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2012 SLK350, the roof panel was pulling away from the support bar and created about a 1/4 inch gap between the top of the windshield frame and the roof panel. Did not leak, but created tremendous wind noise.

- Took it to the dealer and was told solution was replacement of the roof panel for $5,000
- Took it to a body shop and they would not touch the roof, recommended the dealer

SOLUTION: There' s a support bar that the roof panel attaches to and it is glued from the factory. Appears it is only attached on the edges, thus the lack of mechanical integrity. This can be repaired with 3M Panel Bond or PlioGrip Panel 60, available from Amazon for about $70 with applicator. Do not use Epoxy or Gorilla glue as they do not have the resiliency to hold under stress. (I tried this first!) . You will also need a clamp with at least 9" deep jaws. Purchased this at Harbor Freight for $9. This clamp works like a Vise Grip and was easy to adjust.
1. Remove the headliner (Just snaps out and has a rubber retaining strip on each side)
2. Find the 3" bar that runs across the front of the roof. The roof release mechanisms are attached to it on each side. The Bar has a "honeycomb" design.
3. Put a drop cloth on your seats and dash in case of any spills.
4. Adjust your clamp so it pushes the roof back into place. Be SURE to not put pressure on the roof release mechanism by positioning the clamp so it goes into one of the honeycombs. You will have to fabricate a method of pushing the roof down as it is curved and a flat surface will not apply equal pressure. I put a pad on the roof then used a piece of wood with various size wedges across the surface area. This pushed the roof down equally across the area. ALSO, do not put so much pressure that you bend the roof.
5. Release the pressure on the clamp.
6. There's about a 1/4" to 1/2" gap between the roof panel and bar. Apply the bonding material in this gap as deep as possible. BE SURE TO NOT GET THIS ON THE ROOF RELEASE MECHANISMS. Also do not put so much that is leaks out the front. I think down the middel of the abr is fine.
7. Re-apply pressure with the clamp and let setup for recommended curing time

I let mine setup overnight. So far has worked perfectly. Cost me about $80.

I hope this works for you!
 

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2012 SLK350, the roof panel was pulling away from the support bar and created about a 1/4 inch gap between the top of the windshield frame and the roof panel. Did not leak, but created tremendous wind noise.

- Took it to the dealer and was told solution was replacement of the roof panel for $5,000
- Took it to a body shop and they would not touch the roof, recommended the dealer

SOLUTION: There' s a support bar that the roof panel attaches to and it is glued from the factory. Appears it is only attached on the edges, thus the lack of mechanical integrity. This can be repaired with 3M Panel Bond or PlioGrip Panel 60, available from Amazon for about $70 with applicator. Do not use Epoxy or Gorilla glue as they do not have the resiliency to hold under stress. (I tried this first!) . You will also need a clamp with at least 9" deep jaws. Purchased this at Harbor Freight for $9. This clamp works like a Vise Grip and was easy to adjust.
1. Remove the headliner (Just snaps out and has a rubber retaining strip on each side)
2. Find the 3" bar that runs across the front of the roof. The roof release mechanisms are attached to it on each side. The Bar has a "honeycomb" design.
3. Put a drop cloth on your seats and dash in case of any spills.
4. Adjust your clamp so it pushes the roof back into place. Be SURE to not put pressure on the roof release mechanism by positioning the clamp so it goes into one of the honeycombs. You will have to fabricate a method of pushing the roof down as it is curved and a flat surface will not apply equal pressure. I put a pad on the roof then used a piece of wood with various size wedges across the surface area. This pushed the roof down equally across the area. ALSO, do not put so much pressure that you bend the roof.
5. Release the pressure on the clamp.
6. There's about a 1/4" to 1/2" gap between the roof panel and bar. Apply the bonding material in this gap as deep as possible. BE SURE TO NOT GET THIS ON THE ROOF RELEASE MECHANISMS. Also do not put so much that is leaks out the front. I think down the middel of the abr is fine.
7. Re-apply pressure with the clamp and let setup for recommended curing time

I let mine setup overnight. So far has worked perfectly. Cost me about $80.

I hope this works for you!
Dude! You could make a fortune repairing these things as there are a lot out there:wink:
 

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Registered 2012 SLK200
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17 Posts
Hi, got this problem on a SLK200 in the UK after the hot weather we are having. This is a stupid question I know but can you confirm that the work, clamp fitting etc is done with the roof half open. Seems obvious but you don't mention opening the roof in your brilliant solution. Thanks, Frank.
 

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Registered 2012 SLK250
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59 Posts
2012 SLK350, the roof panel was pulling away from the support bar and created about a 1/4 inch gap between the top of the windshield frame and the roof panel. Did not leak, but created tremendous wind noise.

- Took it to the dealer and was told solution was replacement of the roof panel for $5,000
- Took it to a body shop and they would not touch the roof, recommended the dealer

SOLUTION: There' s a support bar that the roof panel attaches to and it is glued from the factory. Appears it is only attached on the edges, thus the lack of mechanical integrity. This can be repaired with 3M Panel Bond or PlioGrip Panel 60, available from Amazon for about $70 with applicator. Do not use Epoxy or Gorilla glue as they do not have the resiliency to hold under stress. (I tried this first!) . You will also need a clamp with at least 9" deep jaws. Purchased this at Harbor Freight for $9. This clamp works like a Vise Grip and was easy to adjust.
1. Remove the headliner (Just snaps out and has a rubber retaining strip on each side)
2. Find the 3" bar that runs across the front of the roof. The roof release mechanisms are attached to it on each side. The Bar has a "honeycomb" design.
3. Put a drop cloth on your seats and dash in case of any spills.
4. Adjust your clamp so it pushes the roof back into place. Be SURE to not put pressure on the roof release mechanism by positioning the clamp so it goes into one of the honeycombs. You will have to fabricate a method of pushing the roof down as it is curved and a flat surface will not apply equal pressure. I put a pad on the roof then used a piece of wood with various size wedges across the surface area. This pushed the roof down equally across the area. ALSO, do not put so much pressure that you bend the roof.
5. Release the pressure on the clamp.
6. There's about a 1/4" to 1/2" gap between the roof panel and bar. Apply the bonding material in this gap as deep as possible. BE SURE TO NOT GET THIS ON THE ROOF RELEASE MECHANISMS. Also do not put so much that is leaks out the front. I think down the middel of the abr is fine.
7. Re-apply pressure with the clamp and let setup for recommended curing time

I let mine setup overnight. So far has worked perfectly. Cost me about $80.

I hope this works for you!

Hi SLK'ed,
So i've had a look at this, and I think the gap you are talking about to squeeze the Tiger seal in, is at the front of the bar where it meets the plastic roof (downward facing lip), see picture?
When i pull on the roof it goes up by about 3mm - which is enough!
I was thinking of using about 4 clamps along the roof line, starting in the middle and working out?
Also I was thinking you could mechanically fix it with self tapping screws as well?
Thoughts?
Cheers
James
 

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Premium Member 2012 SLK350
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725 Posts
Good job, SLKed! I believe my top is starting to de-laminate as well. Out here in the desert heat, that's no surprise. I'm really interested in this fix because I'd like to get to it before it gets really noticeable.
 

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Registered 2012 SLK250
Joined
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59 Posts
Good job, SLKed! I believe my top is starting to de-laminate as well. Out here in the desert heat, that's no surprise. I'm really interested in this fix because I'd like to get to it before it gets really noticeable.
2012 SLK350, the roof panel was pulling away from the support bar and created about a 1/4 inch gap between the top of the windshield frame and the roof panel. Did not leak, but created tremendous wind noise.

- Took it to the dealer and was told solution was replacement of the roof panel for $5,000
- Took it to a body shop and they would not touch the roof, recommended the dealer

SOLUTION: There' s a support bar that the roof panel attaches to and it is glued from the factory. Appears it is only attached on the edges, thus the lack of mechanical integrity. This can be repaired with 3M Panel Bond or PlioGrip Panel 60, available from Amazon for about $70 with applicator. Do not use Epoxy or Gorilla glue as they do not have the resiliency to hold under stress. (I tried this first!) . You will also need a clamp with at least 9" deep jaws. Purchased this at Harbor Freight for $9. This clamp works like a Vise Grip and was easy to adjust.
1. Remove the headliner (Just snaps out and has a rubber retaining strip on each side)
2. Find the 3" bar that runs across the front of the roof. The roof release mechanisms are attached to it on each side. The Bar has a "honeycomb" design.
3. Put a drop cloth on your seats and dash in case of any spills.
4. Adjust your clamp so it pushes the roof back into place. Be SURE to not put pressure on the roof release mechanism by positioning the clamp so it goes into one of the honeycombs. You will have to fabricate a method of pushing the roof down as it is curved and a flat surface will not apply equal pressure. I put a pad on the roof then used a piece of wood with various size wedges across the surface area. This pushed the roof down equally across the area. ALSO, do not put so much pressure that you bend the roof.
5. Release the pressure on the clamp.
6. There's about a 1/4" to 1/2" gap between the roof panel and bar. Apply the bonding material in this gap as deep as possible. BE SURE TO NOT GET THIS ON THE ROOF RELEASE MECHANISMS. Also do not put so much that is leaks out the front. I think down the middel of the abr is fine.
7. Re-apply pressure with the clamp and let setup for recommended curing time

I let mine setup overnight. So far has worked perfectly. Cost me about $80.

I hope this works for you!
There is also the Gap (fall of the roof) between panel and bar, at the rear of the bar.
Now that the headliner is off, as i drive along at 50mph the gap is about 3mm, as soon as i hit "fast" speeds, the gap rises to about 7-10mm, so you actually see the rise happening.
I am thinking of also squirting the tiger seal in three places along that bar/roof panel area, as marked on the uploaded photo.
 

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Registered 2012 SLK200
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17 Posts
Hi SLK170171172, not done this yet as the problem is not too big, except at motorway speeds when it does get noisy. May look at it this winter.
 

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Super Moderator UK SLK 55 AMG 2007
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28,629 Posts
I'm going to do it this weekend (weather permitting) and will do instructions with pictures. :wink:
Please add the pics as attachments.
Some third party hosts have scuppered many a diy by later blocking photos (eg photobucket).
 

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Registered 2012 SLK250
Joined
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59 Posts
Good luck jammersp! If it works out I might drive all the way down to Cheltenham to do mine under your guidance!
Okay so its done :smile:

The tiger seal went off reasonbly quick.
Pleased with the result so far, the roof now, does not move up and down above that bar, although proof of the pudding will be motorway speeds tomorrow ..... :surprise:

Have created a separate blog - got loads of photos ......;

https://www.slkworld.com/slk-r172-general-discussion/552946-slk-r172-delaminated-roof-fix.html#post4612892
 

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Registered
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2012 SLK350, the roof panel was pulling away from the support bar and created about a 1/4 inch gap between the top of the windshield frame and the roof panel. Did not leak, but created tremendous wind noise.

  • Took it to the dealer and was told solution was replacement of the roof panel for $5,000
  • Took it to a body shop and they would not touch the roof, recommended the dealer
SOLUTION: There' s a support bar that the roof panel attaches to and it is glued from the factory. Appears it is only attached on the edges, thus the lack of mechanical integrity. This can be repaired with 3M Panel Bond or PlioGrip Panel 60, available from Amazon for about $70 with applicator. Do not use Epoxy or Gorilla glue as they do not have the resiliency to hold under stress. (I tried this first!) . You will also need a clamp with at least 9" deep jaws. Purchased this at Harbor Freight for $9. This clamp works like a Vise Grip and was easy to adjust.
1. Remove the headliner (Just snaps out and has a rubber retaining strip on each side)
2. Find the 3" bar that runs across the front of the roof. The roof release mechanisms are attached to it on each side. The Bar has a "honeycomb" design.
3. Put a drop cloth on your seats and dash in case of any spills.
4. Adjust your clamp so it pushes the roof back into place. Be SURE to not put pressure on the roof release mechanism by positioning the clamp so it goes into one of the honeycombs. You will have to fabricate a method of pushing the roof down as it is curved and a flat surface will not apply equal pressure. I put a pad on the roof then used a piece of wood with various size wedges across the surface area. This pushed the roof down equally across the area. ALSO, do not put so much pressure that you bend the roof.
5. Release the pressure on the clamp.
6. There's about a 1/4" to 1/2" gap between the roof panel and bar. Apply the bonding material in this gap as deep as possible. BE SURE TO NOT GET THIS ON THE ROOF RELEASE MECHANISMS. Also do not put so much that is leaks out the front. I think down the middel of the abr is fine.
7. Re-apply pressure with the clamp and let setup for recommended curing time

I let mine setup overnight. So far has worked perfectly. Cost me about $80.

I hope this works for you!
Hi SLKed, did this work for you on the long-term? We have the same issue on our 2012 SLK200, but the local dealer is warning against this type of fix, saying that they've done it before and the roof delaminated again after 2-3 months.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
It is still holding. I did have to go in and do the other side. I only glued the passenger side the first time. I used PLIO GRIP Panel 60. From my research, this is the same adhesive that BMW uses on the M3, which has a carbon fiber roof panel. I also think I know what is causing the problem. The car has a venting problem. When all the windows are up in hot weather, pressure builds up and causes this problem.(Just a theory) I started leaving the windows open just a small amount if I am parking it on a hot day. Also, when you try to do this, make sure you clamp it good and leave it for 8 hours or so. I left mine overnight so it would setup. I am attaching a picture of mine with the clamps in place. I was very concerned about scratching the car or causing more damage. it looks amateurish, but it worked! You have to get it tight, but not bend the panel.
Hope this helps!
 

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Super Moderator CA 2012 SLK55 AMG w/P30
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14,153 Posts

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Super Moderator UK SLK 55 AMG 2007
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28,629 Posts
Hello. Thanks for your information. It is possible to link a video to watch this procedure?
Hello Herman,
Welcome to the forum.

Please take a moment to post an introduction.
See the thread below for help.
 

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Registered 2012 SLK250 CDI
Joined
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5 Posts
It is still holding. I did have to go in and do the other side. I only glued the passenger side the first time. I used PLIO GRIP Panel 60. From my research, this is the same adhesive that BMW uses on the M3, which has a carbon fiber roof panel. I also think I know what is causing the problem. The car has a venting problem. When all the windows are up in hot weather, pressure builds up and causes this problem.(Just a theory) I started leaving the windows open just a small amount if I am parking it on a hot day. Also, when you try to do this, make sure you clamp it good and leave it for 8 hours or so. I left mine overnight so it would setup. I am attaching a picture of mine with the clamps in place. I was very concerned about scratching the car or causing more damage. it looks amateurish, but it worked! You have to get it tight, but not bend the panel.
Hope this helps!
You have hit the nail on the head, what a poor joint relying on a bond with out a mechanical fastening.
Surely MB should have recalled the cars out of good will and honesty. I think a chat with a TV program of sorts could help.
IJ.
 

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Registered SLK 200 2012
Joined
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2 Posts
2012 SLK350, the roof panel was pulling away from the support bar and created about a 1/4 inch gap between the top of the windshield frame and the roof panel. Did not leak, but created tremendous wind noise.

  • Took it to the dealer and was told solution was replacement of the roof panel for $5,000
  • Took it to a body shop and they would not touch the roof, recommended the dealer
SOLUTION: There' s a support bar that the roof panel attaches to and it is glued from the factory. Appears it is only attached on the edges, thus the lack of mechanical integrity. This can be repaired with 3M Panel Bond or PlioGrip Panel 60, available from Amazon for about $70 with applicator. Do not use Epoxy or Gorilla glue as they do not have the resiliency to hold under stress. (I tried this first!) . You will also need a clamp with at least 9" deep jaws. Purchased this at Harbor Freight for $9. This clamp works like a Vise Grip and was easy to adjust.
1. Remove the headliner (Just snaps out and has a rubber retaining strip on each side)
2. Find the 3" bar that runs across the front of the roof. The roof release mechanisms are attached to it on each side. The Bar has a "honeycomb" design.
3. Put a drop cloth on your seats and dash in case of any spills.
4. Adjust your clamp so it pushes the roof back into place. Be SURE to not put pressure on the roof release mechanism by positioning the clamp so it goes into one of the honeycombs. You will have to fabricate a method of pushing the roof down as it is curved and a flat surface will not apply equal pressure. I put a pad on the roof then used a piece of wood with various size wedges across the surface area. This pushed the roof down equally across the area. ALSO, do not put so much pressure that you bend the roof.
5. Release the pressure on the clamp.
6. There's about a 1/4" to 1/2" gap between the roof panel and bar. Apply the bonding material in this gap as deep as possible. BE SURE TO NOT GET THIS ON THE ROOF RELEASE MECHANISMS. Also do not put so much that is leaks out the front. I think down the middel of the abr is fine.
7. Re-apply pressure with the clamp and let setup for recommended curing time

I let mine setup overnight. So far has worked perfectly. Cost me about $80.

I hope this works for you!
  1. It is still holding. I did have to go in and do the other side. I only glued the passenger side the first time. I used PLIO GRIP Panel 60. From my research, this is the same adhesive that BMW uses on the M3, which has a carbon fiber roof panel. I also think I know what is causing the problem. The car has a venting problem. When all the windows are up in hot weather, pressure builds up and causes this problem.(Just a theory) I started leaving the windows open just a small amount if I am parking it on a hot day. Also, when you try to do this, make sure you clamp it good and leave it for 8 hours or so. I left mine overnight so it would setup. I am attaching a picture of mine with the clamps in place. I was very concerned about scratching the car or causing more damage. it looks amateurish, but it worked! You have to get it tight, but not bend the panel.
    Hope this helps!
Hi . Thank you for all this information. I already fixed this issue. I used SIKA FLEX 221 BLACK, it is a very strong adhesive silicone, and held the roof panel tigh to bar using many strips of 3M 1" masking tape, so let the vario roof completely open ( in the trunk), overnight.
Now the whiste has gone.
 
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