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Premium Member 2002 R170 SLK V8 5.0
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5,144 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1,501 ·
LOL, I just can't help myself, I bought another 2 new pattern rear 1/4 panels last night from the Polish guy, welding them into this car will be a good practice run before I do my V8 ;)

I just think I might as well do all this while I'm at it's back end ;)

I also found a litre of Brilliant Silber Base Coat when I was moving all my Paintwork stock down to the booth ;)

Good news from last night, out with a big Breaker bar, 3 of the Subframe bolts are unscrewing freely, and the other one turned about 2 turns out, then started getting a little tighter so I ran it back in and left it soaking in WD40 overnight, so they will come out fine.

Good used 096 Battery on it, and I fitted the Rear Number plate on properly as it was drunk ;)
Tatty old Car looks better already ;)

S/Frame should be out by lunchtime and Sill Side-skirts off, then the cutting out of rot can commence :D
 

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Premium Member 2002 R170 SLK V8 5.0
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5,144 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1,502 ·
Subframe forward mounts aren't as bad as I thought, they are really solid inside the outer skin :)

Let the chopping out and rebuilding commence, everything came undone except the 3 Exhaust flange Bolts which I just cut and bashed outta the Flanges, so I got until Sunday, should start Welding tomorrow :)

I took the liberty of ordering more Zintec Sheet, 6 ft x 3 ft :D :D :D
Also a huge box of Cutting Wheels and a box of 60 grit Flap Sander Wheels :ROFLMAO:

The Sills are better than I expected, the rear Floor might as well get done along the right angle behind seats as it's grotty and would certainly need doing in a year or 2, Seats and Centre Console are coming out next and and Carpet folded forward to avoid having to phone 999 Trumpton 🤣 🤣 🤣

Pixels ....







TTFN :)
 

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Premium Member 2002 R170 SLK V8 5.0
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5,144 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1,503 ·
This is a serious structural issue, left untreated, and without experience of welding :poop: like my pic below, it will write the car off, you can't just patch over the top of it, have to remove sections above, weld into and tie in the structures underneath and finally weld in new metal on top, and when all that is done fill all these cavities with a galloon of Waxoyl !!

So in a nutshell, a lot of welding needed, (a lot more than I had anticipated when I first got the car home), but I own this bucket of rust now, so I either do it properly or break it for spares ;) Thankfully it is localised to these 2 areas only the rest of this Car seems to be in good condition, will certainly pass MOT when all this is done ;)



I have a funny feeling there are a lot more forum Members who will have this problem if they dig about underneath the thick underseal :(

Now I have it all stripped, Subframe out, and all the other bits off, it also needs 2 x front to rear Brake Pipes :ROFLMAO:

I'm cutting out today, but also need to make Card Templates before cutting, Target is to get the inboard areas done and Subframe back in by Sunday so I can move the car out, then I can do the bits under the wheelarch and sills at my leisure when time allows, just by taking the wheels off ;)

Oh and heres a tip :ROFLMAO:

If your taking the rear subframe outta your car, don't leave the roof folded down .....................

DOH !! I did, and of course, when you remove the Subframe you unplug the rear ABS Sensors, now the roof don't fold back up ..................

Yeah yeah I know I'm a pillock !! Had to use the Emergency Procedure to put the roof back up so I could strip out all the trims in the Boot so I don't set fire to owt ;)
 

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Premium Member 2002 R170 SLK V8 5.0
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5,144 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1,504 ·
Well now I've got to the sanding stage with 60 grit flap wheels it's not looking as bad plenty of solid good metal to work from, the outer sill isn't too bad, but of course I gotta cut a section out in order to sort out the grot inside , but hey ho, onwards and forwards .......................

All the destruction is done so I'm onto cutting out now, hopefully all the cutting will be finished today ;)
 

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Premium Member 1999 SLK 5.4 M113
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1,481 Posts
You saw me drop my subframe and couldn't help but do one for yourself!! ;)

It's interesting to see how an SLK rusts. You see SOME rust in Kansas, but no where close to the northern states. Every SLK I've seen has been nearly rust free around here so I assumed they are protected pretty good. I did hear that 2001 plus MB's were a lot more likely to rust as well... maybe that's just a myth though.
 

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Premium Member 2002 R170 SLK V8 5.0
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5,144 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1,506 ·
Hi Aaron,

This one is another SLK V6, it's a Brilliant Silver 2000 Model Year ;)
I bought it cheap on Saturday last to use as my R&D Car, initially for getting the 7 G Transmission Conversion right before swapping it all into my V8 :D

Heaven knows what I'll do with it after that, the rest of it is in very good all round condition, so it's worth saving rather than breaking.

Although it is taking up a fair bit of time, I'm always quiet week after Easter, so an ideal time to do it, the actual Welding Consumables don't cost me anything, all tax deductable 🤣

I envy you guys in some States, 20 year old cars with no rust lol, in UK everything rusts, I must confess this is one of the worst I've seen, but I did get it stoopidly cheap and whilst i wasn't expecting quite such a rot fest, it's well on it's way to repair, following all the cutting out to access the area, I'm now actually piecing all the unseen structure back together.

Thankfully the left Side isn't as bad, so although the same job it won't need as much.
I'm only doing the structure right now, then I can put the Subframe back in before next week so it can be moved out of the workshop and I'll replace the rear Wheelarch and back piece of Sill panels later on ;)
 

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Registered 2001 SLK320
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371 Posts
Hi Aaron,

This one is another SLK V6, it's a Brilliant Silver 2000 Model Year ;)
I bought it cheap on Saturday last to use as my R&D Car, initially for getting the 7 G Transmission Conversion right before swapping it all into my V8 :D

Heaven knows what I'll do with it after that, the rest of it is in very good all round condition, so it's worth saving rather than breaking.

Although it is taking up a fair bit of time, I'm always quiet week after Easter, so an ideal time to do it, the actual Welding Consumables don't cost me anything, all tax deductable 🤣

I envy you guys in some States, 20 year old cars with no rust lol, in UK everything rusts, I must confess this is one of the worst I've seen, but I did get it stoopidly cheap and whilst i wasn't expecting quite such a rot fest, it's well on it's way to repair, following all the cutting out to access the area, I'm now actually piecing all the unseen structure back together.

Thankfully the left Side isn't as bad, so although the same job it won't need as much.
I'm only doing the structure right now, then I can put the Subframe back in before next week so it can be moved out of the workshop and I'll replace the rear Wheelarch and back piece of Sill panels later on ;)
Interesting that the RHS is the most rusty Dave, my experience has often shown the nearside to be worst presumably through running near the verges and gutters where standing water, mud and stuff collects.
 

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Premium Member 2002 R170 SLK V8 5.0
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5,144 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1,508 · (Edited)
my experience has often shown the nearside to be worst
I used to find that when I lived in SE England, yeah, I agree to a point, but these last 15 years since moving to NW Scotland I have formed a different theory ;)

I think that the standing water kerbside washes salt off on that side, I have welded up my fair share of old :poop: over the years, and since being in NW where there is a very aggressive climate and much salt on the roads I have found that the Right Side theory seems to apply.

I'd say this car has been near the coast for a significant part of its life ;)

There was about 12" to 18" of the internal structure just missing rotted away on the Right side, only 3 to 4" up on the Left side ;)

Thankfully the LHS doesn't look as bad, just around 3" to 4" up from Sill level, so hopefully when I start that side I'll have a lot less to do ;)

I'm assuming about 7 x 6 hr days to do both sides so if someone had to pay me to do this job circa £2520 just in labour plus welding consumables, Waxoyl and Underseal etc and that doesn't include the Wheel-arch replacements and paintwork which I will be doing later on ........................

Yeah, hindsight and all that ..................
So I drove a 700 mile round trip to get this Car, and I should have just walked as soon as I saw it and saved up a bit more spare cash for my "Projects Pot", then paid a couple of £ grand for a decent Car ;)
Instead of that I just gave him the £500 and took it away, working on the basis it had a couple of rare and decent parts I wanted for my V8 Car, and I could always get my money back ++++ by breaking it.
The seller was, to say the least, very economical truth wise, and yep the last MOT, (4 Days after he bought the car), was definitely well dodgy, it didn't get this bad in 18 months ;)

That said, yeah, I knew from the outset that it would have more rot than just Rear Wheelarches, but I am known for being a glutton for punishment when it comes to saving old cars from destruction 🤣

TBH I would have broken this Car up if it wasn't for the fact this rot is very localised and the rest of the Car is good structurally, front wings have been replaced paintwork isn't bad and it runs and drives really well, all suspension and brakes have been done recently or in excellent condition ;)

If it wasn't for the Rust it would have passed an MOT with a couple of small electrical jobs lighting wise ;)

Plus being Easter weekend just gone, I didn't book any work in for this week, except for 2 small jobs that are waiting on parts since last week ;)

So, once I cut the right side all out here's what I got, notice the 2 structural internal reinforcements that you can't normally see as it is inside the box sections ....................

Apologies, 1 or 2 of these pics were taken at 45 degrees to capture the full length involved, taken at close of play last night ....









Better go get back to welding up the "Titanic" then :) .............................

Update L8r's
 

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Premium Member 2002 R170 SLK V8 5.0
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5,144 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1,509 ·
OK right forward Subframe mount and "Ze Wheelhouse", (Inner Wheel-arch) to us mere mortals is now reinstated to just above Jacking Point level, I have left it there so once the Subframe is back in and the car mobile again I can do the low down rust just by removing the wheels ;)
I would have liked to have done this in one piece but the double curvature made it impossible with the equipment I have, so 2 pieces it was, there will be one more for final closure after doing the Jacking Point welding ;)

So tommorrow hopefully there will be less welding needed to re instate the left side forward Subframe Mounting, certainly looks that way from shining the torch up inside ;)

Lord God Mercedes knew how rotten these cars would go, so they thoughtfully provided somewhere to hold a welding torch :D ....



The first closure Panel cut for the Inner Wheelarch area ....



and Welded in ....



And above the level of the rotten Jacking Point the second piece welded in ....



I have obviously kept my Card Templates, as they can be flipped to make panels for the other side, hopefully I won't need to fabricate as many ;)

Back at the LH side tomorrow ;)
 

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Premium Member 2001 SLK200K/2001 SLK320
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2,761 Posts
I have a funny feeling there are a lot more forum Members who will have this problem if they dig about underneath the thick underseal :(
Indeed.

Rotten as a pear, it reminds me of a Citroen GS Club that I once (briefly) had :censored:

Nice job maestro, good to see that you're keeping yourself busy :D
 

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Premium Member 2002 R170 SLK V8 5.0
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5,144 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1,513 · (Edited)
If I were anyone with an R170 I would buy a cheap USB Endoscope Camera, pull out all the rubber bungs going into these (and other) box sections, Sills etc (take out the round plastic clips that hold the side skirts underneath) and inspect your Cars inner bowels, I was unaware of this as being such a big issue, but I suppose yeah, 21 year old Car etc etc etc ;)

I didn't think it was as bad on the left side, (it isn't quite but yeah, it's only a year or so away), so I cut it open to inspect and here we go, it needs work, so I'm actually going to replace and strengthen all of this just like I did on the other side :)

This is the Left side now cut open ready to start cutting and welding today, notice inside this chassis section there are 2 reinforcing rails, the one with the pressed holes and the one behind it ....





This is the right side now gone as far as I'm going to for now to enable me to get the Subframe back in, Wheels on and move the car around ;) ....



I will finish the lower inner Wheel-arch sections and both Sill / Jacking point areas at my leisure, because I don't need Subframe out just take Wheels off to do these ;) If I had a bigger Workshop with more lifts I'd carry on, but Customers are now queuing up and I need to get the Car off the lift asap ;)

This is the "Jacking Point rot", common on all Mercedes Cars and a much easier repair ;) ....



When this lot is finished I am going to absolutely soak all internal Chassis and Sill sections by high pressure spraying galloons of Waxoyl in through all the Grommet Bungs and Sill Cover Clip Holes ;)

And then, after this is replacing the rear Wheel Arches and re spraying them and a couple of other touch ins :ROFLMAO:

Another FYI .................

Those Re-inforcing Bars that bolt to the Spare Wheel Well and outer Sills, (and the front ones), they are not solid bar :(
On V6 Car they are really rotten, one has actually broken ..................

I will be replacing them and the front's with 4mm thick solid bar, I was (am) going to do these in Stainless bar on the V8 R170 ;)

For now,

Over and Out ;)

HTH ;)
 

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Premium Member 2002 R170 SLK V8 5.0
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5,144 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1,516 ·
Well there I was all set to finish the Left Side to "rear Subframe can temporarily go back in, car can then be moved status" ..................

Left Chassis internal rebuilding, and Subframe Mounting tieing in done ....



And what happens next .................................

Yeah, just as I'm on the final weld in there, the bloody Mig Wire runs out, OK, I'll get one sent over from Inverness (15Kg 0.6mm) for first thing in the morning ........................

Except all outta stock :(

After a bit of phoning around a mate from Kyle (fleet owner workshop) got his brother to drop in a half used roll on his way home at 7pm last night ;)

So I'll get the Inner Arch reinstated same as other side this morning and then I can temporarily chuck the Subframe back in on bare minimum of its 4 Bolts, 3 on Propshaft plus 2 on lower Arms / Shock Absorbers :)

I will leave the Handbrake Cables disconnected, the rear Calipers, and the rear Anti Rollbar off as it will have to come out one more time to replace the front to rear Brake Pipes and all Boot Floor / Rear Chassis underside area will need "Wire Wheeled" and Schutzed Black :)

Brake Pipes are removed and capped where the Couplers are at the front underside of the Car, so I can move it around then under its own steam, because the Front Brakes are still working :)

Then I can work on the Inner Sill and Jacking Point areas, plus the rear L shaped Floor Joint in between other jobs, as that work only entails sticking it on the lift and removing the Rear Wheels :)

Best go get on wi' it then :)
 

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Premium Member 2002 R170 SLK V8 5.0
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5,144 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1,518 ·
Yeah I am envious of you guys in warmer climes, and where I live you can literally observe stuff rusting from clean bright metal over night :(

Post me over a couple of complete R170 Body Sheels please ;)
 

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* Registered - Looking for an SLK
Fleet of bottom feeder W210's....
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156 Posts
I envy you guys in some States, 20 year old cars with no rust lol,
No no, we do get the same rust like you do!

594871


You don't see it? That's alright, I'll zoom in for you!

594872


No? OK, zoom in some more!

594874


See that? Wait here, I'll zoom in some more...

594875


Kinda blurry, but ok, I'll zoom in some more!

594876


Oh would you look at that? That's your rust!

Stop rusting my car, man!







🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣
 

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Premium Member 2002 R170 SLK V8 5.0
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5,144 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1,520 ·
Well, I thought it was almost the second week in April, woke up to this ..............................

Taken from our back view ....



So this = more Brine and Salt all over our roads, and I'm back driving Mel to work again in the van ;)

Welding that 100% needed Rear Subframe out is done both sides now, left side ....





Before I fire the Subframe back in tomorrow morning I will do these 2 areas as they will be easier rather than bashing my head on Subframe 🤣

Left ....



Right ....



Then once the S/F is back in maybe before close of play today, maybe tomorrow early doors, I will rebuild that lower L shape (lip) along the back edge of the rear Floor-pans in their left and right corners, some of which will be tied in to the inner sills and done from inside the Car ;)

The Jacking Point and outer Sill areas can then be done from the side of the Car up on the lift without knocking dents in ma heed ;)

I am keeping all the Cardboard Templates, just in case I ever develop a memory loss and decide to do any of this Welding on another R170 :ROFLMAO:

Onwards .....................
 
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