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2011 SLK200/2004 SLK350
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Hi everyone,

So i ddnt use my car for 4 days, and the battery went dead. So i jump start it and it went fine. While im droving the car i noticed that the right front end of the roof is driping oil in my arms. And so i immediately went back home and observe what is going. The leak is not stopping it drips like 1 drop per sec. So i tried to open the roof and it did open but upon closing it the leak went overflowing like a water on a faucet. Then the left side started to leak as well. Now its still dripping but minimal.
Before this happened there are times when im opening the roof the latch wont release so i will close it a little bit then it will fully release.

What could be the cause of this? And the estimated cost before i go to a mechanic. Sorry, for im still new in slks and still learning stuffs and terms.
Thanks guys in advance!
 

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Hi everyone,

So i ddnt use my car for 4 days, and the battery went dead. So i jump start it and it went fine. While im droving the car i noticed that the right front end of the roof is driping oil in my arms. And so i immediately went back home and observe what is going. The leak is not stopping it drips like 1 drop per sec. So i tried to open the roof and it did open but upon closing it the leak went overflowing like a water on a faucet. Then the left side started to leak as well. Now its still dripping but minimal.
Before this happened there are times when im opening the roof the latch wont release so i will close it a little bit then it will fully release.

What could be the cause of this? And the estimated cost before i go to a mechanic. Sorry, for im still new in slks and still learning stuffs and terms.
Thanks guys in advance!
Use the search my friend , there are many theads on this.
 

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Registered 2006 SLK55 AMG
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Certainly a pain and frustrating issue. Looks like the seal on the ram is completely shoot, or the connector to the ram hydraulically is very loose. My 2006 SLK 55 AMG did the same thing, dripping that is, not flowing. Didn't do it when I bought it, but shortly after, showed it's ugly face. I took it to Mercedes dealer, had it completed for 1200.00. Up there in price, but they replaced both the rams for the latches on both sides. I'm sure it's doable yourself, if you want to pull the roof apart. Pretty sure you could find an import specialist, in your area that could do it cheaper, God knows Benz dealers are up there in rate. But at the end of the day, the oil dripping is gone! Good luck my friend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the reply guys.

When i noticed it, its only a few drops then i tried to open and close the roof upon closing it the oil suddenly overflowed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah ive searched and found out it might be the o ring but im not sure. The last time used it it was totally fine no sign of oil leaks. Then suddenly after 5 days of not using it. I take it out for a spin. Then noticed some oil drips on the driver side. I was surprised what could be the cause. Is there any methods or diy i can do to male sure whats wrong with it? Or should i just take it to MB or a dealer? Thanks in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just an update guys. Took it to a dealer and had it diagnosed. they said that the hydraulic ram for locking latch is leaking. They quoted me for $1300nzd including parts and labor.

My question is. Is the hydraulic ram the same as the front lock hydraulic cylinder? Coz i reckon it just needs rebuilding. By replacing the seal with an o ring. Or is it different and that i need to replace the whole lot?
 

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2005 SLK350
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Just an update guys. Took it to a dealer and had it diagnosed. they said that the hydraulic ram for locking latch is leaking. They quoted me for $1300nzd including parts and labor.

My question is. Is the hydraulic ram the same as the front lock hydraulic cylinder? Coz i reckon it just needs rebuilding. By replacing the seal with an o ring. Or is it different and that i need to replace the whole lot?
Same thing. Just needs to be rebuilt as detailed in other threads on this site. Get the seal kit off eBay and have a good independent shop do it for you as MB dealer will only replace with new. Cost will likely be a fraction of the dealer quote.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Same thing. Just needs to be rebuilt as detailed in other threads on this site. Get the seal kit off eBay and have a good independent shop do it for you as MB dealer will only replace with new. Cost will likely be a fraction of the dealer quote.
Thank you for your reply mchild. ive come up with 2 options.
1. Get an o-ring kit from e-bay. Which is cheaper but has risks in it.
2. I can order or send my hydraulic lock to TopHyrdaulics which will be more expensive considering im living in new zealand and i dont know how much shipping is going to cost me.

What will happen if small metal shavings got into the lock hydraulic. Is it risky? Or there is nothing to worry about for i will pop the piston out anyways?

I appreciate all the help guys.
 

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What will happen if small metal shavings got into the lock hydraulic. Is it risky? Or there is nothing to worry about for i will pop the piston out anyways?
The drilling that will create the potential for shavings is done in an area on the outer edge (at the top) of the cylinder. Once drilled, spray the area with brake clean to dissolve any leaked oil that might be holding shavings then use compressed air to blow away anything left and dry it. When pulling the plunger out of the cylinder the seal will also pull out debris (that may be left). With a little caution and proper procedure there should be no issues at all. This procedure has been successfully done by many DIY'ers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The drilling that will create the potential for shavings is done in an area on the outer edge (at the top) of the cylinder. Once drilled, spray the area with brake clean to dissolve any leaked oil that might be holding shavings then use compressed air to blow away anything left and dry it. When pulling the plunger out of the cylinder the seal will also pull out debris (that may be left). With a little caution and proper procedure there should be no issues at all. This procedure has been successfully done by many DIY'ers.
thanks for you help mchild. you've been very helpful. were planning to DIY it this week or next week so we might have some questions. Any tips or advice before and after doing it? i have some questions:

1. is it possible to do it when the roof is close? coz i reckon i lost so much fluid my vario wouldn't work, considering the boot is still pop-out. (does it still give pressure to my front cylinder?)

2.since, my cylinder is already leaking. will it leak more if we already remove the plunger out? is there anyway to lessen the pressure?

3. 04 11 Mercedes SLK 280 350 55 R171 Hydraulic Cylinder Roof Repair Kit with Picks | eBay

i suppose this is the right o ring that i need? but is it alright to use the oem seal again? coz im concern about the shipping and time. if i order in ebay it will take 2 weeks to arrive here and hope that it is complete and intact. but if i order in MB dealer i can do it straight away but will only last 5-10 years perhaps?

thank you so much for your help guys! any response will be greatly appreciated. cheers!:grin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Just an update guys. After months of research and weeks of waiting for the nitrile o-ring we finally did it yesterday. And yes! The seal was very bad! Half of the inside part was gone. No wonder it leaked like a water in the faucet before. And my reservoir was bone dry as well. So we filled 300ml (with a use of a syringe) of mercedes benz hydraulic oil, she was very thirsty. But now, she is at her best! The roof can hold up in any position w/o falling up or down.

Thanks for Gorhard for sending me how to remove the headliner. But the method that we did is a little different becuase we removed the headliner and rebuild the actuator when the roof is closed. Yes it can be done.. No need for manual opening of roof.

Thanks for all your replies as well! Ive attached some photos. Just so you can see how bad it was. Now im very happy about it. Easy DIY! Im not a mechanic but i manage to do it with a friend. But You can do it by yourself as long as you know what to do. Cost me $30nzd for the kit, $40nzd for the hydraulics oil. $150nzd for beers and labour for a helping friend. Total of $220nzd. Indy shop quoted me $1400. Its worth the try nothing to lose! ?
 

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This seems to be a common problem with the roof. Does anyone know what causes it or more inportantly how to prevent it?

I hope the DIY goes well for OP.
While researching the solution for the very same problem in my wife's '01 SL500 (R129), the explanation I kept running across is simply: the Sun. It seems the majority of the cars presented with the top latch actuator leak were from warm, sunny areas (So Cal, Arizona, Texas, etc.) and were subjected to the intense heat of the sun on a daily basis. Since the top latch actuator is right up at the top of the vehicle rather than hidden deep in the bowels of the chassis, they are more subjected to the sun's heat. Folks that parked their car outside were more prevalent than those who parked in a garage or under a cover.

So the simple answer for prevention is merely to park away from the sun as much as possible. As with any hydraulics, it's also a good idea to change the fluid occasionally to get rid of the built up contaminants.

BTW - The O-ring repair was simple, relatively inexpensive and so far (2 years now) has been very successful.

I love that the OP spent twice as much on beer for his buddy as he did for parts and oil! :laugh:

Jerry
 
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