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Discussion Starter #1
Welp, I hit exactly 170k miles and the supercharger appears to have gone out. BAS/ASR light and CE light came on and it's pretty noisy. Looks like I have some fluid splash from somewhere and my belt is getting cooked (could smell it in the cabin).

Here's a video:

Question: Should I have the Eaton rebuilt or just replace? I thought there was some rebuild kits available on-line. What would you guys recommend in this situation? Are there any decent repair kits available or no?
 

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Welp, I hit exactly 170k miles and the supercharger appears to have gone out. BAS/ASR light and CE light came on and it's pretty noisy. Looks like I have some fluid splash from somewhere and my belt is getting cooked (could smell it in the cabin).

Here's a video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=faew7d2GAlc

Question: Should I have the Eaton rebuilt or just replace? I thought there was some rebuild kits available on-line. What would you guys recommend in this situation? Are there any decent repair kits available or no?
These are Lysholm screw compressors (inventor, Alf Lysholm, maker, Eaton) and they run with very close tolerances. Rebuilding is eminently possible, as long as they are in working order. If they (like yours) have bearings that are worn down so they mesh the rotors, they may be beyond repair. Remachining the rotors to specs may even be impossible vithout adding material - a specialist job (precision milling and teflon coating will be needed. So, removing the compressor is neccessary as a first step, and depending on internal damage, it can be Schrott
and a rebuilt compressor may also be more expensive if your worn out compressor isn't rebuildable and can returned.

But a rebuild may be a smart thing to do if you a) are lucky and your own unit is rebuildable or b) can source a used, undamaged compressor for a good price. (I don't know what a rebuilt compressor is at your place, but if the cost is in the ballbark of the cost for a used compressor, a rebuild set and 4-6 hours of labor, it's decent.

The rebuild sets (see Ebay, there are several and other cars use the same compressor) have new bearings (needle rollers inside, roller bearings outside, new drive and the special lube oil that goes with it "for life". Skilled home mechanics can do this, ON A FUNCTIONAL UNIT! - if they have access to a hydraulic press for the inner bearings - it's not really hard or complicated, and with new parts and a worn compressor will be "like new" more or less.

If you get a warrantied preowned unit and don't rebuild, make sure you change oil in it, and even relubricate the needle bearings, to give it a sporting chance to survive.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Looks like a used SC on ebay is $400, having a hard time finding a refurb or rebuild kit (which sounds like I should not attempt). I do have a brand new bottle of AC Delco SC fluid which is a plus.

Getting quite a few codes, sure a few of these are tied to the actual problem and not relevant.

p1420
p1235
p0135
p0141
p0446
p0443
p1525
p0440
 

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Hopefully this may help .......

Getting quite a few codes, sure a few of these are tied to the actual problem and not relevant.

p1420 - Catalyst Temperature Sensor Failure
p1235 - Fuel Pump Control Out Of Range
p0135 - Heated O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
p0141 - Heated O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 2)
p0446 - Evap Emission Control System Vent Malfunction
p0443 - Evap Emission Control System Purge Control Circuit Malf.
p1525 - Air Bypass Valve System
p0440 - Evaporative Emission Control System Malfunction
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hey guys,

Sorry it's been so long since I worked on this. We got our first big snow in November and I had put her back in the garage.

I want to make sure that I am going the right direction with all of this (I know there are rebuilt SC's on the market and where to obtain one, but do not want to chase the wrong issue).

Car still has a CE light on and I put the code reader back on it and outstanding codes that need cleared are still...

P0440
Evaporative Emission System

P1525
Right adjustable camshaft timing solenoid right

P0443
Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve Circuit

P0446
Evaporative Emission System Vent Control Circuit

P0141
Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2

P0135
Oxygen Sensor Heater Bank 1 Sensor 1

P1235
No DTC definition for this one...

P1420
Air Pump Switchover Valve


Been reading up quite a bit on this issue today, have a good idea of what it might be (other than the SC) but I don't want to taint any opinion!!! Please let me know your thoughts once again.

Checking the SC connector for corrosion tonight, MAF and a few other items...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just going to ask since I did not get a response - could this be behavior of a faulty K40? Basing this on the amount of codes and sporadic behavior of the SC in the video. I honestly don't feel I can replace this SC myself (even if I had the rebuilt SC from ebay), and the closest MB repair shop is in SLC (200miles). Car would have to be hauled to Utah on a trailer.

I checked the MAF last night, and no oil buildup but cleaned it anyway. Also cleaned up and re-seated the SC connector.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well today took apart the K40 and someone had already soldered the point that goes bad and it looked fine. Of the five 15a fuses, one of them was blown so I replaced. Fired up car and same issue - made me remember that it is making a nice loud metal on metal whining sound.

Found instructions on Pelican for replacement. Should I just go ahead with this and replace? I already have a new bottle of AC Delco SC oil on hand and can order the two gaskets.

Used SC on Ebay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/97-04-Mercedes-R170-SLK230-C230-2-3L-Kompressor-Supercharger-1110900380-OEM-/123018285077?hash=item1ca4761015

Instructions:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Mercedes-SLK230/89-ENGINE-Supercharger_Removal/89-ENGINE-Supercharger_Removal.htm
 
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