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Discussion Starter #1
I swear I tried and tried and looked all over top rebuild posts.....
but how in the world do you remove the forward pin on the lift cylinders?
(I'm removing all the cylinders and shipping them off to TopHydraulics)

I removed the clip, pushed the pin towards the inside of the car, but the driver's side pin hits a solid wall of metal before it comes off.
The passenger side has a limit switch in the way. How in the heck does that switch come off?
I tried using my plastic pry bar and it won't budge. I dont want to break it.

Any ideas on how the pin is removed? I'm at my wits end!

Also, my top locking cylinder line was pinched and now has a leak. Can they rebuild the line? or do I have to buy a whole new cylinder?

-Frustrated in Dallas, TX
 

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Super Moderator UK SLK 55 AMG 2007
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There's a few who have done it.

A reply depends on when they are back.
 

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Premium Member 2005 SLK55 AMG; 2005 SLK350
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The switch just pries off towards the centerline of the car. Wedge a screwdriver between the switch and the steel plate it's attached to.

I've removed several of these cylinders over the last few years, in all cases there was enough room for the pins to be easily removed (after the switch was removed of course). IDK why your clearance is inadequate.
 

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Registered 2000 SLK200K
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I did the right cyclinder. Just sprey some wd40 between the switch and metal, then pry. It should pop.
Then remove the switch and push the pin as far it goes. Dont worry it will not drop. You dont need to remove it completely. I removed the cylinder it even without removing the rear shelf, just with rear window open. Real pain is putting it back!

I have no experience on driver side but probably the cylinder should be free in your case (picture). Why dont you measure the pin lenght as installed (from above) and check if its out of the cylinder when touching the metal.

BTW, I believe anyone can rebuild the roof cylinders if they are capable of removing them, it's so simple compared. Just need the right seals, U-rings not the O-rings for long term convenience.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you Murat Orhan!

I was able to pry off the roof switch with a screw driver by pushing it into the middle, then slide up and then slide down, causing the little hooks to compress. Whew, it was a hassle because I didn't want to have to buy another!

I did what Murat said and measured the width of the cylinder VS. the width of the inner area. Turns out, it is exactly the same!
Check out my pic, it shows the pin fully pushed out all the way touching the fixed wall and being completely flush with the holding hole.
I have no idea how they fit that pin from the factory!

Since the plastic cylinder bushings were slightly compressed, I had to reach into the trunk and pull back and forth on the piston to wiggle the cylinder free. I pulled it backwards towards the trunk to free it up, but it has to be removed forward toward the front of the car once it's free.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
PS- I called Top Hydraulics, they offer line repair/replacement for an additional $100 per line. I only have one hole in one line caused by the line being pinched in the top locks.

My total cost is $405 plus $20 for shipping to them. The wait time will be around 1.5 weeks to 2 weeks.

Worth the wait plus they offer a 3 year warranty.

***PS2- i can drive my car around without any cylinders, you just have to be sure to lock down your trunk by pulling on the lower wires that were hooked to the rear cylinder. Only pull on these AFTER the front of the trunk is lowered and placed into the square locking mechanism. Picture the trunk open and tilted forward. My head into the open trunk, pulling the frame arm into the square lock while pulling on the wire.

In other words, the wires with the loops and black plastic are there to UNLOCK the front of the trunk. The wires that are attached to the lower part of the rear cylinder are there to lock the front of the trunk once pulled.
 

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Premium Member 2005 SLK55 AMG; 2005 SLK350
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So you were able to latch the lid down securely into the wheel well latches manually?

I thought those two cables had to be slackened, not tightened, in order to allow the latch to engage... I will take a look at one today.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Here's my theory:

The wheel latches are like electronic solenoids. Once energized, they open and close. The wire with a loop, once pulled, overrides the electric lock and swings it open.
The other wire that hooks to the rear cylinder, once pulled, just swings the override back into place, thereby locking it again.

The electric solenoid stays locked the entire time.

I could be wrong, but what I do know is that I can push down the trunk inner arm while pulling the cylinder arm wire and it locks (one lock at a time.
 

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