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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,can someone let me know why my roof did not separate from the windcsreen after both all windows open after pulling back the button?
Thanks in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I just tried again,yes there's a slight rotation anticlockwise,then slight rotation clockwise,then stop.
 

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It should rotate about 180 degrees clockwise when unlatching, and 180 degrees counter clockwise when latching. I think it should turn roughly at the same time the boot lid is in motion. Is the lid moving at all?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The first thing to happen when the red button is pulled backwards is the trunk or boot opening up right? But in my case,it didn't happen.I opened the trunk after releasing the pressure then pushed the button and it closed meaning there's no problem with the trunk cylinders right?
 

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The first thing to happen when the red button is pulled backwards is the trunk or boot opening up right? But in my case,it didn't happen.I opened the trunk after releasing the pressure then pushed the button and it closed meaning there's no problem with the trunk cylinders right?
Assuming the roof was fully closed and latched previously (i.e. until red light extinguished), the first steps upon re-opening are: windows should first lower, then both the boot lid and front latch are pressurized on their "open" hydraulic circuits.


The fact your boot lid cylinders will lower your lid is a good sign, however there's more to it than just that.


Can you operate your roof with the button to either the opening or closing endpoint - to the point where the red light extinquishes?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi,YES,when opening all windows open,then can hear sound of pump and roof trying to open,when closing all windows close with the same sounds!
 

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Hi,YES,when opening all windows open,then can hear sound of pump and roof trying to open,when closing all windows close with the same sounds!

I have zero experience with roof issues on either of the cars I have owned but I from what you are telling me, I am thinking "if I was faced with what this is described as what would I do?"
This sounds to me like the roof latches on thewindshield header are not unlatching so is it possible to manually unlatch them through the bung hole using the tool provided and then see if it will go the rest of the way?
If this could be done and it goes the rest of the cycle then I would have to suspect the roof latches are not pressurizing properly or something is funky with the limits.
I would take a very careful shot at it.
Dave?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi Alex,thanks for joining in the discussion.I had the same idea as you,depressurize,unlatch,pressurize and even separated the roof from the meeting point of the windscreen,pulled the MAGIC red button but NOTHING happens!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Guys,since the mechanic is not too far from my house,i'm thinking of bringing the car for a scan to zoom in on the problem.Any other words of advice are most welcome ! Thanks a million!
 

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Hi,

I was going to suggest that you try what @Alex 3 said above, but I see that you did that and it didn't work :(

Make certain that he has SDS or he will not access the VR Module.

Go to the sticky Roof Diagnosis and make / print a note of the states that each Micro-Switch should be in at the various Roof Cycles, and compare to the "Actual Values" shown in the VR Controller one that is in the incorrect state reveals a Micro-Switch Fault :wink:

HTH. Cheers Dave
 

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Just beware that the roof module, once you get to it, can be somewhat of a black hole, often yielding no codes when there are pump, switch, aor solenoid failures. Best to take it to someone familiar with these roofs. They're not that complicated but do have a slight learning curve.
 

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Hi,

I was going to suggest that you try what @Alex 3 said above, but I see that you did that and it didn't work :(

Make certain that he has SDS or he will not access the VR Module.

Go to the sticky Roof Diagnosis and make / print a note of the states that each Micro-Switch should be in at the various Roof Cycles, and compare to the "Actual Values" shown in the VR Controller one that is in the incorrect state reveals a Micro-Switch Fault :wink:

HTH. Cheers Dave

I admit to missing that he had tried but now I have read it I am wondering was 180 rotation achieved with the tool? It won't take much under rotation of the latches to hang them up as I understand it.
 

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OK - that's good information. Obviously not SDS, but adequate (I prefer the switches to be clearly identifed by switch number).


I presume when the car was scanned that the roof was fully closed; and the first switch mentioned, "Vario Roof Closed", is S69/1, (in the top of the right A pillar); and the second switch mentioned, "Vario Roof Raised/Lowered", is S69/11 (on the right side near the outside of the roll bar).



I'm guessing you have a sticky switch S69/11. You should be able to see this switch. Try to operate it with your finger to see if you can hear and feel the switch opening and closing. As a second less likely possibility, you may have a wiring fault with this switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yes,the roof was fully closed cos the sky was turning grey & it rains almost every afternoon in this part of the world.So the two switches namely S69/1 & S69/11 are the culprits? Can they be repaired? I did checked S69/1 to see if there’s any clicking noise with a screwdriver & I heard there’s clicking.Did the same with S69/11 with a long screwdriver & there’s clicking.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The message says “both switches operate at the same time”,but how do you make them operate separately ?
 

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Hi,

What that message is telling you is that they ARE operated at the same time, when in fact they SHOULD NOT be :wink:

So as @efair correctly says either a switch is dud or wiring from it to VR Module ;)

I'm with efair that the likely culprit is the S69/11 having had untold intermittent grief with mine until I replaced it with a genuine MB one, mine had a broken plastic clip lug and was moving every now and then, which I could not see until I stripped off the Rollbar Cover (Rear Shelf) Trim Panel ;)

You can now either test these with your Screwdriver looking at Live Data on that machine, or SDS if that one won't give you Data, or strip off trims to get at the wiring and test them with a Multimeter, or test them at the VR Controller Wiring Plug, you may need to do both the latter if the Switches themselves are OK, to verify the Switches Wiring ;)

HTH, Cheers Dave
 
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