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Discussion Starter #3
It can be welded unless yours has been in a colision ?
No collision mate, just corrosion :frown:

Been to a local specialist Auto welder today and he said it's so bad he would not be able to sleep at night if he welded it.. I told him it was my wife's daily driver and he said if I loved her I need to replace the subframe..>:D He actually refused to weld it :surprise::surprise:

I should have taken pics when it was up on the ramps but I was a bit shocked TBH, it's basically holed and split on one side and corroded and holed on the other. He showed me what was supported by it and said worse case potentially the RHS rear wheel could collapse outwards. Also showed me brake pipes that need replacing...:frown:

I've been quoted some silly prices for s/h frames from greedy breakers (£330 from one company) and of course a new one from MB is almost £700 :surprise: and that's just for the frame!

(Is there a way of guaranteeing the frame would fit our car by the way?)

Fitting is around 8-10 hours, and it's not a DIY option for me :frown:

I fear Christmas could be cancelled >:D

:crying:
 

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No collision mate, just corrosion :frown:

Been to a local specialist Auto welder today and he said it's so bad he would not be able to sleep at night if he welded it.. I told him it was my wife's daily driver and he said if I loved her I need to replace the subframe..>:D He actually refused to weld it :surprise::surprise:

I should have taken pics when it was up on the ramps but I was a bit shocked TBH, it's basically holed and split on one side and corroded and holed on the other. He showed me what was supported by it and said worse case potentially the RHS rear wheel could collapse outwards. Also showed me brake pipes that need replacing...:frown:

I've been quoted some silly prices for s/h frames from greedy breakers (£330 from one company) and of course a new one from MB is almost £700 :surprise: and that's just for the frame!

(Is there a way of guaranteeing the frame would fit our car by the way?)


Fitting is around 8-10 hours, and it's not a DIY option for me :frown:

I fear Christmas could be cancelled >:D

:crying:

Well go get second opinion which is free !
Take some photos while on ramp and post them here .

Depends how bad it can be welded if access is good etc
Or may have to be removed and welded .

Failing that a new / second hand one req .

Temp welding can be an answer while you source a new axle etc

Rear brake pipes at back are an easy replacement as such but a little time consuming etc ive done a few .
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well go get second opinion which is free !
Take some photos while on ramp and post them here .

Depends how bad it can be welded if access is good etc
Or may have to be removed and welded .

Failing that a new / second hand one req .

Temp welding can be an answer while you source a new axle etc

Rear brake pipes at back are an easy replacement as such but a little time consuming etc ive done a few .
Thanks for the suggestions and advice, it's appreciated :grin:

I suppose I could get what would arguably be a fourth opinion, but when it's been failed by an MOT tester and then another two separate professionals tell me it's time to replace it - one of whom refused to weld it :surprise: I think I'd possibly be looking at the least safe option - I'm sure there will be someone who would have no hesitation taking my cash to weld it, but would it be right considering what I've been told/advised, and most importantly, safe?

I think its maybe time to bite the bullet and to consider my wife's safety above all else - she drives like Lewis Hamilton given the chance >:D

Everyone else on here - get your subframe checked when you can :wink:
 

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Thanks for the suggestions and advice, it's appreciated :grin:

I suppose I could get what would arguably be a fourth opinion, but when it's been failed by an MOT tester and then another two separate professionals tell me it's time to replace it - one of whom refused to weld it :surprise: I think I'd possibly be looking at the least safe option - I'm sure there will be someone who would have no hesitation taking my cash to weld it, but would it be right considering what I've been told/advised, and most importantly, safe?

I think its maybe time to bite the bullet and to consider my wife's safety above all else - she drives like Lewis Hamilton given the chance >:D

Everyone else on here - get your subframe checked when you can :wink:
No im saying get a second opinion of welding the chassis and photos
I have no doubt its corroded but its how far gone that needs to be seen .
And where its near / close to .

Properly welded and 3M body shutz after can last years .
Someones opinion can easily make things ten times worse than it actually is .

Sometimes a estimate for fixing an electrical fault can be £1000.00 as an example but taken elsewhere where someone has come across it before can just cost £150.00 !

It all depends how bad your corrosion has gone and without seeing it ...........?
 

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Replacing it with another will probably add some value when you sell the car, whereas welding it will raise some questions regarding general maintenance IMHO.

Tapatalking
 

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Replacing it with another will probably add some value when you sell the car, whereas welding it will raise some questions regarding general maintenance IMHO.

Tapatalking
But who examins the rear axle when purchasing a car ?
Most look at body work
Service history
Running of engine
And how she drives etc

Hell some are buying a car just because it has a certain set of alloys the rest is irrelevant .

As long as it has been done properly
Professionaly
Sealed
Will out last the rest of the chassis around it .

Besides a 2005 slk with new rear chassis supplied and fitted would cost circa £1400.00
Car value 171 1.8 with say 100.000 miles £4500.00 minus spending £1400.00

Welding becomes a reality and cheaper cost of ownership / running costs .
 

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I have a post somewhere about the same thing on my 171 2005. Mine failed the NCT (Mot). I had to get it welded on both sides because it was so bad.You could put your finger through it in one place. It passed the NCT on retest. I thought about getting the subframe replaced but it was just not worth it. I have since sold it and got a 172. It seems to be a design flaw because the axel holds water as the drain holes were drilled upwards which left a small ridge around the hole preventing the water getting away, thats just my opinion.
My advise - get it welded and sell it when it passes the mot.:wink:
 

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Yes all early cars will have the same problem, I have done one on the 350 we are selling, its a good 10 hours work to change.
They are very light and seem to rust badly.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Yeh saw that thanks Pat, wanted to source closer to home if possible..

Check with Dronsfields ... Mercedes-Benz Parts - Dronsfields, a Mercedes Breaker UK

They may be a safe bet ...
Yes been there Sean thanks, done all the searches using various such as Dronsfields, Partsgateway etc. Like I said earlier, some greedy breakers out there considering new part is £650 from Merc..:frown:

Awaiting pics of one from 60K breaking for front end crash damage. £140 delivered - more like it. Told guy I need to know it's fine 'underneath' ie above the frame when attached to car - the bit you can't see when in situ :nerd:

Thanks everyone for help and advice so far, whilst waiting over the holiday period I'm taking the advice of Delucas and getting a few more pro opinions on welding, but as I said in another post, the car is otherwise mint and selling on is not what my wife would want :crying: I'd rather cough up and get it right, replacing the subframe (and brake pipes whilst everything is off) and then waxoyling or sealing underneath woulld seem like the way to go.

Don't suppose the owners in Florida or SoCal have this problem, weather not quite the same as NE England...>:D

:wink:
 

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Yeh saw that thanks Pat, wanted to source closer to home if possible..



Yes been there Sean thanks, done all the searches using various such as Dronsfields, Partsgateway etc. Like I said earlier, some greedy breakers out there considering new part is £650 from Merc..:frown:

Awaiting pics of one from 60K breaking for front end crash damage. £140 delivered - more like it. Told guy I need to know it's fine 'underneath' ie above the frame when attached to car - the bit you can't see when in situ :nerd:

Thanks everyone for help and advice so far, whilst waiting over the holiday period I'm taking the advice of Delucas and getting a few more pro opinions on welding, but as I said in another post, the car is otherwise mint and selling on is not what my wife would want :crying: I'd rather cough up and get it right, replacing the subframe (and brake pipes whilst everything is off) and then waxoyling or sealing underneath woulld seem like the way to go.

Don't suppose the owners in Florida or SoCal have this problem, weather not quite the same as NE England...>:D

:wink:
Without actually seeing the state of the back axle if it can be repaired do it .
Carry on driving with fresh mot / rear axle repaired .
If at some stage a rear axle comes along mint / cheap buy it and fit it summer time or whenever .....coat it while on the shop floor ready to be installed at a later date .

Rear axle brake pipes are easy to fit with or without axle in place etc but a little time consuming
Done a forum members car this year . 👍
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Pics update....

I got to another recommended garage today and had a long discussion with the mechanic who says he can weld the damage, as well as manufacture and fit new brake pipes from copper for me. I can then source the subframe with no rush...

I took pics whilst under the ramps to show corrosion.

Delucas, these are for you :grin:


:wink:
 

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Delucas you need to empty your inbox - you can't receive pm's :wink:
Inbox empty

Dont look to bad think the yellow chalk marks makes it look worse ??

Is he going to weld in situ ?
Or remove axle frame and weld ?

Removing is better you get a better weld / finish and makes life easier but more expensive .
 

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Discussion Starter #18
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Dont look to bad think the yellow chalk marks makes it look worse ??

Is he going to weld in situ ?
Or remove axle frame and weld ?

Removing is better you get a better weld / finish and makes life easier but more expensive .
In situ.. after grinding/dremeling clean he'll be using plate metal and then undersealing.

Tried to pm you but system said your inbox was full?

:wink:
 

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In situ.. after grinding/dremeling clean he'll be using plate metal and then undersealing.

Tried to pm you but system said your inbox was full?

:wink:
Sounds and looks very bad, pull it out and change it.
Remember this holds all the rear geometry and the smallest bit out will eat tyres.
Anyone offering to weld that i would stay away from unless it was out the car on a bench cut out and on a jig and then it will cost.
 

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Looks like a relatively easy repair and if done by a competent welder / fabricator then it will be as strong as it's ever been.

I have been restoring classic cars continuously for over 30 years and have had to fabrcate entire sections of rusty subframes as replacements were no longer available and never had any problems afterwards. Some of these cars have been back on the road 20 years + and the repairs are still fine.

Like I said, a good welder / fabricator will repair that in a few hours without removing the subframe and if you inject it with cavity wax once completed that should preserve it long term.
 
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