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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited by Moderator)
I have 1998 SLK 200 with 5 speed trans. Starter stoped working had it checked and confirmed it was bad. When ignition is used to start car it makes clicking sound like low battery voltage. The battery is less than 1 year old and has been tested passed all tests. I checked K40 relay and it checks ok. At a loss why starter will not engage and turn over engine. Anyone have suggestions as to what to look at. Considering trying push start to see what happens
 

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It could be a parastic drain on the battery. Check that. If you have a significant drain it could have a major impact on the amps available for starting the car.

It may be prudent to check the terminals and earth on the newly fitted starter motor.


Two simple checks to do and report back.
 

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Registered 2008 SLK280
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Make sure you have connected all the thick high amperage cables that were removed in order to replace the starter........how do I know that this can happen I wonder (on a car that I replaced the starter there were two cables and I inadvertently only reconnected one).
 

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Super Moderator UK SLK 55 AMG 2007
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"checked K40 relay"
9 times out of ten we come back to the K40 after eliminating it initially.

How did you check it?
I ask because you are looking for micro fracture in the solder and these are very hard to spot.

Eliminate the easy items suggested above, then revisit K40
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have checked all your suggestions, cables connected, battery no has draw until key inserted, pulled K40 checked solder joints resoldered those that where questionable. Checked tracks on board for continuity all okay. The starter engages but does not crank engine.. Everything in car operates normally except engine crank. I pulled starter and bench tested okay. Engine is okay will turn when clutch is engaged.
 

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Registered 2012 SLK55 AMG w/P30
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Put a voltmeter on the solenoid circuit at the starter and see if power is reaching the starter when you turn the key.
 

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Registered 2002 SLK320
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I have checked all your suggestions, cables connected, battery no has draw until key inserted, pulled K40 checked solder joints resoldered those that where questionable. Checked tracks on board for continuity all okay. The starter engages but does not crank engine.. Everything in car operates normally except engine crank. I pulled starter and bench tested okay. Engine is okay will turn when clutch is engaged.
If that Starter is truly Engaging but not Cranking, yet it spins up on the bench, then it can only be one of 3 things ...................

1) Dud Starter Motor ................... Happens frequently, especially at the cheaper end of the Rotating Electrics market ;)

2) Bad Main +ve Supply to Solenoid on Starter

3) Bad Engine main -ve Earth Strap

I will not fit anything other than OE or OEM Starters and Alternators nowadays, actually OE Starters on Diesels ................

"Been there done that, got the T shirt, had all the hassle of Warranty jobs etc" :wink:

HTH, Cheers Dave
 

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Take the starter out and hook it directly to a 12 V battery. That'll determine if it's good or bad.

If it works, the problem is likely the poor cable connections on the starter and solenoid. Get out a wire brush and shine up those connections. If all the solenoid does is clicks, the battery is low or the solenoid is shot.

Another problem is the engine is jammed up and won't turn over.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Finally got car started went for a drive:)everything working no strange sounds good acceleration. Returned home turned ignition off now back to where I started. Everything seemed normal but now engine seems to be locked up. What could of caused this. Timing chain?
 

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Registered 2002 SLK320
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Hi,

Easy to check that it's turning OK, put a socket on the Crank Pulley, attempt to turn it CLOCKWISE it should turn easy and you should be able to feel the compression strokes if you keep turning, 2 per revolution.

DO NOT attempt to turn it anti clockwise, chains often jump when guys do that !!

Do not ask me how I know that ........................

Suffice to say I once had to sack a moron Mechanic who hadn't long worked for me as a fitter, he turned a V12 Ferrari Engine the wrong way whilst we were doing a Transmission job on it :crying:

Cost me a shed full of Cash and about a week in time to sort that particular FUBAR out :crying:

IMHO this sounds more like a bad Starter or intermittent electrical fault, why did you change the Starter in the first place ??

HTH, Cheers Dave
 

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I have 1998 SLK 200 with 5 speed trans. Starter stoped working had it checked and confirmed it was bad. When ignition is used to start car it makes clicking sound like low battery voltage. The battery is less than 1 year old and has been tested passed all tests. I checked K40 relay and it checks ok. At a loss why starter will not engage and turn over engine. Anyone have suggestions as to what to look at. Considering trying push start to see what happens

Hi, as unlikely as it seems i would try (borrow) a different battery as I have had 2 vehicles with the same/similar problem, both batteries tested as good by auto electrician/garage turned out to be the battery on both occasions.



Good luck :smile:
 

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I have 1998 SLK 200 with 5 speed trans. Starter stoped working had it checked and confirmed it was bad. When ignition is used to start car it makes clicking sound like low battery voltage. The battery is less than 1 year old and has been tested passed all tests. I checked K40 relay and it checks ok. At a loss why starter will not engage and turn over engine. Anyone have suggestions as to what to look at. Considering trying push start to see what happens
Hi again:wink:
The best/cheapest way to rule out your battery is to get a jump start off another vehicle with its engine running (following the correct procedure of course :grin:) if your engine starts then I would invest in a good battery.

HTH
 

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Super Moderator CA 2012 SLK55 AMG w/P30
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Hi again:wink:
The best/cheapest way to rule out your battery is to get a jump start off another vehicle with its engine running (following the correct procedure of course :grin:) if your engine starts then I would invest in a good battery.

HTH

@Bill Sexton Like we've said so many times, do not jump start your car. Many members have discovered it fries the electronics. Seems ok to do this with other makes but not our SLK's.
 

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@Bill Sexton Like we've said so many times, do not jump start your car. Many members have discovered it fries the electronics. Seems ok to do this with other makes but not our SLK's.
Apologies :|
I do not like giving out duff information, I must admit that I have never read that, I must have been lucky when I jump started mine :surprise:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
New starter because check BAD when bench tested, solenoid did not engage. I have not used a different battery , will try today. I also read some where that when the cam position sensor is bad it will cause the engine to act like it's locked up. I am trying to confirm that statement.
 

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Registered 2005 SLK350
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New starter because check BAD when bench tested, solenoid did not engage. I have not used a different battery , will try today. I also read some where that when the cam position sensor is bad it will cause the engine to act like it's locked up. I am trying to confirm that statement.
A silent killer is oxidation/corrosion inside the battery and starter cables. It is not seen due to the insulator. This type of deterioration is especially found on vehilces of this age. The cables will allow a low amount of current through which makes lights and such function and causes you think everything is correct, but the cables will not flow the current needed to run the starter - which is a big curent hog. New cables (power and ground) would be first on my list in this situation.
 

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Premium Member 2002 SLK320
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New starter because check BAD when bench tested, solenoid did not engage. I have not used a different battery , will try today. I also read some where that when the cam position sensor is bad it will cause the engine to act like it's locked up. I am trying to confirm that statement.

From posts I read I seem to remember (oh dear...memory:|), that the cam position sensor has the same symptoms as the crank position sensor (which I have experience with) in that the engine will crank but just wontt start.


Have you seen this:
https://www.slkworld.com/new-members-introduce-yourself-here/138769-tips-searching.html
 

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Registered 2001 SLK320
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878 Posts
Apologies :|
I do not like giving out duff information, I must admit that I have never read that, I must have been lucky when I jump started mine :surprise:

Let me stir the pot on the subject of jump starting. That funny book called "SLK Operator's Manual" that comes with the car devotes pages 212 and 213 to the subject of proper procedure for jump starting these cars.
The key words are proper procedure.

This is pretty common for most of the cars I have owned prior to the 2014 R172 I had which I don't recall because I never ran into a bad battery but my W124 and W211 E classes had instructions. The W211 actually had a pin under the hood because the battery was buried in the trunk.
Be careful and read before trying to jump start and you should be ok.
 

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Registered 2001 SLK320
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New starter because check BAD when bench tested, solenoid did not engage. I have not used a different battery , will try today. I also read some where that when the cam position sensor is bad it will cause the engine to act like it's locked up. I am trying to confirm that statement.

Have to disagree. The CPS is a passive device i.e. no mechanical parts to interface. When they fail they generally fail open so while the engine will crank on the starter the computer has no idea where the crank is so it cannot figure out which cylinder to deliver spark and fuel to so it does nothing but the engine does not lock up. If your engine is locked I think some of the suggestions of others will be more worthwhile focusing on,
 
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