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FYI, this pic shows what I'm doing, which is my best interpretation of the instructions...
big screwdriver through the holes of the U to turn...
can't get the vise tight enough so the actuator doesn't turn...
So what do I need to do to get this out?
 

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Super Moderator UK SLK 55 AMG 2007
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Premium Member 2005 SLK55 AMG; 2005 SLK350
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I put my shop press on wheels for this very problem. I jack up the rear of the car, remove the wheel, and my press will roll just close enough. To pieces of quarter-sawn oak, with the ram in between.
 

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I put my shop press on wheels for this very problem. I jack up the rear of the car, remove the wheel, and my press will roll just close enough. To pieces of quarter-sawn oak, with the ram in between.
I don't have a press, but I'm trying to imagine on how to jack up the vehicle and remove the left side tires would help me get this main lift out. Can I completely remove the whole main lift and maybe bring it to a shop and press it out? Do I need to bleed the system afterward?
 

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Premium Member 2005 SLK55 AMG; 2005 SLK350
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My technique is for repairing the cylinder in place without completely removing the cylinder and lines from the car. If you remove the two pins that secure the cylinder to the car, but don't remove the lines, there is only a foot of slack in the lines to work with, right? And you have to counter-hold the shaft while you remove the yoke, right? Well, what if the yoke is too tight? You need something strong to squeeze it, right? How about a 20 ton shop press? So the next challenge is to get the press close enough - so add wheels and some wood blocks to get the press to the right height... But then you notice the rear tire and wheel are in the way ... so jack the rear of the car up and remove it - now the press will reach.

The point is - you need the strength of the press to counter-hold the shaft... and getting the press to the shaft presents some challenges.
 

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My technique is for repairing the cylinder in place without completely removing the cylinder and lines from the car. If you remove the two pins that secure the cylinder to the car, but don't remove the lines, there is only a foot of slack in the lines to work with, right? And you have to counter-hold the shaft while you remove the yoke, right? Well, what if the yoke is too tight? You need something strong to squeeze it, right? How about a 20 ton shop press? So the next challenge is to get the press close enough - so add wheels and some wood blocks to get the press to the right height... But then you notice the rear tire and wheel are in the way ... so jack the rear of the car up and remove it - now the press will reach.

The point is - you need the strength of the press to counter-hold the shaft... and getting the press to the shaft presents some challenges.
you're absolute right!
 

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FYI, this pic shows what I'm doing, which is my best interpretation of the instructions...
big screwdriver through the holes of the U to turn...
can't get the vise tight enough so the actuator doesn't turn...



Is it set up like that for it to come out? Turn it counter clockwise?
 

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Premium Member 2005 SLK55 AMG; 2005 SLK350
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If the vise isn't tight enough to hold it, try using a different species of wood, or a different materiel besides wood, and try tightening the vise with a pipe or whatever. Or substitute a shop press for the vise.
 

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If the vise isn't tight enough to hold it, try using a different species of wood, or a different materiel besides wood, and try tightening the vise with a pipe or whatever. Or substitute a shop press for the vise.
I finally got it to work very easy process from the help of Efair and Avel Du in the forum.

so far so good no leak.
 

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Hood Latch Cylinder

Hi Guys


I see a lot of kits available for O-rings for the hydraulic cylinders. What about the nitrile seals immeadiately below the white plastic guide? When I opened mine, the seal was crumbled. Where are you getting these?


Regards
 

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Super Moderator UK SLK 55 AMG 2007
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Premium Member 2005 SLK55 AMG; 2005 SLK350
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Hi Guys


I see a lot of kits available for O-rings for the hydraulic cylinders. What about the nitrile seals immeadiately below the white plastic guide? When I opened mine, the seal was crumbled. Where are you getting these?


Regards
Picture please - do you mean the cup seal? Most people r replace those with o rings
 

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Yes, I see that a lot of people are using O-rings. My concern is the longevity of the O-ring. The cup seal took 21 years to leak. I would hate to redo this job again in 5 years time. Also, I would have to order either the cup seal orthe O-rings in from the USA, so I would rather get the correct cup seal.
 

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Premium Member 2005 SLK55 AMG; 2005 SLK350
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4,604 Posts
Yes, I see that a lot of people are using O-rings. My concern is the longevity of the O-ring. The cup seal took 21 years to leak. I would hate to redo this job again in 5 years time. Also, I would have to order either the cup seal orthe O-rings in from the USA, so I would rather get the correct cup seal.
I think someone here did find a source for the cup seal but I don't have a link, sorry. It would be good to know how long the o rings are lasting but no effort has been made this far to track them. If you find and replace yours let us know.
 

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Registered 2002 SLK 230 R170
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355 Posts
Take a look at - https://slk-links.neocities.org/Links.html

There is a Link to - "R170 SLK Roof Cylinder's Rebuild Guide with Cut-Away Diagrams" - About a third of the way down page

It has details about -
Latch Cylinder Rebuild Guide, Top Cylinder Rebuild Guide & Trunk Cylinder Rebuild Guide. With Highly Detailed Diagrams

Part of my "WEB SITE OF SLK LINKS" Where you can find Part Numbers for your car and Illustrated Details of how assemblies go together + links to Video's of How to Do it, & Much More :grin:
 
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