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Over the weekend I bought a 1999 slk230 sport. I pulled back on the console switch and the quarter windows went down and nothing else happened. Then the vario top did not operate and the console switch either stayed on if the car was running or it would blink slowly. I do not know if the trunk lid was lartched or not or if it released when the windows went down. I took out the inside trunk covers and found two switches that were not in place. I replaced them and put on a touch of silicon to hold them there and re-assembled everything. The trunk latches are still not actuating. I assume they are spring loaded for closure and mechanically released for opening. The latches seem to be held open. The manual cables are slack. What gives?
 

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How did you check that "the manual cables are slack"? You know the manual and Bowden cables are joined in the latch right? If the cable is truly slack and the latch won't" catch " when you push it in/down with a screwdriver then the latch is buggered... Try with the cylinder rams disconnected to be sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I removed the latch and bracket and turned it over looked. The manual cable doesn't seem to be the problem but the automatic actuator cable is taut and the lever was pulled over. What actuates that cable? Is it hydraulic or electro-mechanical or what. I don't know why it would not release.I did disconnect the battery for about 45 minutes to see if it would reset or release.... that did nothing.
 

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The Bowden cables are physically connected to the bottom of the cylinders, so they're indirectly controlled via hydraulics. The first thing that the cylinder should do upon extension - thanks to the slotted design of the bottom - is pull the cable taught (which releases the latches). The last thing the cylinder should do upon retraction is slacken the cable (which arms the latches).

If you really want to get a feel for how the cylinders, cables, and latches interact with one another, remove your key for safety and disconnect the yokes at the top of the rams from the tubular frame. Do this with a helper and thoughtfully... You can then feel the effect of the slotted design and observe the action at the latch by pushing down and pulling up on the yoke. This is easy to understand once you see it, not so easy to type.

The cables do have to be carefully adjusted (near the bottom of the cylinder) and the most important consideration is the "end play" as the cable is drawn taught. Not enough and you stress the cable and latch; too much and the latch won't open. It sounds like yours are too tight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'll work on that in a day or two. The hardest part of it is taking off all the plastic covers without tearing them up. Seems like the only way they could be too tight is if someone before me decided to fix it themselves and adjusted them.

And that seems doubly probable since neither of the two latches will catch. I don't see any other way that they would both fail to latch, except that someone adjusted them.
 

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Post a detailed description of exactly what state things are in, exactly what you do, and exactly what happens as a result - including all motion and all lights. And in both directions. The switches are common culprits, if the cycle to raise or lower your roof starts, the cables may be taught by design. Timing is very critical for diagnosing the mechanical components.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I discovered, after close scrutiny, that the final inch or so of retraction of the trunk lid hydraulic cylinders causes the bottom of the cylinder to slide upward in the mounting slot, thus slackening the the latch cable and also pulling the trunk lid down to latch. If the hydraulic cylinder is not the closing force, then the cable does not go slack and the deck lid does not latch. Just pushing down on the lid does not necessarily latch it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Today I took out both trunk side covers to expose all the roof cylinders and the pump....... again. BTW, when I manually release the trunk latches via the manual pull cables and then screw out the brass hex screw in the side of the pump to relieve pressure, the trunk lid is very hard to open to the rear. It squeaks and grabs as I pull it rearward, as though there is no lubricating hydraulic fluid in the cylinders at all. It is just as hard to close the trunk lid. To lift the cylinders upward in the lower slot, I had to use a bar clamp from the bottom of the slot up to the trunk lid arms. It should be easy to move, shouldn't it? I had to apply considerable clamp pressure and then it sort of jerked upwards.

Once I did this and the latch cables were slack, then the trunk lid could be closed and it latched shut. I tightened the brass pump screw, taped the luggage cover switch closed and the lighted console switch turned off. But then if I pushed the switch forward to try to close the quarter windows, the switch blinked slowly. If I pushed the switch forward twice in quick succession, the light did not come on, but nothing happened except I could hear a motor groaning and the interior light dimmed some.

That is where I am so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I did not detach the upper cylinder yokes from the tubular frame. I clamped from the lower slotted end of the cylinder to the frame arms. it would give some and then squeak and jerk a little. I did this until the cylinder ram was all the way down. We're talking about maybe an inch or so of actual total movement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Brass relief valve WAS open. I am suspecting that the pump has failed, or the cylinders are seized in some way. I don't think that the Shockwave kits address the piston seal, just the end seals. But it still seems to me that with the relief valve open, the pistons should move smooth and free.
 

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There are two relevant adjustment points involved: 1) at the lower end of the two cables, and 2) where the two "tongues" attach to the tubular frame. If the issue is truly that your rams won't retract far enough to release tension on the cables, try slackening both adjustments fully on both sides. You should mark the tongues and count the number of turns you adjust the cables so you can restore them to their previous settings if needed.

I would also disconnect the yokes, set the cylinders aside so they can't interfere, and make sure the boot lid mechanism works smoothly through it's full range of motion.

If none of that helps, consider a rebuild of both cylinders.

I did have an issue with one of these cylinders that was binding and not moving the same as the other. Not exactly your scenario, but close.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
When the cylinders are retracted to the max by hydraulic pressure, then the bottom of the cylinder should draw up so the bottom mounting pin should be at the bottom of the slot. This allows the cable to be slack so the trunk lid will latch. This only happens when I clamp it. I suspect the cylinders are binding.

My immediate concern is that the rear quarter windows don't go up. I figured that once I got the trunk lid latched and all the switches set right, then the window would go back up, but they didn't. We have had rain here and I have to use duct tape on them to keep water from coming in.

Is there any way to work around the system and jumper to the window motors and manually close them?
 

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I'm guessing this roof hasn't been operated in some time - you have multiple issues.

It sounds like you've got a good handle on the mechanical issue (which obviously you will need to fix), and now you have the roof closed, the boot lid closed, and the two lid latches engaged; you just want to raise the rear windows but when you press the red switch forward you're seeing a blinking red light. If this is right, the CCM thinks either 1) the boot is open "in grocery mode" or 2) the partition is not extended. By "grocery mode" I mean the boot is open in the traditional manner, as when you're putting groceries in. The CCM thinks this based on two other switches (distinct from the two you've been poking at already).

If you have the plastic linings out, your partition switch is probably laying on the floor of the trunk. You can attach a jumper wire across the two poles of the switch to simulate "extended".

The switch that detects "grocery mode closed" is wired through a loom that flexes whenever you put groceries in - this wiring is a frequent culprit due to flexing and breakage.

For a complete switch diagnosis, see my post in the following thread:

http://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-ge...30-roof-doesnt-work-not-sure-where-start.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for the info. The partition switch is indeed laying in the trunk, but is still plugged in and I have it held closed with a rubber band. Where would I find the "grocery mode" trunk lid open switch. Is it in the latch?
 

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S69/12 is in the center rear latch - the part of the latch that moves up and down with the lid. You will find the wiring to it in a sheath that's clearly visible in the hinge area of the lid.

Did you do the full diags, and if so what was the state of each circuit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
A couple of more things.

The only system diagnostics I did were to check each switch while disconnected for continuity when closed. Each switch was open and then closed when I pressed its lever.

I did mention that with all the switches set in the circuits, if I pushed the console switch forward, it would begin to blink. If I pressed it forward twice in rapid succession then the interior light would dim a bit and I could hear a motor groaning in the rear. I will have someone help me later to listen to the pump and see if that is the source of the groan.

A few moments ago, I tried it again. But this time I pulled the console switch backward. It blinked. I pulled it backward in quick succession and the door windows started going down. I pushed forward twice and they went back up. I held it for a few seconds, to see if the quarter windows would go up too, but no dice.

It seems like the system thinks that some previous action is not completed yet so it cannot raise the rear window. What do you think?
 

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I think you're right on "thinks that some previous action is not completed yet".

The next steps for you are to 1) note the exact position of the roof, boot lid, and each of the four windows; and 2) measure the state of each of the seven pins on the MFCU ("grounded" or "not grounded"). Post back here.
 
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