[1gcrazy]

So I've been searching for about an hour and haven't been able to find how to diagnose this non working roof. Basically, I bought this car months ago but have put it to the side. It obviously needs some work.
Radio doesn't work
Roof doesn't work
Supercharger doesn't kick on
Interior needs a refresh.
Anyway, i'm working on getting the roof to work. The roof button illuminates continuously and doesn't move or even make any noises within the car. Where the heck do I start? I'm not getting any CEL's pertaining to the roof but I didn't really think I would. Is there a cheap laptop based diagnostics software I can purchase to do a full comprehensive vehicle scan?

 

[jbanks15]

How old is the battery?
Has it been tested?

http://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-cl...bleshooting-tree-r170-courtesy-leapyfish.html

http://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-class-diy/213617-vario-roof-diagnostic-aid.html

 

[1gcrazy]

Battery is good and has been tested...

How old is the battery?
Has it been tested?

http://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-cl...bleshooting-tree-r170-courtesy-leapyfish.html

http://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-class-diy/213617-vario-roof-diagnostic-aid.html

 

[jbanks15]

Good? any idea how old? slks love great, not good

try a battery reset if you haven't

disconnect neg for minimum of 30 mins
but make sure you have radio code first
reconnect battery and reset clock and see what happens

 

[jbanks15]

Radio doesn't work
Roof doesn't work

you check the fuses?

 

[1gcrazy]

The guy I got the car from told me he did some various diagnostics on it. Checking fuses was in the list but I suppose I could double check the fuses.

 

[jbanks15]

forgive me. guy u got it from? does that mean bought from?
if things don't work, fuses first
but as mentioned. if the battery at a minimum does not have starting voltage of at least 12.3, it is not what the system needs for all the electronics to perform like they were designed.
try the battery reset as described above after checking the fuses.

do you need the fuse list and locations?

 

[1gcrazy]

I'm sure I can find the fuses and location.
I am also sure the battery is fine. It has been reset multiple times since I was using it temporarily to start my diesel for a day or two. The battery is also charged enough to start the car quickly.

I guess I should elaborate. I'm an Audi/VW mechanic. I have a small shop here in Colorado and mainly fix and flip. I offer services to select customers as well. I'm very well versed in most brands but when it comes to Mercedes', I don't have any of the tooling or any clue frankly.

forgive me. guy u got it from? does that mean bought from?
if things don't work, fuses first
but as mentioned. if the battery at a minimum does not have starting voltage of at least 12.3, it is not what the system needs for all the electronics to perform like they were designed.
try the battery reset as described above after checking the fuses.

do you need the fuse list and locations?

 

[jbanks15]

No problem. Members will chime in that can offer ideas
Europe though is sleeping so they will chime in tomorrow/soon
several fuses for both radio and roof in at least 2 locations

 

[1gcrazy]

Thanks for the help, i'll double check fuses.

No problem. Members will chime in that can offer ideas
Europe though is sleeping so they will chime in tomorrow/soon
several fuses for both radio and roof in at least 2 locations

 

[jbanks15]

let us know if you need those locations

 

[efair]

The roof is controlled by the CCM aka MFCU including the red button and the sensing switches. You should sanity check the switches since they get sticky, break, and get dislocated frequently. The switches are N.O. and, when closed, simply ground pins on the MFCU. Because the MFCU is easily accessed in situ you can test whether the switches are "correct" by back probing the MFCU pins. You don't need to disconnect it but you may need to cut some tie wraps for access.

Attach a test lamp to battery + and back-probe the following MFCU pins to sanity test their function (don't disconnect the MFCU from the harness; if the test light illuminates, then "function" is asserted):

S69/1 "roof closed" switch (in top of right A pillar): pin 32 GNBK;
S69/2 & S69/3 "roof locked" (right & left rotary tumbler are in series) pin 30 GNGY;
S69/7 & S69/8 "lid down" (Left & right) are in series: pin 37 BUYE;
S69/9 "lid open" (right rear crner): pin 52 BUYE;
S69/10 "luggage cover extended": pin 54 GYVT;
S69/11 "roof open" (starboard near quarter window): pin 33 GYPK;
S69/12 "trunk closed" lid/rotary tumbler/trunk lamp switch (insures nobody is putting groceries in the trunk) pin 69 BUGY;

S84 is the roof switch w/integral lamp, it can be tested similarly in both directions: pin 28 WHVT & 29 GNVT

For example if pin 32 lights the test lamp the MFCU thinks "yes the roof is closed"

 

[jbanks15]

Component Locations

 

[efair]

A.K.A. N10/3; Component Locations n10_3

 

[ardo]

roof problem

The roof is controlled by the CCM aka MFCU including the red button and the sensing switches. You should sanity check the switches since they get sticky, break, and get dislocated frequently. The switches are N.O. and, when closed, simply ground pins on the MFCU. Because the MFCU is easily accessed in situ you can test whether the switches are "correct" by back probing the MFCU pins. You don't need to disconnect it but you may need to cut some tie wraps for access.

Attach a test lamp to battery + and back-probe the following MFCU pins to sanity test their function (don't disconnect the MFCU from the harness; if the test light illuminates, then "function" is asserted):

S69/1 "roof closed" switch (in top of right A pillar): pin 32 GNBK;
S69/2 & S69/3 "roof locked" (right & left rotary tumbler are in series) pin 30 GNGY;
S69/7 & S69/8 "lid down" (Left & right) are in series: pin 37 BUYE;
S69/9 "lid open" (right rear crner): pin 52 BUYE;
S69/10 "luggage cover extended": pin 54 GYVT;
S69/11 "roof open" (starboard near quarter window): pin 33 GYPK;
S69/12 "trunk closed" lid/rotary tumbler/trunk lamp switch (insures nobody is putting groceries in the trunk) pin 69 BUGY;

S84 is the roof switch w/integral lamp, it can be tested similarly in both directions: pin 28 WHVT & 29 GNVT

For example if pin 32 lights the test lamp the MFCU thinks "yes the roof is closed"

Hi Efair, I am not good at abbreviations, can toy please simplify the abbreviations you are using so may be I can use please? Thank you

 

[savcom]

Hi Efair, I am not good at abbreviations, can toy please simplify the abbreviations you are using so may be I can use please? Thank you

The four letter abbreviations are wire colours. Here are the codes in long-hand...

pin 32 GNBK - Green/Black
pin 30 GNGY - Green/Grey
pin 37 BUYE - Blue/Yellow
pin 52 BUYE - Blue/Yellow
pin 54 GYVT - Grey/Violet
pin 33 GYPK - Grey/Pink
pin 69 BUGY - Blue/Grey
pin 28 WHVT - White/Violet
pin 29 GNVT - Green/Violet

 

[neileg]

Go on, I'll ask the stupid question. Have you got the boot (trunk) blind closed when you try to operate the roof?
Cheers Neil


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ardo]

switches

The four letter abbreviations are wire colours. Here are the codes in long-hand...

pin 32 GNBK - Green/Black
pin 30 GNGY - Green/Grey
pin 37 BUYE - Blue/Yellow
pin 52 BUYE - Blue/Yellow
pin 54 GYVT - Grey/Violet
pin 33 GYPK - Grey/Pink
pin 69 BUGY - Blue/Grey
pin 28 WHVT - White/Violet
pin 29 GNVT - Green/Violet

Thank you very much for your simplification, these pins are in the 38 pin connector? if I have a ohm meter can I check these pins, if so can you please tell me how it is done,
I appreciate all the help you have given, I still need to resolve my roof problem that does not open. Thank you have a nice day

 

[savcom]

Thank you very much for your simplification, these pins are in the 38 pin connector? if I have a ohm meter can I check these pins, if so can you please tell me how it is done,
I appreciate all the help you have given, I still need to resolve my roof problem that does not open. Thank you have a nice day

No. These pins are the pins on the Multi-function control module, known as N10. It's location is found from this part of SLKWorld You can use efair's advice and use a 12v lamp as he describes to test the roof logic or if you're more comfortable with a diagram have a look at the attachments below.

If the diagram is too small to read let me know and I'll find another way to get the info published.

 

[efair]

Just in case you can't view the pinout use this:

MFCU Roof Switch Pinout 1998.jpg

drive.google.com