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Dear JaysonM, thank you for detailed explanation.
But i cant pull out piston! I pull it with all force - it stop and its all.
I unscrew bronze colore screw - counter clockwise -without success.
As i understand white plastic top cant piston go out? I remove c-ring before...
When you say piston, do you mean the plastic reservoir/housing where all the fluid is kept? If so, then it's quite tricky to remove. Take a flat-head screwdriver. You can even try to wrap it in a cloth (so you don't damage the plastic) and just go bit by bit around the reservoir. The rubber seal makes the reservoir seat pretty tight so the liquid doesn't leak. Also, be careful not to damage that seal!
The bronze screw on a side doesn't unscrew all the way! It's a pressure release screw. Just make a couple turns counter-clockwise until it stops and that's it. It's not removed from the hydraulic pump!
 

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How to pull out piston from locking cylinder?

Sorry i am again, amd I am laerning how to use forum.
I will update my question ans will be very gratefull if someone answer.
When pulling out piston, can I damage a litle white bushing???
Because I cant pull out piston at all.
Thanks everybody!!!
 

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You answer me, but only send reply i see it.

Sorry i really navigate with problem.
Thank you I tell only about locking cylinder.
When I mentioned pump i only tell that i unscrew till stop the bronze screw. And I remove C-ring from cylinder too...

the problem is how to remove metal piston rod from lock cylinder?
i wery want to receive this picture like this but I cant pull out road.
And I dont want to damage a lot a white brushing.
Thank you agan!!!
 

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Sorry i really navigate with problem.
Thank you I tell only about locking cylinder.
When I mentioned pump i only tell that i unscrew till stop the bronze screw. And I remove C-ring from cylinder too...

the problem is how to remove metal piston rod from lock cylinder?
i wery want to receive this picture like this but I cant pull out road.
And I dont want to damage a lot a white brushing.
Thank you agan!!!
So I assume you released the pressure from the system by turning the bronze screw on a side of the pump counter-clockwise, right? You removed the C-Ring from the cylinder. Did you drill a hole to do that? If C-ring is removed and the pressure is released then the piston rod should easily go back and forward. Simply pull it and it will pop out! Was really easy when I did mine.
 

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So I assume you released the pressure from the system by turning the bronze screw on a side of the pump counter-clockwise, right? - Yes
You removed the C-Ring from the cylinder. - Yes Did you drill a hole to do that? - Yes, i drill hole, but why you ask about hole? Ifr i understand this hole is only for removing C-ring? Am i right? If C-ring is removed and the pressure is released then the piston rod should easily go back and forward. Simply pull it and it will pop out! Was really easy when I did mine. Yes i do everything. --- But it is steal working - (under pressure i think). I pull it with all my force, then understand that something wrong and start spam here:)
16 Post, 17 - with this:)
 

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I slowly going --- understand!!! Or mad?
May be i need BIGGER hole! when i start pull white bushing totally cover this hole?
Am i right?
 

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I slowly going --- understand!!! Or mad?
May be i need BIGGER hole! when i start pull white bushing totally cover this hole?
Am i right?
Check your inbox. I PM'ed you. You don't need a bigger hole! Just pull the rod out all the way. It all comes out in one piece =)
 

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SLK,

I see you have the R170 SLK230 model!!!!!

I have the R171 model, which i recently completed the task quite easily.

First you need to buy the repair Kit off ebay from a guy called Martin Ewer, Shockwave Technologies.

Heres the link to the kit for your vehicle Mercedes SLK 230 320 Hydraulic Cylinder Repair Kit for Hardtop Convertible R170 | eBay

This kit is to rebuild all your cylinders that raise and lower and lock the roof.

The kit comes with very detailed instructions on how to do it.

Hope it helps
 

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I was really shocked at how easy this was to do. There is so much info on the internet that it didn't take long to research the project, find the nitrile rings and complete the rebuild. I think the main component of this kind of project is to prepare and research. I consider myself pretty mechanical and don't really shy away from this sort of thing. Tearing out the headliner and rebuilding the cylinders is a pretty interesting job though.

The locking cylinder had leaked so much, the liner in the roof was buckling. A new liner was about $300, even ordering it online. I wasn't really happy with the old headliner anyway. I thought it kind of looked cheap. Because I had the headliner out anyway, I just went ahead and ripped the old vinyl off, picked up some padded headliner material at a fabric store and installed it myself. I spent $15 on the material, $7 for the adhesive and $3 for the primer (I'm kinda anal about that). At any rate, it was an easy process and didn't take that long. The curing of the primer took the most time. In retrospect, I should have started the headliner as soon as I removed it so I could have had it back in when the cylinders were finished.

I had the cylinders out, rebuilt and reinstalled in about 6 hours. I also repaired the quarter window on the driver's side. It had become unattached and wouldn't go up and down completely. My dealership wanted to just "replace" the entire system costing over $3000. My entire project, fluid, new nitrile rings, headliner material, primer and adhesive totaled less than $80. Pretty cool deal. I got an excellent deal on the car BECAUSE the roof didn't work and the seller called the dealership for a price.

This site has been an AWESOME source of info and links to info. Thanks for everything guys!!!
 

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How many of your cylinders did you do? If more than just the locking cylinder, how did the others compare to it? I've done a few of the locking cylinders, but none of the others.

Nice work BTW!
 
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Cylinder rebuild

Well I developed a leak on my 01 320, and it appears it is coming from the drivers side top actuator. I obtained the rebuild kit form Shockwave and am about ready to start the rebuild on at least the top actuators and then the top locking. Going to save the trunk for last and probably start those in the Springtime as it appears as though from the information gleaned on the posts in this forum and Shockwave's manual they are the most difficult.
Again I have perused the posts and have not seen anything real recent on the procedure. JaysonM posts with the pics were awesome. I did read that sokoloff and others were going to do a tech get together on the hydraulic actuator rebuild but did not see any further posts indicating this took place. Sokoloff, if you read this post did this happen? If so, is there any additional information or thoughts on the procedure that have not been posted?
Thanks in advance to all that have contributed information on the rebuilding process.
 

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sokoloff and others were going to do a tech get together on the hydraulic actuator rebuild but did not see any further posts indicating this took place. Sokoloff, if you read this post did this happen? If so, is there any additional information or thoughts on the procedure that have not been posted? [/COLOR][/URL]
Thanks in advance to all that have contributed information on the rebuilding process.
We did have our tech session. Posted a few photos of the session here, but none that will help you with the actual rebuild.

http://www.slkworld.com/u-s-southeast-region/34723-tech-session-roof-cylinder-rebuilding.html

I have done or helped do about seven rebuilds. All of them have been the front top locking cylinder, although I believe the driver side actuator is similarly done. None of the rebuilds have leaked again as far as I know. I used a lot of the info in this thread to help get me through the job. It's not a bad job at all.

Len
 

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We did have our tech session. Posted a few photos of the session here, but none that will help you with the actual rebuild.

http://www.slkworld.com/u-s-southeast-region/34723-tech-session-roof-cylinder-rebuilding.html

I have done or helped do about seven rebuilds. All of them have been the front top locking cylinder, although I believe the driver side actuator is similarly done. None of the rebuilds have leaked again as far as I know. I used a lot of the info in this thread to help get me through the job. It's not a bad job at all.

Len
Len,
Thanks so much for the quick response, and after I posted I went out to the garage to start the process. I had my wife cycle the roof to make sure where I was seeing the leaking fluid. And to my dismay the fluid is leaking from behind the driver side rear wheel well, and upon looking at the top cylinders they looked good. It appears as though I was one of the lucky ones and the cylinder in questions is the trunk lid actuator which usually is the last to go from what I understand. So with that being said, I am not starting the job today and will be doing a bit more research on removal of those two actuating cylinders since I will have to basically gut the trunk of all the panels to get to them.

David
 

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Len,
Thanks so much for the quick response, and after I posted I went out to the garage to start the process. I had my wife cycle the roof to make sure where I was seeing the leaking fluid. And to my dismay the fluid is leaking from behind the driver side rear wheel well, and upon looking at the top cylinders they looked good. It appears as though I was one of the lucky ones and the cylinder in questions is the trunk lid actuator which usually is the last to go from what I understand. So with that being said, I am not starting the job today and will be doing a bit more research on removal of those two actuating cylinders since I will have to basically gut the trunk of all the panels to get to them.

David
Sorry to hear that David. Share your tips and successes with us as you proceed.
 
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Len,
Thanks so much for the quick response, and after I posted I went out to the garage to start the process. I had my wife cycle the roof to make sure where I was seeing the leaking fluid. And to my dismay the fluid is leaking from behind the driver side rear wheel well, and upon looking at the top cylinders they looked good. It appears as though I was one of the lucky ones and the cylinder in questions is the trunk lid actuator which usually is the last to go from what I understand. So with that being said, I am not starting the job today and will be doing a bit more research on removal of those two actuating cylinders since I will have to basically gut the trunk of all the panels to get to them.

David
David,

We purchased our SLK in November of 2013. The prior owner indicated the roof lock had been serviced and the roof worked when we got it. Within 10 days, the trunk cylinder on the driver side went out. It was pretty easy to remove. Take out the retractable cover, then remove the rest of the trunk lining/panels. There are clips that hold the top and bottom of the cylinder in place, and the hydraulic lines clip in place over to the pump. The lines are numbered, as are the ports in the pump. Be sure when reinstalling the lines to get them in the right places. Just take your time. It's really not difficult. Good luck

Tim
 

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David,

We purchased our SLK in November of 2013. The prior owner indicated the roof lock had been serviced and the roof worked when we got it. Within 10 days, the trunk cylinder on the driver side went out. It was pretty easy to remove. Take out the retractable cover, then remove the rest of the trunk lining. There are clips that hold the top and bottom of the cylinder on place, and the hydraulic lines clip in place over to the pump. The lines are numbered, as are the ports in the pump. Be sure when reinstalling the lines to get them in the right places. Just take your time. It's really not difficult. Good luck

Tim
Tim,
Thank you for the the information, and again it's members such as yourself providing information, tips which helps us all to maintain our vehicles without having to spend the big bucks at the dealerships.
Member's are great in putting tips/tricks and instructions on DIY repairs. I ran across some great info and pics in removing the trunk panels which eased my concerns in starting the job.
My plans are starting it next weekend as during the week, Moma has me doing some entries on her honey-do list which are much more important (at least according to her). I will document my steps that I am going to follow and provide the links and all which are available through "search" of this fine site. If I run into anything that is not readily addressed by other member's in this repair I will be sure to note it in BOLD!

Thanks again to you and Len (sokoloff) for your posts to my questions.

David
 

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Tim,
Thank you for the the information, and again it's members such as yourself providing information, tips which helps us all to maintain our vehicles without having to spend the big bucks at the dealerships.
Member's are great in putting tips/tricks and instructions on DIY repairs. I ran across some great info and pics in removing the trunk panels which eased my concerns in starting the job.
My plans are starting it next weekend as during the week, Moma has me doing some entries on her honey-do list which are much more important (at least according to her). I will document my steps that I am going to follow and provide the links and all which are available through "search" of this fine site. If I run into anything that is not readily addressed by other member's in this repair I will be sure to note it in BOLD!

Thanks again to you and Len (sokoloff) for your posts to my questions.

David
David,

You are welcome. And I agree that the info that Len supplied was terrific. It is rewarding, both spiritually and financially, to be able to handle repairs like this on your own. Then to assist others who also have the love for the vehicles takes it another step. Good luck, keep us up in how this goes, and do let us know if you run into trouble.

Tim
 

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hi my friend!


Very useful information and photos. i have the same problem and i want to ask you from where i can supplied this rubber seal ring that you replase???

Thank you!!
 
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