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Registered 2003 SLK32 AMG
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, Hoping some one can share alittle light on my problem.


Ive changed my SC charge pump with an E55 one, reason being once the SC got hot, there was no power.


Now its much better, thing is now it lasts abit longer, if I switch the 32 off then on, it has its SC power for a while then loses the SC power and its back to a normal aspirated 320


Has any1 ever experienced something like this and what did you do to rectify?
 

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Super Moderator UK 2002 SLK320 Blue
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2,930 Posts
As Silkie is only a non-supercharged '320 I'm not best placed to advise here. Sorry.
 

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Registered 2003 SLK32 AMG
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks guys, I had a look and seen fuse no 15, had blown for the second time,, I added a bigger Amp fuse but the problem still persists. Is there a relay that cN possibly go as well?
 

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Adding bigger fuses will not sort out the problem. You need the correct IC pump fitting or you will damage the module that controls it all. As previously mentioned, the pump you have installed off a E55 will take way too much current for the SLK32 installation. The fuse rating should be 7.5amp as originally fitted.
 

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Premium Member 2001 SLK320/2000 SLK230
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2,719 Posts
AFAIR IAT is one of the parameters Torque Pro is able to monitor. The only way to know what is happening is to instrument and that includes an ammeter to monitor how much current the new pump is drawing. Otherwise you are just casting knucklebones and throwing money at it.

ps putting a bigger fuse init is just plain dangerous if the wiring is not sized to handle the extra current.

I suspect people over on the forum that may not be named know A Lot about the boosted 3.2. Over there it is called an SRT-6 and has a huge following.
 

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Registered 2002 SLK32 AMG
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233 Posts
I had this issue once upon a time, and I can offer a few tips:

-The correct replacement pump is the Bosch '010', and as mentioned above, most other pumps draw too much current for the stock wiring to handle.

-Trace and check your IC pump wiring for cracks/shorts! This is a 15 year old car- these sorts of things do happen, and did happen in my case. Grab the digital voltmeter and check for continuity, proper voltage, and excessive ohms all along the way. This goes double if you've modified the wiring in any way for the E55 pump.

-When was the last time the cooling system was properly flushed and serviced? You may have a clog in the heat exchanger, or an air bubble in the system, which would certainly cause an IAT spike like you're seeing. It's a good idea to backflush each individual cooling system component and refill with proper coolant every 2 years or so.

-How clean is the intercooler itself? These sit right behind the big mesh grille in the lower bumper- the perfect spot for the fins to get clogged with bugs/rocks/dirt/debris, and they're barely big enough to do the job when they're spotlessly clean from the factory. An intercooler that is dirty can't dissipate heat, and could also account for IAC spikes. The proper way to clean it is to blow it out thoroughly with compressed air from the back, and then rinse with a garden hose (not a pressure washer!) from the same direction. I did this to mine, which wasn't that dirty, and I saw a 10-15 degree drop in IAT from this alone.

I hope one or more of these things help you get her sorted out!
 
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