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Discussion Starter #1
well i notcied when i first bought my slk230 used, the brake rotors have a pretty big lip on the edge, and i'd rather get some nice looking cross drilled & slotted rotors. i used search but nothing came up. anyway i used this site to find some r1concepts.com.
and the specs thing says, "1 pad pin" or "2 pad pin"
what does this mean?! im not familiar with brake stuff on vehicles, but pretty mechanically inclined then most when it comes to the engine. any help would be appreciated, i need to change these asap, i had a mechanic look at them a couple weeks ago and he said they cant be resurfaced =/
 

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Sadly Woolly has passed away
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I would imagine it means how many pins hold the pad into the caliper - should be fairly easy to check. The diagram below shows a pin, marked up as 'slide pin'.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ok well that helps a bunch, thank you! and i hope the pin things dont matter. because its a rotor, and all cars have a clamping type brake caliper right?
anyone else have an r170 that has changed their own rotors? i also would like to know how hard it really is.
 

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Very simple job. There are two torx bolts on the back side of the calipers, remove the rubber cap and remove the bolts. After you lift the caliper off the rotors there is a small set screw on the rotor, remove it. You will need a two pound hammer and a rag to get the rotor off the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i still do not know whether or not my rear caliper has one or 2 pins. do i pull wheel off and just look to see if their is 2 bolts and pins that come out?
 

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i still do not know whether or not my rear caliper has one or 2 pins. do i pull wheel off and just look to see if their is 2 bolts and pins that come out?
yes pull the wheel off and look to see how many pins you have.
also the rear calipers have mounting bolts not torx like the fronts. 2 bolts and hang the caliper out of the way try not to kink the brake line. then theres a small torx screw on the rotor to hold it in place. reomove it and the rotor should slide off. it may be hard to get off and req. a dead blow on the face to break it free.
as a last note your mechanic cant say the rotors cant be resurfaced until they are off and miked for thickness. unless they are visibly trashed call him out!
 

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Mercedes rotors are not supposed to be turned. There just isn't enough meat on them to make it worthwhile and new rotors are cheap enough. That being said, just because there is a lip on the rotor does not mean they have to be replaced. Measure the thickness as indicated above. If they are below minimum, then they need to be replaced.
 

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Mercedes rotors are not supposed to be turned. There just isn't enough meat on them to make it worthwhile and new rotors are cheap enough. That being said, just because there is a lip on the rotor does not mean they have to be replaced. Measure the thickness as indicated above. If they are below minimum, then they need to be replaced.
thats an incorrect statement. m/b policy is not to turn the rotors. i had mine miked and there was plenty to turn at 40k. as for being cheap its a matter of preference. 75+ per rotor or 8$ per rotor to get them turned. you decide
 

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Been driving Mercedes for 25 years and have never had to have rotors turned. Chances are that for the few extra miles you might get out of it, is it worth it? Also Mercedes rotors are Blanchard ground and no $8 shop is going to do the same. If the rotors are not warped or below specs, there is just no need to piss away several thousand miles worth of rotor by turning them. Just leave them alone and be on your merry way. Now if you drive a Chevy, that's another story. :)

Len
 

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in the 25 yrs you drove a benz did you ever check them ? or did you just let the m/b dealer do all the work for you and tell you they needed replacing. unless you are using full floating 2 piece composite rotors, your oem ductile iron rotors are no different than any chevy out there.
my rotors were precision ground inc the e brake side. cost was 8$ per rotor. at 40 k there was no warpage and slight wear patterns. so explain to me why i would pay for new rotors when the oems were fine to reuse.
as for grinding away thousands of miles the oem pads will wear grooves in the rotors. without smoothing them you will just wear the same grooves in the new pads. now your replaceing pads sooner instead of the rotors. either way i disagree with your theory
 

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in the 25 yrs you drove a benz did you ever check them ? or did you just let the m/b dealer do all the work for you and tell you they needed replacing. unless you are using full floating 2 piece composite rotors, your oem ductile iron rotors are no different than any chevy out there.
my rotors were precision ground inc the e brake side. cost was 8$ per rotor. at 40 k there was no warpage and slight wear patterns. so explain to me why i would pay for new rotors when the oems were fine to reuse.
as for grinding away thousands of miles the oem pads will wear grooves in the rotors. without smoothing them you will just wear the same grooves in the new pads. now your replaceing pads sooner instead of the rotors. either way i disagree with your theory
I do all my own service and my rotors get measured and checked at every A and B service. Front rotors on my 210 chassis are closing in on 80,000 miles and still within spec. Last set of pads got me 80,000 miles. The slight grooves in the rotor obviously had little effect on pad or rotor wear. I know that's not the same as the SLK, but my SLK only had 18,000 miles on it, so I don't know what I'll get out of them. I'll continue to do what works for me and obviously you will do the same. I just prefer to follow what the engineers at Mercedes have decided is best.

Len
 
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