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I'm going to be replacing my front brake pads soon and was wondering as to what I should get, should I keep OEM or get EBC, Stoptech etc...? And I'm thinking about maybe putting on rotors should I get OEM or aftermarket ones and should I get them drilled/slotted or just plain? I do not race or track this car its mainly a weekend car with some spirited driving ;) . Thanks for any input.
 

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I replaced my OEMs, that had plenty of life left.. the back ones were almost new. I couldn't take all the dust. So I went ceramic for the sole reason of dust. Much happier now, they are almost fully broken in and are stopping as well as the old pads minus the dust..
 

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Here is why OEM mercedes brake pads create so much brake dust: the silica carbide in them to increase the coefficient of friction is sanding down the rotors, so the dust is mainly "ground rotor".

I am pasting in a post from another forum by a manufacturing engineer who worked for an OEM supplier of pads for mercedes:


Just some clarification here! 3 years ago I was the Manufacturing engineer for the Jurid Brakes (Honeywell/ Allied Signal /Bendix Germany) for the Mercedes SUV that is produced in Alabama. Most German cars use ATE (Alfred Teves / Continental) calipers but yes we have the Brembos on the Touareg. However!!! That does not mean that the brake pads come from the caliber manufacturer. It depends on the Car maker as to what pad choice he makes. For example we put Jurid pads in a ATE caliber because that is what Mercedes wanted. We supplied 1/2 the quantity and Textar (FMC) supplied the other half. We both shipped them to a ATE plant in South Carolina! Pagid is the ATE pad but they were not used. I have yet to see online anywhere a Brembo pad for my V-10.
Also little note here:
German pads have silicon carbide 2% which is what sand paper is made from. These pads turn the rotor like a lathe, hence the lip on the edge. They provide the Greatest coef. of friction. But TONS of brake dust which is also created because you are machining the cast iron rotors everytime you brake.
Americans hate brakes dust, so we used steel wool in the Ford F-150 and the other Dodge brakes we built. Not as good braking power and less dust. And you usually turn these rotors when you change pads because the surface has been heat hardened.
We used a brake dyno with samples from each lot made and I can tell you the Mercedes brakes generate MUCH MORE stopping power!!!
Japanese brake are organic, not much dust, and I don't know much more about them as we didn't produce any fitments.
 

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akebono ceramic brakes

can someone tell me what's the difference akebono ceramic pads for the 2003 slk32? according to familycar.com there are two different part numbers for both front and rear ceramic brake pads! what's the difference?
2003 slk32 rear - AKEUR603 vs W0133-1618070
2003 slk32 front - AKEUR682 vs W0133-1664585
there's a significant price difference here!

also why does amazon tell me that EUR603 pads doesn't go on my car but goes on a 2004 slk32? i thought 2003 & 2004 were the same!?!?!

thanks!
 

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can someone tell me what's the difference akebono ceramic pads for the 2003 slk32? according to familycar.com there are two different part numbers for both front and rear ceramic brake pads! what's the difference?
2003 slk32 rear - AKEUR603 vs W0133-1618070
2003 slk32 front - AKEUR682 vs W0133-1664585
there's a significant price difference here!

also why does amazon tell me that EUR603 pads doesn't go on my car but goes on a 2004 slk32? i thought 2003 & 2004 were the same!?!?!

thanks!

I know this post is oldish but it is still relevant as I soon need to replace the front pads in my SLK32 and fancied going the ceramic route.

Can anyone confirm if these are the correct part numbers for Akebono Euro's for the '32 and does anyone know of a supplier in the UK?

Any info on these ceramic pads would be very much appreciated.
:Beer:
Steve
 

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I can't confirm right now since I'm at work. However if I were to do all over again I would not pick the ceramic pads. Reason being that the ceramic pads had a little spongy feel to the brake petal. And no there aren't any air in the lines. We did bleed the lines like 3 times total and in addition changed out my master brake cylinder thinking that might of gone bad. But finally just settled with the spongy feeling. FYI, this is not a feeling from having air in the lines. It's just a feeling of a little lost responsiveness compared with original pads. Hope this info helps out someone in avoiding bleeding the lines again and again as well as spending extra $$ on a master cylinder that's not needed.
 
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