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Premium Member 2005 SLK55 AMG; 2005 SLK350
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Do not use O-rings to repairs these hydraulic cylinders... The nitrile u-cups seals are better than the factory and should never fail again.
I'm curious why you say this - there are a lot of cylinders out there rebuilt with orings, and I've seen nothing on this site regarding their failures. I'm not really arguing against - a cup seal is more true to the original design - but why the poo- pooing of the original oring repair?
 

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I'm curious why you say this - there are a lot of cylinders out there rebuilt with orings, and I've seen nothing on this site regarding their failures. I'm not really arguing against - a cup seal is more true to the original design - but why the poo- pooing of the original oring repair?
Given the choice, I would (and did) use cup seals, simply because they are a better design, and I would rather not go thru that exercise again!! I had to have the cup seals manufactured, coz we dont have them here!
 

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Hi,
Just moved back to US from UK. Where can I find your in-car hydraulic cylinder repair info?
Thanks
Slik
 

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Super Moderator UK SLK 55 AMG 2007
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25,490 Posts
Hi,
Just moved back to US from UK. Where can I find your in-car hydraulic cylinder repair info?
Thanks
Slik
Are you asking a particular member?
Best to quote them if so.
Quote button under every post.

I thought it was within the 18 pages of this thread.
 

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Hi Avel,

Apologies for my lack of protocol knowledge, still a newbie.

I am looking for info on rebuilding the cylinder in the Trunk passenger side in front of the CD changer,
I had heard it could be done in-car. All I can find and people send me is how to do the front headliner locking latch cylinders, which I don't need.

Regards Slik
 

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Premium Member 2001 SLK200K, 2001 SLK320
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1,491 Posts
Hi Avel,

Apologies for my lack of protocol knowledge, still a newbie.

I am looking for info on rebuilding the cylinder in the Trunk passenger side in front of the CD changer,
I had heard it could be done in-car. All I can find and people send me is how to do the front headliner locking latch cylinders, which I don't need.

Regards Slik
A few people say that's it's nigh on impossible to rebuild those two in situ as well. Looks to be too tight for space to me but I've got big hands :)

You might find it to be a lot easier to pull them out - watch KLAUS'S PLAYLIST - Chapter Four being the one that is most relevant to you but watch all if you have a spare couple of hours.

HTH
 

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Super Moderator UK SLK 55 AMG 2007
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25,490 Posts
Hi Avel,

Apologies for my lack of protocol knowledge, still a newbie.

I am looking for info on rebuilding the cylinder in the Trunk passenger side in front of the CD changer,
I had heard it could be done in-car. All I can find and people send me is how to do the front headliner locking latch cylinders, which I don't need.

Regards Slik

I don't recall it being done in situ, but you never know.


The experts will chip in:

@Mn car guy
@efair
@stu32
@savcom
@Turdo2
@Padgett
@Australian
@Dave2302
 

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This shows the detail of the trunk rebuild toward the end of the string. I did all cylinders but managed to kill one - the new cap / seal would not stay in. Ended up buying one rebuilt from a rebuilder rather than dealer.

Tricky work but doable.

https://www.benzworld.org/forums/r170-slk-class/1638473-slk-top-cylinder-rebuild-guide-cut.html

Not clear to me what exactly your question is... releasing hydraulic pressure? Holding the trunk open? getting the cylinder out? Rebuilding the cylinder?

Pelican Parts has a guide with photos to removing from the trunk cylinder: https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Mercedes-SLK230/101-BODY-Vario_Roof_Hydraulic_Cylinder_ID_and_Replacement/101-BODY-Vario_Roof_Hydraulic_Cylinder_ID_and_Replacement.htm

Hope these help.
 

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If you had to do them again would you guys remove the three forward cylinders for DIY repair or leave them in the car and just unbolt them for access? Thanks,

George
 

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Registered 2005 SLK350
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113 Posts
I didn't have much luck with rebuilding the rear cylinders myself, the front went OK. The DIY cylinder rebuild kits are dicey at best. There's a company that sells warrantied re-manufactured cylinders for a great price. They had all 5 in stock. Just mail your old cylinders back to them after the replacement for a substantial core charge refund. That being said, I'd recommend replacing all 5 of them at once to eliminate repeat cylinder replacements for the remaining ones. I sure wish I had. It's not a matter IF the other cylinders will fail. It's a matter of WHEN. Let me know if you need more info. -Dave
 

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I didn't have much luck with rebuilding the rear cylinders myself, the front went OK. The DIY cylinder rebuild kits are dicey at best. There's a company that sells warrantied re-manufactured cylinders for a great price. They had all 5 in stock. Just mail your old cylinders back to them after the replacement for a substantial core charge refund. That being said, I'd recommend replacing all 5 of them at once to eliminate repeat cylinder replacements for the remaining ones. I sure wish I had. It's not a matter IF the other cylinders will fail. It's a matter of WHEN. Let me know if you need more info. -Dave
The consensus seems to be that the rear trunk lid cylinders might be best to send out so that's what I will do but I am going to try the front three myself. I'm just trying to decide if I should take them all the way out of the car and rebuild them on a bench or loosen them in the car with the lines attached and rebuild them still attached.

George
 

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Registered 2005 SLK350
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113 Posts
The consensus seems to be that the rear trunk lid cylinders might be best to send out so that's what I will do but I am going to try the front three myself. I'm just trying to decide if I should take them all the way out of the car and rebuild them on a bench or loosen them in the car with the lines attached and rebuild them still attached.

George
I have a portable bench with a small vice that I pulled beside the car and left the hoses connected.
 

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I have a portable bench with a small vice that I pulled beside the car and left the hoses connected.
I "rebuilt" the fwd latch cylinder first, and a few years later the two roof actuators, due to leaking. I kept the hoses connected as well. I just didn't want to re-rig them all the way back to the pump. I have not had to do the trunk lid actuators. By rebuilt, I mean I used the O ring kit that I found via this site. The kit saved the trouble of sourcing the rings, the instructions worked for me and a small bench next to the car was good enough to get it done..
A few more years later, I ended up pulling the pump out for cleaning and trouble shooting. After pulling all the trunk lining a few times now and after seeing how the lines really run, are removed and re seated, it might not be that bad to pull the actuators all the way out, if you are taking the trunk lining out anyway. I am still glad I did those three cylinders at that time while still connected because it minimized work.
 
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