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Registered 2005 SLK350
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And if this was the issue, why would the trunk lid close OK? Could o ring pieces be clogging the passages in the pump or the solenoid maybe?
I don't think you have a clog. All 5 cylinders require a varied amount of force to open or close any given panel. As the pressure diminishes the "hard to open/close" panels stop working at all while the easier ones (truck lid, gravity helps it too) still move, albeit slower.
 

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Brass relief screw now out and lower O ring is in fact missing. The picture in the other thread seem to show a new lower O ring installed and it quoted a # 60 replacement . Picture makes it look a little bigger that the race, but I'll head off to Lowes and see what they have. Probably not the right material for the MB fluid, but at least I'll learn if this is the fix, or not.
I didn't see a lot of junk/O ring pieces in the hole, but maybe it all flushed in to the reservoir, which did have a lot of junk the two times I took it off and refilled the system.
Thanks for this tip and I'll let the forum know how it works after I find an O ring.
 

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Registered 2005 SLK350
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Brass relief screw now out and lower O ring is in fact missing. The picture in the other thread seem to show a new lower O ring installed and it quoted a # 60 replacement . Picture makes it look a little bigger that the race, but I'll head off to Lowes and see what they have. Probably not the right material for the MB fluid, but at least I'll learn if this is the fix, or not.
I didn't see a lot of junk/O ring pieces in the hole, but maybe it all flushed in to the reservoir, which did have a lot of junk the two times I took it off and refilled the system.
Thanks for this tip and I'll let the forum know how it works after I find an O ring.
Bingo!!! Put a little grease or vasoline on the bleed screw, especially on the O-rings. It'll make the reinstallation a lot easier.

The problem with most DIYers, shops and dealerships alike is that they'll condemn the pump and install a new or rebuilt one, which would come with new bleed valve O-rings installed. That's a several thousand dollar needless pill to swallow.

If I was a bettin' man I'd say you're going to be a happy camper after the test...
 

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Bingo!!! Put a little grease or vasoline on the bleed screw, especially on the O-rings. It'll make the reinstallation a lot easier.

The problem with most DIYers, shops and dealerships alike is that they'll condemn the pump and install a new or rebuilt one, which would come with new bleed valve O-rings installed. That's a several thousand dollar needless pill to swallow.

If I was a bettin' man I'd say you're going to be a happy camper after the test...

Undy… YES! I am a happy man? A 23 cent O ring at ACE and all is well again. I can't thank you enough for pointing me to this fix and that other thread. I thought I had looked at them all.
Three notes: 1) I think I need to look for a ring that might be of more resistive material that a standard plumber ring. ACE had some "VITRON" rings labeled as resistive to fuels and chemicals, but not quite the right size.
2) I ended up using a #6 : 1/16" thick, OD 1/4", ID 1/8". Per measurements I think it should be 1.5mm thick, OD 6mm, ID 3.5mm, so real close. Any good sources?
3) There is a small ball bearing at the bottom of the hole for the relief valve. Don't let that ooze its way out.


Trunk opens, roof folds and trunk shuts. Works the other way too. Amazing. I think I'll flush and refill he pump again since everything is opened up and the fluid is still dirtier than I think it should be.
Thanks again! SLK World saves the day, once more.
 

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Registered 2005 SLK350
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113 Posts
Undy… YES! I am a happy man? A 23 cent O ring at ACE and all is well again. I can't thank you enough for pointing me to this fix and that other thread. I thought I had looked at them all.
Three notes: 1) I think I need to look for a ring that might be of more resistive material that a standard plumber ring. ACE had some "VITRON" rings labeled as resistive to fuels and chemicals, but not quite the right size.
2) I ended up using a #6 : 1/16" thick, OD 1/4", ID 1/8". Per measurements I think it should be 1.5mm thick, OD 6mm, ID 3.5mm, so real close. Any good sources?
3) There is a small ball bearing at the bottom of the hole for the relief valve. Don't let that ooze its way out.


Trunk opens, roof folds and trunk shuts. Works the other way too. Amazing. I think I'll flush and refill he pump again since everything is opened up and the fluid is still dirtier than I think it should be.
Thanks again! SLK World saves the day, once more.

Glad it worked out for you!!
 

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Pump O-rings Sources

I found these O-rings options online. Thank you for the tip. I will get this replaced.

1.4mm O-ring Kit O rings Rubber Gasket, Material: NBR, Inner Diameter:3.2mm
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10x-NBR-ID-1-2-1-7-1-8-2-17-2-5-2-8-3/32838072725.html?spm=a2g0s.13010208.99999999.259.5ecd3c00CJ16Zg

Danco 10-Pack 1/4-in x 1/16-in Rubber Faucet O-Ring, Item # 198990 Model # 96774, #60 O-Ring (AS568B# 006)
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Danco-10-Pack-1-4-in-x-1-16-in-Rubber-Faucet-O-Ring/3380794

Danco 0.12 in. Dia. Rubber O-Ring 1 pkItem no. 48469 | 35774B, Buna-Nitrile Rubber (NBR)
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/plumbing/faucet-and-faucet-repair/o-rings/48469

https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Viton-O-Ring-60-Rifle-Extractor-Enhancer-Also-for-1911-Grip-Screws-AS568A-006/281827160560
4 Viton O-Ring #60 Rifle Extractor Enhancer Also for 1911 Grip Screws AS568A-006

382 Piece O-Ring Assortment (smallest one in pack)
https://www.harborfreight.com/382-piece-o-ring-assortment-67554.html
 

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Cylinder seals

One of the posts I read call for a 16mm O.D. x 9mm I.D. x 4.5mm thick PU cup seal for the R170 SLK230 top overhead latch cylinder . I found 16mm O.D. x 9mm I.D. x 4.0mm PU cup seal on eBay located here sold by oringsandmore. Anybody try this option as it appears to be closer to initial design. I am not sure about the material type with the CHF11S fluid. I also read on the forum here and sourced 15mm x 22mm x 5mm PU Cup seals that should work to repair the main top cylinder seals.

******* Anyone find the correct internal piston seal sizes? ********

*********** What is the trunk lid PU Cup seal size? *************


The attached picture is my guess of what the piston rod seal should look like but I have not taken mine apart yet to inspect.

I wish someone would post all of the seal sizes. I could help source them. Maybe my local hydraulic shop can help find some as well.

Also I have found many PU cup seal sizes available reasonably priced on Alibaba and oringsandmore just for the latch and top cylinder seal.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hydraulic-U...c/163108107906 (Size:9x16x4)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/UN-UNS-9x15x8-9x16x4-9x16x6-9x16x8-9x19x6-9x19x8-9-5-14-2-5-Ring-Gasket-Scraper/32904085451.html?spm=a2g0s.13010208.99999999.268.78823c00NbI2Ee (Size:9x16x4)

Hydraulic U Cup Metric 9mm ID x 16mm OD x 4mm Seal Price for 1 pc - OringsandMore (SKU:MSUC9164*) must include * in part number for search

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/UN-UNS-14x30x5-14x30x6-15x20x6-15x20x8-15x22x5-15x22x6-15x22x7-15x22x8-15x23x5-15x23x5-7-15x23x10-Ring-Gasket/32890453028.html?spm=a2g0s.13010208.99999999.259.40633c006wf1HZ (Size:15x22x5)
 

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Seal Sizes

One of the posts I read call for a 16mm O.D. x 9mm I.D. x 4.5mm thick PU cup seal for the R170 SLK230 top overhead latch cylinder . I found 16mm O.D. x 9mm I.D. x 4.0mm PU cup seal on eBay located here sold by oringsandmore. Anybody try this option as it appears to be closer to initial design. I am not sure about the material type with the CHF11S fluid. I also read on the forum here and sourced 15mm x 22mm x 5mm PU Cup seals that should work to repair the main top cylinder seals.

******* Anyone find the correct internal piston seal sizes? ********

*********** What is the trunk lid PU Cup seal size? *************


The attached picture is my guess of what the piston rod seal should look like but I have not taken mine apart yet to inspect.

I wish someone would post all of the seal sizes. I could help source them. Maybe my local hydraulic shop can help find some as well.

Also I have found many PU cup seal sizes available reasonably priced on Alibaba and oringsandmore just for the latch and top cylinder seal.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hydraulic-U...c/163108107906 (Size:9x16x4)

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/UN-UNS-9x15x8-9x16x4-9x16x6-9x16x8-9x19x6-9x19x8-9-5-14-2-5-Ring-Gasket-Scraper/32904085451.html?spm=a2g0s.13010208.99999999.268.78823c00NbI2Ee (Size:9x16x4)

Hydraulic U Cup Metric 9mm ID x 16mm OD x 4mm Seal Price for 1 pc - OringsandMore (SKU:MSUC9164*) must include * in part number for search

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/UN-UNS-14x30x5-14x30x6-15x20x6-15x20x8-15x22x5-15x22x6-15x22x7-15x22x8-15x23x5-15x23x5-7-15x23x10-Ring-Gasket/32890453028.html?spm=a2g0s.13010208.99999999.259.40633c006wf1HZ (Size:15x22x5)
 

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Seals in Nitrile

Just found these seals in Nitrile

Main Cylinders: Nitrile U Cup 15mm ID x 22mm OD x 5mm Seal HT Price for 1 pc, $2.50
SKU: MSUN15225
Nitrile U Cup 15mm ID x 22mm OD x 5mm Seal HT Price for 1 pc - OringsandMore
Latch Cylinder: Nitrile U Cup 9mm ID x 16mm OD x 4mm Seal HT Price for 1 pc, $2.75

SKU:MSUN9164

Nitrile U Cup 9mm ID x 16mm OD x 4mm Seal HT Price for 1 pc - OringsandMore

Pump Relief Valve: Metric Buna O-rings 6 x 1.5mm Price for 50 pcs, $2.50 (need to have other verify if correct size)

SKU: 615MMB70

Metric Buna O-rings 6 x 1.5mm Price for 50 pcs - OringsandMore


$15 orders gets a free shipping. Need to find the other seal sizes for a full kit.
 

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Premium Member 2005 SLK55 AMG; 2005 SLK350
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@Fortified,

Awesome post - great information to have. Have you tried any of these? I'd love to hear some real-world experiences.

You mention using CHF-11S fluid, this isn't the recommended fluid for the top AFAIK. From what I've heard, it will work, but isn't the recommended fluid due to odors.
 

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Super Moderator UK SLK 55 AMG 2007
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Hi all. I recently bought this kit off eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/04-11-Mercedes-SLK-Convertible-Hydraulic-Cylinder-Repair-Kit-More-R171/281920871769?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

It took me about 5 or 6 hours doing it all nice and slow and to prevent from breaking any of the plastics, but I got it done.

My question is:
How long are these orings expected to last before they need replacing?
Not the answer you'd hope for.

Depends on so many factors that it is hard to say.
Number of cycles, weather, maint etc.


If they are good quality, at least 5-10 years, possibly much more.

Although we get requests/posts about replacing them, it is rare that same member repeats this replacement.
 

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.....If they are good quality, at least 5-10 years, possibly much more.

Although we get requests/posts about replacing them, it is rare that same member repeats this replacement.
Actually, that is exactly what I was looking for. A time frame is far better than a we don't know. I searched and searched and have not come across someone that had to replace them twice. That tells me they have at least survived a year or so.


The cycles/weather factor is perfectly understandable. :smile:
 

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Latch Cylinder Removal

Here are some pictures of how I took the latch cylinder apart. I really like these plastic ply bars I got on eBay for less than a $1. The retainer clip can be removed as the first step and I did it in 3 minutes with this cheap harbor freight tool. I picked on the on end of the clip to pull it out. I was albe to slowly rotate the clip in the groove as needed for the best angle. No side drilling hole of the is needed. There is about two feet of hose to work with once removed from the mechanism. Don’t forget to re-zip tie the sensor wire to the hydraulic lines.
 

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With the cars windows down I connected latch cylinder with cheap flexible concrete tying wire to a latch bolt I placed in the garage window frame. There I use a hammer to lightly tap the aluminum housing has soon with the arrow. This is needed because the white plastic seal is tight and cannot be simply removed with the strength of two hands. Once apart I found the dirty fluid inside the cylinder and a hardened seal on the rod. The cylinder seal which I did not remove or replace measured ID:? x OD 13.5mm x 1.9mm thick. The fault U cup seal read 9-16-4.5 2 MERKEL.
 

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The inside specialty work:

On a 2001 SLK230

The inside specialty work:

Plan A was to drill out the two roller staked dimples in the aluminum collar. I used a .120” drill bit and then hammered it off. Lesson here is it is best use a vise in a drill press unlike what I did with a hand drill which is difficult to get a good hole. I drilled too deep, not on center, and removed the side section of the shaft.

Plan B was to repair the removed metal by filling it in with JB Weld and they assemble with the special shaft collar I ground down with .38” flats to fit in between the clevis. I also ground the top of the shaft collar so the screw would fit in the relief groove of the cylinder rod. The shaft collar can be found at Home Depot for $0.68. This worked up to the point of assembling the cylinder rod (aluminum) back into the housing where the collar fell off from the rod breaking on the end from over drilling initially.

Plan C: Did not work

Plan D was grind down what was left of the little nub that holds the clevis. Drill and tap a M2.5 bolt. I did this by hand in the vise which again would have been best to have a drill press but I did not have one. I got lucky and drilled the hole straight. I would have liked to use a bigger size bolt due to the loads but I did not have another tap available and I took a chance. See attached pictures of how well it worked. I installed the better than new seal and then reassembled the cylinder. I found that installing the white plastic bushing was just as difficult to install as removing. I placed the C-clip ring on top of the bushing and they carefully with some very large pliers (or C-clamp) pressed the bushing back into the cylinder housing. I was going to use a new 5/8” internal retainer clip to make for easy assembly but my $4 Harbor Freight (Junk) retainer pliers could not do it so sadly I just reinstalled the cheap C-clip because I wanted my car back. I reassembled the mechanism which takes some though and careful finger dexterity. I refilled the pump reservoir to the full line. Said a few prayers and pulled the red button. Initial only the motor makes noise and nothing happens expect the trunk lid opens…. I tried a few more times and again no latch movement… I placed the manual hex wrench in to unlatch and that was it! The cylinder just needed to be primed or maybe get unstuck. I have done six full cycles on the top and it works flawlessly and now no leaks!

· * If someone gets the internal retainer clip to work share a picture.

· * Also would be nice to know the ID of the piston seal so that could be ordered and replaced when needed

· * See pictures of seals used

Note: It helped me to release the hydraulic pressure by turning the brass screw at the pump. Do not forget to re-tighten once everything is rebuilt.

Note: The collar is really stuck on the rod even with drilling. That is why I kept drilling. If done properly plan A should have worked.

Note: Once everything is reinstalled and working. This is the time to lightly oil all of the moving parts with the headliner off. The hydraulics move much faster after doing this and I am sure the pressure is reduced from the pump helping to reduce the wear on all of the seals.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Climax-1-4-in-Bore-Zinc-Plated-Mild-Steel-Set-Screw-Collar-C-025/203025014

Home Depot collar: Model # C-025 Internet #203025014
 

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Pump Washer Extraction

Here is how to save yourself an expensive trip to the dealer if you drop the non-magnetic pump fill washer or plug.

* Located the missing item with flash light in the dark abyss
* Clean vacuum very well
* Removed fasteners as needed to open the black plastic protective shell as needed to fit
vacuum hose in, this is where those ebay orange ply bars work well.
* Place end of vacuum hose near item
* Turn on vacuum and hear the sweet sound of the item in the hose
* Recover item

Note: Always run the pump with the plug installed. Otherwise fluid will come out and a big mess to clean up!
 

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Hydraulic pump fluid filler

Here is how to make a nearly free hydraulic pump fluid filler.

* Use 8oz vanilla bottle from the dollar tree
* 8 inches of ¼ inch tube
* Drill out hole in cap
* Hot glue on the top and bottom

It takes about 3oz of fluid from the bottom to the top fill on the pump reservoir

The reservoir fluid will drop about 1oz when replacing the latch seal
 

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