is all what is needed to do this job.
 

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I think DanSLK and I both replied approximately the same thing about the ESP being out -- if that's what it is. If your ESP is out, the cause is most likely one of the ESP sensors. I believe our cars have them in connection with the brakes, steering, etc.

I had a bad ESP steering sensor, and the ESP light came on in my R 171. Fortunately, it was under warranty. Another thing that happened at the same time was that my cruise control would not function. ESP and cruise control are tied together on the R 171. I presume the same is true on the R 170s. If so, you can check to see if your ESP is out or not by trying the cruise control. If it is out too, your ESP is out -- and the cause is most certainly a sensor.

DanSLK is the professional tech here -- or one of them -- and I am not. I'm just relating my experience, which is what Dan is telling us. No conflict here!:)
 
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...and do you have any idea where are these located?
It sounds like a limit switch is all what is needed to do this job.
It's a couple of switches in a single box, one switch to signal the ESP and another to feed the brake lights.

It's located above above the brake pedal, it's very easy to replace and also very cheap to buy from MB.

Dole's right by the way, if your ESP has failed the cruise control should also be failed.
 

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Ye, and I sensed some questioning in the OP as to whether the ESP had failed, or if something else were wrong. I suggested a simple test to see if ESP has failed, and that was (and is) to check the operation of the cruise control. If it does not work, it's pretty certain that ESP has failed and, in turn, it's pretty certain that a sensor has failed.

Intermittent failure of the top to open is most likely (to my experience) failure of the switch on the right side of the trunk (boot) protector shade (that is supposed to activate when the shade is pulled out). This sensor switch tells the top mechanism that the shade is pulled out, which is necessary to put the top down. If this sensor switch is dirty or faulty, it will send a message that the shade is not pulled out, and won't let the top open. This switch is located in the rail into which the right side of the shade bar hooks when the shade is pulled. I fixed one by spraying WD 40 into it. But sometimes they need replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
HeyHeyHey !
You guys make me feel like a doctor who is about to perform a crucial transplantation.
If i manage to fix the ESP DIY it will be no excuse for not sending at least a few bucks to the administrators of this forum.
Thank you both for the valuable info. And DansSLK, do you know those switches whether they are normaly open or normaly closed?

best regards...CNC44
 

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I'm not soliciting donations to this forum by trying to help diagnose problems -- though such donations are helpful and appreciated. I'm sure Dan isn't either. And I find that working on a Mercedes is a bit like performing surgery. Do the wrong thing, and you can do more damage than you had before. Listen to Dan for "how to do it" advise. He's a top flight pro.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
...no offence Dolebludger.

What i am saying here, it only shows my personal way of apreciation to the founders of this community.
Most members must feel the same way i believe.

I just don't want to hide the fact of how we all benefit from a well managed source of information here.

kind regards...cnc44
 
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