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OK I have read the repair section in the stickys section on how to repair the leaky cylinders and how to add fluid. But, I cant find any info on how to remove the front lock cylinder to repair it. I think it would be best if I got it out before I repair it. Dont want to mess it up too badly. So, if anyone knows how to get it out (with pics) if possible. Let me know . Thanks.
 

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OK I have read the repair section in the stickys section on how to repair the leaky cylinders and how to add fluid. But, I cant find any info on how to remove the front lock cylinder to repair it. I think it would be best if I got it out before I repair it. Dont want to mess it up too badly. So, if anyone knows how to get it out (with pics) if possible. Let me know . Thanks.

Might want to look at this thread . . .

http://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-class-diy/25392-roof-actuators-seal-fix.html

I also had a pretty extensive word document I was working on, but I had just stoped at pulling the cylinders . . .

Attached is a picture of the latch cylinder. It isn't too hard to get out, though it is a tight fit! You have to pull the three bolts to drop the triangular frame, then pull the e-clips/pivot pins out. You should then be good to remove the cylinder.

If you are going to pull the entire cylinder out, the hose path is the trickiest bit to deal with. Not impossibly hard, just take a lot of pictures and/or notes about every place the hoses pass through, zip tie or fasten so you can put them back the same way. There is one screw/clasp that is a real bear though behind the passenger's right shoulder where the hoses go through the roof's hinge joint.
 

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Thanks for the info. I am having to take the cylinder out to repair it. I never thought of hydraulics being in the top. Until I saw the leak . But I am sending it to Tophydraulics to be rebuilt. In order to do that I have to get it out and I didnt want to mess it up. I took it to shop and was quoted 600 for cylinder. Not including install. I cant handle that. Tophydraulics is better.
Thanks agian for the info its exactly what I need to get it out.
 

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. . . But I am sending it to Tophydraulics to be rebuilt. . . .
:tu::tu:


You might want to get them all done at the same time then. The latch is the hardest to thread through, then the roof cylinders and then the only trouble with the trunk cylinders is getting the rest of the panels and such out of the way! So you save some work doing them together, plus the down time in shipping. That is what I did. Klaus does very good work! Honestly, I never expect to have to work on any of the cylinders again! (Well, maybe if I still have the car in another 20 years . . . )

My only problem was in dealing with how the hydraulic hoses came down from the latch cylinder. There is a nearly impossible screw to loosen behind the passenger's right shoulder. That, and I didn't take as many pictures as I should have, particularly through the upper roof joint. I put a zip tie where it shouldn't have been apparently. It caught on the trim the first time I cycled the roof and it broke the long bladed portion on that piece. So, I had to replace that piece; which brought up one more issue . . .

While you are at it you might want to consider doing something with the headliner trim. As soon as you replace the headliner, the rest of the trim will look pretty bad! (And even worse if you replace one piece of trim out of the set!) So you might want to consider replacing them for about $150-$200, or if you can match the color (or just don't mind a different color/shade) paint the pieces for about $15-20.

Hope it works out well for you. :Beer:
 

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My son has his own upholstery shop so I am good to go there with the interior issues. I have already talked to him about that. Interior needed redoing anyways.
Ill take pics and post them when I start working on it. After Santa comes I will pull it into the shop and get started.
 

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I just did my top locking cylinder a few days ago! Actually it was a fun job! I didn't bother with pushing the white plastic retainer in, so I just drilled a hole to get the retaining ring out! The hardest part of the job for me was to seat that retaining ring back in... Took me a good 15 minutes... But disassembly took no more than 5 =) I used some Dynaliner in the places where potential squeaks may be. For example where hoses touch the roof and make a rattling noise when driving over bumps =) Also changed the rubber supports =) had to take off the whole roof =) But no it's finally done, fixed and the saved headliner with couple bubbles near the center hole is back in place! I can live with that =)
I'll get to my other two top ones when the weather gets a little warmer here in Houston =)
 

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I have today taken off the side trim in the trunk to get at the pump. I tried to put the top down and realized the fluid had all leaked out. And the top wont move. I need to add fluid. I need to know if there is an alternate fluid I can use. The MB shop is closed so I cant get any from them. Also do I need to bleed the system? How do I do that ? and how much do I put in? Where does it go ? I just need to get the top in position so I can remove the cylinder and lines . Rain is coming Monday and I am working outside. So dry is good. Any help appreciated.
 

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Take this advice for what it cost you but my roof has been working great for over a year using something different than the M-B fluid.

Not necessarily being a fan or a believer in 'proprietary' or manufacturer specific stuff, I refilled mine with Sea Star hydraulic steering fluid used in my boat's steering system. It is also 'proprietary' but the system instructions say transmission fluid be can be used in an emergency.
I wouldn't hesitate to use either in a pinch. It's not a jet engine, it's a hydraulic system. I might flush the system later after everything was rebuilt.

Sea Star fluid can be found at most boat dealers if there is one in your area.

Since you have the trunk liner out remove the gray steel brace that covers the pump. It'll make it a lot easier to fill the pump.


Edit:

Looked up the specs on Sea Star. Meets military spec H-5606G. Maybe it will work in a jet engine.lol

"MIL-H-5606G, MILITARY SPECIFICATION: HYDRAULIC FLUID, PETROLEUM BASE; AIRCRAFT, MISSILE, AND ORDNANCE (09 SEP 1994) [S/S BY MIL-PRF-5606H]., This specification describes the characteristics and provides the requirements for a petroleum base hydraulic fluid for use in the -54 Deg. C to +135 Deg. C temperature range (see 6.1). This fluid is identified by military symbol OHA and NATO Code No. H-515 (see 6.5)."
 

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I have today taken off the side trim in the trunk to get at the pump. I tried to put the top down and realized the fluid had all leaked out. And the top wont move. I need to add fluid. I need to know if there is an alternate fluid I can use. The MB shop is closed so I cant get any from them. Also do I need to bleed the system? How do I do that ? and how much do I put in? Where does it go ? I just need to get the top in position so I can remove the cylinder and lines . Rain is coming Monday and I am working outside. So dry is good. Any help appreciated.
Full fluid is a HUGE issue for the roof hydraulics! (You don't need to worry about it working on the cylinders though; you can raise/lower the roof manually. If you were closer I could give you what I have left, but it's not that expensive ($14/liter if I remember) and would be nice to have a little extra to top it off when you've been running a bit.
 

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