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SLK 230 Roof issues

7K views 38 replies 7 participants last post by  efair 
#1 ·
My SLK 230 stopped opening all the way. When performing the roof opening procedure, the trunk does fold back, and the roof does detach from the windshield and move back, however when it comes time for the roof to fold down, it stops and doesn't do anything.

As seen at the link below, it gets stuck on step number 4.

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/eu...io_roof_VR.pdf

I have already tried to replace the sensor behind the passenger seat to see if that would fix it, but it didn't.

Any suggestions?
 
#2 ·
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#4 ·
Thank you for the reply Tim.

The hydraulic cylinders in the trunk are new, while the others I am not sure of. They appear to be working as the car top does detach and start to move backwards into the trunk, however stops when its time to lower it down. The fluid level is filled to the max.
 
#5 ·
Steve,

I had not tried your link before my initial reply. I did after reading your response, and it did not work for me. When you say that the roof will detach and "move back", how far back before it stops? Do you still hear the pump running? Is something jamming the hinges? Have you lubed them lately?

http://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-ge...-seals-lithium-grease-your-joints-hinges.html

I get to the Fort Myers/Cape Coral area on business at least monthly. Also have a home in Port Charlotte. Have you signed up for the October 10th SLK picnic in Lakeland?

http://www.slkworld.com/u-s-florida/263322-fall-florida-slk-group-picnic-meet-10-10-15-a.html

Tim
 
#6 ·
It moves back to the point where its almost near a 90 degree angle. Basically to behind the seat, and stops. I checked the flips to see if anything is causing it to stop, and it doesn't appear that anything is in the way. As for as lubrication goes, I am unsure as I just got the car off someone from craigslist.

When I bought the car, it was first leaking fluid out of the hydraulics (trunk, passenger side), so I replaced that and everything worked again. However a day later another hydraulic went out (trunk driver side), and I took it to a guy to work on and that's when the problem started, after the new one was put in. I don't think that has anything to do with it, as that hydraulic operates how it's supposed to and there is no more leaking at all.

If I put the car in manual mode, and lower the roof, and then switch it back to automatic to try to bring the roof back up, the trunk opens, but the roof doesn't go up.
 
#7 ·
Shortly after we purchased out 1999 SLK, the driver side trunk cylinder blew. Removed both trunk cylinders and had them rebuilt. They are self bleeding, but it took some time for that to take place. We (my son and I) had to help it along manually for a number of cycles before it worked on its own. The same thing on another SLK we assisted with. Perhaps that is the issue with yours.
 
#19 ·
I had the same problem. The trunk fully open switch wouldn't maintain contact after the trunk opened. The trunk would make initial contact but the trunk would "slip back" in the closed direction just enough to prevent the switch from indicating the trunk was fully open. I wrapped some material around the contact lever so that it was about a half inch larger in diameter. So far it has worked perfectly ever since.
I tried this, and it didn't work. When I did this it made it so the roof didn't detach.
 
#9 ·
I am sure it worked by that number of cycles. Our trunk lid would hardly raise up a few inches at first. Very slowly at that. On others we have had to help lift the roof from the windshield. If you get the back glass vertical,my hen stop the process, does it fall (back or front) after a short wait? Have you released the pressure from the pump, or made sure the pressure valve is shut?
 
#14 ·
I have a very similar problem. When I can try to lower the top. The locking latch on the windscreen unlocks. Then the trunk/boot lid opens (very slowly). And that's it. And when I try to reverse/raise the top from that position nothing happens. The trunk/boot lid stays open and I need to manually close it.

2 problems I'm trying to solve before I take out all the cylinders to rebuild. Are there is a leak that seems to be coming from the locking hydraulic cylinder, but there is only fluid coming out leaking on to the back window with the top down. It doesn't leak at all (even when opening it under power with the hydraulic pump) in the closed position. I rebuilt that cylinder but I wondering if there is a leak on the locking side that has yet to receive pressure (I lock it manually) .
The other problem I have is the locks/microswitches for the front of the trunk/boot won't lock (show closed on the microswitch). Unless I disconnect the rear cylinders at the bottom, and reconnect them. There is a cable attached to the bottom of the cylinders that allows them to unlock but won't lock them.
I'll post anything I learn on here. I learned that if the locks I was referring to are not locked/closed the rear side windows don't work.
 
#15 ·
It's unusual that the roof stops mid-stroke. A few things I can think of:

- Perhaps the boot-lid-fully-raised circuit is opening. It should stay closed once the lid is at the apex. Have a helper stand behind the car and ensure it stays at the apex with their hand and see if the roof continues operating normally. Be careful because the clearance roof-to-lid is not that great.

- Perhaps the roof-latched-to-windshield circuit is shorting and closing. This would be a wiring fault.

- Try fully *raising* the roof, manually latching it to the windshield, and closing the boot manually, and finally press the switch forward to bring the windows up. Then see if normal operation resumes.
 
#16 ·
In my case I tried pushing down on the corners (and I weight 300 pounds) It didn't cause the locks to latch.
One thing in my case though. The trunk/boot lid needs to be held open (about 3 inches) to lower and raise the top. It does not stay open all the way. There is about 3 inches of slack.
 
#18 · (Edited)
I had the same problem. The trunk fully open switch wouldn't maintain contact after the trunk opened. The trunk would make initial contact but the trunk would "slip back" in the closed direction just enough to prevent the switch from indicating the trunk was fully open. I wrapped some material around the contact lever so that it was about a half inch larger in diameter. So far it has worked perfectly ever since.
Steve,
If the switch for the roof flashes when the roof stops moving, ddelcorejr is correct.
or it may be a wire that has frayed that runs along a hinge in the roof.
http://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-class-diy/32728-i-fixed-my-roof.html
 
#20 ·
I volunteer Tim and his son (Ichris93)(when he gets back from his trip) for a road trip to visit Steve.
Or they can fix it at the picnic in October! :D :D
 
#23 ·
Yes, rear windows go up and down.

Windows go up, trunk pops up, top unlatches, goes back a little and then stops. Switch to take down top is still lit red after it stops.

do you know what "microswitches" are the ones he mentioned?

roof-latched-to-windshield circuit and boot-lid-fully-raised circuit???

 
#24 ·
#26 ·
Which switch exactly are you replacing?

S69/2 and S69/3 are "roof latched to windshield" switches, they are wired in series in a single circuit and provide ground only when both switches are closed.

S69/9 is "boot lid fully raised".

Given your light remains red, you should move the roof to the point of failure and sanity-check all of the circuits in the diagram you posted.

Do you have a wiring diagram and a check light? If so, it's pretty easy to do.
 
#27 ·
I replaced the roof sensors and the one above the windshield on the passenger side, and the one behind the passenger seat. Still not working. (S69/1, S69/2, S69/3, S69/11)

That leaves me down to the 4 sensors in the trunk that haven't been replaced.

"Given your light remains red, you should move the roof to the point of failure and sanity-check all of the circuits in the diagram you posted."

Not sure how to do this.
 
#28 ·
Hi Steve. efair posted this

Attach a test lamp to battery + and probe the following MFCU pins to sanity test their function (if test light illuminates, then "function" is asserted):

S69/1 "roof closed" switch (in top of right A pillar): pin 32 GNBK;
S69/2 & S69/3 "roof locked" (right & left rotary tumbler are in series) pin 30 GNGY;
S69/7 & S69/8 "lid down" (Left & right) are in series: pin 37 BUYE;
S69/9 "lid open" (right rear crner): pin 52 BUYE;
S69/10 "luggage cover extended": pin 54 GYVT;
S69/11 roof open (starboard near quarter window): pin 33 GYPK;
S69/12 trunk closed lid/rotary tumbler/trunk lamp switch (insures nobody is putting groceries in the trunk) pin 69 BUGY;
S84 roof switch w/integral lamp: pin 28 WHVT & 29 GNVT

For example if pin 32 lights the test lamp the MFCU thinks "yes the roof is closed"
 
#30 ·
#31 ·
part 35 in diagram
 

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#33 ·
no but see my post above yours
 
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