[Avel Du]

SLKWorld proudly announces the inaugural display of the silver arrows in Inverinate.

Next week we take on these boys:

 

[Squishband]

I do so like a little catch-up. X

 

[Dave2302]

So do I, I have it on a lot of food

 

[Windinmyhair]

So do I, I have it on a lot of food

Ah, TK to the Max

 

[Dave2302]

Dave Hybrid Shifter 2.0 is getting closer but no bloomin Cigar yet ....





The biggest issue there now is going to be trimming and fixing the Leather Gear-stick Gaiter around it all so it is nice and neat and "how one would expect it to be in ones Mercedes-Benz don'tcha know" 🤣

The other option is to abandon the W204 Display idea and just use an illuminated Push Button for the Modes mounted here ....



If I could find a wee oblong Momentary Push Button to match the little Airbag Off Light on the right hand side I think I might well take that option, certainly haven't ruled it out yet

Time to take a break from the Shifter now and go get my paint brush out again down the Garage / Paint Booth Softlee Softlee with this particular Monkey

This Shifter sub project is not yet at the "yee-ha light up that fat boy Ceeegar" stage, but it is getting closer, and I don't wanna screw it up now and then have to cut out yet another ally top plate. This is currently top plate # 3

Methinks the final trimming of the Shifters ally top plate and final mounting height for the Gear Indicator / Mode Switch will not be possible until the Shifter is actually installed in the car, and that's not gonna happen until after I've installed 7G and stuck some miles on it in S mode using the original Shifter, so we all know for sure it's actually gonna work out OK

Another issue has surfaced regarding my Paddle Shifters, the Tiptronic on this later Shifter Module won't work with my Paddles being hard wired as the stock R170 Shifter Module does (Earth Pulse based). That now means to reinstate my Paddles I will have to set up a simple Body CAN Bus and use that for all the Steering Wheel functions on my Paddles and Android

I suppose that's no bad thing for possible future mods to the Car, but yet another sub-project within the grand scheme of the 7G project

All I can say is no one said this was gonna be easy, and there is very good reason that it appears no-one else has documented successfully stuffing a 7G up an R170 / Crossfire yet

TBC ......................................

 

[Squishband]

“Red pen, red pen, all hail the Red Pen 🙏🏻“

 

[nemiro]

I will be integrating paddles from a W205 steering wheel. It will go through my RIB board. The steering wheel speaks LIN-bus, and that has to be processed, and put out on the CAN bus. Fun stuff. I think I know how to make it work with the 722.6, and if it works there, I would imagine it will work on the 722.9, as well. MB seems to be pretty good about keeping configuration management on their CAN messages across the platforms.

 

[Dave2302]

Thanks Neil,

Yeah, I'm using an R171 Steering Wheel and a C Class MRM / Clockspring so I got some extra cores through the Steering Column, to hard wire the Switches and Paddles as there is no Body CAN.

With a D Enable Module from Chris and wired direct to the contacts in the R170 Shifter my Paddles have worked flawlessly with the 722.6 Trans for the past few years

It was just a bit of a kick in the nuts that it won't work with the Hybrid Shifters S Class set up, I was hoping that ones Tippy Switches would be drop to earth same as R170 but hell no, that woulda made it way too easy eh

 

[nemiro]

Of course not! Engineers have got to get paid, and they don't get paid by leaving well enough alone!

 

[nemiro]

BTW, which clockspring are you using currently? I figured out how to use the R170 clockspring, but more wires to pass through would be great.

 

[Dave2302]

Part Number 203 460 01 49 has 9 pin plug, I think after the Yellow Airbag Plug and the SAS there was something like 4 - 5 spare Cores so one is Earth and that feeds Horn Microswitches, a return to the Horn Relay, then Paddle + and Paddle - and Steering Wheel buttons were converted to resistance based using earth return to SWC1 on Android, so currently I have one spare core.

It fits pretty well, can only use 2 of the 3 self tappy screws, and one hole has to be slightly elongated, but the way it fits in the Column Jacket it hasn't caused any issues etc.

If I have to go for another full CAN Bus type I may have to carry out surgery, but that said I may be able to get a pair through to the Steering Wheel Module for CAN based Switching and just retain the Horn Microswitches as Earth Switched to avoid having to rewire the Horn

All in all it's gonna be a bloomin' faff whichever way I go about it, but now I've had paddles for 3 years I'm not losing 'em

 

[nemiro]

I might grab one of those. OTOH, the RIB will allow me to use the existing ground and horn wires to feed the LIN bus on the steering wheel (picking up a ground (earth) through the column, instead of the separate ground wire). The RIB will decode all of the steering wheel button presses, including horn. A relay on the RIB will actuate the horn. Arrows and other pushes for the Android radio and the RD display. CAN bus for the paddles.

 

[CL770]

Dave

You should be able to keep your existing steering wheel set-up (there's no need to change the clockspring). The Mercedes paddle shifters use a separate can id (to the shifter) to send their signal to the EGS52 & VGSX. You could keep Chris's existing paddle shift module and just feed it's D+/D- outputs to your new Adruino module (for the mode display). The Arduino could then output the the D+/D- canbus signals. I've done some testing with Chris and the paddle shifter signals are: Can Id 232, data byte 0. Up = 0x01, Down = 0x02.

 

[Dave2302]

You could keep Chris's existing paddle shift module and just feed it's D+/D- outputs to your new Adruino module (for the mode display). The Arduino could then output the the D+/D- canbus signals.

Thank You ............

That may be very good news, I did wonder about this
Clockspring was already swapped for one with more cores when I first got the Car and installed my Android with R171 Steering Wheel, then an R171 S / Wheel with Paddles came up and I fitted that
I'll clarify some stuff with you in our convo, my Car doesn't use Chris's regular Paddle Conversion ...................

I had already had upgraded my clockspring when I first got the Car and did the Android Install with an R171 S / Wheel. I had extra cores so the Buttons work the Android which uses resistance based switching, and I also had 2 spares through to wire the Paddles to which drop to earth when pressed.

Speak soon

 

[CL770]

That setup can also work, you'll just need to connect the the two wires that "drop to earth when pressed" to two of the digital inputs on the Arduino. The two paddles at once issue, and only working while in Drive can be sorted out in the software. If you had Chris's normal setup the software could be much simpler, with your setup it's just a bit more complex, but you still only need each of the paddles to provide a ground to an input on the Arduino.

 

[Dave2302]

I just had to go into Kyle so I took our AMG W212 .................

Having thrashed out some more info on how we are gonna use the Arduino to send the Paddles CAN broadcast I decided to play .........................

The 7G in the E Class has the AMG Programming option

I discovered that when in S or M mode if you pull both paddles at the same time it reverts back to engine start mode i.e. Eco which is like the later version of Comfort

Pulling and holding plus or minus has no effect i.e it doesn't revert to D or drop to the lowest gear it can handle, pah that's pant's then, that Lambo Huracan did, went from 5th to 2nd if ya yanked and held it, then took off like wot a scalded puss cat does 🙃

The 7G going in the R170 if in 1 or 2 Manual etc and push and hold tippy stick + does actually revert to Auto D again, obviously not tried that one on a hold downshift yet, I can but hope .............................

Now y'all with 7G Cars can go paddle yer own and see wot it duz

 

[Dave2302]

Pulling and holding plus or minus has no effect i.e it doesn't revert to D or drop to the lowest gear it can handle, pah that's pant's then, that Lambo Huracan did, went from 5th to 2nd if ya yanked and held it, then took off like wot a scalded puss cat does 🙃

I tried that on my S Class yesterday, 722.6 with EGS 52, that one will drop into the lowest gear if - is pulled and held, and go back to D from a lower gear if + is pulled and held

I learned some new tricks

 

[Dave2302]

At bloomin last ....



It's just arrived obviously was on the slooooooooow boat

This is the wee OLED Display for displaying Mode and Gear Indication, I'm hoping to build this into the cluster between the middle top of the Fuel and Temp Gauges

This is 0.49" Display, I'm actually wondering if I shouldn't have gone to the next size up which is 0.69" , will see what it looks like when it's working before attempting to install in the Cluster

It will display two characters so C,S,M and A, and next P, R, N, D, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, also + and -

 

[ndevonn]

… Dave …
stick with the smaller display
shall save you 0.01g and thoroughly improve your mpg.

anywayz
its about 12mm so much larger than those alphabet indicators in the typical cluster right??

 

[Dave2302]

My fuel economy is actually noticeably better than the V6, because I used to drive that foot to the floor everywhere, this V8 is too darned quick for that, although if I do drive it in anger it sups very well

anywayz
its about 12mm so much larger than those alphabet indicators in the typical cluster right??

Actually, I think the actual displayed characters are only going to be 4 - 6 mm high ..........

clickable:-



.......... but I wont know what size the characters are until I get it working, basically I don't want it to look out of place with either noticeably larger or smaller characters

Will be using the display inverted, i.e. black characters on white background and with creative use of filter and LED Bulbs to backlight the existing LCD Displays it should hopefully look pretty good.

If I don't get it to look right I will go to plan B which is to mount the wee Display down on the Centre Console near the Gearstick