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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 1998 slk I just replaced my two trunk cylinders because they were leaking. I sent them off to be fixed and got them back and Installed them. I filled up my hydraulic fluid. But now when I try to open top the windows go down, but the trunk only opens about a quarter inch , the motor is running and no warning lights blink but the top doesn't go past this ...basically my truck dosent open up and it stalls out here. Not sure where to go with this, I have Googled this and not seen the answer. It should be common I thought?? Earlier in the year I replaced my other 2 cylinders. So far I have tried to depressure the system, I have unplugged battery to reset the system but nothing works any suggestions????????
 

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until someone responds, if you have not reset the car try it

disconnect the negative cable for a minimum of 30 minutes
but please make sure you have the radio code if oem radio
reconnect battery after 30 mins and reset clock and see if things are back to normal
good luck!
 

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Sound like something is physical stopping the hydraulics’from working properly. Are you able to manual open your truck fully with no binding?If so I would continue manually retracing the top, and make sure the rear deckwings are moving correctly.
 

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On our first SLK (1999), we had to have the trunk hydraulic cylinders rebuilt. It took "forever" to get the to operational. They cylinders are self-bleeding, but it seems to me that is where the problem arose (we now have a 2001 SLK that when we purchased it, the top was not operational. We rebuild all the cylinders ourself, and they worked instantly). On the 1999 we had to "assist" it through the cycle a number of times (perhaps a dozen or so), then it started working and continued to work the entire time we owned it. It was a two person operation. One person held the button, and the other pulled back on the trunk, helping it through the cycle. I'm not sure if that's what got it working, and I am fairly certain that this method isn't in the service manual, but something got it working. We had to do the same thing for another member who had the locking cylinder in the roof rebuilt.

Good luck,
Tim
 

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2005 SLK55 AMG /2005 SLK350
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I don't have anything concrete to offer but will add to Tim's comments... I too had my boot cylinders rebuilt due to a "sticky" boot lid cylinder on the left. Although it worked and did not leak, it moved slower than the right one and caused mechanical problems. I sent both off to Top Hydraulics for a rebuild, and I asked them to inspect for a possible cause. He said there was debris inside the affected cylinder that could account for a fluid blockage and could in turn cause slow operation.

Also, I had the chance to disassemble/destroy a boot cylinder. Because the ram travels much further in these two cylinders, they have a unique construction. That construction lends itself to blockage and seizure more readily than the the other three cylinders. If you look at the boot cylinders you'll see there are four interior "rings" - one on each end and two in between (look for the dots perpendicular to the centerline). The middle two rings are two additional steel bushings, and there's an additional steel sleeve sandwiched between those two rings. These serve to stabilize the ram but they also introduce additional friction and wear, and they do offer additional opportunities for fluid blockage.
 

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I don't have anything concrete to offer but will add to Tim's comments... I too had my boot cylinders rebuilt due to a "sticky" boot lid cylinder on the left. Although it worked and did not leak, it moved slower than the right one and caused mechanical problems. I sent both off to Top Hydraulics for a rebuild, and I asked them to inspect for a possible cause. He said there was debris inside the affected cylinder that could account for a fluid blockage and could in turn cause slow operation.

Also, I had the chance to disassemble/destroy a boot cylinder. Because the ram travels much further in these two cylinders, they have a unique construction. That construction lends itself to blockage and seizure more readily than the the other three cylinders. If you look at the boot cylinders you'll see there are four interior "rings" - one on each end and two in between (look for the dots perpendicular to the centerline). The middle two rings are two additional steel bushings, and there's an additional steel sleeve sandwiched between those two rings. These serve to stabilize the ram but they also introduce additional friction and wear, and they do offer additional opportunities for fluid blockage.

Good thought about the debris causing an issue. I would think that the "pro" that rebuilt the trunk cylinders would be certain to clean the interior before re-assembling, but that may not have been the case. When we rebuild ours, we made certain that any debris/old seal remains were out before putting them back together.

The other variable is the self-rebuild..... Since we weren't sending them out to rebuild, even though the trunk lining was disassembled for access, the hydraulic lines were long enough that we put the new seals in without detaching the lines from the pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok, I got my top down by manually opening the trunk and pulling the trunk release cable of the drivers side, then the top was stuck down! And rain expected all week! Similar problem, motor runs , trunk tries to open but sticking on drivers side. With trunk partially open I can open trunk pull that same cable and close trunk and continue...I guess my trunk switch is out of sync???? It seems to be stuck shut....

Thanks for the help guys
 

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It sounds more like the Bowden cable needs adjustment. After you manually pull the release and close the trunk does the roof start operating as expected?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Here is An update, I manually clicked the level on the locking mech of the drivers side switch, ran the top with np problem. Several test runs and it worked perfect. Now the kicker...
went to put the side panels back in the trunk, and when closing the trunk the trunk wouldn't close. It's like all my lock mechanism are always backwards. So manually get the trunk right shut the trunk. Tested the top and the passenger side is now the side sticking....I can pull the release cable and top will work perfect. ..
so long story short, my top works unless I open the trunk for any reason? This is odd
 

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Are you sure the two cables are attached as they should be? The bases of the two boot lid cylinders are connected via cables to the two latches atop the wheel wells? I suggest raising the lid to the assembly position, securing it safely, disconnecting the yokes on top of the rods from the tubular frame, and studying how the cables act on the two latches. Use a small screwdriver or L-shaped pick to "arm" the latches, and then raise and lower the cylinder +/- 1" (per the slots at the bottom), watching the cables as you do so, and listening for the alarm to snap open. If the latches don't snap open, you probably need to tighten the cables.
 
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