Mercedes SLK World banner
  • Hey Everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of this months Ride of the Month Challenge!
1 - 9 of 9 Posts

· *Registered
Joined
·
1,085 Posts
As you already have been pointed this:
Automotive lighting Automotive tire Gas Automotive exterior Bumper

Is not good. The surface should be smooth as teardrop, let's say.
I have advised people to visit Mobile Phone repair shops, as they are on each corner, but the TV repair man can do it too.
If not too much too ask can you upload a pic with the part number of your K-40 theat is printed on the plastic box. Just curious nothing else.
 

· *Registered
Joined
·
1,085 Posts
Indeed :confused:
Thinking aloud .. it seems odd that there are no other symptoms that are associated with K40 failures .. atm it's just the cooling fan .. which has its own controller ..
Might be piece of the puzzle, might be nothing...anyway the controller of that fan needs power supply too. I am not in search mood, to dig into the wirings and figure out is it (indirectly) coming from the k40 or ...need beer, food and shower. Probably more beer...
 

· *Registered
Joined
·
1,085 Posts
There you go ..
View attachment 621360

Further testing required but atm I'm not convinced that it is the K40 :unsure:
Looks like you are correct!
Hot all time, sounds like non stop, so ...there is a potentially busted fuse (resistor, capacitor......) inside the controller that is sending 100% rpms right NOW signal...
 

· *Registered
Joined
·
1,085 Posts
Well it ain't a day of waste if you learn a thing, in'it?
So the coolant T sensor you mentioned is part of the "cooling the engine" logic. So can you confirm it was all nicely clicked?
Because the high RPMS are coming as command and that command before you rotate the key to position || isn't from the engine ECU. So, it (speculation, not statement) could be the signal not being "received" by that fan control module and/or not having the expected (whatever degrees Vs open circuit) readings on the inlet results on MAX power on the outlet.
The low coolant level should have been on the DASH and if your dash works (key to | = airbags ON, key to ||= all rest of the bulbs on) the level could be low, but not scary low.
As usual, the checking of your own work repays the most. So are you sure that T sensor was well clicked?
On a side note, you do have amp meter now, remove all off the car ( usb sticks, extra phone chargers...) Close the doors, lock it. Disconnect the battery.
Set the multimeter to AMP use the 2 plugs AMP Sports equipment Camera accessory Reflex camera Audio equipment Camera
and COM,set it to max amp range and connect the negative car clamp to com and the positive probe to the battery terminal.
Readings under 0.050Amps are desirable, unde 0.025 A are a dream!
Over 0.05Amp you have problems.
Good job on identifying the issue for sure!
 

· *Registered
Joined
·
1,085 Posts
Not being funny just asking, coolant leak is or is not a MOT failure?
Knowing issue with pipe, expansion tank, etc....is not making the car "dangerous" is it?
 
  • Like
Reactions: M4rCu5

· *Registered
Joined
·
1,085 Posts
Knowing the motor trade how I do, and having been in it for 46 coming up 47 years of my 60 goin' on 61 I can honestly say I've seen it all .........................

I'd want to verify any HG diagnosis myself, and the wee cheap sniffer would be money well spent ;)
I have a sniifer, a bit more fancy being a Snap On, but it's the same principle & chemical used to detect combustion gases ;)

Even if they weren't wanting to buy the car cheap, they may not want the hassle of finding and fixing the leak, perhaps they have been bitten by an MB before, so it is far easier for them to sound all professional like and talk a customer into "It's not worth doing" !
MOT Garages they like quick turnaround work, my tester mans garage always send the bigger jobs here ;)

There is another garage near me who tells customers "Mercedes are not repairable" ................. Because he is a no nuffink who got bitten when someone took him to court for screwing up their ML :rolleyes:

I fixed that ML now they come here all the time ;)
The MOT station, I used to use before moving, were offering new calliper (different car not mine) instead replacing the piston (the set comes with rubbers too). And have replaced only left front spring and left front shock absorber (not set). The suspension elements they noted as advisory in 2021, were not mentioned in the 2022 MOT.
So yes you have a point, but the distance, the efforts, the time (I know, I spent 9 months to do it my way) are a factor.
And OP's vehicle being near me (I have extra parking spot) has only 1 downside it is a FL. Not like mine.
But on the side of breaker's offer. 20 component x20£ = 400£ and the rest can still go for scrap.
So side mirrors, more than 20 over eb**. Rims airbags plus module for them, something more than 20£ I think, fan controller, 6-7 black boxes, ABS module, DAS with locks and keys, PSE, roofpump.....however it takes time and space not a spoon for every mouth as we know.
 

· *Registered
Joined
·
1,085 Posts
It horrifies me that folks actually buy these kits of Seals and Pistons and DIY 'em, especially when you consider that the parts eminate from the land of Chow Mein, so the Seals are probably made from recycled condoms and the such like :eek:
Big Red I believe it was, made in UK with warranty. Rubber boot to keep the dust off and internal teflon (like) seal to keep the oil in. 2 bolt caps, grease pack.
That was on the left (near) side, where the same people replaced the right (driver), 1 year prior. With non branded one for 90£ with returning the original Toyota caliper back to the seller.

On a personal experience, with a repair kit from a brand I do not remember my '96 Accord did 40K km and was transferred to a different person. No one complained (nope no crashes). Recently I saw it for sale with 320 000 on the clock, all the bumpers with drywall screws....but with the alloys ;).
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top