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**Premium Member '02 R170 SLK V8 5.0 & '00 SLK320
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6,036 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1,982 ·
Especially as most of today was planned to be working on my Discovery ;)

BTW Len, congrats, you just tipped my thread over to 100 pages :)
 

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**Premium Member '02 R170 SLK V8 5.0 & '00 SLK320
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6,036 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1,984 ·
To be fair they did send us 2 letters, one a month ago and one last week as reminder ;)
I had written it in my Diary, just hadn't turned the page over to Wednesday 🤣

Thing is this, if they didn't replace the ageing poles and one came down in a high wind I'd be moaning as well ;)

So Mel has now announced she has decided not to go to Inverness Saturday, so I haven't got to take her ........................

Happy Dayz, extra day on the Discovery :)
 

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**Premium Member '02 R170 SLK V8 5.0 & '00 SLK320
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6,036 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1,985 ·
OK, a small "Coffee Break" update and some DIY Tips ;)
:)


So remember I mentioned I am yet to fit the Track Bar to the Steering, so I did that this morning.
This procedure is only any good if your vehicle is not scrubbing Tyres, mine isn't (y)
;)


See the red I I chalk marks on the Tyres Identifying a particular piece of tread, turn each Wheel so these marks are in the centre line of your CV Joints / Wheels (then if you accidentally turn one of the Wheels you can return to your Datum easily)
;)
....

Firstly before undoing anything relating to the Track Bar, measure between the 2 edges of the marked Treads in my case 56" exactly, which I chalked on the left tyre in case I forgot ....





Now prepare your new Track Bar, I always very carefully remove the wee Spring Clip on the Rubber [email protected] Covers on each Swivel Joint and add a little extra grease, then carefully refit the Spring Clip, also strip down the Adjusting mechanism and copiously Copperslip all threads, reassemble and make sure the reverse thread and the regular thread are screwed in exactly the same number of turns ;) An SLK / lot of cars will have threaded Track Rod Ends each end, but yeah use Copperslip ;)
;)




Now fit the Track Bar Joints and tighten both Swivel Joint Taper Pin Nuts ....





Now, simply use the 24mm Hex Adjuster to adjust the Rod Length to give you exactly the same distance between the two marked Tyre Treads ....

Job's a good un :D :D :D
:)


Yes I do have Laser Tracking Gauges, and I will double check it after road test, but I'll bet a pound to a pinch of coo pat that it will be bang on (y)
;)


I use this method on all Vehicles, provided they are not scrubbing Tyres
;)


HTH
:)


 

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**Premium Member '02 R170 SLK V8 5.0 & '00 SLK320
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6,036 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1,986 · (Edited)
Disco Update from close of play yesterday ...................

The (correct and matching) Left Headlamp arrived yesterday, so I fitted that ;) ....





Shame the last Clear Indicator Lamp for the left side hasn't arrived yet, (hopefully later today) ;)

I buffed the welding and painted the repaired area with Epoxy Primer (non porous) :)

Refitted the rear Anti-Rollbar as well ....



4 new Bump Stops fitted all round :) ....



Back to the Numpty Mechanics :( :( :(

Some total KJ has removed the Chassis Cross-member under the Transfer Gearbox presumably when the Engine and Trans got replaced, and OK so 4 outta 8 M8 Bolts snapped off in the Chassis Brackets ............... What did the aforementioned KJ do, just left that Cross-member off :mad:
So I bought a good used one, gave it a coat of Satin Black ....



What really annoys me is that if these Bolts do snap off in their captive Nuts it takes well under a half hour to sort it out and is obviously chargeable to a customer as a part of the job .................

Get an 8mm diameter Punch and a 4 lb Club Hammer, hit the broken bit of bolt upwards, and the tiny spot welds on the captive nuts snap, fish them out through the Brackets gap with a magnet ....



Using the Cross-member as a template, cut 2 pieces of 18 gauge Steel and drill 2 M8 holes, tack weld a couple of M8 Nuts on and slide em into the Chassis Bracket, Copperslip eight off M8 Bolts with Washers and refit the bleedin' Cross-member ;) SIMPLES !! ....





How bloody easy was that ............. Rocket science it is not !! Rant over ;)

Out on road test in a whiley, I got some errands to run, then get her back on the lift later today and start on the Left Front Axle side :) ............

Driveshaft / Axle Seal, I'm also going to hopefully get the right side CV Boot done this weekend and will fit both the new front Brake Calipers, (left one is still slightly sticky).

They gotta come off to do the jobs both sides :) I'll make a call on whether I fit the new Mintex Discs and Pads when the Discs are off, will leave the old ones if they look like they'll see the next 8 months out, then fit new ones at just before MOT time ;)

I know MOT Testers, even my buddy likes to see some work has been done prior to the Test :D :D :D

L8rs ..................
 

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**Premium Member '02 R170 SLK V8 5.0 & '00 SLK320
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6,036 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1,987 · (Edited)
Nuvver update ..............

Whoever was working on the Discovery has now peed me right off :(
Absolute no nothing total moron bodge artist :(

So basically his inept idiocy cost me a few extra hours yesterday and has meant that although I have done that Driveshaft Seal I will likely have to do that job again next weekend ..............

If I didn't need my lift this week, and also likely need to use the Discovery, as I don't have another "Workshop Overalls" DD then I would have left that side in bits whilst awaiting a good used Half Shaft ...........

I've done the job, also decided to change the Brakes too, back of Disc was scored (see later on) ...............

First off I stripped off the whole Brakes and Hub / Bearing assy in order to draw the CV Joint and Half Shaft assy out ....



It was at this point that I noticed the Hub Bearing assembly had been changed recently and also the CV Boot hmmmmmmm ok that's no bad thing ;)
After cleaning it up, I pop out the Seal, and fit a well greased new one ....



Now is where it got me totally confused and so I had to go Googling pictures to confirm my suspicion ....



You see that round ring near the CV Boot, it is designed to flick water, mud and other excrementopoop out of the way so it doesn't damage the Seal, but there it was loose and sliding up and down on the machined surface of the Shaft ?????????????????????

My confusion arises because I have never worked this far in on the Disco 2 / Range Rover P38 design of Axle before ;)

So is the Seal designed to run on the machined surface of the shaft ? (No) After much googling I come up with the definitive answers to this and the questions below ;)

Is the crud flipper on the wrong way around ? (No)

Is the crud flipper designed to be a tight press fit on that machined Shaft surface, and not like a sossidge up an alleyway ? (YES) 😭

So, this disc thingy, if I refit it as is it will move around and screw up the Seal, also because it has a "loose fit gap" that I can see daylight though, (around 5 thou " all round it), between it and the Shaft Oil will leak out through said gap , so here's wot I tried which may at least stop it peeing oil out for a week .............. I carefully put a ring of Silicon Sealant around the surgically cleaned surface on the shaft at CV boot end, then put Loctite "Stud and Bearing Fit" gloooo" around the rest of the machined surface and inside the muck thrower Discamabob thingy, and slid it down onto the shaft surface, wiped off the excess Silicon and Loctite each end and then left it well alone vertically in the Vice for a couple of hours ;)

It appears to be set tight, so I've refitted it, but it is really too far out by about 3 - 5 mm, so don't know if there's enough tolerance where the Seal lip runs, also don't know if it will come loose again etc etc so I found and ordered a good used Half-shaft last evening. Hopefully I might get it this month (that's another story) !!
If it's not leaking by next weekend I will leave whilst I do the other jobs, or until it does, whichever occurs first ;)

I don't hold out much hope for it :(

Here it is all back together ....



All new Bolts :) ....





At least I'm now getting a dab hand at stripping these down and I know all the Bolts will come out with no hassle when I gotta do it again :)

Now, why did this hack me off, well simple ....................

Firstly it had been driven a while with the Wheel bearing so bad that the back face of the Disc had been rubbing on the Caliper Carrier,and the CV Boot was torn, that makes the Driver an ass hat ;)

Hence I changed the front Brakes, also although not dangerous, I have ordered a new Caliper Carrier

Second, the numpty "mechanic" who fitted the new Bearing must have bashed that ring off to do the CV Boot instead of just removing the CV from the Shaft, which is how y'all supposed to do the job DOH :(
But anyways, OK so surely he must have known it would leak Oil as it was now so bloody loose on the Shaft ......................
Nah, probably not :rolleyes:

Anyways, I'll get the CV Boot on the right side done today.

So I'll tell y'all what it is here, whenever I buy a new to me Car, I always find a bunch of jobs to do to get it up to my (high) standards, nor, (a lot of times), am I happy with the way it has been "worked" on, especially as this one was obviously repaired by our local KJ Mechanics, and I think I know which one as this one is so bad :(

However that said, this will be a real nice example of a "workhorse" D2 once I've finished fettling it back to it's former glory and the best bit is, unlike a Mercedes the parts are nice and cheap and plenty available. :)

TTFN :)
 

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*Registered
2010 SLK350
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237 Posts
The so called 'mechanics' I find around, really are not mechanical engineers but more just fitters, ie they remove faulty items and refit new, and if there is a problem with refitting it ie broken bolt, snapped fixing bracket etc etc, they don't know what to do to make it right (as they are not engineers) and then just bodge it. That and the fact that they cannot be bothered to do it correctly and do not have the patience!! Good to see you doing things right (y)
 

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**Premium Member '02 R170 SLK V8 5.0 & '00 SLK320
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6,036 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1,990 ·
Thanks for the comments, cheers Guys :)

Well, so I ordered that Half Shaft last night, and this morning a spare Front Axle Seal, Caliper Carrier and a packet of those Spring Brake Hose U clips as there is one of those missing too, Brake Pipe cable tied into it's Chassis Bracket :rolleyes:

Then I took it out for a 32 mile run up to Cluanie and back, and got it on the lift to do the right side CV Boot and Brakes ........................

Pleased to report that so far the Loctite has held that "disc muck flinger spreader doohickey centrifugal cleansing device" on the left Half-shaft and it must be far enough onto it's boss to enter the seal because there is not a drop of Diff Oil anywhere ;)
That'll do for now, so onto the other side ...................

Pretty uneventful but I've had enough for today, I will bleed the new Caliper and stuff the Wheel back on in the morning ................

The piccies can do the talking ....















If I get lucky the Clear left front Indicator might turn up tomorrow it's only about a week later than the others :rolleyes:

I need Beer'S and Hot Tub :)
 

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**Premium Member '02 R170 SLK V8 5.0 & '00 SLK320
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6,036 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1,991 · (Edited)
Back on the Disco this morning, finished off by bleeding the Brakes and refitting the front Wheel, Brakes are now bedded in and superb after another extended road test :)

So in between other jobs, I managed to take care of some cosmetic work, went round and touched in a load of small scrapey scratches, looks much nicer now :)

On any 4X4 with the spare Wheel mounted on the back it is always a good idea to actually take it off and Copperslip the Studs threads every year, the Bracket was a bit scabby grotty but solid, as they usually are, so I took it off, wire wheeled it and gave it a couple of good coats of Zinc Etch Primer before a few heavy coats of Satin Black, then did a bit more cleaning inside it :)

I'm still waiting on a couple of parts, gonna get narky with these 2 sellers soon, they are taking the proverbial, both parts should have been here by 3rd July, I just wanna finish it and get back on my other projects ;)





Dinner calling :)
 

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**Premium Member '02 R170 SLK V8 5.0 & '00 SLK320
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6,036 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1,992 ·
An R170 SLK 320 is coming in shortly for a Roof diagnosis and fix :)

First job this morning, the Fuel Tank "support cradle / bash plate" like most is well past it's "scrap by" date ....................

Not wishing to pay double for the same flimsy mild steel affair I bought a nicely made, well fitting and much thicker hot dip Galvanised item for less than half the price of the OE Landy effort .............





Well impressed by the guys at Braith-Speed, great service, very helpful and don't mind a good technical "Land Rover Blether" on the phone :)

Also (Shhhhhhhhhhhh), there is no sign of any Oil from my "Ahem cough cough" temporary repair on that left front Half-shaft Seal job :)

Hopefully my Clear left front Indicator will arrive today, it is winding me up having one orange lens when all the others are now clear ;)

I might take the front A Bar and Bumper off it later, get all that lot realigned and fabricate the offset front Tow Ball hitchamabob ;)

Is anyone else sick and tired of hearing about F**[email protected] every 10 minutes on the Radio / TV ??????????????
If this was an English pro Motorsport Driver who had come second in a world event I doubt he / she would even get a mention :mad:
Pah, it was blatantly obvious to me even at the start of the tournament that naff all would be coming home :ROFLMAO:

L8r's
 

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Also (Shhhhhhhhhhhh), there is no sign of any Oil from my "Ahem cough cough" temporary repair on that left front Half-shaft Seal job :)
Reminds me of the oil repair I ma-- I mean, found, when I did the motor mounts on my 335d.

601343


Some hack mechanic -- who definitely is NOT me -- cracked the oil pan and slathered on jb weld puddy....of the metal variant, not the plastic one. That is to say, that was definitely not me.

On one hand, I understand the hack mechanic's reluctance to fix this proper like, because that means dropping the subframe and unbolting the transmission.....but on other hand, shame on this stupid mechanic for going this route! If only he had the proper foresight!

As it is, I'll likely just send it like this. The hack mechanic repairs are holding for now, so I'll keep an eye on it......:unsure:
 

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2010 SLK350
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237 Posts
Hopefully my Clear left front Indicator will arrive today, it is winding me up having one orange lens when all the others are now clear ;)

I might take the front A Bar and Bumper off it later, get all that lot realigned and fabricate the offset front Tow Ball hitchamabob ;)

Is anyone else sick and tired of hearing about F**[email protected] every 10 minutes on the Radio / TV ??????????????
If this was an English pro Motorsport Driver who had come second in a world event I doubt he / she would even get a mention :mad:
Pah, it was blatantly obvious to me even at the start of the tournament that naff all would be coming home :ROFLMAO:
OCD kicking in again Dave, I wouldn't have changed the indicator until I had both.........:rolleyes:

And it's about time the A Bar got sorted, surprised it took this long actually 🥴

And as for football, no enjoyed every minute of it as all sport/motorsport is good, you have to have hope in life and now looking forward to the Olympics! (Have to look forward to something thesedays!!!!!!!)

Nearly there with the Disco now, and will make a great work truck (y)
 

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**Premium Member '02 R170 SLK V8 5.0 & '00 SLK320
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6,036 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1,995 ·
:
Some hack mechanic -- who definitely is NOT me -- cracked the oil pan
:ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:

They are made of eggshells those BMW Pans ..............

Don't ask me how I found that one out, needless to say that the same repair was effected and off it went back to it's owner, who was blissfully unaware and sold the car after around 2 years ;)

I was 19 at the time ;)

Re the F**[email protected] .............. Yeah sure I hoped they'd win, (but if I was a gambler I would have bet they wouldn't), I'm just sick of all the :censored emoji: surrounding the whole affair ;)
 

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**Premium Member '02 R170 SLK V8 5.0 & '00 SLK320
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6,036 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1,999 ·
And it's about time the A Bar got sorted, surprised it took this long actually
(y) (y) (y)

So, this is all your fault :ROFLMAO: .................................

To be fair I knew it was gonna be a bigger pain in the butt job than a simple re-alignment, the A Bar was offset to the left but almost level, the Spot Lamps Wiring was a rats nest of Scotchlocks, a minging looking Relay just hanging behind the left Headlamp and un-fused Wiring connected direct to the Battery :eek: Also the left side of the front Bumper was low and the right side might need adjusting down a tad, plus I wanted to remove the front Towing Eye and fabricate an offset left side Tow Ball Bracket !!

Anyhow, as all the urgent repairs like Brakes, Oil leaks, CV Boot, Welding etc are now done, I got started ;)
Here is as far as I got last night :-

Front end stripped ....



Started fabrication of the Front Tow Ball Bracket, now got to bung the A Bar on temporarily and mark the correct Length / Angle to weld on the Tow-ball Mounting Plate, weld that on, paint the whole chebang then it can all get re-assembled and lined up ....



Some of the Rats Nest



I'm out some of today and also got a PITA customers job in to do, so might not get back to this today :(

Seller is sending another Clear left Indicator out, "lost in post" ........................

Over and out ...........................
 

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237 Posts
How is it my fault Dave.....I only pointed out the obvious, ;) and I knew that you wouldn't be able to leave as is....and as it happens with the wiring, it's a good job you didn't leave it! (y)

Always amazes me why people can't just do things properly, and ignorance isn't an excuse.......and a little bit of knowledge can sometimes be dangerous!

Good work Dave, keep it up, as always a pleasure to follow your work :cool:
 
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