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Did they log boost at the dyno? What tune are you running?



Although it was probably disappointing for you, 395/400 is probably fairly close to what most s/c SLK55 make, for those who've actually dynoed them on their own. Those who have actually dynoed them are usually disappointed because Kleemann (and probably Renntech) claim much higher bhp numbers than would result from the whp. Kleemann even claims much higher dynoed numbers.



Did the Renntech kit come with filters? The lean run would be a nice gain if it could be kept - how much of that do you think would be lost with a richer tune?
 

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Discussion Starter #42 (Edited)
Did they log boost at the dyno? What tune are you running?


Although it was probably disappointing for you, 395/400 is probably fairly close to what most s/c SLK55 make, for those who've actually dynoed them on their own. Those who have actually dynoed them are usually disappointed because Kleemann (and probably Renntech) claim much higher bhp numbers than would result from the whp. Kleemann even claims much higher dynoed numbers.

Did the Renntech kit come with filters? The lean run would be a nice gain if it could be kept - how much of that do you think would be lost with a richer tune?
I was hoping for 400/400, so I'm not all that disappointed at all. With everything that's left on the table due to the AF and high RPM breakup, it should make a good bit more once fine tuned.

As for the filters, I bought the kit used and filters weren't included. We didn't log boost and he thinks the car will likely make more power when we add fuel and a little timing down low. He doesn't agree that we'll necessarily see a decrease in power with a richer AF down low, since each car is different. However, if the car makes power that lean, then it can take another a degree or two in timing once it's fattened up a bit. Time will tell.

I decided to just order a used E55 intake to bump up the air flow. I'll report back once it's debaffled with new filters and installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
For those looking for more boost the guys running C55's seem to have been doing that for a decade. Might want to do some searching over there for more info or PM one of them. Here's just one thread I found interesting on the subject. I've been researching BlackBenzz since I recall him really pushing the limits of the M113 a few years ago. https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c55-amg-w203/332953-anybody-run-65mm-sc-pulley-kleemann-blower.html


And check out this one: https://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c55-amg-w203/526349-new-supercharged-c55-forum-3.html
 

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Discussion Starter #44 (Edited)
I ordered an E55 intake today which should be here in a week or so. However, I had some free time today so I embarked on modding the SLK intake. I removed the metal screen on the MAF and intake box, and I also removed the carbon filters and baffling. If they use the same filters I plan to order a good set of replacements and run them both on the next dyno. If they run different filters I'll likely run both with OEM filters and see which one does better on the dyno. The better performing intake will get installed with upgraded filters.

By the way, those are my dog's chew toys on the floor. :)













 

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I can see how removing the metal screen can help airflow (although potentially allowing foreign objects into the intake), but how does removing the baffling help?

Has an E55 intake been shown to flow / dyno better, or are you testing out the theory? I saw a couple of people with butt dyno thoughts, but those are often psychosomatic and/or people flooring it more than they normally do.

I wondered about ease of fit, but later saw that it snaps on with only a minor modification of adding electrical tape to make up for a very slight diameter difference: https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class-w209/301884-e55-kompressor-airbox-installed-clk-500-a.html
 

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I have had an issue pop up on my car, it is reading 13-15psi under load at 5-6psi at idle (according to OBDII) and I am getting a P0102 Mass Airflow Sensor reading low error. I bought Carly and ran all of the diagnostics and I don't get any error. I tried swapping out the MAP sensor and the reading is still the same.
@UltSLK55 Have you looked at your readings before via OBDII? I am curious if my MAP sensor calibration is somehow off or what is going on (this just popped up last week). The car stumbles pretty bad around 1/3 throttle, I am pretty positive it is running rich. It will also surge at idle when cold.
 

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Discussion Starter #47 (Edited)
I can see how removing the metal screen can help airflow (although potentially allowing foreign objects into the intake), but how does removing the baffling help?

Has an E55 intake been shown to flow / dyno better, or are you testing out the theory? I saw a couple of people with butt dyno thoughts, but those are often psychosomatic and/or people flooring it more than they normally do.

I wondered about ease of fit, but later saw that it snaps on with only a minor modification of adding electrical tape to make up for a very slight diameter difference: https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class-w209/301884-e55-kompressor-airbox-installed-clk-500-a.html


I modified my stock intake based on the R171 black series design. There's a post on here with more details, but basically I removed the unnecessary stuff MB eliminated. Here it is: https://www.slkworld.com/performance-mods-r171/158065-modifying-stock-airbox-discussion.html

There's a guy that modifies the stock airbox height as well to more closely replicate the BS version and even more flow than the E55 setup. Here's a link if you're interested. https://mbworld.org/forums/clk-class-w209/628936-custom-air-box-clk500.html#post6833940



Here's another interesting link about the Renntech intake, which is very similar to the BS design.: https://mbworld.org/forums/clk55-amg-clk63-amg-w208-w209/426723-renntech-cf-airbox-installed-review.html

I think the E55 intake and my modified OEM intake probably flow around the same. However, if the back of my OEM air box was raised an inch I believe it would then outflow the E55 based on what I've read.

By the way, I thought your Kleemann SC kit came with the 113k intake.
 

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By the way, I thought your Kleemann SC kit came with the 113k intake.
Correct, my car does not have the stock intake on it.

After looking at my logs more I noticed that higher boost reading is absolute and the other one is relative and they do correlate. So my ECU thinks I am seeing -.2psi max, or just under ambient. Kleemann uses a variable resistor to knock the MAF reading down to acceptable limits for the ECU. If I go to a smaller pulley, then I will have to rescale and remap unfortunately instead of just a small tweak.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
Well, discovered my tuner didn't account for the extra airflow with the MAF, so that explains why the car was acting so erratic at times. When I would lift off the throttle during WOT the tires would squeal momentarily and it felt like I just deployed a parachute. Sort of like a Jake-break on a simi I'd guess. Also the tranny shifts were a little harsh at times.



Anyway, I installed a 300 OHM resistor on the signal wire tonight from the MAF and it made a huge difference in driveability and even leaned out the LTFT's from -30 to -20. I guess desensitizing the MAF meant only a portion of the air entering the MAF is now being accounted for, so the ECU decreased the fuel injector duty cycle, decreasing fuel trims. Make sense?



I then installed a 470 OHM resistor to drop the voltage a little more due to running more boost than the standard setup, and it still seemed to react fine. The LTFT's dropped from -20 to -16, which is way closer than I started.



The car seems to be running a smooth as stock now, but I need to get an adjustable fuel regulator hooked up at some point to be safe at the top of 3rd and 4th under load. I'm running larger injectors, but I think I'm going to need more fuel pressure up top to play it safe.
 

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Discussion Starter #50
I sent the car back to the shop to correct some AF issues (vacuum leak on the bypass valve) and looks like it's it's ready to go now. All the shifting issues are gone and the AF is consistent and predictable. While the shop had the car they strapped it to the dyno for some new numbers.

Just an FYI, the car dyno'd around 400whp / 400wtq a few months back with the stock airbox. I removed the airbox at the dyno and the numbers jumped up to 410whp / 439wtq, indicating to me the airbox was a restriction. Now that the airbox is gutted and installed it dyno'd 415whp / 450wtq.

Hopefully I'll be able to get it back to the track for some better ET's.





 
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